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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    342

    Advice on climbing shoes for ski boot feet

    Figured someone here has dealt with this before. I have a decent size styloid bump on the outside of my midfoot from ski boots that gets grumpy fast in climbing shoes. It’s bad enough that I try to climb in my approach shoes as much as possible what limited climbing I do, but still can only hand a few pitches in pretty otherwise comfy old leather climbing shoes.

    Thanks in advance

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    15' from MT
    Posts
    412
    La Sportiva Mythos. They stretch out nicely for weird shapes n'shit. I originally started using them for the stretch to fit due to having a difference of 2 sizes between my feet.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    238
    Second the Mythos. Not only does the unlined leather upper stretch to fit your foot, but the lacing system provides a lot of adjustability.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
    Posts
    1,034
    so, you are simply looking for a new pair of climbing shoes ....
    how about resoling the comfy old shoes?

    mythos are nice, however, they never fit my narrow heel
    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2019
    Posts
    342
    Quote Originally Posted by romeo tango View Post
    so, you are simply looking for a new pair of climbing shoes ....
    how about resoling the comfy old shoes?

    mythos are nice, however, they never fit my narrow heel
    .
    Likely new. My old ones are 15+ years old, pretty floppy and not all that comfortable.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sikskiyou's
    Posts
    1,558
    If you don't mind slippers, the 5.10 Moccasym is unlined leather upper and will mold to your foot like a glove. However, quality can be hit or miss these days, and the new version has too much rubber on top of the toe box, IMO. These days I wear the La Sportiva Cobra Eco for comfort shoes... similar situation as the Moc's but slightly more aggressive. Neither of these will be good for heel hooks, but for face climbing, easier trad, multi-pitch...my go-to's. ymmv

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    closer
    Posts
    5,815
    If sportiva, then cobra. Stretches like hell without getting floppy and fits the weirdest feet. And it's really cheap, at least here. And they are much better Shoes than the Mythos. I actually bouldered 7C ( that's about V25.12d in freedom grades) in them. Which is basically near impossible in Mythos.

    Heel hooks are hard if you actually have pull on them. Some stabilizing Font style Heel smears Work quite well because they are super sensitive.

    They are my go to fontainbleau Shoes, because you can wear them for hours and still climb really precise stuff. If I tried to to a 50 problems blue or 40 red ( 6 hours) Parcours in my Theories or my scarpa insincts I'd Probably die.
    It's a war of the mind and we're armed to the teeth.

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