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  1. #101
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    sweet thanks
    The killer awoke before dawn.
    He put his boots on.

  2. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper View Post
    Nice pics MT.

    These make me want to start a discussion on the virtues of the Humboldt undercut:
    The Humboldt is good for allowing the butt to slide down off the stump, which can be helpful for a few reasons-- to lessen chances of the butt coming back over the stump, which can also help keep breakage down. A stepped up backcut is helpful as well, which wasn't employed in the photo, prolly cause it wasn't necessary. And the log wasn't being cut to sell, so no need to get a square butt. Hence the conventional cut, and high stump.

  3. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by Meadow Skipper View Post
    Nice pics MT.

    These make me want to start a discussion on the virtues of the Humboldt undercut:
    The Humboldt is good for allowing the butt to slide down off the stump, which can be helpful for a few reasons-- to lessen chances of the butt coming back over the stump, which can also help keep breakage down. A stepped up backcut is helpful as well, (aka stump shot) which wasn't employed in the photo, prolly cause it wasn't necessary. And the log wasn't being cut to sell, so no need to get a square butt. Hence the conventional cut, and high stump.

  4. #104
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    rbtree, that video is pretty fucking awesome.



    I hope you make a shit ton of money.

  5. #105
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    [QUOTE=rbtree;1991821][QUOTE=boredboiseboy;1991778]What? the circumfrance is shorter on a smaller bar, which means it will travel around the bar faster for any given RPM. Ive also used 460s with 8 drivers on hardwoods with no issue either.

    "Full house" refers to a cutter every drive link. No stock chain come this way. "Full comp" is the correct term. I run full comp on 16-24" bars, semi-skip on 24-28", and full skip on 28-72" bars.

    A few things......

    Bar length has nothing to do with chain speed, which is determined by the sprocket count, chain pitch, and operating rpm......If you are running that 460 as it came stock, and it is less than 6-7 years old, it will be faster with a 7 tooth sprocket on any bar over 25 inches....all recent stock Stihls are gutless till the horribly restricted mufflers are ported...and they run hot and won't last as they should--all thanks too the EPA and their crap regulations. Because of them, I'm stocking up on saws, as by 2010, saws as we know them will be dinosaurs.

    Chipper chain (fully rounded cutters) is a thing of the past. Semi-chisel is the term for today's slightly rounded cutters. Chisel comes square or round filed, square being about 8% faster. Full skip is only faster on long bars in softwood, as the cutter configuration aids in chip clearance. This point is confirmed by saw racers who use full comp. Full skip could be a tad faster for small underpowered saws as it takes a bit less hp to spin it....but small saws shouldn't be running anything over 20 inch bars......and usually .325 pitch chain.


    Oh, and we do residential tree work, which includes logging. So, we cut low stumps...as in all the way down.....to save stump grinder work, or cause the customer wants them that way.....or we leave wildlife snags....
    Lets put it this way.
    A 28" has a 91 driver chain. A 32" has a 102 driver chain. For the chain to make one full revolution on a 28" chain, an 8 link driver has to spin 11.3 revolutions to make the chain go around once. A 32" bar has to spin 12.75 times. A shorter chain will spin faster! at 13000 engine rpms a 28in chain will make 1150RPMs, while a 32inch bar will make 1019RPMS.

    However, on a given bar size, a 7 driver sprocket will give you more torque but a lower chain speed, and a 8 driver will give you more chain speed, but with lower torque. So if you have a 32in bar with an 8 bit vs a 7, it may CUT slower since it has less torque to pull chips, but the chain will be moving faster.

    As for full comp vs full skip, I've been running both on 044s and 046s for the past two years, and the full skips always cut faster. Fewer teeth=lower fiction and faster chain speed, which=faster cutting.

    What I meant with low stumps is that you dont need to cut low face cuts unless your cutting for board feet, not that you dont need to low stump after your done falling. Sorry, I was unclear and I think I misunderstood you.

    Also, you should buy your chainsaw based on how long of a bar you want to run. If your using a 046 for anything under 28", your really just going to wear yourself out faster and burn more gas when you could run a smaller saw.
    Last edited by boredboiseboy; 09-11-2008 at 11:26 AM.

  6. #106
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbtree View Post
    The Humboldt is good for allowing the butt to slide down off the stump, which can be helpful for a few reasons-- to lessen chances of the butt coming back over the stump, which can also help keep breakage down. A stepped up backcut is helpful as well, (aka stump shot) which wasn't employed in the photo, prolly cause it wasn't necessary. And the log wasn't being cut to sell, so no need to get a square butt. Hence the conventional cut, and high stump.
    It's also good for cutting on steep slopes, so your not lifting your saw over your head all the time.

  7. #107
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    really cool thread. way out of my league though.

    we run $190 18" Poulan for mountain bike trail work and so far they work great. seeing as it's trail work they're only used a day or two a week at most at we don't run 'em very hard. one has lived out on the mountain for over a year in the elements and still works awesome.

  8. #108
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    Quote Originally Posted by rbtree View Post
    The fella who helped me fall the pecker pole 2/3 through this video http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L2wMdGPEPfc used to be a hotshot. USFS Class C Certified by the man himself D Dougas Dent who wrote "Professional Timber Falling"
    That's a pretty good book. Short, but sweet.
    fun hater.

  9. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by boredboiseboy View Post
    What? the circumfrance is shorter on a smaller bar, which means it will travel around the bar faster for any given RPM. Ive also used 460s with 8 drivers on hardwoods with no issue either.


