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  1. #26
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    Remounting in the same holes.

    Checking in for collective wisdom. Iíve been reading and following along this thread and a few others.

    I picked up a pair of used skis with pivots taken off. Iím putting a new pair on and plan to use the same holes.

    Seems to me the best course of action is to Dremel off or counter sink the volcanos ive got currently then very gently hand screw in with wood glue trying to feel thread engagement in the existing holes.

    If I really screw the pooch (intended) I should use inserts for a remount. Not the worst outcome since I may want to CAST the front four for toes at some point. For now though I plan on just mounting my own fucking skis so theyíre ready and seeing what happens with this fucked up season.

    Collective thoughts? Pics and it did happen:




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  2. #27
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    Yep remove the volcanos then just screw them in like normal with your adhesive of choice (I personally use marine epoxy, but wood glue is fine).
    If you strip a hole, a helicoil would be the normal fix, but inserts also work if you want to go that route.
    Quote Originally Posted by Norseman View Post
    All ye punterz! Leave thine stupid heavy skis in the past, or at least in the resort category, for the age of lightweight pussy sticks is upon us! Behold! Keep up with the randocommandos on their carbon blades of shortness! Break thine tibias into spiral splinters with pintech extravagance!

  3. #28
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    Feb 2010
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    715
    Did this yesterday.
    Voille ski, no metal. Wood glue and snugged them up pretty tight. Maybe not as much as if it was a first mount, but those are eventually getting inserts.
    One option is to do the above with good epoxy.
    Another option is to crank them down just as though it was a first mount, then deal with spinners appropriately.

  4. #29
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    thanks for the tips. mounted two pair a few days ago and all went well. used roo glue in the end. no spinners. torque screwdriver is indeed overkill.

    skied one pair yesterday and didn't die.

    as a wise man once said, "it ain't rocket surgery".

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    It's not rocket surgery. When you're starting the screws, spin them backwards slowly until you feel the screw drop into the threads, so that you know you're cleanly in the old ones instead of trying to cut new ones. Then just go normal hand tight like you would with new holes.
    ^^^ This is important ^^^

  6. #31
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    I always use slow set for any mount

    using the same holes find the threads as above, use slow set and possibly the FG if it the hole is fucked up

    tighten the screws down medium-ish, after the epoxy has cured the next day you can crank them down hard

    OR since you have made the new threads in the ski you can even take the screws out and slather on a little more epoxy at that point, crank em down hard
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    It's not rocket surgery.
    Or rocket appliances


    Sent from the Utility Muffin Research Kitchen

  8. #33
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    Thanks. What HAB and others said above makes sense.

    Iím always reticent to do anything when it comes to working on my bike, mounting my skis etc. I am always paranoid I will miss a secret critical step then end up having to fix my fuck ups.

    It must stem from failing out of engineering at college.


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  9. #34
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    I hope it's been mentioned but it's worth repeating: NEVER, EVER USE A DRILL TO INSTALL BINDING SCREWS. You always and only do them with a screwdriver. Once the holes are in the ski, PUT THE FUCKING DRILL AWAY!

    Back to your regularly scheduled programming.
    I remember a bottomless freedom...

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by glademaster View Post
    I hope it's been mentioned but it's worth repeating: NEVER, EVER USE A DRILL TO INSTALL BINDING SCREWS. You always and only do them with a screwdriver. Once the holes are in the ski, PUT THE FUCKING DRILL AWAY!

    Back to your regularly scheduled programming.
    That's not very Max Power of you

  11. #36
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    Dec 2004
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    Just say No to any water-based glue!
    For (far too many) years I used woodworking glue, since ski binding glue is similar, and ski companies must know what's best, right?
    Then I finally listened to the TGR posters, especially the formulation of, "Wonder who put in the water that made your binding screws all rusty? You did. With your water-based glue."

    Sure enough, since switching to this:
    https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Hous...dp/B07X57XTD3/
    ... and sometimes instead using this when I really need max retention:
    https://www.amazon.com/WEST-SYSTEM-f...dp/B002IZFPQE/
    ... I have never have a binding screw be removed with any rust.

    As for remounting, getting rid of the volcanoes, I just use this:
    https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-21-11...dp/B00002X1ZH/
    ... and if it's a ski that lacks an internal binding retention plate, then I'll use the epoxy instead of regular glue.
    And also stand by with the helicoil kit, since with enough binding screw installations, removals, and re-installations, eventually the hole threads are going to strip.
    For those stuck in the Northeast, check out the NE Rando Race Series and my avalanche course. (For other avalanche course providers anywhere, feel free to use any of my "homework" assignments for your own courses too.)

  12. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    [...] tighten the screws down medium-ish, after the epoxy has cured the next day you can crank them down hard [...]
    Isn't that defeating the purpose of using epoxy, since the sequence of breaking the seal of the cured epoxy?
    For those stuck in the Northeast, check out the NE Rando Race Series and my avalanche course. (For other avalanche course providers anywhere, feel free to use any of my "homework" assignments for your own courses too.)

