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  1. #1126
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,060
    up here the sthil dealer sells them with .325 and recommend the 20" bar, a different bar and chain will be close to 100$ which seems like a waste of $$$ if you don't have to IMO

    but i would buy a second 20" chain cuz you will use it one of these days so its good to have the spare in case it breaks or whatever-the-fuck also I don't file chains out on the cut block I just swap the chain for one I have sharpend on the jig at home and i'm back in bidness real quick with a super sharp chain.

    I also bought a second air filter so I can just swap for a clean one that is already washed & dried

    edit: or just get a 16" bar and chain instead of the 20" to begin with but IME the 261 has enough power to pull a 20" chain
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  2. #1127
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,997
    congrats on the new saw! did you get the ms261 with the auto adjusting carb (m-tronic)? they are pretty great and interesting to run. if you're going to change chains sizes, make sure your bar and sprocket are compatible with the new chain.

    the concept about modifying the muffler led me down a rabbit hole a few days ago while on the crapper, and i may do it on my ms241c-m. when i modded the muffler on my ms361, there were some very clear and concise calculated descriptions in the arboristsite.com forum about the effective maximum changes (hole size) and best places to put the hole. there was even a description about installation of a new spark arrester. this info gave me some confidence that i wasn't gonna have a problem or fuck things up or waste my time/money.

  3. #1128
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    2 hours from anything
    Posts
    10,761
    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    congrats on the new saw! did you get the ms261 with the auto adjusting carb (m-tronic)? they are pretty great and interesting to run. if you're going to change chains sizes, make sure your bar and sprocket are compatible with the new chain.

    the concept about modifying the muffler led me down a rabbit hole a few days ago while on the crapper, and i may do it on my ms241c-m. when i modded the muffler on my ms361, there were some very clear and concise calculated descriptions in the arboristsite.com forum about the effective maximum changes (hole size) and best places to put the hole. there was even a description about installation of a new spark arrester. this info gave me some confidence that i wasn't gonna have a problem or fuck things up or waste my time/money.
    No I went with the standard 261. It’s something I plan on having for a long time and I don’t plan on using it at elevation, etc. Additionally my dad is my free small engine repair guy but he isn’t going to touch it with M-tronic. Kinda wish I did get the CM model though.

    My thought on the second bar and chain was that I have a lot of srcub oaks that are 4-6” diameter, on steep ground, and a nice narrow little bar and chain would be sweet and lighten it up. But maybe it is too much of a pain in the ass to switch the bar and chain. I do feel like if I got the 16” in addition to the 20, the 16 would get the most use. But I have a bunch of stuff that the 16 would require a double cut but the 20 will get through.

    Guy at the dealer told me to wait until the warranty is up then modify the exhaust.

  4. #1129
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,997
    i understand the wanting for the shorter bar. a friend has a top handle little saw for an unknown reason (he's not an climber) with a 12" bar, and it's super useful in brushy stuff. the 16" bar on my saw also makes it really easy to buck 16" rounds for my stove. all said, i'm sure you'll get by fine with the 20" bar. happy cutting!

  5. #1130
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    PNW
    Posts
    766
    I'd just get a second saw with a smaller bar. Maybe go with an electric saw for delicate work.

  6. #1131
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,060
    Quote Originally Posted by neufox47 View Post

    My thought on the second bar and chain was that I have a lot of srcub oaks that are 4-6” diameter, on steep ground, and a nice narrow little bar and chain would be sweet and lighten it up. But maybe it is too much of a pain in the ass to switch the bar and chain. I do feel like if I got the 16” in addition to the 20, the 16 would get the most use. But I have a bunch of stuff that the 16 would require a double cut but the 20 will get through. .
    sounds like you need a caddy to carry all that shit and pick the right saw/chain/bar

    " yes Manuel I'm thinking the 261 will be fine for this next stand ? "

    " no senior go with the 241 ! "
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  7. #1132
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    2 hours from anything
    Posts
    10,761

    The chainsaw thread...

