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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Park City
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    5,028

    Climbing the grand

    Kicking around climbing the grand with the family (12 and 14 year old girls ) and looking for advice. Definitely want a guide since we’ve never climbed on this level, just sport climbing. Exum is the only service I have an inkling of…others?
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Last Best City in the Last Best Place
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    7,413
    Jackson Hole Mountain Guides has been around a long time. Looks like they are now called The Mountain Guides since they have expanded operations beyond the Tetons. No opinion on which service is better. Have fun, it's a really cool mountain to climb.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
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    9,212
    Only two guides in the park are Exum and JHMG. Both very qualified. Exum camps at the lower saddle and JHMG camp is over under the East Face, so a longer approach for summit day. 12 and 14 is going to be bouncing off the min age limit I would guess. I’ve never gone guided but I’m pretty sure both outfits make you climb a warm up day with them to prepare. So a minimum 3 day deal.

    We have at least one former guide here on the board who may chime in with better beta.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    Upper Left, USA
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    2,160
    12 is pretty young unless they are fairly experienced. Go for it if she is, but also consider waiting a year or two and do the upper exum. It's a much better route than the o.s. and a better way to experience the grand.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    Last Best City in the Last Best Place
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    Quote Originally Posted by Yonder_River View Post
    12 is pretty young unless they are fairly experienced. Go for it if she is, but also consider waiting a year or two and do the upper exum. It's a much better route than the o.s. and a better way to experience the grand.
    Agree the upper Exum is much more enjoyable and aesthetic than the Owens-Spalding. Looks like JHMG actually takes beginners up the Pawnall-Gilkey route, which appears to be right of the OS via a traverse. Probably similar in nature to OS, perhaps slightly more technical.

    OP, the Middle Teton is a cool scramble and would make a worthy non-technical objective for a 12 year old. Early in the season you do want an ice axe. But if the kid is pretty sturdy and not afraid of heights, then I think a guided Grand climb is probably within reach. The guides will let you know, they've seen it all I'm sure.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    19,420
    Brought up a bunch of emotions.

    RIP George.

    https://www.jhnewsandguide.com/news/...0c926b169.html

    I remember sitting around the kitchen table up out of Ridgway over a lunch with the whole family after a great day skiing and climbing ice catching up. I would not hesitate to recommend anyone from Exum, from knowing and climbing with a bunch of their guides over the years. They will totally let you know what is up or not.

    To be clear, we were just fellow climbers that I stopped in to say hello with a partner; I have never been guided in anything, but I can tell you that I trust that org's judgment. It's not like a shitty rafting company.

    https://pdfhost.io/v/kM63neyni_ALP_77_Spring_2022 Pg. 54.
    Is it radix panax notoginseng? - splat
    This is like hanging yourself but the rope breaks. - DTM
    Dude Listen to mtm. He's a marriage counselor at burning man. - subtle plague

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Down on Electric Avenue
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    Hmmm, yeah that's pretty young unless having some mileage on rock and comfy with exposure. Above the upper saddle is airy to say the least. Shimmying the crawl while looking down the Black Ice couloir is a bit of mindfuck.

    But there is a veritable fuckton of options that are safer, easier and rewarding as can be.

    Both Exum and JHMG are top shelf. They have lots of guides and you can try and pair up with someone you mesh with.
    Shout into the JH thread and our resident guides may reach out to steer you.

    Exum 3 day climb involves a pre ascent day usually on the slabs, mini aretes around hidden falls.

    Middle Teton and Teewinot are both easier technically but still pose routefinding and distance hurdles.
    South Teton is pretty much a long walk up.

    Owen-Spaulding is pretty easy and frankly I'd rather go up the short chimneys to the summit than take the ramp traverse towards Pownall-Gilkey.
    This is the spot where Allan Bard fell so it's not a cakewalk.

    If ya just wanna get them into some alpine rock, take a tram and hike out to Cody and back. Easy enough to test some lite skills but still close to help.

    The Tetons can be easy or dangerous really quickly.

