Results 26 to 50 of 141
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11-16-2005, 08:43 AM #26Originally Posted by hucksquawself unemployed?
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11-16-2005, 08:58 AM #27
if someone comes thru, I'll sold out of the plates
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11-16-2005, 11:34 AM #28
I have bombers mounted directly to the ski. You'll need to shave off about 2mm on each side of the heel piece corners to get it to mount flush. I used longer screws and mounted the heel piece in the center of the channel and haven't had any issues. The standard G3 hole pattern puts the screw holes close the curve of the channel, so you are actually drilling into a bit more material. If the pattern were a bit wider, you won't hit as much plastic. I had some linkens on them before and the holes are a bit wider and not quite as solid (striped one).
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11-16-2005, 11:36 AM #29
Oh, and I bought a set of the Vario/Mount anywhere plates from Mntlion and did not end up using them for the tele mount. If the group deal goes through I'll most likely sell the plates.
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11-16-2005, 12:12 PM #30
So kneedropper, saw your posts here and on ttips on the Bishop/Big Daddy mount, but couldn't tell if you were mounting the binding permanently on the BD or were using the 2nd ski kit (though I think they may actually be pretty much the same, in which case it doesn't make any difference). Also, you tore off the stock Atomic mount plate, right? And did you go pins on CC or something else?
Thanks.
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11-16-2005, 01:37 PM #31
I took the Atomic plate off and drilled direclty into the ski. I'm using the second ski kit for the mount, which allows you to punch 8 holes per ski for the front of the binding. I actually played around with the mounting point quite a bit and am not completely sure where I ended up, but the first go around left me with way too much in the tail in the soft snow (mounted too far forward). I could measure a pinline for you, but wouldn't have access to the boards until after the weekend.
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11-16-2005, 02:00 PM #32
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11-16-2005, 03:09 PM #33Registered User
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after mounting a binding straight to the ski do you plug up the groove that would create a space under the binding? does it matter?
Mom! The meatloaf! FUCK!.
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11-17-2005, 01:36 AM #34Originally Posted by hucksquawself unemployed?
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11-21-2005, 09:04 PM #35
does anyone have pictures of any of this stuff? my bd's arrived today, and i'm giddy and also a bit confused. they are so friggen hot and sexy. many of the descriptions i've read in the various threads are beginning to make much more sense. as i narrow in on a decision towards a certain course of action as far as the binding situation (buying mount anything plates, mounting directly into the ski, etc...) i think seeing visual evidence would be super helpful. before i go and do anything more stupid than i already have, i'd like to see how things might turn out if i choose one route vs. the other. (yes, i'm being a wimp)
anybody got a few moments to snap a digi pic or three and help out the multitude of folks who will be facing this grand bd w/plate conundrum? thanks in advance.
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11-21-2005, 09:11 PM #36
I second and third the above plea for Smoke and myself. We got ours today as well. They look cool just the way they are and everything, but we'll prolly have to deface them with drill holes some time or other.
While we're waiting for some help and advice on binding advice, one thing I learned from my Sugars...I really hated them and almost sold them until by accident I slid the 3-position binding all the way to the front and found the control I had been missing. Now I love 'em. Has anyone had a similar experience with the BD's? In other words, is it common to have to move the binding forward a bit?Last edited by Endlessseason; 11-21-2005 at 10:54 PM.
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11-22-2005, 01:01 AM #37Registered User
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Originally Posted by acostiga
bueller? bueller?Mom! The meatloaf! FUCK!.
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11-22-2005, 06:11 AM #38Originally Posted by Endlessseasonself unemployed?
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11-22-2005, 07:35 AM #39
by the way, if anyone is interested, I think I will have two pair of the 6.14s that are supposed to be mounted on the Atomic plate, for quite cheap. One pair for almost sure. Good binding, the downside I seem to recall is that they're quite heavy. But I think I'll have a new pair for $125 + shipping, and possibly a used pair for $100 + shipping, although I haven't yet been able to pick up my BDs from the USPS so I don't know if I want to use one of those pairs myself. But keep it mind, I snagged the new pair off of eBay recently just to preserve them for someone here. I'll let y'all know in a few weeks.
Thrutchworthy Production Services
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11-22-2005, 07:51 AM #40
fwiw since cupolo's name is dirt, they do have $60 atomic binders that go from 6-14, but i think they're skinny brakes.
