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  1. #1226
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
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    8,963
    Quote Originally Posted by char_ View Post
    Ok, sparks good. Newish airfilter on the saw?

    (No point in putting on a new carb without a new airfilter....)
    Thanks!

  2. #1227
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Mount Cain
    Posts
    30
    I hate Husky!


    Sent from my iPad using TGR Forums

  3. #1228
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Middle of the NEK
    Posts
    5,754
    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    So your hinge didn’t hold/direct?
    The hinge held in the respect that the tree didn't go sideways or anything, The tree fell right where I wanted it to go. I still had 3-4" of wood in the hinge (I didn't measure it but there was a good amount of wood still there). I'm actually glad the hinge didn't hold or the tree would have definitely BC'd with that much pressure on it.
    The severe lean of the tree (~20 degrees) and the weakened wood were likely the problems here.
    Here are rough diagrams of the cuts:

    Top View. Pink line is the hinge wood, blue is the where I planned to leave the anchor. When the tree fell, I was actually about to pull my saw out as I had finished the plunge cut.
    Name:  stumpcut top.jpg
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    Side view. Blue line is the face notch, pink is the plunge cut. I used a Humboldt notch because I wanted the tree to kick out toward the field more (which it did).
    Name:  stumpcut side.jpg
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    Attached Images Attached Images  
    Aim for the chopping block. If you aim for the wood, you will have nothing. Aim past the wood, aim through the wood.
    http://tim-kirchoff.pixels.com/

  4. #1229
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    I had the same thing ^^ on a big rotten core tree, soon as I banged in the wedges on either side of the plunge cut the holding wood at the back snapped on its own but the tree did go where I wanted, I guess you want to keep an eye on that holding wood when you use this method ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  5. #1230
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    cow hampshire
    Posts
    8,294
    Quote Originally Posted by From_the_NEK View Post

    It's funny. Watching these vids gets me gripped! wtf. I know what's going to happen, but still.

  6. #1231
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,963
    My nearly retired climbing and felling friend cut his teeth along the eastern seaboard and inland mountains working as an independent (lone wolf), managing a company, managing large crews, and working for a big international company before he started exploring and working mostly in the west. A few weeks ago, I spoke to him about that technique of face cut -> plunge to set hinge/holding wood -> cut to remove back strap and drop the tree. He told me that he never uses that technique. Next time I have a chance, I’ll ask him how he may have handled that situation because I’m curious. Even after a long career cutting and felling, he seems pretty engaged in discussing technique and considering techniques he does/did not use.

  7. #1232
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    IME its^^ accurate and I like using it

    maybe he doesn't need to cuz he is really good ?

    the last course I took buddy showed us how to do plunge cuts,

    the scenario hee gave was a tree had dropped on yer buddy so you need to do a plunge cut a section of tree to get him out
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  8. #1233
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    1,866
    Crazy not to use that technique on a heavy leaner. Barber chairs are scary.

    East coast trained Faller I worked with used that technique on almost every cut regardless of lean.

  9. #1234
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,963
    Quote Originally Posted by char_ View Post
    Crazy not to use that technique on a heavy leaner. Barber chairs are scary.

    East coast trained Faller I worked with used that technique on almost every cut regardless of lean.
    I agree. That’s why I’m curious.

  10. #1235
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,879
    If yer air filter is plugged it can alter the mixture, they are cheap so i bought a spare which i swap out at the end of every day to be washed and dryed
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  11. #1236
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,963
    Quote Originally Posted by bodywhomper View Post
    Going to button it up tomorrow morning and see if it runs. If not, and the cylinder is still flooding, I’ll track down a carb kit in town and hope that solves this problem. I need a functional medium-sizes saw ASAP.
    Saw seems good now!

    Buttoned it up this morning and it fired on the 3rd pull: 1 pull on full choke and 2 on half choke/high idle. Warmed it up for a while, killed the engine and fired it up several more times w/o problems, and fiddled with the LA and L setting a bit to get it back the way it was. 4 hrs later, it fired up on the second pull in the “on” position, and I got it into some wood. About half way through a tank, I adjusted the LA a bit, finished off that tank, and ran it through another tank.

    So in the past end of this current saw-ga, it needed a new spark plug, some general cleaning (I got a lot of muck out of the ignition area, and a carb cleaning.

    Thanks for all the help!

    Back to felling techniques

  12. #1237
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,963
    Cross post. My “bigger” saw was running good enough for this.... I did all sawing but the notch. My friend gave lots of guidance while staying out of the fumes.
    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	292743

  13. #1238
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    1,282
    Why hate Husqies?

    Best part of a Husqy is the long parts runs, so old parts (like side-covers) work on newer saws.

