Setting forward pressure on Salomon bindings with tab adjustment

[El Chupacabra]

What's the proper procedure to set forward pressure on Salomon bindings that use a tab on the heelpiece (rather than the worm screw on the heelpiece)?

If you slide the heelpiece forward with boot in the binding, you end up with a bit more slack than seems ideal.

So do you set it snug with boot in heelpiece, remove boot, slide heelpiece 1 notch forward, then re-insert boot for test fit? If I set it up this way, the heelpiece pushes rearward a bit when inserting the boot, as if it's designed to do this. <-- correct method?

[Conundrum]

The heelpiece moving is fine. There should be a little arrow on the back of the side of the main body. When the forward pressure is correct, this little arrow will be pointing in between the scribed lines on top of the tab.

[Mechmaster]

What's the proper procedure to set forward pressure on Salomon bindings that use a tab on the heelpiece (rather than the worm screw on the heelpiece)?

If you slide the heelpiece forward with boot in the binding, you end up with a bit more slack than seems ideal.

So do you set it snug with boot in heelpiece, remove boot, slide heelpiece 1 notch forward, then re-insert boot for test fit? If I set it up this way, the heelpiece pushes rearward a bit when inserting the boot, as if it's designed to do this. <-- correct method?

The heel movement is the preload in the forward pressure spring. You can move the heel with the boot engaged or disengaged. I usually remove the boot so I don't have to fight the forward pressure spring.

If you look closely at the worm screw heel, you'll see the same motion when a boot is engaged.

Make sure you set the forward pressure with the toe wings fully backed off. This will ensure that you get the proper three point contact in the toe and will go a long way to preventing the toe wing screw(s) from stripping.

[El Chupacabra]

Thanks Mechmaster & Conundrum -- I'll look for this arrow --

The heelpiece moving is fine. There should be a little arrow on the back of the side of the main body. When the forward pressure is correct, this little arrow will be pointing in between the scribed lines on top of the tab.

I guessed that the heelpiece moving is the spring preloading the forward pressure, just wasn't sure about how much was enough. I didn't realize there was an indicator.

[Jim S]

Karl,

If you crank 'em too high and don't release when you need to, drive across the street for your MRI.

[El Chupacabra]

Karl,

If you crank 'em too high and don't release when you need to, drive across the street for your MRI.

No offense, but I hope to never ever see you professionally...

My big goal for the year: don't get injured. The past 6 months have been recovery from one thing or another. I'm tired of it and ready to ski until May.

[Jim S]

I hope so too!

[wildstyle]

Heres the location to download the Salomon Shop manual for 2005/6. It has all the instructions for all the bindings they make and much more besides.

http://www.salomoncertification.com/...SPM_06_web.pdf (9.32Mb)

[ill-advised strategy]

^^^^now that's some usefull ass shit^^^^

[mammuth]

Heres the location to download the Salomon Shop manual for 2005/6. It has all the instructions for all the bindings they make and much more besides.

I just registered here only to say "THANK YOU!!!!!"

[stoicchris]

I've got an older pair of Salomon 997 Test bindings with the tab adjustment at the back. It doesn't have the forward pressure indicator like the newer models. I'm wondering how to adjust the forward pressure properly. Right now I've just lined up the heelpiece with the back of my boot and then adjusting the wings at the front and the toe height. Is this correct?

[glenplake]

I've got an older pair of Salomon 997 Test bindings with the tab adjustment at the back. It doesn't have the forward pressure indicator like the newer models. I'm wondering how to adjust the forward pressure properly. Right now I've just lined up the heelpiece with the back of my boot and then adjusting the wings at the front and the toe height. Is this correct?

i've got a pair of 957s... on the back there are two triangles. when your boot is in the binder, these triangles should be within the hash-marked areas.

it should go from looking like this (you are looking at the back of the rear binding piece):

==.......==
==.......==
==.......==
...|< >|....

to this when the boot is in:

==.......==
==|< >|==
==.......==

[stoicchris]

i've got a pair of 957s... on the back there are two triangles. when your boot is in the binder, these triangles should be within the hash-marked areas.

it should go from looking like this (you are looking at the back of the rear binding piece):

==.......==
==.......==
==.......==
...|< >|....

to this when the boot is in:

==.......==
==|< >|==
==.......==

How far so should the track move back when I click in? Should the triangle move half a hash mark or should it move one and a half hash mark?

[stoicchris]

How far so should the track move back when I click in? Should the triangle move half a hash mark or should it move one and a half hash mark?

Anyone know?

[Vitamin I]

Anyone know?

Just measured my s914s. Should be the same as yours.

When I click the boot in, the tab with triangles does not move, but the rest of heel piece moves backwards. If heel piece moves backwards 3-9mm, then triangles are within the indicator.

If your setting gets only 3mm or 4mm movement, you're within the indicator range, but that's very close to the loose limit. So I'd go one notch tighter, which might put you slightly beyond 9mm (not sure), but I'd rather be slightly too tight than slightly too loose...especially with old bindings.
.
.

[wildstyle]

keep in mind that on the 997/977/s900/s916/s920 binders, you only set the forward pressure adjustment by 3mm anyway so for the s914 3-5 mm will be fine. It won't be too loose.

This can be 1 hash mark into the hashed area.

Try not to crank it up another notch UNLESS the tab mark only moves 1-2 mm. If it moves 3-4 mm and you crank it up another notch, you risk applying too much forward pressure preventing the boot from twisting out at the front.If you do this, you will normally see the tab mark all the way over the other side of the tab area at which point it stops being safe.

this is exactly the reason why we still go for the older binders as it allows perfect adjustment of the forward pressure.

