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  1. #1501
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    1,009
    Quote Originally Posted by Phall View Post
    Just brought back my stepdads husky 50, it’s been hanging chain down for maybe 5 years unused. Put mix in but I can’t get it to turn over. Have spark and when I took the air filter off it’s putting off smoke as you try to turn it over so I think it has compression, it’s old, and dirty, so maybe this is a project where I need to strip it down completely and rebuild the whole thing.


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    Might just be a stuck needle in the diaphragm, at 0:40 here: https://youtu.be/xyOnjW_J_y8

    Might be able to get it unstuck without removing carb

  2. #1502
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    2,343
    If it starts on the squirt, I wouldn't bother with just one seal. Buy a kit, pull it apart and soak it overnight in carb cleaner. The welch plugs can be a bitch, but once you figure them out it's not too bad. Take pictures during disassembly. A carb took can help with the little o rings. I like the Tecumseh tool, LMK if you want to borrow it. I can drop it off on the way into work.
    Last edited by YourMomJustCalled; 02-26-2021 at 10:21 PM.

  3. #1503
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
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    59715
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    7,503
    Speaking for me, I don't rebuild carbs anymore because they're cheap and I'm kinda lazy.

  4. #1504
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    1,021

    The chainsaw thread...

    Just spray the fk outa it with carb cleaner. Get it through everything that has a hole. If you have a compressor blow it all out. Move the moving parts. Put it back together and go for it! If that doesn’t work you can choose to rebuild or purchase. It’s surprising what a good clean can do to an old carb.

  5. #1505
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    8530' MST/200' EST
    Posts
    4,416
    In the process of tearing this bugger apart, first off, the piston ring is toast, so I have a new one of those coming. Carb is out and will give that the full cleaner /compressor treatment. Reassemble with new fuel line and filter, air filter is brand new, and see what happens.
    "If we can't bring the mountain to the party, let's bring the PARTY to the MOUNTAIN!"

  6. #1506
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    OOTAH
    Posts
    3,974
    Ok its time to replace my 30 year old saw, shes been a champ but sadly I must move on.
    Quesotin is what saw? Seems like some serious knowldege in here. I am thinking either this one https://shop.husqvarna.com/us/chainsaws/455r
    Or this one https://www.stihlusa.com/products/ch...v=BVSpotlights

    What says the expert dentist/loggers?
    Samuel L. Jackson as Jules Winnfield: Oh, I'm sorry. Did I break your concentration?

  7. #1507
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Posts
    15,856
    Quote Originally Posted by teleee View Post
    Ok its time to replace my 30 year old saw, shes been a champ but sadly I must move on.
    Quesotin is what saw? Seems like some serious knowldege in here. I am thinking either this one https://shop.husqvarna.com/us/chainsaws/455r
    Or this one https://www.stihlusa.com/products/ch...v=BVSpotlights

    What says the expert dentist/loggers?
    IMO, between those two, it’s six of one, a half-dozen of the other. Both good homeowner units. Pick depending on which dealer is closer and/or better stocked - the dealer makes the main difference.

    XXX_er will be here in a moment to tell you to get a pro saw like the Stihl MS 261 or the Husky 534 XP, and he’s not wrong, but it depends on how much use you’re gonna give it. If you cut a few cords per year and clean up around the homestead, the ones you mentioned will be excellent. The more you use it, the more a pro saw will be a good choice. Again, go with the better dealer.

    https://www.stihlusa.com/products/ch...al-saws/ms261/
    https://www.husqvarna.com/us/product...-xp/967146202/

  8. #1508
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    OOTAH
    Posts
    3,974
    Quote Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper View Post
    IMO, between those two, it’s six of one, a half-dozen of the other. Both good homeowner units. Pick depending on which dealer is closer and/or better stocked - the dealer makes the main difference.

