Will it fit?

[ALFONSO618]

On3p Jeffs mounted originally for a 310 mm BSL pivot cast system.

The new boot is a 326 mm BSL, with plans for cast system

According to on3p they suggested a -1cm mount from the line because of kicks turns and whatnot

To the best of my knowledge I’m looking at 1.6 cm difference between the original BSL and the new.

Rather than drilling new holes and moving the toe piece forward can I adjust the rear enough for proper forward pressure? Isn’t the adjustability only 6-8 mm?

If this was another style binding I wouldn’t bother asking but my knowledge of pivots are limited compared to sth2, attacks and griffins

Thanks!


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[waxloaf]

Unfortunately you've got no chance of getting 16mm of adjustment in a pivot heel

[waveshello]

Depending on where your midsole falls w/the existing toe mount, I would consider moving the heel back instead of the toes forward so you don't have to screw around with remounting the CAST toes.

[ALFONSO618]

Depending on where your midsole falls w/the existing toe mount, I would consider moving the heel back instead of the toes forward so you don't have to screw around with remounting the CAST toes.

Aren’t cast toes the same as pivot holes? Will it not sit flush because of the plugs or something?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[halliday]

Aren’t cast toes the same as pivot holes? Will it not sit flush because of the plugs or something?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Waveshello has the answer. Just move the heel piece back.

[waveshello]

Aren’t cast toes the same as pivot holes? Will it not sit flush because of the plugs or something?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Yeah it's the same, but the CAST toe mount needs a very flat topsheet, holes located accurately and perpendicular to the topsheet, or the toe pieces will bind on the studs.

There are a lot of ways to flatten the topsheet--I like to use a carpenter's chisel. To keep it flat, best to chamfer and tap the new holes after drilling so they don't volcano under the plate when installing the screws.

Keeping the holes located properly and perpendicular is easier if you have a jig or drill press, but a practiced hand works too. It's just as important when tapping to keep the tap perpendicular too.

When mounting, after running the screws in, but before tightening down, you need to put one of the toe pieces on and finish tightening the screws with the toe piece on. That helps align the screws/studs. Then you wanna make sure all three of the other toe pieces also fit. If you did a good job creating the holes and keeping the top sheet flat, all 4 will go on and off easily. If not, loosen the screws just a little till the toe piece that didn't fit well goes on, then tighten with that one in place and recheck the others.

All that to say it's way easier to move the heels if you're ok with what that does to the mount point.

[ALFONSO618]

Yeah it's the same, but the CAST toe mount needs a very flat topsheet, holes located accurately and perpendicular to the topsheet, or the toe pieces will bind on the studs.

There are a lot of ways to flatten the topsheet--I like to use a carpenter's chisel. To keep it flat, best to chamfer and tap the new holes after drilling so they don't volcano under the plate when installing the screws.

Keeping the holes located properly and perpendicular is easier if you have a jig or drill press, but a practiced hand works too. It's just as important when tapping to keep the tap perpendicular too.

When mounting, after running the screws in, but before tightening down, you need to put one of the toe pieces on and finish tightening the screws with the toe piece on. That helps align the screws/studs. Then you wanna make sure all three of the other toe pieces also fit. If you did a good job creating the holes and keeping the top sheet flat, all 4 will go on and off easily. If not, loosen the screws just a little till the toe piece that didn't fit well goes on, then tighten with that one in place and recheck the others.

All that to say it's way easier to move the heels if you're ok with what that does to the mount point.

Thanks for the heads up! Planning to move the heels back instead of messing with the toes.

Anything I should do to prep the front holes since the cast system has been removed already and the new one will need to be re-screwed in?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[waveshello]

Thanks for the heads up! Planning to move the heels back instead of messing with the toes.

Anything I should do to prep the front holes since the cast system has been removed already and the new one will need to be re-screwed in?


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Just make sure it's flat!

[SirVicSmasher]

If you ski hard move the toe. The heel pattern for pivots consists of 4 holes clustered very tightly . So close together that it can cause the ski to break. Imagine you moved the heel back now you have two clusters of holes underfoot that really weakens the ski. Good luck

Sent from my SM-S916U using Tapatalk

[ALFONSO618]

Thread jacking my own thread…

If I have a 312 BSL and I’m looking to mount a Sth2 on a pre drilled ski… how much forward can I move the rear binding plate? Can I mount for a 295 BSL or a 300 BSL and still achieve proper forward pressure? Trying to cover up some holes while avoiding others…


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[arild]

Thread jacking my own thread…

If I have a 312 BSL and I’m looking to mount a Sth2 on a pre drilled ski… how much forward can I move the rear binding plate? Can I mount for a 295 BSL or a 300 BSL and still achieve proper forward pressure? Trying to cover up some holes while avoiding others…


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

You could likely mount for a 300 BSL, but then run the risk of not having any forward pressure adjustability what so ever.

Sent fra min LE2123 via Tapatalk

[fbw360]

I'm going to be trying to do the same next week, see if STH2 305 BSL holes will work for a 290 BSL. Seems right on the edge of the range so we will see - might be out of luck. Can report back with findings if you havent done your mount yet.

[halliday]

Thread jacking my own thread…

If I have a 312 BSL and I’m looking to mount a Sth2 on a pre drilled ski… how much forward can I move the rear binding plate? Can I mount for a 295 BSL or a 300 BSL and still achieve proper forward pressure? Trying to cover up some holes while avoiding others…


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Go on the Praxis website and get some new skis.

[fbw360]

Reporting back..
Was able to re-use the 305 BSL holes without too much issue for my 290 BSL. Measured and they were mounted exactly per template. I actually used an old 2x4 and mounted the bindings at the existing hole template first, then checked forward pressure - maybe being overly careful but I didnt want to mess with the old threads more than needed.

I should note that I am probably half a crank past the "stop here" line when the screw sits flush, but I think that should be okay. I would say that 300 BSL might work (I was working with a 15 mm delta and you only have 12) but probably no chance for 295. Might be worth trying first with a spare 2x4 as I did, only took about 10 min since you can be sloppy with drill depth and no glue.

Used this template and worked well enough