    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    sounds like you need a caddy to carry all that shit and pick the right saw/chain/bar

    " yes Manuel I'm thinking the 261 will be fine for this next stand ? "

    " no senior go with the 241 ! "
    Hah, changes probably wouldn’t be too frequent. But hey, a quiver is always better right?

  8. #1133
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
    Posts
    9,163
    I've got an 18" on my 261. Seemed like a good compromise.

  9. #1134
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    cow hampshire
    Posts
    8,385
    I'm a noob with saws. This was wedged on the right side. I cut beyond the tree wedge first and maybe should have cut before it. Then I cut the left side. I cut under then a wedge cut on top so I hopefully wouldn't get the bar stuck. It kind of worked. Maybe there is a better way?

  10. #1135
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,060
    a bar pinch happens when you are cutting on the compression side of a limb/tree

    so you cut on the tension side

    but when it lets go other shit can happen

    so you need to learn to manage tension and/or compression

    Lots of info on youtube, you might wana learn some stuff cuz this shit can kill ya
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  11. #1136
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    549
    C'mon, fellas, get some real bar length.....

    That's a 660 sporting a 42" bar, a 13 hp woods ported 3120 paired with a 60", and a venerable 2100 mated to a 72"er.... tree was a 10.5' giant sequoia, 158 ft tall, 98 yrs old. It housed maybe 3% as much wood as the General Sherman.....

    That butt log averaged maybe 2' in length. The 90 ton crane's load cell said it weighed about 6500 lb..... In the spring redwood can weigh close to 70 lb per cubic foot, meaning is heavier than most US woods, save live oak!!


    https://flic.kr/p/M6mZKxClick image for larger version. 

Name:	Sequoia 29596733553_02d246e805_o.jpg 
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ID:	287134

  12. #1137
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Shuswap Highlands
    Posts
    4,356
    Quote Originally Posted by rbtree View Post
    C'mon, fellas, get some real bar length.....

    That's a 660 sporting a 42" bar, a 13 hp woods ported 3120 paired with a 60", and a venerable 2100 mated to a 72"er.... tree was a 10.5' giant sequoia, 158 ft tall, 98 yrs old. It housed maybe 3% as much wood as the General Sherman.....

    That butt log averaged maybe 2' in length. The 90 ton crane's load cell said it weighed about 6500 lb..... In the spring redwood can weigh close to 70 lb per cubic foot, meaning is heavier than most US woods, save live oak!!


    https://flic.kr/p/M6mZKxClick image for larger version. 

Name:	Sequoia 29596733553_02d246e805_o.jpg 
Views:	81 
Size:	943.9 KB 
ID:	287134
    Less than a century to reach that volume, my heart cries! The extra cuts below the stump on both sides, would love to hear your strategy on the felling with that.
    Great wood!

  13. #1138
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Pagosa Springs CO
    Posts
    1,002
    Quote Originally Posted by rbtree View Post
    C'mon, fellas, get some real bar length.....

    That's a 660 sporting a 42" bar, a 13 hp woods ported 3120 paired with a 60", and a venerable 2100 mated to a 72"er.... tree was a 10.5' giant sequoia, 158 ft tall, 98 yrs old. It housed maybe 3% as much wood as the General Sherman.....

    That butt log averaged maybe 2' in length. The 90 ton crane's load cell said it weighed about 6500 lb..... In the spring redwood can weigh close to 70 lb per cubic foot, meaning is heavier than most US woods, save live oak!!


    https://flic.kr/p/M6mZKxClick image for larger version. 

Name:	Sequoia 29596733553_02d246e805_o.jpg 
Views:	81 
Size:	943.9 KB 
ID:	287134
    I've run a 660 with a 32" bar and it was a beast. I can't imagine bars that long.
    Granted, the biggest trees here are 60's dbh.