Stoicchris, can you send a photo of the forward pressure adjustment on those binders please , i just want to make sure we're on the same page here.

[stoicchris]

Here we go. I've posted two photos here: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/chbars...arsi/my_photos

The photo labeled "OpenR" is the binding in the open position. When I lock the boot in, "ClosedR", the triangle moves from the R position to midway between the S and T hash marks.

If I move the heelpiece to the S position and then step in, the binding still moves between the S and T hash marks. Which setting is preferable?

[couteau]

I'm looking for more info but not specific to solly. I bought new boots which are a smaller sole length (by 18 mm).

Two of my bindings (Atomic NEOX 6-12 and some Markers (i know, i know)) are free floating, so i was able to adjust them without remounting, and able to maintain boot-center position. My solomons will likely need remounting as i think even if i'm able to drive the heel piece far enough forward, it would noticeably affect the way the iggies ski.

I'm wondering if i should still take them in to a shop to check things like forward pressure, height adjustment, release, etc. In other words, is what i did safe for my knees?

Sorry if my jong search skills glazed over the answers...

[LC]

If you have to ask, get them checked. You're either confident you set them right or you're not.

For the remount, if you want to keep the same position then you should be fine with just a toe remount 9mm back and sliding the heel 9mm forward at its current mount. Leave it to the shop guys and say you want just the toe moved if it'll work. S900/etc heels give you about 15mm adjustment each way so you should be fine.

[SpinalTap]

Heres the location to download the Salomon Shop manual for 2005/6. It has all the instructions for all the bindings they make and much more besides.

http://www.salomoncertification.com/...SPM_06_web.pdf (9.32Mb)

Bookmarked. Thanks.

[bertrenolds]

So I opened the wings all of the way, then lifted the rear tab and slid the binding forward until the point of the triangle was within the 2 hash marks with the boot in the bindings. then I put a piece of paper under the toe and snagged the wings. Then with the piece of paper still under the toe I adjusted the height of the toe binding to where I had to firmly tug on the piece of paper while pulling back on the boot to remove the piece of paper.

From what I've read this is the correct way to do it, some people do it without the paper but I decided to use it.

My question is, I had to replace one of the rear heal plates the binding slides on because the brake tab broke. The new plate is a little different from the original because now I can't get the triangles to line up in the same position between the hash marks for both bindings. The points of the triangles are both between the hash marks but not in the same spot. So do I go and make the shop put a new plate on the other binding so they line up? Or do I forget it because both triangle points are between the hash marks? One boot fits tighter in the binding then the other which concerns me a little.

[Vitamin I]

So I opened the wings all of the way, then lifted the rear tab and slid the binding forward until the point of the triangle was within the 2 hash marks with the boot in the bindings. then I put a piece of paper under the toe and snagged the wings. Then with the piece of paper still under the toe I adjusted the height of the toe binding to where I had to firmly tug on the piece of paper while pulling back on the boot to remove the piece of paper.

From what I've read this is the correct way to do it, some people do it without the paper but I decided to use it.

My question is, I had to replace one of the rear heal plates the binding slides on because the brake tab broke. The new plate is a little different from the original because now I can't get the triangles to line up in the same position between the hash marks for both bindings. The points of the triangles are both between the hash marks but not in the same spot. So do I go and make the shop put a new plate on the other binding so they line up? Or do I forget it because both triangle points are between the hash marks? One boot fits tighter in the binding then the other which concerns me a little.

Props to you for finding this thread instead of starting a new one.

Yes, you adjusted your binding by following all the correct steps. It's OK that you did the toe height last AS LONG AS toe height was already close enough during your FW pressure adjustment. Sounds dumb, but following your sequence, it is possible for first-timers to perform the FW pressure step while the toe height is so ridiculously high that the boot toe misses the proper contact points and instead fits way UNDERNEATH the proper position. When this happens, I think most people would notice it looks wrong and could just start the sequence over again and succeed on the 2nd try.

Your new plate is OK, and the plate does not matter. Your sliding heelpiece is the key part which holds BOTH the triangle and the hashmarks on the tab (my point is that the FW pressure indicators are accurate even if the sliding heelpiece is removed and in your hands, without any plate at all). Just forget it and go skiing, because both triangle points are now between the hash marks. If you discover that the looser of the 2 heels releases a lot when you don't want it to release, then try the next tighter setting even if it might be a tiny bit out of the indicator range, and then go skiing again. But while on the tighter setting, continue to pay attention to your releases (or lack thereof) and set it back to previous loose position if it does not release when you want it to. It will all turn out fine, unless you frequent no-fall zones, in which case maybe you shouldn't be on the 912 model in the first place.

.

[strawjack]

- always snap your boot into the binding twice after adjusting the forward pressure. it is a good habit.

- too much forward pressure can cause pre releases. your boot will not bend...it will release out of the toe.

[bertrenolds]

"unless you frequent no-fall zones, in which case maybe you shouldn't be on the 912 model in the first place." What would you suggest as a no fall zone binding? 912s are a little dated. As of right now, I have a friend that is gonna get me another new plate so that both plates are identical and both bindings release the same. Otherwise I could be in the market for newer bindings, things are tight and i have to pay for skiing in utah so I cant afford to much..

[Singel]

No fall zone binding = 916, P18, etc. (Metal>Plastic). There is nothing wrong with 912's, and in most ways they are actually better than the new Z12's.