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  1. #51
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    Dec 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I'm wondering how " feels loose "feels so that it would need epoxy ?
    https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/I_know_it_when_I_see_it

    (Seriously, it's just that feeling how it you turn it one more 1/4 turn that instead of tightening down it's gonna spin.)
    For those stuck in the Northeast, check out the NE Rando Race Series and my avalanche course. (For other avalanche course providers anywhere, feel free to use any of my "homework" assignments for your own courses too.)

  2. #52
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    Dec 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    well I use epoxy becuz it will rebuild the screw holes and I know it does cuz a day later i can crank screws down hard in a spun hole to which i have added the chopped FG [...]
    Ah, got it -- so the epoxy is kind of being used more like filler, so you're letting it set up first to have something solid to crank into.
    For those stuck in the Northeast, check out the NE Rando Race Series and my avalanche course. (For other avalanche course providers anywhere, feel free to use any of my "homework" assignments for your own courses too.)

  3. #53
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    Mar 2008
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    tighten till it strips and then back it off 1/4 turn was the saying

    i just use epoxy all the time as best practises and i will probably never go thru that whole bottle before its NFG
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  4. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan S. View Post
    Ah, got it -- so the epoxy is kind of being used more like filler, so you're letting it set up first to have something solid to crank into.
    exactly ^^ but actualy the chopped FG strands are the filler the slow set epoxy is what holds the FG and ski all togetehr

    I glop it togetehr in a well wetted out ( less resin is stronger) but not too resin rich wad and cram it in the holes

    i have macgyvered all kinds of thing, a whole lot of computers
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  5. #55
    Join Date
    May 2015
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    Problem: How to reverse turn binding screw to achieve "clunk" when binding base itself is threaded for the screw?

    So, I imagine this is a near universal problem. Or maybe I'm just clueless. But when turning screws backwards to get that "clunk" meaning you're at the start of the threads and can start screwing them in: I can achieve this for 2 or 3 of 4 screws on a given toe assembly or heel assembly. But I can never get the fourth screw. Why? It has to do with the fact that the binding base holding the screws is itself threaded. So the screw threads never sits directly on top of/in contact with the threads in the ski and when it does, the binding plate won't lift/drop ("clunk") because the other screws are holding it firm.

    My unsophisticated brain says I could fix this by removing the screw from the binding base and strip out the threads (carefully) from the binding plastic so the screw can move up & down freely. Any other ideas?

    Sidenote: This "feature" seems like a way mfgs keep the screws in the bindings during shipping at minimal cost, which I get. But it's not good for remounts.

  6. #56
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    Mar 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by ntblanks View Post
    [B] My unsophisticated brain says I could fix this by removing the screw from the binding base and strip out the threads (carefully) from the binding plastic so the screw can move up & down freely.
    yeah do this ^^ I would just gouge a little of the thin plastic with the tail of a file or use a drill bit in yer hand, the shoulder at the very edges of the screw is going to do the holding not the skinny plastic

    I don't remember if the screws come stuck in the binding right out of the box but i recently remounted a Dynafit Vertical toe for a buddy who had ripped it off the ski and lost it on piste, he found it 6 months later with all the screws still in the plastic base plate which was pretty handy,
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    yeah do this ^^ I would just gouge a little of the thin plastic with the tail of a file or use a drill bit in yer hand, the shoulder at the very edges of the screw is going to do the holding not the skinny plastic

    I don't remember if the screws come stuck in the binding right out of the box but i recently remounted a Dynafit Vertical toe for a buddy who had ripped it off the ski and lost it on piste, he found it 6 months later with all the screws still in the plastic base plate which was pretty handy,
    cool. was curious if there was a better solution, but this seems like it.

  8. #58
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    Mar 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I'm wondering how " feels loose "feels so that it would need epoxy ?
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    tighten till it strips and then back it off 1/4 turn was the saying

    i just use epoxy all the time as best practises and i will probably never go thru that whole bottle before its NFG
    Our old saying was, "tighten until it feels like it's just about to strip, then give it 1 more full turn".

  9. #59
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    same result as tighten til it strips and back it off 1/4 turn
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    2,885

    So I took a razor to the volcanoes and whacked them down as close to even to the top sheets as seemed reasonable without fing with the holes and threads. Threads look pretty clean and distinct in there. Iíve got to go to the hardware store and get new glue since mine is now a substance closer to paste.

    Anyone care to comment? Best job evvvaaar or Iím gonna die?


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  11. #61
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    Jul 2005
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    P. S. Lesson learned about trying to use a countersink bit. It was a bad idea IMO. It started to strip the threads quickly. Maybe I used the wrong size but just didnít seem like the right tool.


