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  1. #51
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    35,321
    My dream is a titanium/carbon saw, with a silencer.
    4 hp should be sufficient.
    Got one of those laying around?
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    549
    Dang....nope...

    Just get a Silky handsaw....fast and stealthy!!

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    la la land
    Posts
    5,801
    Killer deals on Husky saws here:

    http://www.a-chainsaw.com/chain-saws...rna-c-1_2.html

    Trigger pulled on Husky 350. Got free shipping, extra chain, hard carrying case, 20" bar and chain lube for the same price as the 350 with 18" bar and no goodies at Lowes. They are located in SLC.
    `•.¸¸.•´><((((º>`•.¸¸.•´¯`•.¸.•´¯`•...¸><((((º>

    "Having been Baptized by uller his frosty air now burns my soul with confirmation. I am once again pure." - frozenwater

    "once i let go of my material desires many opportunities for playing with the planet emerge. emerge - to come into being through evolution. ok back to work - i gotta pack." - Slaag Master

    "As for Flock of Seagulls, everytime that song comes up on my ipod, I turn it up- way up." - goldenboy

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Livingston, MT
    Posts
    1,777
    The Stihl 36 is a good option, but I was truly impressed by a Husky 55 rancher this week at work. We used it to demolish a bridge and were cutting in nut deep water. Can't believe the thing was still running as we had half the bar under water and it was still ripping. The wood was also of the creosote soaked variety. Husky's are usually lighter than Stihls, which is also a plus. As far as the altitude thing, we use to scrap the epa carbs 3/4-1/4 turn carbs (bad two stroke huffer, bad), for the older full turn carbs. We did this on 44's along with a mild trail port, and holes in the dual port exuast screens. lots of little things you can do to make it scream up high.
    MMMMMM saws...
    Love the idea of a tricked out light wait saw you could throw on a pack and ride with. For now I carry a small pruning saw (hand saw, not power unfortunately, cause my 46 w/ 32" bar is just to big to fit in my camel back) to cut out small stuff while riding.

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    TGR Forum
    Posts
    523
    Homelite-10" bar

    It's got more paprika.

  6. #56
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Yes Please
    Posts
    1,107
    Oh oh... I feel a song comin' on.....









    Not around much these days.

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Location
    Before
    Posts
    27,877

    From The Don of Backwoods Wisdom: Red Green

    Merde De Glace On the Freak When Ski
    >>>200 cm Black Bamboo Sidewalled DPS Lotus 120 : Best Skis Ever <<<

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Posts
    6,385
    bump

    anyone in denver have access to wholesale prices on a silky ibuki? I could not find a page for ibuki, but it is silky.

    Better yet, anyone have one to loan? I'm near downtown denver and drive to DTC all the time.

    Also could deal with borrowing a chainsaw as well. Mine is about done. I've cleared 90&#37; of the trees I need to but have a couple left and my current rig is not going to cut it, pun intended.

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    6,012
    Figures I'd run across this thread now. Bought a Stihl MS290 last weekend and am happy with it's performance, but a lighter, more powerful saw for the same price would've been cool.
    ...Some will fall in love with life and drink it from a fountain that is pouring like an avalanche coming down the mountain...

    "I enjoy skinny skiing, bullfights on acid..." - Lacy Underalls

    The problems we face will not be solved by the minds that created them.

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Posts
    15,768
    Quote Originally Posted by Chainsaw_Willie View Post
    Figures I'd run across this thread now. Bought a Stihl MS290 last weekend and am happy with it's performance, but a lighter, more powerful saw for the same price would've been cool.
    Powerful, light, cheap - pick any two.

  11. #61
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Ten Mile Vistas
    Posts
    4,022
    I bought a Stihl 361 Pro last year.

    Damn, it's a fuckin' nice saw. Cuts through 15" logs like buttah.
    Old's Cool.

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Posts
    615
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddy View Post
    Just got the same and it works great... had to cut up this 60' pine after a little wind storm blew onto my trailer. Amazingly enough, there only one small hole in the roof!





    that there's a husky 455 - ask me how I know? 'cause I lent it too you!! See you tonight . tomorrow we SAIL!

  13. #63
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Planning an exit
    Posts
    5,930
    Bump.

    Looking at the Husq 350 or the Stihl 290. Are there any significant differences or specific maintenance issues that I should be aware of before going to look at them? Also, any specific things to look for in a used chainsaw.

    To cut firewood in my area I need a spark arrestor. Is this standard or an add on that I can do myself.

    Thanks.

  14. #64
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    549
    Quote Originally Posted by concretejungle View Post
    Bump.

    Looking at the Husq 350 or the Stihl 290. Are there any significant differences or specific maintenance issues that I should be aware of before going to look at them? Also, any specific things to look for in a used chainsaw.

    To cut firewood in my area I need a spark arrestor. Is this standard or an add on that I can do myself.

    Thanks.
    The 350 is a lot lighter, with only a bit less power.....and probably cheaper.

    Or, for $100 or so more, you could get a pro saw like a Dolmar 5100S. Dealers and scattered and dealer support is lacking, but the saw kicks ass. Can be had for about $380....

    Unmodified stock saws will all have a wire mesh screen in the muffler. Needed if you're cutting on FS land.