  13. #38
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    well I use epoxy becuz it will rebuild the screw holes and I know it does cuz a day later i can crank screws down hard in a spun hole to which i have added the chopped FG

    the thing is I can only tighten a spinner down so far before it spins which is also not really tight enough SO I tighten a screw down until its about to spin let it cure and crank it down hard the next day

    if I was really worried about breaking the seal i could just take the screws out to add more slowset and crank em down hard at that point

    I have been doing this for about 20 years and so far 100% sucess, i got nothing against helicoils never tried it, i don't have one, don't wana pay some stoner to do a helicoil at a shop when i can get stoned and do it myself with slow set & FG

    when i have to fix something i look at what I got laying around which is how I discovered BBQ sqewers in the cutlery drawer and cut them up to fill binding holes
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  14. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    You are overthinking it. Just carefully get the screw started first. Then hand tight about as tight as you can go.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I'm going to question this a bit.

    If the threads are already cut and you put glue in the hole like you should (acts as lube), the screw should go into the hole very easily, PROVIDING you didn't cross thread.

    Make sure your going into the old threads and then it should only take fairly light torque and you'll feel the screw stop at the bottom. Confirm you did it correctly if the binding is flush with the ski.

    This is NOT the same force required to cut new threads in a new mount. If you go to hard you are likely to get a spinner.

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  15. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by glademaster View Post
    I hope it's been mentioned but it's worth repeating: NEVER, EVER USE A DRILL TO INSTALL BINDING SCREWS. You always and only do them with a screwdriver. Once the holes are in the ski, PUT THE FUCKING DRILL AWAY!
    I have done dozens of mounts and I prefer to start all the screws with a cordless drill and the torque limiter set low. Its just so much faster than doing them by hand. I always do the final tightening by hand. Certainly there's nothing wrong with doing it the whole way by hand, but if you know what you're doing you can use a drill very successfully. I've never stripped a hole or had a spinner in the last ~20 years.

  16. #41
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    Re: Mtnwriter,

    I would avoid the dremel. You honestly probably don't even need to remove the volcanoes but lots of people feel good by doing it. Alpine bindings are so accommodating I'm not sure it matters (tech bindings are more sensitive). The volcanoes can be effectively removed with:
    -razor blade - this works better on some topsheets than others. Praxis topsheets are so durable I don't use it much on them.
    -counter sink - kiss the holes with an 82deg or 90deg countersink on a drill is the fastest and easiest way
    -panzer or other file - this works well, it's how I shave down plugs in old holes and it removes any volcanoes at the same time.

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by skis_the_trees View Post
    I have done dozens of mounts and I prefer to start all the screws with a cordless drill and the torque limiter set low. Its just so much faster than doing them by hand. I always do the final tightening by hand. Certainly there's nothing wrong with doing it the whole way by hand, but if you know what you're doing you can use a drill very successfully. I've never stripped a hole or had a spinner in the last ~20 years.
    its not net faster when fixing the fuckups is taken into account, some of these people are fucking dentists and they should not be allowed to use power tools for any part of mounting a ski binding

    but upon 2nd thot what you can't tell using a drill is how much resistance the screw has going into the hole which might make the difference between stopping before a screw spins or not
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  18. #43
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    Or drilling teeth. That needs to be done all by hand.


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  19. #44
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    well obviously the inference would be they know how to drill teeth

    skis not so much

    the dentist thing is a running joke
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnwriter View Post
    Or drilling teeth. That needs to be done all by hand.


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    .

  21. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    but upon 2nd thot what you can't tell using a drill is how much resistance the screw has going into the hole which might make the difference between stopping before a screw spins or not
    This is why you never use a drill to install binding screws. By hand only.

    A drill is "so much faster?" How many pairs of skis are you mounting? If you're that pinched for time, you probably have the money to not worry about mounting you own boards.
    I remember a bottomless freedom...

  22. #47
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    Set the clutch at 13, no spinners
    crab in my shoe mouth

  23. #48
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    I use a drill with a clutch to start the screws, speed set to low and clutch low... but I don't even go all the way until the clutch engages.

    I do it mostly because I feel like it's easier to start the screws more vertically with constant force held in one direction.

    I've had spinners but never from using a drill.

    Sent from my SM-A505W using Tapatalk
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtnwriter View Post
    Checking in for collective wisdom. I’ve been reading and following along this thread and a few others.

    I picked up a pair of used skis with pivots taken off. I’m putting a new pair on and plan to use the same holes.

    Seems to me the best course of action is to Dremel off or counter sink the volcanos ive got currently then very gently hand screw in with wood glue trying to feel thread engagement in the existing holes.
    I have done this exact thing many times and never had an issue. I usually use a panzer file to shave down the volcanoes (not really even that necessary to get rid of them) and then gently feel the screw into the existing threads by spinning backwards until it sets in like you would do with a cross-threaded machine screw or something similar. Use whatever glue you like for mounting bindings and epoxy if it feels loose.

    The only thing I try to avoid is doing this multiple times in the same set of holes. I have no idea if this is backed by any data or validity but I usually feel that if the bindings have come off once and gone back in they shouldn't do it again in the same holes. I've only made an exception to that once with a pair of dynafits that don't get pushed very hard and they're still going strong, so who knows
    Quote Originally Posted by other grskier View Post
    well, in the three years i've been skiing i bet i can ski most anything those 'pro's' i listed can, probably

  25. #50
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    I'm wondering how " feels loose "feels so that it would need epoxy ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

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