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11-22-2005, 08:00 AM #41Originally Posted by ulty_guyself unemployed?
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11-22-2005, 10:17 AM #42
i'm wondering about the mount anything plates option. do these plates screw into the skis the same way that the hostage plates are connected? do the binding screws only go into this plate, and not into the ski itself? i think i need a bit more of a description before i buy more fully into the mount anything plate route. when i went into one local shop yesterday, the man in charge told me that he had to haggle with the atomic rep for almost two years to get ahold of one of the bottom sections of the necessary atomic binding assembly that's involved with the hostage situation. he's got a bunch of skis that he can't sell because the required binding section/brake assembly is evidently in short supply. he offered to sell me the piece i needed for only $459, and would throw in a pair of sugars for free! i told him that i'd find out more about the mount anything plates, and get back to him. if i could get pictures/specs and whatever on these plates, maybe i'd be more willing to order them and could convince this guy to buy a few for his shop.
if i mounted something directly to the ski, could i then at a later point in time put a mount anything plate onto the ski without ruining christmas? would somthing mounted directly into the ski need any sort of riser or whatever for clearance over those beta channel ridges? at at local shop yesterday, the techs were kind of giddy about my new toys and found some solly brakes that were wide enough to fit around bd's. i've got an older pair of 997's that seem to be narrow enough to fit into the beta channel- and a few shop techs that are excited to play with my new toy. hmm...
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11-22-2005, 11:14 AM #43Originally Posted by acostiga
Originally Posted by acostiga
Originally Posted by acostigaself unemployed?
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11-22-2005, 08:37 PM #44Registered User
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Haven't had a problem with my R8's-directly-to-the-ski mount.
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11-23-2005, 09:13 AM #45Originally Posted by acostigado the binding screws only go into this plate, and not into the ski itself?
if i mounted something directly to the ski, could i then at a later point in time put a mount anything plate onto the ski without ruining christmas?would somthing mounted directly into the ski need any sort of riser or whatever for clearance over those beta channel ridges?"It is not the result that counts! It is not the result but the spirit! Not what - but how. Not what has been attained - but at what price.
- A. Solzhenitsyn
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11-23-2005, 04:43 PM #46
Hey A-
Here are a couple of pics of my plate from Andy:
"It is not the result that counts! It is not the result but the spirit! Not what - but how. Not what has been attained - but at what price.
- A. Solzhenitsyn
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11-23-2005, 04:45 PM #47
what kind of goofball setup is that - how do you lock down the heels?
that little metal loop go around the heel - doesn't look secure...
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11-23-2005, 04:53 PM #48
yeah, the bindings definitely need work but the plate is bomber!
"It is not the result that counts! It is not the result but the spirit! Not what - but how. Not what has been attained - but at what price.
- A. Solzhenitsyn
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11-23-2005, 05:00 PM #49
the powder sticker fit in between the beta is nice...
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11-23-2005, 05:30 PM #50
Tri:
I also have bombers mounted on to the BD's. The one thing you need to look out for is if you plan on using the climbing wire for touring (maybe you have another set up for BC). The wire hits the inside edge of the plate channel in the down position.
EDIT: Oh yeah, I had to file the sides of the front aluminum plate so that it matched the radius curvature between the channel wall and the surface of the ski where the binding will be seated. It was not too much and will not affect the performance, the binding just sits flush to the surface of the ski now.
I made a set of mini shims made from glued layers of lexan: 3 mm of stack height was enough all around.
For the front I made a mini plate that goes between the binding and the 2nd ski plate that was mounted directly to the ski surface.
The back was a little more annoying. You ahve to shavbe a bit of the flares as knee dropper mentioned - his advice was great for me doing this. I glued a plate to teh bottow of the front of the heel module. Careful not to interfere with eh channel where the metal rail slides. I also glued a pair of shim bits to the back end of the heel module. I then dremelled it all down to be flush. I put a stainless washer and spring washer between the metal rail where the tightener cap bolt is and the now raised up module. I will see if I can borrow a digi cam to show. Ity now works well in my living room. This weekend will be the test.
Of course all of this is a moot point if you don't plan on useing hte climbing wire.
On another note, I mounted the rear rail with 4 screws so that it doesn't come loose.Recently overheard: "Hey Ralph, what were you drinking that time that you set your face on fire?"
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