    Los of used saws on craigslist....Look for one that appears well cared for, and not all dinged up. Pull the muffler and examine the piston. Turn it over till you can see the intake side of the cylinder. If both look clean, and the saw has good compression, it's prolly fine.

    good saws are : Stihl 260, 360. 361, Husqvarna 350, 351, 353, 346 XP, 359 (best overall near pro level saw)

    Lots more are OK...Shindaiwa makes no bad saws, Solo, Dolmar are good, Echo is OK,

  15. #65
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    1,748
    I have a Stihl MS 390.....


    When I bought my saw last year it was between the Stihl 390 and the Husky 359. I actually went in to buy the 359......and started thinking about the stihls my family has had for cutting firewood, and how a couple of them are literally 40 years old and still run very well. Ended up with the Stihl.....sometimes I think I would have probably like the power ratio better on the Husky, but I'm over it. Mine does great, runs great, cuts wood as fast as I'd like it to, and it doesn't weigh too much.

  16. #66
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    WI
    Posts
    4,396
    Does any manufacturer make a left-hand designed chainsaw? I grew up using standard chainsaws, but for safety reasons always placed my left hand forward, which made it less comfortable when cutting a pick-up load of firewood. After all these years I've gotten used to it, but now that I put a wood fireplace in my new home I don't feel like borrowing one of my father's anymore.


  17. #67
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Posts
    1,748
    Quote Originally Posted by Grange View Post
    Does any manufacturer make a left-hand designed chainsaw? I grew up using standard chainsaws, but for safety reasons always placed my left hand forward, which made it less comfortable when cutting a pick-up load of firewood. After all these years I've gotten used to it, but now that I put a wood fireplace in my new home I don't feel like borrowing one of my father's anymore.

    This actually is another reason I ended up with the stihl. I don't cut with my left hand forward, but the angle that the handle is at on the stihl is much less severe than that of the the Husky......the husky tends to hurt my wrist and elbow after cutting for a while.


    Not a bad idea to pick up and handle a saw before you buy.

  18. #68
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    549
    nope, no left hand saws are made.....

    I'm a lefty....never had a problem...but then, I've run saws for over 35 years...

    Yes, some prefer the more straight across angle of Stihl top handles.....I'm not partial. I own Stihl, Husky, Dolmar, Solo, Shindaiwa, and used to run Echo, Poulan, Hoemlite, McCullough....

  19. #69
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    GRRD
    Posts
    2,419

    MS 460

    I like Stihls because of the weight balance. Seem to be 'shorter' lengthwise and 'taller' vertically. Feels more nimble. I was on a MS 440 for a few years then bumped up to the MS 460. You want a left hander? The MS 441 and the 460 have the full wrap handle bar so you can flip her over and make proper back cuts using the BOTTOM of the bar. Cutting with the top of the bar can bring on the dreaded kick back to the neck sort of thing. Be careful. Cutting pants are good idea.

    I just ordered an arrestor the other day actually, god damned government telling me I can't start forest fires...

    My buddy was running his 460 with a 16" bar for a while. Super high chainspeed and light weight. He decided it was dangerous though and it minimized reach so he back with 20" bar.

  20. #70
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Planning an exit
    Posts
    5,930
    Are there any benefits to a longer bar if the trees you're cutting aren't going to be very thick i.e. lodgepole pines?

  21. #71
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    GRRD
    Posts
    2,419

  22. #72
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    GRRD
    Posts
    2,419
    A longer bar (24" +) is heavier and slower chain speed ie slower cut. 20" is pretty much stock and good all around. Some say if you have 'skip tooth' chain you can get high chain speed too because of less weight of chain but you have 1/2 the cutting surface. You can cut stumps nice and low with 20" and not have to bend over too much.

    For fire wood you could go with 16" bar, full house chain. Noticeable difference in cut time.
    Last edited by carpathian; 07-17-2008 at 10:13 PM.

  23. #73
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Location
    YetiMan
    Posts
    13,370
    Quote Originally Posted by train07 View Post
    edit... jonsered is a very serious contender...not a toy..if available close to you, check em out
    edit #2 well fuck ..you did say light weight didn't ya......never mind, shirley
    I worked with this hot chick at a forestry company who ran a jonsered...all I remember of her is of her cutting into a wasp nest in a downed log and being mercilessly swarmed, chucking the jonny down the hill, and running away screaming and ripping her shirt off.
    oh my. jonsered = boobies in the woods.


    edit: I used to be a real husqy diehard. I'm slowly but surely adapting to this forest's staunch unwillingness to run anything but stihls. it still bugs me, but at least I don't mind running saws that constantly run like shit and aren't built to be easily serviced on a daily basis.


    also: I'd like to find a used 372 or 044/440/460...if any of you would part with something pm me. I have a pair of 192 bro models I'd trade.
    Last edited by ill-advised strategy; 07-17-2008 at 11:34 PM.

  24. #74
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Down In A Hole, Up in the Sky
    Posts
    35,321
    I am amazed that this thread has such legs...and I still haven't found the perfect saw.
    I am workin on a trail design project here in the Ruby Mountains (NV), where saw needs are very different in the Big Hole's/Tetons...here, everything is basically 12" or less, suitable for a lightweight, nimble, short length saw.

    Can one get a single, stout 'head unit' (motor) and switch blade lengths, chain configuratins, etc, easily?

    Is there a 'switchblade' saw, that is worthy, and not a gimmicky P.O.S.?

    Would such a saw be desireable, if it is not easily findable?

    (Jong thoughts, I know...)
    Forum Cross Pollinator, gratuitously strident

  25. #75
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Barff
    Posts
    1,350

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