The chainsaw thread...

[CascadeLuke]

Solid. Think you guys are right.

[XXX-er]

I’ve been reading about plastic vs metal gear wheels in some of the cheap saws. Clearly plastic can’t be good. I think I’ll probajly end up with a small quiver of saws. Nice to have a cheap saw for nasty stuff like dirty pinion. Wouldn’t mind having a better saw in the rare time I cut something bigger.
I had an arborist help with a project out of my league a while back, he was super stoked on his mini gas powered pole saw.

A lot of the cheaper homeowner saws have engine cases (no not the covers) made of plastic,

might be ok if you are gona run it for 15min

if you run it next to your buddies real saw they sound anemic

and your dick shrinks

SO if you want to run all day get a real industrial grade saw

[Rideski]

My wages today tallied up for a few saws.

[Rideski]

This is part of a wedge slice from a 20 foot limb from an 80 foot tree.
With this abscess in the heart, was it destined to fall soon, or is the surrounding wood more than enough to hold it for a while?
It was horizontal and weighed maybe 60-80 pounds.
Dead, needed to come off anyway, but just curious how long it would have stayed.

Also now that it’s cut, easy entry into the tree. I’ve heard nothing you can do, but it seems like spraying expanding foam in there would be a good idea. It’s 20 feet up off the ground, would not be visible.

[~mikey b]

make one of those epoxy things with that

[lifelinksplit]

Solid. Think you guys are right.

Yeah was gonna say same. I did it accidentally once on my husky. It took quite a bit of force to Jigger(TM) it back.

[Rideski]

I’ve been giving away a considerable amount of wood. I’ve used a few wood stoves but not a ton. How many require 12” max length vs 16”?
My setting would be smaller urban stoves currently, I figure t might make a difference.

[rbtree]

This is part of a wedge slice from a 20 foot limb from an 80 foot tree.
With this abscess in the heart, was it destined to fall soon, or is the surrounding wood more than enough to hold it for a while?
It was horizontal and weighed maybe 60-80 pounds.
Dead, needed to come off anyway, but just curious how long it would have stayed.

Also now that it’s cut, easy entry into the tree. I’ve heard nothing you can do, but it seems like spraying expanding foam in there would be a good idea. It’s 20 feet up off the ground, would not be visible.

When it was alive, that limb had the same failure risk as if it had been intact wood. That amount of defect is minimal. In fact, a tree can be 80% hollow but if it has a complete cylinder of live wood with no breaks/gaps/thinner areas in that cylinder, its strength will be over 80%
Don't worry about the cavity. Do NOT fill it with anything. When I started in the industry in 1975, it was still common practice to fill cavities with cement, or about anything. About that time, research was finding it to be detrimental to the tree. Good thing. I still remember firing up my Jonsy 920Super, which was sporting a new chisel skip chain on a 36" bar and starting a face cut in a madrona. Didn't look to see what might be there. Cement. Cutters were over 50% hammered. Tossed the chain. Ouch!

Vid shows a technique called vertical speed lining. It a way to drop wood onto a slope and have it stay put. Easier than negative rigging with a block below the cut and friction device below, which is how we did the upper trunk sections. That was the smallest of three Douglas-fir. Had we been able to access them with a crane, there would have been close to 5000 board feet in them. The heaviest section we lowered was close to 1800 lb on the largest tree. Thankfully we were able to free drop the bottom 40 feet of it, as it was 44" dbh!!

[jackstraw]

How would you go at taking this down?

[Meadow Skipper]

Start with all the non-load-bearing smaller branches at the (former) top of the tree, trying to get the broken part to rest on one sturdy branch. Then start working your way up toward the trunk, doing undercuts on the load-bearing branch as far as you can. Then wedge-cut and back-cut the trunk to bring what’s left down on the ground.

That’s all best-case theoretical from looking at the picture, assuming there’s a sturdy hinge at the break that will support the former top. If not, I’d wedge-cut the trunk and back-cut to drop the thing 90 degrees from the broken part axis.

[Timberridge]

And have an escape path plotted if/when it rolls. The side facing looks really sketch for that.

I always like to notch the loaded branch on the top before doing the under cut because I've had them roll a bit and pinch the bar with just a plain undercut. Then I have to run back to the house and get saw #2.

[jackstraw]

Start with all the non-load-bearing smaller branches at the (former) top of the tree, trying to get the broken part to rest on one sturdy branch. Then start working your way up toward the trunk, doing undercuts on the load-bearing branch as far as you can. Then wedge-cut and back-cut the trunk to bring what’s left down on the ground.

