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Thread: The chainsaw thread...
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08-27-2019, 10:55 PM #1226
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08-28-2019, 08:13 AM #1227Registered User
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- Oct 2012
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- Mount Cain
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- 30
I hate Husky!
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08-28-2019, 10:19 AM #1228
The hinge held in the respect that the tree didn't go sideways or anything, The tree fell right where I wanted it to go. I still had 3-4" of wood in the hinge (I didn't measure it but there was a good amount of wood still there). I'm actually glad the hinge didn't hold or the tree would have definitely BC'd with that much pressure on it.
The severe lean of the tree (~20 degrees) and the weakened wood were likely the problems here.
Here are rough diagrams of the cuts:
Top View. Pink line is the hinge wood, blue is the where I planned to leave the anchor. When the tree fell, I was actually about to pull my saw out as I had finished the plunge cut.
Side view. Blue line is the face notch, pink is the plunge cut. I used a Humboldt notch because I wanted the tree to kick out toward the field more (which it did).
Aim for the chopping block. If you aim for the wood, you will have nothing. Aim past the wood, aim through the wood.
http://tim-kirchoff.pixels.com/
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08-28-2019, 10:39 AM #1229Registered User
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- Mar 2008
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- northern BC
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I had the same thing ^^ on a big rotten core tree, soon as I banged in the wedges on either side of the plunge cut the holding wood at the back snapped on its own but the tree did go where I wanted, I guess you want to keep an eye on that holding wood when you use this method ?
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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08-28-2019, 11:14 AM #1230
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08-28-2019, 11:34 AM #1231
My nearly retired climbing and felling friend cut his teeth along the eastern seaboard and inland mountains working as an independent (lone wolf), managing a company, managing large crews, and working for a big international company before he started exploring and working mostly in the west. A few weeks ago, I spoke to him about that technique of face cut -> plunge to set hinge/holding wood -> cut to remove back strap and drop the tree. He told me that he never uses that technique. Next time I have a chance, I’ll ask him how he may have handled that situation because I’m curious. Even after a long career cutting and felling, he seems pretty engaged in discussing technique and considering techniques he does/did not use.
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08-28-2019, 12:44 PM #1232Registered User
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- Mar 2008
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- northern BC
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- 30,879
IME its^^ accurate and I like using it
maybe he doesn't need to cuz he is really good ?
the last course I took buddy showed us how to do plunge cuts,
the scenario hee gave was a tree had dropped on yer buddy so you need to do a plunge cut a section of tree to get him outLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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08-28-2019, 12:52 PM #1233Registered User
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- Oct 2015
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- 1,866
Crazy not to use that technique on a heavy leaner. Barber chairs are scary.
East coast trained Faller I worked with used that technique on almost every cut regardless of lean.
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08-28-2019, 12:55 PM #1234
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08-28-2019, 01:09 PM #1235Registered User
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- Mar 2008
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- northern BC
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- 30,879
If yer air filter is plugged it can alter the mixture, they are cheap so i bought a spare which i swap out at the end of every day to be washed and dryed
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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08-28-2019, 04:31 PM #1236
Saw seems good now!
Buttoned it up this morning and it fired on the 3rd pull: 1 pull on full choke and 2 on half choke/high idle. Warmed it up for a while, killed the engine and fired it up several more times w/o problems, and fiddled with the LA and L setting a bit to get it back the way it was. 4 hrs later, it fired up on the second pull in the “on” position, and I got it into some wood. About half way through a tank, I adjusted the LA a bit, finished off that tank, and ran it through another tank.
So in the past end of this current saw-ga, it needed a new spark plug, some general cleaning (I got a lot of muck out of the ignition area, and a carb cleaning.
Thanks for all the help!
Back to felling techniques
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08-31-2019, 12:18 PM #1237
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09-23-2019, 11:06 PM #1238
Why hate Husqies?
Best part of a Husqy is the long parts runs, so old parts (like side-covers) work on newer saws.
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09-23-2019, 11:21 PM #1239
A bit of Q&A and resources for the interested:
http://www.madsens1.com/mnu_saws.htm
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09-24-2019, 11:54 AM #1240
Here's a completely new question that I'm pretty sure no one has asked before. Thinking about getting a new saw. Will be used for firewood, and a bunch of use for trailwork (where weight matters).
I'm more or less down to a Stihl 261 or Husq 550XP. I've had Husqies in the past and tend to prefer them for relatively minor reasons, but the newest 261 makes a bit more power and Stihls seem to have a slightly better track record for durability.
Anyone have any compelling arguments for one or the other?
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09-24-2019, 11:57 AM #1241
Stihl dealer service
I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.
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09-24-2019, 12:00 PM #1242
I went with the 261 but basically due to the local stihl dealer reviews vs husky dealer. I’ve only used it lightly so far. Only thing I’d note is to follow the startup instructions to a T. They are easy to flood if you don’t, at least compared to other older saws I’ve run.
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09-24-2019, 12:02 PM #1243
Yeah, fair points. The local Stihl dealer is great. The local Husqie dealer is fine, but not as good as the Stihl dealer.
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09-24-2019, 12:22 PM #1244
Depending on quantity of work and other factors you may want to look at the battery options. Not significant weight difference, but very low maintenance costs. I understand professional crews are turning to them for climbers.
*feedback received from pro arborist friend and not based off own personal experiences*
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09-24-2019, 12:56 PM #1245
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09-24-2019, 01:51 PM #1246
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09-24-2019, 02:20 PM #1247
That's tempting. But the gasser will still likely get used for lots of trailwork, which frequently involves riding in with the saw on my back. Lighter is better in that scenario, and a 462 with a bigger bar isn't super packable. I have a husqie 455 with a 24" bar that I've packed in a bit - it's similar in terms of weight and dimensions to the 462 (albeit way less powerful), and it kinda sucks riding with that thing. It's noticeably more work than riding with a ~50cc saw, and realistically, a 50cc saw will handle everything that I regularly encounter. Biggest thing I really ever cut is maybe a 2' softwood.
I guess the answer is really that I should have (read: want to have) 3 saws in the quiver. Small battery saw, 50cc saw, and something bigger. But the big saw is kinda low on the priority list at the moment.
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09-24-2019, 06:17 PM #1248
Ms241 is lighter than the ms261 by a little less than a pound w/ empty tanks. The weight difference is more noticeable when their tanks are full.
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09-24-2019, 06:43 PM #1249Registered User
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- Mar 2009
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- Aspen, Colorado
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- 2,645
For trail work, on the Moto, I use a Husky 55(pre rancher) with a 20” bar. For mtn biking and kayak clearing I have a Skil chainsaw with a 12” bar. It does surprisingly well. It might be surpassed by the 36v Makita chainsaw I got for home yard work if battery life is ok. The electric saw is slower, but it is also nearly silent
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09-26-2019, 09:11 AM #1250
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