  14. #1139
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    549
    Another oldie from 2002, the (in) famous Squeeze Play is featured

  15. #1140
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    549
    Quote Originally Posted by Powder Ho View Post
    I've run a 660 with a 32" bar and it was a beast. I can't imagine bars that long.
    Granted, the biggest trees here are 60's dbh.
    Yup. I run 28-32" on my ported Husky 372's and Dolmar 7900's, 36 on the 660, 24 on my awesome woods ported 357, 18" on the ported Husky 550, and normally 14" on my climb saws, both Husky and Stihl.

  16. #1141
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    549
    Quote Originally Posted by BCMtnHound View Post
    Less than a century to reach that volume, my heart cries! The extra cuts below the stump on both sides, would love to hear your strategy on the felling with that.
    Great wood!
    Here's a link to the whole album. You'll see that the cuts were to get the crane slings to stay on... https://flic.kr/s/aHsjqT7iU4

  17. #1142
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Pagosa Springs CO
    Posts
    1,002
    Quote Originally Posted by rbtree View Post
    Here's a link to the whole album. You'll see that the cuts were to get the crane slings to stay on... https://flic.kr/s/aHsjqT7iU4
    Nice work. Every time I think I'm an accomplished sawyer, I see pictures like that and I realize if I f up we're going to have replace a picnic table or fire ring.

  18. #1143
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,060
    Quote Originally Posted by rbtree View Post
    C'mon, fellas, get some real bar length.....]
    I tried but they seem to be all about who has the shortest bar and the smallest chain ... I don't get it
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  19. #1144
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    cow hampshire
    Posts
    8,385
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    a bar pinch happens when you are cutting on the compression side of a limb/tree

    so you cut on the tension side

    but when it lets go other shit can happen

    so you need to learn to manage tension and/or compression

    Lots of info on youtube, you might wana learn some stuff cuz this shit can kill ya
    Right, but I had compression on both sides of where I was cutting. I only cut blow downs building trails, so I need to wedge something under to release it, but it's not always apparent on exactly how to do that...for me anyway.

    Am I really going to die? I bought the red one!!

  20. #1145
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,060
    cutting blow down & snags that are hung up is even more tricky than falling cuz now you got a tree half assed down and you can't just leave it like that especaily on a ski run or bike trail, so things could go a lot of ways

    Wedges are a big help so I always have a hatchet on my belt & 2 wedges in my cruiser vest

    cuz if you don't carry the stuff on you, instead of doing the right thing you will try and fudgeit

    and yes you are going to die ... but hopefully later than sooner
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  21. #1146
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    2 hours from anything
    Posts
    10,761
    Quote Originally Posted by rbtree View Post
    C'mon, fellas, get some real bar length.....

    That's a 660 sporting a 42" bar, a 13 hp woods ported 3120 paired with a 60", and a venerable 2100 mated to a 72"er.... tree was a 10.5' giant sequoia, 158 ft tall, 98 yrs old. It housed maybe 3% as much wood as the General Sherman.....

    That butt log averaged maybe 2' in length. The 90 ton crane's load cell said it weighed about 6500 lb..... In the spring redwood can weigh close to 70 lb per cubic foot, meaning is heavier than most US woods, save live oak!!


    https://flic.kr/p/M6mZKxClick image for larger version. 

Name:	Sequoia 29596733553_02d246e805_o.jpg 
Views:	81 
Size:	943.9 KB 
ID:	287134
    Very cool. Can’t imagine swinging a 72” bar. Good to see you back on here. Very curious what a job like that costs roughly?

  22. #1147
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    1,021
    If you are doing a lot of blow down- look up the fence posting technique for hung up trees- life saver (life prolonger?)

  23. #1148
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,997
    Quote Originally Posted by LHutz Esq View Post
    If you are doing a lot of blow down- look up the fence posting technique for hung up trees- life saver (life prolonger?)
    any examples to link? thx

  24. #1149
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    Dec 2005
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    15,847

  25. #1150
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    cow hampshire
    Posts
    8,385
    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    any examples to link? thx
    I found these.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o15CYYdy_oE

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUQ1p2QPdxU

    I'm not messing around with anything too big. I'll just go around.

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