Composite decking questions

[frorider]

Got a small front porch with stairs (stair edges pretty worn) & I’d like to replace the current 5.5” solid wood boards with composite. Partly because of the staining hassle every 2 yrs or so but also to improve wildfire resistance if possible. 16” joists.

- the moderate price options (trex Transcend or Select) are Class B fire rating, similar to slower burning solid wood materials apparently?

- For another 50% in price I could get Timbertech with a Class A rating. I’m not replacing the solid wood joists below, just using metal screen skirts to prevent embers from getting under the porch, so maybe I’m overthinking this class A vs B thing anyway?

- the step planks will have exposed ends. Guy at the local lumberyard was clueless about how to cover up those ends. I’ve seen plastic endcaps online but also read you can paint the ends?

[truckeelocal]

When I put Trex down it needed 12", not 16", spacing. Just sayin'.
Oh, and Trex routers easily, if messily, if you want to get creative with the ends.

[skaredshtles]

When I put Trex down it needed 12", not 16", spacing. Just sayin'.
Oh, and Trex routers easily, if messily, if you want to get creative with the ends.

We had Trex on 16" at our previous house and it was... kinda bouncy. It worked, but our current composite deck is on 12" and feels a whole lot more solid.

And the ends of our "boards" are similarly un-finished and I don't notice, TBH.

[frorider]

Thx. With the gray colors, the inherently gray core is hardly noticeable on the ends, but with the light brown maple colors the gray core is very noticeable.

[lifelinksplit]

If you really care about the exposed edges you can get skirt/fascia boards($) and cap your outside stringers. There are also other tricks like v notching and a heat gun to make mitered corners just google them. Also I much prefer timbertechs hidden fastner system compared to trexs. Ones metal the other is plastic among other things. And most of the lower level options call out 12 o.c. for joists. Got nothing to add about fire ratings.

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[skaredshtles]

Thx. With the gray colors, the inherently gray core is hardly noticeable on the ends, but with the light brown maple colors the gray core is very noticeable.

Interesting - the stuff we have is brown all the way through...

[Mustonen]

I routered all my cut edges even with the different colored core. Just looks better even with the color change.

[singlesline]

Timbertech has paint codes and recommended paints for their colors. I assume a paint shop will have lists for Trex or similar or can match an offcut.



Or you can rip the edges off a board and glue them to your ends...but that sounds like a lot of work.

Or you cut a 45-degree miter on every end and then cut a bunch of little 45-degree plugs from another board and glue them on, might be easier than ripping little patch veneers, but might look funny on stairs where you can see the side of the board.

I'd probably just buy a quart of paint.

[frorider]

Thx. The TimberTech ‘expert’ (who didnt know 1.5” thickness existed) said the ends couldn’t be painted for a durable solution but now I’m leaning toward bullnosed textured aluminum to protect the front edge, might as well put it on the ends as well.

[singlesline]

Actually, it looks like they even sell a special end coating for the task.

https://www.timbertech.com/product/end-coating/

"Expert" indeed.

[adrenalated]

"expert" that deals primarily with contractors that can't be fucking arsed to do anything to finish it at all

[skialpy]

Picture framing the treads looks nice but requires additional stringers. Painting probably the way to go.

[Caucasian Asian]

Picture framing the treads looks nice but requires additional stringers. Painting probably the way to go.

I came to post this.
And "picture framing" in a complimentary color looks really sharp.

[tuco]

The v notch , heat gun, bend and glue method Lifelink stated would by far look the best

[lifelinksplit]

To be fair, I have only done notched 45s on outside corners mostly. I don't do a ton of decking(mostly framing) but for stairs I typically picture frame. Not sure about the extra stringers? It just takes more blocking and then depending on your climate careful with spacing/drainage and use deck tape. Since it's existing who knows what the previous installer did. Oh and you typically want to use non-grooved material for stairs and face screw. Tons of ways to skin a cat depending on your level of care/time/money

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[old goat]

Add closed stringers to cover the tread ends. My stairs between decks has closed stringers, no risers, I push the snow off the treads onto the lower deck.