A candid BC Backcountry Ski Touring lodge review.
There are lots of trip reports about backcountry lodge trips in BC you can check out online, but there aren't many comprehensive backcountry lodge reviews to be found. Eventually, I'd like to visit most of the lodges in BC as many of them are well positioned for a week of ski touring. However they all are different and each offer their own particular flavour.
Over the years, I’ve had the pleasure of working at numerous backcountry ski touring lodges in British Columbia. This BC backcountry lodge review aims to give you an idea of the terrain, the level of comfort at the lodges and the overall experience I’ve had at the respective lodges I’ve visited.
Lodges are listed in alphabetical order. Scoring is 1-5.
BACKCOUNTRY SKI TOURING LODGE REVIEW
Burnie Glacier Chalet
The Burnie Glacier Chalet is perched on the east side of the Howson Range, southwest of Smithers, BC. The lodge sleeps 10 guests two guides and a cook. Smaller sized groups and smaller guest to guide ratios are one of the perks about this lodge. The terrain is also incredible- big glaciated terrain with ample opportunities to do really nice circuits is a highlight. The lodge has a fantastic sauna, private rooms and running water. The toilets are well designed outhouses which are a short walk from the lodge.
Overall Score
Accommodations 5
Terrain 5
Value 5
Golden Alpine Holidays
Meadow Lodge
Situated at treeline (2200m) in the heart of the Esplanade Range, the Meadow Hut is well positioned for a mix of storm skiing and alpine adventure.
The lodge doesn’t have wifi and is a bit on the rustic side, as there are no comfy couches, just a large table and private rooms—but hey, what more do you need? The kitchen is well appointed and the overall layout of the lodge is well thought out. You’ll also have to haul your water. There’s a drying room with plenty of space and the main part of the lodge is heated with wood. It also comes with a caretaker to keep the lodge on the up and up, so you can focus on the skiing and splitboarding. Guests clean off in a wood fired sauna and use outhouses for answering nature’s call.
There are a couple of downsides to Meadow. The first is that most of the storm skiing is down valley and there is significant exposure to overhead hazard on your way back to the lodge. The second is stronger groups may run out of terrain over the course of a week.
Overall Score
Accommodations 3.5
Terrain 3.5
Value 4
Cupola Mountain above Meadow LodgeSentry Lodge
Sentry Lodge is Golden Alpine Holidays’ flagship. It has the most terrain and the nicest accommodations of all the GAH lodges. Placed at treeline, it is easy to tour out the door in any conditions. Sentry features flush toilets, hot showers, running water, a spacious living room, private rooms, a dining area, a stretching space, wifi and a wood fired sauna. The terrain at Sentry is expansive and offers both storm skiing and alpine adventure. You won’t run out of terrain over the course of your week.
A caretaker is also included in the package so you can focus on the riding. There aren’t many downsides to Sentry Lodge except for the lack of glaciated terrain, thus if your seeking out big glaciated alpine terrain, this isn’t the lodge for you.
Overall Score
Accommodations 5
Terrain 4
Value 4.5
Esplanade Powder
Icefall LodgeIf you’re looking for big glaciated alpine terrain in the Canadian Rockies, look not further, Icefall Lodge is it. You’ll feel small at Icefall, very small.
The lodge is big and well thought out. However it is definitely on the rustic side—the cool part is a fair bit of the material was sourced from trees onsite. The lodge is powered by micro hydro and there are private rooms, plenty of space, outhouses, stretching areas and a sizeable kitchen/dining area, which also doubles as the hangout zone. The drying room is substantial with a separate boot/clothes drying room.
The downside to Icefall is the severity of its terrain. If you happen to go there during a significant storm cycle, you will feel hemmed in due to exposure to complex avalanche terrain. The lodge is also built to house large groups, so if you’re looking for a small group experience, be ready to ante up for a large per person cost or look for another lodge.
A new feature Icefall has added is the Icefall Traverse, a hut to hut horseshoe that takes you through some amazing terrain. The tour starts at the Mons Hut and travels across the Lyell Icefield to the Alexandra Cabin, up and over a col to Icefall Lodge and then onto the Rostrum Cabin.![]()
Inside and outside the Lyell Hut
It’s an amazing trip, I guided two trips last year and really enjoyed it. There are some operational pressures, as groups start every day; last year Icefall ran 19 trips back to back. Thus there is no waiting out a storm option to move when it clears up. That’s a bit of a bummer as groups may have to skip going to the Alexandra Cabin if the weather doesn’t cooperate. Last spring was quite stormy and we did most of the trip in a whiteout both times.
Overall Score
Accommodations 4
Terrain 5 (good stability) 2.5 (poor stability)
Value 4
Topping out on Mt. Kemmel
Ice Creek Lodge
Positioned just outside of Valhalla Provincial Park at 1860m, Ice Creek Lodge is in some of the biggest terrain the Kootenays have to offer. Its still the Kootenays though, so the early season snowpack is thin (mid January) and by March you can expect elevated freezing levels and variable conditions. The good thing is the home drainage has primarily north aspect terrain.
The lodge is set up for eight to ten close friends. It’s rustic, bunkhouse style living, with a dormitory sleeping loft and limited hangout space. The main lodge is heated with a wood stove and there is a small drying room that serves as the entryway to the lodge. There’s intermittent, limited, slow wifi, running water at a hand wash station, a rustic bucket shower, outhouses and a rustic wood fired sauna.
There’s plenty of alpine terrain to keep a strong group with good stability busy. However there’s limited amounts of tree skiing and storm skiing. The Valhallas are also a bit short on glaciated terrain, so if you’re seeking out big glaciated terrain, you’ll want to look elsewhere. The price of this lodge is similar to lodges with much nicer accommodations and similar terrain.
Overall Score
Accommodations 3
Terrain 4
Value 3.5
Valhalla Powder
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