Bro's mount position

**monkeybones** · 12-11-2005, 07:37 PM

Would I really be happiest with a center mount, or should I shift it back 1?

**seldon** · 12-11-2005, 07:47 PM

Thanks for all the information on your skiing style, height and weight, where you ski, JONG.

**splat** · 12-11-2005, 08:23 PM

Bones - since we shifted the waist back 20mm this year and the boot centerline moved 7mm back (1038 mm [40-7/8"] from top center of tip, tape latch hung over, no bends in tape) there's a little more flexibility in moving it back. If you drop back to 1045 mm, the ski will open the turns up bigger. Shorter carves and snap turns are easier with it at 1038 and you'll never hear anyone say the tip dives. Last year the sweet spot was pretty miniscule. There's a reason we give the recommendation at 1038.

**Mcwop** · 12-11-2005, 09:05 PM

I went 2cm back from lats year's mount-point. Feels good.

**monkeybones** · 12-11-2005, 09:22 PM

Originally Posted by splat

Bones - since we shifted the waist back 20mm this year and the boot centerline moved 7mm back (1038 mm [40-7/8"] from top center of tip, tape latch hung over, no bends in tape) there's a little more flexibility in moving it back. If you drop back to 1045 mm, the ski will open the turns up bigger. Shorter carves and snap turns are easier with it at 1038 and you'll never hear anyone say the tip dives. Last year the sweet spot was pretty miniscule. There's a reason we give the recommendation at 1038.

I just got your email. Thanks.

**splat** · 12-11-2005, 09:47 PM

Originally Posted by Mcwop

I went 2cm back from lats year's mount-point. Feels good.

Since you're heading to Alta, McWop, pm 2P or AK Pogue and get on the new stiffs with demo binders and ski them for a day after skiing yours and get back to me, wouldja? Pleez? Move them around and see what feels good.

**DINMS** · 12-12-2005, 02:43 PM

Rather confident over that mount position aren't you splat?

**Yossarian** · 12-12-2005, 02:48 PM

Doesn't seem like over confidence to me? Sounds like input is still being sought.

Originally Posted by splat

Since you're heading to Alta, McWop, pm 2P or AK Pogue and get on the new stiffs with demo binders and ski them for a day after skiing yours and get back to me, wouldja? Pleez? Move them around and see what feels good.

**DINMS** · 12-12-2005, 02:51 PM

You may be right.

**Vets** · 12-12-2005, 08:54 PM

I think that Splat's recommended mounting point is right where is needs to be.
I have skied last year's as well as this year's Bros at the recommended mounting point as well as forward and back from that point.
If moved forward it becomes a ski that is easy to turn by staying centered and throwing it around. However, in this position it doesn't feel quite as stable. It also feels like you are leaning over the handle bars when you apply forward pressure/charge hard.
If moved backward the ski takes more effort to turn and prefers to make long arcs.
I feel that skiing the recommended mounting point makes the ski most versatile and allows it to be skied the way it was designed to be skied - put on edge and driven forward. It is a very responsive ski - the more you put into it, the more pleasure it returns.
Just my opinion.
Perhaps Idris and Tyrone Shoelaces might be able to add their feelings about this topic.

**Mcwop** · 12-12-2005, 09:57 PM

Originally Posted by splat

Since you're heading to Alta, McWop, pm 2P or AK Pogue and get on the new stiffs with demo binders and ski them for a day after skiing yours and get back to me, wouldja? Pleez? Move them around and see what feels good.

I will try to hook up with them and give it a whirl. However, the conditions may not be the best for the test. Pray for snow.

**Arty50** · 12-13-2005, 01:39 AM

What Vets said. He, Ty, and myself were all playing around with the mounting point at Mammoth a couple of weeks ago. Due to my huge feet, I wasn't able to adjust the demo binders to be right on top of the center point. I was about 3cm ahead of or behind it. I would have loved to have been right in the middle because that's where the ski would be most versatile. We all compared notes at the end of the day and pretty much came to the same conclusion about where the sweet spot is. We all ski differently too. I know others have played with them also, and I wouldn't be surprised if they came to the same conclusion. Bottom line: trust splat's numbers.