    XXX_er will be here in a moment to tell you to get a pro saw like the Stihl MS 261 or the Husky 534 XP, and he’s not wrong, but it depends on how much use you’re gonna give it. If you cut a few cords per year and clean up around the homestead, the ones you mentioned will be excellent. The more you use it, the more a pro saw will be a good choice. Again, go with the better dealer.

    https://www.stihlusa.com/products/ch...al-saws/ms261/
    https://www.husqvarna.com/us/product...-xp/967146202/
    Damn I was hoping no one would talk me into going to the pro model. I am all about spending a little more for long term durability, although I am certainly in the few cords a year and home cleanup category .... But I expect this saw to be one of those end of life purchases....
    Good advice on the best/closest dealer, I wasnt sure if there were any huge differences between the 2 brands, looks like nope!
    Samuel L. Jackson as Jules Winnfield: Oh, I'm sorry. Did I break your concentration?

  9. #1509
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    4,658
    Quote Originally Posted by teleee View Post
    Damn I was hoping no one would talk me into going to the pro model. I am all about spending a little more for long term durability, although I am certainly in the few cords a year and home cleanup category .... But I expect this saw to be one of those end of life purchases....
    Good advice on the best/closest dealer, I wasnt sure if there were any huge differences between the 2 brands, looks like nope!
    I have had good experiences with the service department at Ace in your neck of the woods, they are a Husqy dealer. That was like 7 or 8 years ago though, fwiw.

  10. #1510
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    OOTAH
    Posts
    3,974
    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    I have had good experiences with the service department at Ace in your neck of the woods, they are a Husqy dealer. That was like 7 or 8 years ago though, fwiw.
    I was going to go talk to them, I know they sell Husqy and they are probably the best customer service store in our area.
    Samuel L. Jackson as Jules Winnfield: Oh, I'm sorry. Did I break your concentration?

  11. #1511
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,089
    you can look on their sites and compare stats,

    I got the 261, Angle parking only got the 534 which are the comparable smaller pro models at about the same time and we run them 5-6 hrs at a time cutting ski run

    you might consider going pro if you are gona run the saw hard

    you are probably too old to wear out a pro saw
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  12. #1512
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    2,292
    Lots of way more knowledgeable folks here then me. I've had that rancher prob 5-6yrs and cut round 3-4 cords a year, camp wood quite often, and some work use(carpenter). I've had no big issues and like the saw.




    I have been thinking about adding a pro model stihl though(esp since new town only has stihl dealer).

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  13. #1513
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    2 hours to Whiteface
    Posts
    715
    Quote Originally Posted by teleee View Post
    Ok its time to replace my 30 year old saw, shes been a champ but sadly I must move on.
    Quesotin is what saw? Seems like some serious knowldege in here. I am thinking either this one https://shop.husqvarna.com/us/chainsaws/455r
    Or this one https://www.stihlusa.com/products/ch...v=BVSpotlights

    What says the expert dentist/loggers?
    I've had the 455 Rancher for about 5 years. It runs like a champ. I've got the 20 inch bar which might be a bit of overkill but has come in handy.

    I had it out today cutting up about 25 feet of a huge pine that blew over this winter (portion the town did not take).

    My only "complaints" are the chain oil reservoir leaks like a sieve - I'm told it was designed that way, and I wish it held 2x as much gas.

    I always run it dry and it starts up with no issues.



    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

  14. #1514
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,257
    +1 on the 455
    (Tho no oil problem here)

  15. #1515
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    1,316
    Quote Originally Posted by teleee View Post
    Ok its time to replace my 30 year old saw, shes been a champ but sadly I must move on.
    Quesotin is what saw? Seems like some serious knowldege in here. I am thinking either this one https://shop.husqvarna.com/us/chainsaws/455r
    Or this one https://www.stihlusa.com/products/ch...v=BVSpotlights

    What says the expert dentist/loggers?
    I like Husqy. They don’t change their shit, like side covers or mufflers, so often making it is easier to scavenge used parts. Even more so on pro models. I also don’t like how Stihls sound, but that’s probably a preference. They are higher pitched and whinier, even with earplugs, to my ears. But I don’t have much of an ear so it’s probably my bullshit perception.