    Lets put it this way.
    A 28" has a 91 driver chain. A 32" has a 102 driver chain. For the chain to make one full revolution on a 28" chain, an 8 link driver has to spin 11.3 revolutions to make the chain go around once. A 32" bar has to spin 12.75 times. A shorter chain will spin faster! at 13000 engine rpms a 28in chain will make 1150RPMs, while a 32inch bar will make 1019RPMS.

    However, on a given bar size, a 7 driver sprocket will give you more torque but a lower chain speed, and a 8 driver will give you more chain speed, but with lower torque. So if you have a 32in bar with an 8 bit vs a 7, it may CUT slower since it has less torque to pull chips, but the chain will be moving faster.
    Chain speed doesn't have anything to do with whether you've got an 18" bar or a 200 mile bar. Speed of the chain is not a factor of how long it takes the chain to completes a lap of the bar. Think of speed as feet per second. At the same feet per second, the chain may make a complete lap around an 18" bar in less time than it would a 28" bar, but it's not traveling any faster, it just has farther to go. The speed at which the chain is traveling is dictated only by how fast the sprocket is pulling it. A smaller (less teeth) sprocket pulls the chain less distance in an engine RPM than a sprocket with more teeth.
    The killer awoke before dawn.
    He put his boots on.

  10. #110
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    Stihl and husky are hands down the best you can buy. Huskys are better 1 owner saws while stihls hold up better to the abuse of say (a crew) multiple people using the same saw. My personal favorite is the stihl ms361 which I use for pre-commercial thinning.

  11. #111
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    A must watch for all sawyers.


  12. #112
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    ^ I'm cringing here and ROTFL.

    "Thinks someone should move that car?"
    "Nah..."

    Thanks for that. Made my morning.
    And I guess that I just don't know

  13. #113
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    VC is offline Calmer then you are Dude
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    ^^ That's pretty much how hurricane cleanup was after Rita in Texas

  14. #114
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    zee humbolt in interior cedar...



    I don't work and I don't save, desperate women pay my way.

  15. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by Moose Pit View Post
    zee humbolt in interior cedar...



    I'm envious of your red nomex.

  16. #116
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    Has anyone used the little cordless chainsaws at all? How much do they actually suck?

    I'm looking for something lightweight and (more importantly) quiet, and the bow say is kind of a pain in the ass for anything over 4". Is it worth looking at the cordless chainsaws, or are they so bad that they're not worth bothering with?

    And yes, I realize that my manhood is seriously impugned by posting this...

  17. #117
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Has anyone used the little cordless chainsaws at all? How much do they actually suck?

    I'm looking for something lightweight and (more importantly) quiet, and the bow say is kind of a pain in the ass for anything over 4". Is it worth looking at the cordless chainsaws, or are they so bad that they're not worth bothering with?

    And yes, I realize that my manhood is seriously impugned by posting this...
    They are emasculating junk. You might as well get a boob job and a lop-it-off-a-me.

    Go silky bigboy quiet fast and light. works as a bomber bc winter saw as well.
    I don't work and I don't save, desperate women pay my way.

  18. #118
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    agree with Moosepit. A Dewalt cordless reciprocating saw with 8" wood blade might fit the bill and just may let you keep you manhood intact. Maybe.
    The killer awoke before dawn.
    He put his boots on.

  19. #119
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    Chainsaw cord pull repair tips?

    Cord jammed the other week. Against my better judgment disassembled the thing. Inevitably the coiled steel spring escaped. Spent an hour wrestling the thing back into a manageable coil and got it hooked back into place. It'll start fine but leaves me with six inches of cord that won't fully retract. Which is both irritating and potentially unsafe?

    Is there a trick how to pretension the thing? It's a Poulain... and yeah I know that's probably the problem.

    Quote Originally Posted by khakis View Post
    agree with Moosepit. A Dewalt cordless reciprocating saw with 8" wood blade might fit the bill and just may let you keep you manhood intact. Maybe.
    Doh. Should have just put the big branch cutting blade in the cordless. Then I wouldn't have needed to start the chainsaw.
    Quote Originally Posted by Downbound Train View Post
    And there will come a day when our ancestors look back...........

  20. #120
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbrit View Post
    Chainsaw cord pull repair tips?
    pm rbtree

  21. #121
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbrit View Post
    Doh. Should have just put the big branch cutting blade in the cordless. Then I wouldn't have needed to start the chainsaw.
    hehe yeah lopping branches is one of the best uses for a cordless recip.
    The killer awoke before dawn.
    He put his boots on.

  22. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbrit View Post
    Chainsaw cord pull repair tips

    Is there a trick how to pretension the thing? .
    Yo Brit, how are ya....long time no chat.

    Good on ya for getting the spring reinstalled.

    Anyhow, take the cover off, and check the pulley sheave for a little slot on its outer edge. pull a loop of cord out, and slip cord in slot, make a couple turns against spring pressure, using tension on the string to turn the pulley. Let loop out, and test tension on handle. Should be just enough so the cord springs back smartly, but when pulled out as if to start the saw, it doesn't get overly tight (which could mess with the spring)

    Reinstall and go "pull on" that Poulan......heh


    lemme know if you need any work done at the cabin.

  23. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by PNWbrit View Post
    It's a Poulain
    why would you even waste your time with the rest of the typing? would you ski on a pair of 170 rossi rental skis from 1995 unless you were trying to make yourself look like a moron?

  24. #124
    doughboyshredder Guest


    .......

  25. #125
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    looking for a good deal on any of the 3 different Husky 346XP's, if anyone wants to explain the difference between the models thatd be sweet as well. anyone got any advice for me on where/which to buy?

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