  14. #1239
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Posts
    1,282
    A bit of Q&A and resources for the interested:

    http://www.madsens1.com/mnu_saws.htm

  15. #1240
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    13,841
    Here's a completely new question that I'm pretty sure no one has asked before. Thinking about getting a new saw. Will be used for firewood, and a bunch of use for trailwork (where weight matters).

    I'm more or less down to a Stihl 261 or Husq 550XP. I've had Husqies in the past and tend to prefer them for relatively minor reasons, but the newest 261 makes a bit more power and Stihls seem to have a slightly better track record for durability.

    Anyone have any compelling arguments for one or the other?

  16. #1241
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    the Low Sierra
    Posts
    17,818
    Stihl dealer service
    I didn't believe in reincarnation when I was your age either.

  17. #1242
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    2 hours from anything
    Posts
    10,732
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Here's a completely new question that I'm pretty sure no one has asked before. Thinking about getting a new saw. Will be used for firewood, and a bunch of use for trailwork (where weight matters).

    I'm more or less down to a Stihl 261 or Husq 550XP. I've had Husqies in the past and tend to prefer them for relatively minor reasons, but the newest 261 makes a bit more power and Stihls seem to have a slightly better track record for durability.

    Anyone have any compelling arguments for one or the other?
    I went with the 261 but basically due to the local stihl dealer reviews vs husky dealer. I’ve only used it lightly so far. Only thing I’d note is to follow the startup instructions to a T. They are easy to flood if you don’t, at least compared to other older saws I’ve run.

  18. #1243
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    13,841
    Yeah, fair points. The local Stihl dealer is great. The local Husqie dealer is fine, but not as good as the Stihl dealer.

  19. #1244
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    South Central
    Posts
    745
    Depending on quantity of work and other factors you may want to look at the battery options. Not significant weight difference, but very low maintenance costs. I understand professional crews are turning to them for climbers.

    *feedback received from pro arborist friend and not based off own personal experiences*

  20. #1245
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
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    13,841
    Quote Originally Posted by mooseknuckle View Post
    Depending on quantity of work and other factors you may want to look at the battery options. Not significant weight difference, but very low maintenance costs. I understand professional crews are turning to them for climbers.

    *feedback received from pro arborist friend and not based off own personal experiences*
    Yeah, I haven't bought one yet, but I'll likely be buying a smaller battery saw in the near future for small jobs. But I still want a "real" saw for bigger tasks and firewood.

  21. #1246
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    South Central
    Posts
    745
    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    Yeah, I haven't bought one yet, but I'll likely be buying a smaller battery saw in the near future for small jobs. But I still want a "real" saw for bigger tasks and firewood.
    In that case - get a Stihl MS462 with 20 and 25” bars. Will be liquidating my trusty 261 for one of them. It’s a demon.

  22. #1247
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    13,841
    Quote Originally Posted by mooseknuckle View Post
    In that case - get a Stihl MS462 with 20 and 25” bars. Will be liquidating my trusty 261 for one of them. It’s a demon.
    That's tempting. But the gasser will still likely get used for lots of trailwork, which frequently involves riding in with the saw on my back. Lighter is better in that scenario, and a 462 with a bigger bar isn't super packable. I have a husqie 455 with a 24" bar that I've packed in a bit - it's similar in terms of weight and dimensions to the 462 (albeit way less powerful), and it kinda sucks riding with that thing. It's noticeably more work than riding with a ~50cc saw, and realistically, a 50cc saw will handle everything that I regularly encounter. Biggest thing I really ever cut is maybe a 2' softwood.

    I guess the answer is really that I should have (read: want to have) 3 saws in the quiver. Small battery saw, 50cc saw, and something bigger. But the big saw is kinda low on the priority list at the moment.

  23. #1248
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    8,963
    Ms241 is lighter than the ms261 by a little less than a pound w/ empty tanks. The weight difference is more noticeable when their tanks are full.

  24. #1249
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Aspen, Colorado
    Posts
    2,645
    For trail work, on the Moto, I use a Husky 55(pre rancher) with a 20” bar. For mtn biking and kayak clearing I have a Skil chainsaw with a 12” bar. It does surprisingly well. It might be surpassed by the 36v Makita chainsaw I got for home yard work if battery life is ok. The electric saw is slower, but it is also nearly silent

  25. #1250
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    I can still smell Poutine.
    Posts
    24,503
    Quote Originally Posted by neufox47 View Post
    I went with the 261 but basically due to the local stihl dealer reviews vs husky dealer. I’ve only used it lightly so far. Only thing I’d note is to follow the startup instructions to a T. They are easy to flood if you don’t, at least compared to other older saws I’ve run.
    Stihl is known for the startup instructions. It was made by Germans, so you'll have that.

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