    The best advice was already given. Go with whichever has a real dealer and repair shop closest by. Also, like gun safes, go with bigger than what you think you need.

    I like longer bars and chains with bigger saws because I can run chisel bit chain, but I have access to a grinder and have several chains and don’t want to fuck around hand filling. However, if you don’t want to have a lot of chains or take them to be ground maybe a smaller chain of full comp is better for you because you can sharpen anywhere? I like longer bars because I am lazy and don’t want to bend over as far. I also like having a bigger saw because when wood hinting sometimes the bigger wood gets left behind by the folks with the smaller saws.

    If I did talk you into a bigger saw, read your manual because it probably doesn’t want 50:1 Also, keep your tank full during storage and dump it before running it again if it’s been a while.

    Also, try to buy the power head solo so you don’t have to have the heavier standard bar and crappier chain. Lighter bars make a big difference in how much energy you will expel and your cutting precision.

    Save some budget for chaps and happy cutting!
    "Let's be careful out there."

  16. #1516
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    8530' MST/200' EST
    Posts
    4,416
    Got the Husq 50 running, but went all willy nilly on the carb screws, now I can't get it to idle without the chain moving. Total beginner here.
    "If we can't bring the mountain to the party, let's bring the PARTY to the MOUNTAIN!"

  17. #1517
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,089
    there is usually an initial setting on a carb mixture screw like 1 1/2 turns out from fully seated ( gently) comes to mind ?

    the other screw is just holding the throttle open to raise/lower idle, I have fiddled with idle a bit but made sure to not touch my mixture screw since new
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  18. #1518
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    OOTAH
    Posts
    3,974
    Thanks for all the advice, I pulled the trigger on the Husqy 455 rancher, I stared long and hard at the pro model, but I just cant justify the extra coin for a saw I wouldn't utilize enough.
    Samuel L. Jackson as Jules Winnfield: Oh, I'm sorry. Did I break your concentration?

  19. #1519
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    17,820
    you’ll be happy with that saw
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  20. #1520
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Posts
    15,856
    Quote Originally Posted by Phall View Post
    Got the Husq 50 running, but went all willy nilly on the carb screws, now I can't get it to idle without the chain moving. Total beginner here.
    Forgive me if I’m being too basic here. There are basically three adjustment screws on the carb. Two are right next to each other and control the fuel mixture, one for low rpm and one for high rpm. The third screw controls the idle speed, and that is probably the one you want to adjust, backing it out a little.

    We can do a little primer on the low and high mixture screws if you want, but first we should make sure you’re working with the right one for idle speed.

    This might help:

    https://www.manualslib.com/manual/74...?page=3#manual

    Quote Originally Posted by ~mikey b View Post
    you’ll be happy with that saw
    +1

  21. #1521
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    I can still smell Poutine.
    Posts
    24,721
    No Coke! Pepsi!

  22. #1522
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    8530' MST/200' EST
    Posts
    4,416
    We're back, just need to tune the H a bit, but its running, idling just fine now.
    "If we can't bring the mountain to the party, let's bring the PARTY to the MOUNTAIN!"

  23. #1523
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Granite, UT
    Posts
    2,343
    Quote Originally Posted by Phall View Post
    We're back, just need to tune the H a bit, but its running, idling just fine now.
    Usually the high will need to be adjusted after you load it up. Get to cutting.

  24. #1524
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    1,316
    Quote Originally Posted by YourMomJustCalled View Post
    Usually the high will need to be adjusted after you load it up. Get to cutting.
    Yup, adjust while loaded up.
    "Let's be careful out there."

  25. #1525
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    2,292
    Pretty sure I already posted this but dont forget the companion saw for your 455Click image for larger version. 

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