**Vinman** · 12-13-2005, 08:26 AM

I have last year's model mounted on center mark. I'm not a big dude (5'8 ~145lbs) and ski them on the EC. I find the center mark to be a pretty good spot for me. Being light, I found no need to mount them back at all. The tip doesn't dive on me and turn initiation on hard snow also pretty smooth from that spot. And, as others have said, due to their light weight, swinging them around in tight spots is also pretty easy.

**ridgebandit** · 12-14-2005, 01:38 AM

Hey Splat,

What about the mounting position on the 179 stiffs? I'm 5'11" and 230 lbs and like tight lines and am often in windblown, crud infested areas. Where is the sweet spot on the 179? Thanks.

**Tyrone Shoelaces** · 12-14-2005, 02:02 AM

Originally Posted by ridgebandit

Hey Splat,

What about the mounting position on the 179 stiffs? I'm 5'11" and 230 lbs and like tight lines and am often in windblown, crud infested areas. Where is the sweet spot on the 179? Thanks.

We haven't even made a single one yet bandit. Once we do however, we'll be sure to test & dial-in the optimal mount point just as we have for the 188's in the past.

**ridgebandit** · 12-14-2005, 02:27 AM

Right on... I think I'll go with the 188's anyway. Don't know when I'll get them or how long I'll have to wait... but I'll wait as long as I have to!

**flipsRscary** · 04-17-2011, 02:31 AM

So I've got Sinecure's 188 Soft Plus Bros and am trying to figure out how to mount them.

I was hoping to just re-use his holes, but some of the front holes aren't in great shape and the track on my TLT speed is coming up more than a bit short.

In terms of where to mount, my gut feeling is that I'd want to be on the line. My best guess is that this is a 2006, which means that I may have a bit more leeway in moving around (would love to hear solid input on which year this ski is, and more to the point just how constrained the sweet spot is).

Drastically effective solutions include inserts (and drilling the overlapping holes on a mill) or moving to plates. Unfortunately Jon appears to be out of inserts at the moment, and plates are a bit expensive for a ski this old (though I'm hanging on the the thought as a last resort).

The closest to optimal approaches are:

1) mount on (1038 mm) line
- re-use front holes
-- three spinners (center front on one, two on same side on other)
---- steel wool / epoxy (can't pull one front binding flush on one side)
---- helicoil (would need to find a shop)
---- threaded inserts (unavailable at the moment)
---- some other insert: brass, plastic (I know very little about these)
- new holes in back would have 3 mm edge to edge clearance

2) mount 7mm forward
- re-use (good) rear holes
- new holes in front would have 4 mm edge to edge clearance

3) mount 1 cm back
- new holes in front would have 3 mm edge to edge clearance
- new holes in back are good

If this wasn't a dynafit, I'd just mount on the line with steel wool and epoxy to hold onto the spinners. I could then still go to threaded inserts once they become available again.

7mm forward is the most structurally sound approach, but is likely the wrong mount point
1cm back puts lots of holes close together in the front, but may be viable.
On the line forces me to deal with the spinners on the toe piece.

Ideas, suggestions?

**splat** · 04-17-2011, 12:22 PM

On the line.

7mm forward will be more turny, not float as well in pow.
1 cm back reduces hardpack grip in the shovel.

Steel wool, sawdust and epoxy will hold it if mixed right and well if there's no rot in the holes. You really don't even need to let it set up and drill the hole again as long as the steel wool and sawdust grip the screw when you go into the hole. The amount of solid material you add to the epoxy needed to get that grip really isn't that much, but it has to grip. Once it sets up, it should be good to go, if done right. Make sure the epoxy has more than enough cure time at 70 degrees.

**Zeppelinskier** · 04-17-2011, 12:55 PM

179's mounted at the line is $$$. Skiing in any condition any day isn't a problem, they were tits in the last round of storms we got in Tahoe. I ski a softer version not sure I could considerate soft though....anyway I am also skinny as hell so I find the 179's perfect. Plus they are light as hell mounted with dynafits. Quick snappy turns or cruz medium radius c turns in pow all day. If I were skiing resorts more I would get the stiffs.