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  1. #1
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    Remounting in the same holes.

    Never done it, is it OK?

    I want to mount up my fat bros tonight, but might need to replace the bindings I currently have with others that have the same hole pattern. Should I just wait, or is this no problem?

    What about glue? Is it easy to get the screw out if I just use water resistant carpenter's glue?

  2. #2
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    I've done it a lot. It's a good idea to use a soldering iron or something to heat up the screw and loosen the glue, but I've often done it without. Reglue with wood glue or whatever, let set for a day at room temp and you're golden.
    There's nothing better than sliding down snow, and flying through the air

  3. #3
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    Do it. I would tighten the new screws by hand, not with a drill. Use glue again too. It should be easy to take the old screws out. If they were epoxied or don't come out, heat the screws up.
    Quote Originally Posted by Benny Profane View Post
    Well, I'm not allowed to delete this post, but, I can say, go fuck yourselves, everybody!

  4. #4
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    C: Where do you usually mount for tele? The balance point marked on my wife's teledaddies seems awfully far back if I use that for a pinline. And if I use the bootcenter mark, it is like an inch forward of the above scenario. Thoughts?


    Also, the marks are off by almost 3/8" from one ski to the next.

  5. #5
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    Not a problem usually to remount in old holes, but I'd avoid unnecessarily removing/reinstalling screws if possible. If you can wait, and mount the bindings you really plan to use just one time, that would be best.

    I'll remount bindings in old holes rather than drill a new set of holes just to get fresh holes. Definitely use glue.

    If the old holes are sloppy, use epoxy. If the old holes are suspect (really sloppy), use bits of fiberglass (house insulation) stuffed into the holes on top of the epoxy. Fiberglass + epoxy = those bindings are SOLID.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  6. #6
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    Damn good idea on the fiberglass/epoxy mix... I'm going to try this with a blown out edge.
    Quote Originally Posted by Alkasquawlik View Post
    So there I was McGoverning down the mountain but I McConkeyed the hell out of a Morrison and landed on my Harrisons. Just then I Skogened off a Tuffelmire but hit my McMurray into a Holmes. As I came to the Burke I Steele Spenced over a Moles and stopped on a Krietler. Then I saw Gaffney, and then two Gaffneys, but they Moseleyed me into a Hall. So I said, "Pep!!" and Saged on out of that Thovex.
    Poetry, on motion.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    C: Where do you usually mount for tele? The balance point marked on my wife's teledaddies seems awfully far back if I use that for a pinline. And if I use the bootcenter mark, it is like an inch forward of the above scenario. Thoughts?


    Also, the marks are off by almost 3/8" from one ski to the next.

    usually about 2 cm forward of chord center for me. measure it out, dont trust topsheet graphics.
    pm if you have questions.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by GapersGoHome View Post
    Damn good idea on the fiberglass/epoxy mix... I'm going to try this with a blown out edge.
    I read about it here and/or on TTips. Sound theory... use either sawdust or fiberglass strands to reinforce the epoxy, since the inside of most skis is made out of: wood, fiberglass, and epoxy resin.

    Works for me. Though I haven't yet tried to remove any of the binding screws I've mounted with epoxy.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  9. #9
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    Well, I just did the deed. The formerly epoxied screws came out easy...of course, I was using an impact driver.

    I did have to clean the threads on some of the screws, but the epoxy came off pretty easy, but it was shitty 5 minute epoxy. I can't really see why you'd need anything more for a virgin mount.

    I mounted the fat 179 Bros on the factory hand drawn line on boot center..for tele.

  10. #10
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    i've used steel wool instead of fiberglass as reinforecement. It is probably unecessary if you have metal in the topsheet.
    Quote Originally Posted by blurred
    skiing is hiking all day so that you can ski on shitty gear for 5 minutes.

  11. #11
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    the fiberglass insulation is pretty interesting.
    seems like you could do the same with some tows of carbon ifyou can get ahold of some scrap.

    steel wool, glass, pubic hairs, itll be solid with any of them.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by RootSkier View Post
    C: Where do you usually mount for tele? The balance point marked on my wife's teledaddies seems awfully far back if I use that for a pinline. And if I use the bootcenter mark, it is like an inch forward of the above scenario. Thoughts?


    Also, the marks are off by almost 3/8" from one ski to the next.
    Sounds like I'm late to the party but I mount alpine skis to tele through magic and beer. I measure cord center and mark it, mark balance point, and mark recommended mid sole the SAME on both skis. I then sit back and decide on what I want the skis to be for ie bc, hard snow, etc and pick somewhere in between all the marks. I just make sure it's the same on both skis.
    Quote Originally Posted by Benny Profane View Post
    Well, I'm not allowed to delete this post, but, I can say, go fuck yourselves, everybody!

  13. #13
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    I do it all the time. No problem.
    Click. Point. Chute.

  14. #14
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    i have used the steel wool method to fix shit at work many times...

    works a treat
    i went all the way to st anton and all i got was this lousy signature

  15. #15
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    bringing this one back to life for a new Q.

    looking to reuse some holes on some non-metal skis. holes appear to be in good condition though have not yet checked the threads.

    gonna use either Roo glue or g-flex (chime in if you think epoxy is necessary - I'm leaning that way).

    Question:
    what's the right amount of torque when reusing holes? i have a torque screwdriver so is there a specific setting. or is this more an art (eg. just don't overdo it, dickhead)

    any other tips welcome.

  16. #16
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    Can’t hurt to do it old school by hand.....so u can “feel” it taking the threads...

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by BC. View Post
    Can’t hurt to do it old school by hand.....so u can “feel” it taking the threads...
    totally. the torque screwdriver is just a hand screwdriver with some innards to set max torque. so either way it will def be by hand.

    probably overthinking it. but would be cool to know if this tool is relevant when reusing holes.

  18. #18
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    You are overthinking it. Just carefully get the screw started first. Then hand tight about as tight as you can go.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    You are overthinking it. Just carefully get the screw started first. Then hand tight about as tight as you can go.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    i resemble that comment.

    thx.

  20. #20
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    It's not rocket surgery. When you're starting the screws, spin them backwards slowly until you feel the screw drop into the threads, so that you know you're cleanly in the old ones instead of trying to cut new ones. Then just go normal hand tight like you would with new holes.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    It's not rocket surgery.
    stealing that

  22. #22
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    Nor brain science..

  23. #23
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    Tighten them screws down til they spin and then back off 1/4 turn

    back before I was a has-been I did the FG thing

    I would re-mount or even the 1st mount with slow set

    In stead I just rebuilt a door latch with that bottle of slow set

    oh the humanity
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    Tighten them screws down til they spin and then back off 1/4 turn

    back before I was a has-been I did the FG thing

    I would re-mount or even the 1st mount with slow set

    In stead I just rebuilt a door latch with that bottle of slow set

    oh the humanity
    slow set it is.

    i got two helicoils on these puppies. g-flex in there too?

  25. #25
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    Never done anything but fg and slow set so I have no experiance with heli coil ... i duno
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

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