That’s all best-case theoretical from looking at the picture, assuming there’s a sturdy hinge at the break that will support the former top. If not, I’d wedge-cut the trunk and back-cut to drop the thing 90 degrees from the broken part axis.

Ok, that is what I was thinking, but wanted a second opinion.

And have an escape path plotted if/when it rolls. The side facing looks really sketch for that.

I always like to notch the loaded branch on the top before doing the under cut because I've had them roll a bit and pinch the bar with just a plain undercut. Then I have to run back to the house and get saw #2.

Ahh, that makes a lot of sense as well.

Thanks guys

[I Skied Bandini Mountain]

Get the trunk started at 3 or 9 o'clock to the break and fall one of the nearby trees into it to knock it all down.

[Thaleia]

So I replaced the rotted out gas lines in my pos poulan chainsaw.

Spent an afternoon using it and it was running better than I ever remember.

Went to use it the next day and when I start it it's revving really really high and spinning the chain at 'idle'.

If I squeeze the trigger it goes to nuclear rpm's that I've never experienced with this engine. Obviously not running it long at this speed. I've tried playing with the fuel and air trims and idle speed screws but I don't think it's having any affect. (I've never had to adjust these screws so I have zero experience with what to expect)

It's as if the idle speed has been mechanically advanced somehow. Does this sound crazy?

Any ideas? Besides throwing it in a lake?

[Lawless]

You're running too lean. Not enough gas. Did you replace the gas line with a n OEM one? Sure it's the right diameter? Some of the cheap replacement lines will collapse under pressure and cut down the flow of fuel.

If it's not your fuel line, you need to clean your carb and get it tuned. If the old fuel line was rotten, it could have put debris into your carb and plugged up some of the holes.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

[Thaleia]

You're running too lean. Not enough gas. Did you replace the gas line with a n OEM one? Sure it's the right diameter? Some of the cheap replacement lines will collapse under pressure and cut down the flow of fuel.

If it's not your fuel line, you need to clean your carb and get it tuned. If the old fuel line was rotten, it could have put debris into your carb and plugged up some of the holes.

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

Too much air = higher rpms? I've got a lot to learn.

I know the wider diameter tube was the correct size, but aren't a 100% sure about the thinner tube.

I'll check that and have a closer look at the carb.

Thank you.

[skisurfmirth]

Jackstraw, I found this in a training manual. Hope it helps.

[gravitylover]

What if you want a leaner to fall in a slightly different direction than the lean? I have one that would clip the house if I let it go the way it (seems to) want to.

[XXX-er]

What if you want a leaner to fall in a slightly different direction than the lean? I have one that would clip the house if I let it go the way it (seems to) want to.

you would be smart to hire a tree removal pro who has experiance AND insurance

[Meadow Skipper]

What if you want a leaner to fall in a slightly different direction than the lean? I have one that would clip the house if I let it go the way it (seems to) want to.

That’s getting in to advanced level felling. Things like the depth of the face cut, hinge wood, Dutchman cuts, etc. Googling for felling a leaner or the guy that posts as @rbtree could probably explain it better than I could. But go on YouTube and search on tree cutting or felling fails so that you can check out the costs of oopsie-daisy.

Edit: XXX-er has a bit of wisdom there. I guess if you’re asking, you should get someone with expertise...and insurance.

[bodywhomper]

I would not fell my first leaner like that if the consequence of a mistake or calculation error is hitting a structure. It’s definitely something to learn and understand when consequences are low

[Bronco]

How big is the tree? I've used a block and 100' cable attached to a pickup to pull many small - medium size trees away from buildings.

[Timberridge]

you would be smart to hire a tree removal pro who has experiance AND insurance

and a calm day. They way they do it around me is a climber goes up and limbs it first then they lop off trunk sections. The risk is too great to do a standard fell.

[neufox47]

What if you want a leaner to fall in a slightly different direction than the lean? I have one that would clip the house if I let it go the way it (seems to) want to.

First things first, is that section of the house in need of a remodel?

As a homeowner, you are likely insured for property damage you cause that is not intentional. So you (probably) are insured. Maybe just lacking the experience part though.

[mbb118]

I am a beginner woodworker. I started to learn several basic woodworking tools like hand saws, sanders, files, and hammer. Besides, I am reading different articles like this article where the author makes a good discussion on this useful cutting too.