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  12. #62
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    Dee hubbs mentioned running a countersink bit BACKWARDS as the pro tip

    really its not a job you need a power tool for cuz just rotating a 3/8ths bit
    by hand will put enough chamfer on a NEW screw hole

    I will put a nice neat chmfer on a new hole which will then prevent the volcano
    cuz the Volcano material has been removed,

    but putting a chamfer on a old hole doesn't work as good cuz its all rough so I would
    just cut any extra volcano-ed material off the ski flush however you want to do it,

    IME a razor scraper works well
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  13. #63
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    Mar 2009
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    Aspen, Colorado
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    If you are remounting in holes with prior epoxy in them, I like to redrill the hole, being careful not to drill the threads out. If your screw is a bit longer than the screw used previous, you will bottom out before the binding is tight to the ski surface. You can also strip out the threads trying to get the bottomed out screw in

  14. #64
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    Jul 2005
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    Ima feel real dumb if Iím wrong here but what the hell. I liked the idea of counter screwing into the existing threads until I felt them engage. But the binders Iím mounting are new P18ís. As such the screws are pre- screwed into the plastic base plates. Seems to be common these days and maybe itís done to more easily ship screws already in situ. All that said i canít really unscrew them / counter screw them in order to have them fall into the existing threads.

    So, Iím either going to take my chances and screw them in and hope they catch the threads or miss the threads and maybe need to BF or helicoil them. Anyone make any sense of that?


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  15. #65
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    May 2015
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    inw
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnwriter View Post
    Ima feel real dumb if Iím wrong here but what the hell. I liked the idea of counter screwing into the existing threads until I felt them engage. But the binders Iím mounting are new P18ís. As such the screws are pre- screwed into the plastic base plates. Seems to be common these days and maybe itís done to more easily ship screws already in situ. All that said i canít really unscrew them / counter screw them in order to have them fall into the existing threads.

    So, Iím either going to take my chances and screw them in and hope they catch the threads or miss the threads and maybe need to BF or helicoil them. Anyone make any sense of that?


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    i posted about this on another thread. remove the screws. sand down/strip out the threads in the plastic. check to make sure the screws can move in the holes freely. proceed.

  16. #66
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    Jul 2005
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    Score! Thanks


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  17. #67
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    ^^^ this... but all you need is a bit that's about the same size as the threads of the screw and drill out the base plate.

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    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  18. #68
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    Feb 2010
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    715
    I have just drilled out dynafit holes with no problems.

  19. #69
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    Jan 2011
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    Alta
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    Just got a pair of Swiss cheesed skis for rock boards. Thereís a previous mount that works for me but it is plugged with plastic plugs. Was thinking Iíd just center punch the plugs, use a 3.6 drill bit, drill straight thru the plastic plug and mount them with some quick set. Am I crazy?


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  20. #70
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    Jan 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by altacoup View Post
    Just got a pair of Swiss cheesed skis for rock boards. There’s a previous mount that works for me but it is plugged with plastic plugs. Was thinking I’d just center punch the plugs, use a 3.6 drill bit, drill straight thru the plastic plug and mount them with some quick set. Am I crazy?


    Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums
    I've always pulled the plugs out by drilling a smaller hole part way into them, then threading in a wood screw and pulling them out. Might be overkill, but my worry with drilling a plug at 3.6mm has always been that I'll be a little off center and leave some of the plug in, then effectively have the screw trying to hold into a sliver of plug and pull out.

    Zero evidence on my end to support that hypothesis, so make of it what you will. I'd just rather take a little extra time to do something I know is bomber than have the question in the back of my head as I'm airing off something, you know?

  21. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by altacoup View Post
    Just got a pair of Swiss cheesed skis for rock boards. Thereís a previous mount that works for me but it is plugged with plastic plugs. Was thinking Iíd just center punch the plugs, use a 3.6 drill bit, drill straight thru the plastic plug and mount them with some quick set. Am I crazy?


    Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums
    That's what I've done, never had issues. The drill bit ends up pulling out the plastic plug quickly, and the bit wants to find the hole - never had an issue with the bit trying to cut a new or wider hole.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  22. #72
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    ^^^^
    Thanks. Just needed some internet reinforcement to pull the trigger


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  23. #73
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    I don't even bother punching the plug first. Just drill, freehand, using a ski binding drill bit.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  24. #74
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    Nov 2003
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    Fernie and/or Smithers
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jethro View Post
    If you are remounting in holes with prior epoxy in them, I like to redrill the hole, being careful not to drill the threads out. If your screw is a bit longer than the screw used previous, you will bottom out before the binding is tight to the ski surface. You can also strip out the threads trying to get the bottomed out screw in
    ^truth

  25. #75
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    Oct 2003
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    Driving around the RFV
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    So, as a piece of evidence that re-using holes is a-ok, there was (perhaps they still do it the same way, but I can't say) a shop in Utah that was renowned for the quality of it's tunes, and every single pair of skis that got a full tune there had the bindings removed and remounted, because they felt they got a superior tune versus using a bridge.
    I remember a bottomless freedom...

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