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Thread: Remounting in the same holes.
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01-05-2007, 04:32 PM #1
Remounting in the same holes.
Never done it, is it OK?
I want to mount up my fat bros tonight, but might need to replace the bindings I currently have with others that have the same hole pattern. Should I just wait, or is this no problem?
What about glue? Is it easy to get the screw out if I just use water resistant carpenter's glue?
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01-05-2007, 04:47 PM #2
I've done it a lot. It's a good idea to use a soldering iron or something to heat up the screw and loosen the glue, but I've often done it without. Reglue with wood glue or whatever, let set for a day at room temp and you're golden.
There's nothing better than sliding down snow, and flying through the air
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01-05-2007, 04:51 PM #3Hucked to flat once
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01-05-2007, 05:13 PM #4
C: Where do you usually mount for tele? The balance point marked on my wife's teledaddies seems awfully far back if I use that for a pinline. And if I use the bootcenter mark, it is like an inch forward of the above scenario. Thoughts?
Also, the marks are off by almost 3/8" from one ski to the next.
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01-05-2007, 05:23 PM #5
Not a problem usually to remount in old holes, but I'd avoid unnecessarily removing/reinstalling screws if possible. If you can wait, and mount the bindings you really plan to use just one time, that would be best.
I'll remount bindings in old holes rather than drill a new set of holes just to get fresh holes. Definitely use glue.
If the old holes are sloppy, use epoxy. If the old holes are suspect (really sloppy), use bits of fiberglass (house insulation) stuffed into the holes on top of the epoxy. Fiberglass + epoxy = those bindings are SOLID.
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01-05-2007, 08:29 PM #6
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01-05-2007, 08:58 PM #7
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01-05-2007, 09:53 PM #8
I read about it here and/or on TTips. Sound theory... use either sawdust or fiberglass strands to reinforce the epoxy, since the inside of most skis is made out of: wood, fiberglass, and epoxy resin.
Works for me. Though I haven't yet tried to remove any of the binding screws I've mounted with epoxy.
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01-05-2007, 10:24 PM #9
Well, I just did the deed. The formerly epoxied screws came out easy...of course, I was using an impact driver.
I did have to clean the threads on some of the screws, but the epoxy came off pretty easy, but it was shitty 5 minute epoxy. I can't really see why you'd need anything more for a virgin mount.
I mounted the fat 179 Bros on the factory hand drawn line on boot center..for tele.
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01-05-2007, 10:42 PM #10
i've used steel wool instead of fiberglass as reinforecement. It is probably unecessary if you have metal in the topsheet.
Originally Posted by blurred
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01-05-2007, 10:53 PM #11
the fiberglass insulation is pretty interesting.
seems like you could do the same with some tows of carbon ifyou can get ahold of some scrap.
steel wool, glass, pubic hairs, itll be solid with any of them.
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01-05-2007, 11:44 PM #12Hucked to flat once
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Sounds like I'm late to the party but I mount alpine skis to tele through magic and beer. I measure cord center and mark it, mark balance point, and mark recommended mid sole the SAME on both skis. I then sit back and decide on what I want the skis to be for ie bc, hard snow, etc and pick somewhere in between all the marks. I just make sure it's the same on both skis.
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01-06-2007, 08:09 PM #13
I do it all the time. No problem.
Click. Point. Chute.
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01-07-2007, 08:17 AM #14
i have used the steel wool method to fix shit at work many times...
works a treati went all the way to st anton and all i got was this lousy signature
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12-22-2020, 08:06 PM #15
bringing this one back to life for a new Q.
looking to reuse some holes on some non-metal skis. holes appear to be in good condition though have not yet checked the threads.
gonna use either Roo glue or g-flex (chime in if you think epoxy is necessary - I'm leaning that way).
Question:
what's the right amount of torque when reusing holes? i have a torque screwdriver so is there a specific setting. or is this more an art (eg. just don't overdo it, dickhead)
any other tips welcome.
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12-22-2020, 08:35 PM #16
Can’t hurt to do it old school by hand.....so u can “feel” it taking the threads...
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12-22-2020, 08:41 PM #17
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12-22-2020, 08:54 PM #18
You are overthinking it. Just carefully get the screw started first. Then hand tight about as tight as you can go.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkBest Skier on the Mountain
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12-22-2020, 08:59 PM #19
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12-22-2020, 09:07 PM #20
It's not rocket surgery. When you're starting the screws, spin them backwards slowly until you feel the screw drop into the threads, so that you know you're cleanly in the old ones instead of trying to cut new ones. Then just go normal hand tight like you would with new holes.
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12-22-2020, 09:09 PM #21
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12-22-2020, 09:26 PM #22Registered User
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Nor brain science..
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12-22-2020, 10:02 PM #23Registered User
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Tighten them screws down til they spin and then back off 1/4 turn
back before I was a has-been I did the FG thing
I would re-mount or even the 1st mount with slow set
In stead I just rebuilt a door latch with that bottle of slow set
oh the humanityLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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12-22-2020, 10:16 PM #24
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12-22-2020, 10:57 PM #25Registered User
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Never done anything but fg and slow set so I have no experiance with heli coil ... i duno
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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