    Holla if I can help. I have tons of gear if ya need something and route books for most climbs from here to the city of rocks.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    cordova,AK
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    3,704
    5 and 6 year olds climb the grand. Looks like Exum will go with a 12 year old on a private guided trip. I usually ignore MTM but that is a good link. I had read about the climbs already and enjoyed the article by Gardner.
    off your knees Louie

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    Down on Electric Avenue
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    Fucking kindergarteners all over that rock.

    Like fleas on a hound dog.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Park City
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    Thanks all

    She’s (both) have spent a ton of time in the mountains and sport climb. 14 year old is not a great fan of exposure so might need to think that through a little more. Both are super strong, like crazy strong from gymnastics and life in general.
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
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    Quote Originally Posted by detrusor View Post
    Thanks all

    She’s (both) have spent a ton of time in the mountains and sport climb. 14 year old is not a great fan of exposure so might need to think that through a little more. Both are super strong, like crazy strong from gymnastics and life in general.
    I took my 14 year old and his friend up the grand years ago and it was the exposure that wore them down over the course of the day. There is a long stretch of time where every step counts and that takes a toll on people who aren’t used to it. IMO of course.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    13
    Some friends did it with their 10 year old. But she is a better climber than her parents. I once did a 10 mile 4k vert hike, including some scrambling, with the kid when she was 8 and she talked the whole way while showing no sign of fatigue. I was like "Oh. This is what talent looks like."

    Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    Down on Electric Avenue
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    There are just so many mind blowing lines in the Tetons without getting near the Grand.

    Look at The Jaw in Hanging canyon or even the east face Of Buck Mtn. or Teewinot.

    Here's a vid of the Owen-Spaulding route. Gives a good idea of the exposure zone above the upper saddle.
    Before that is all class 1-4 hiking/scrambling.


  14. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
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    Not Brooklyn
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    8,379
    Or do it like these slackers:


  15. #15
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    Nov 2017
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    Down on Electric Avenue
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    Fucking Kooks right there. That was a record ascent as no one cared to make a speed ascent for the 30 years before. Or maybe ever.

    But 11 days later a climbing guide beat this time by 59 seconds.

    I took 2 days with a 50# pack to the meadows and it was no race, lemme tell ya.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    truckee
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    The Grand by Exum or OS is more a question of endurance and speed than climbing skill. You don't want to be up there in the afternoon.

  17. #17
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    Nov 2017
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    Down on Electric Avenue
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    Idaho climber died yesterday after falling from a chimney on the Owen-Spaulding route.

  18. #18
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    Jan 2009
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    Park City
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    14 year old tore ACL so this is def on hold.
    I rip the groomed on tele gear

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
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    6,769

    Climbing the grand

    Quote Originally Posted by detrusor View Post
    14 year old tore ACL so this is def on hold.
    Oh dude sorry. Hope she heals up quick.
    Last edited by EWG; 07-23-2023 at 09:59 AM.

  20. #20
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    Nov 2017
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    Down on Electric Avenue
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    Damn. That stinks.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Geopolis
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    16,276
    sorry to hear about the little, hope it is a quick heal. when you want to finally do the grand, it'd be wrong to omit the fact that longtime maggot _Aaron_ is a guiding veteran for Exum. Definitely shoot him a pm, great guy.
    j'ai des grands instants de lucididididididididi

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    19,420
    Bump for a loss of a good friend of George Gardner, and a legend in his own right. I'm sure Hacksaw knew him well.

    https://www.ouraynews.com/2023/10/04/jerry-w-roberts/
    Is it radix panax notoginseng? - splat
    This is like hanging yourself but the rope breaks. - DTM
    Dude Listen to mtm. He's a marriage counselor at burning man. - subtle plague

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by MakersTeleMark View Post
    Bump for a loss of a good friend of George Gardner, and a legend in his own right. I'm sure Hacksaw knew him well.

    https://www.ouraynews.com/2023/10/04/jerry-w-roberts/
    RIP. Sad to hear about this. He had a great session on crystals and Red Mtn Pass at his house one night when I took Avy 2 some years ago. Really interesting and nice guy. And a nice obit.

    Not sure why it’s in this thread.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Salida, CO
    Posts
    1,989
    Spent a day with George and Lisa. My ex is great friends with Lisa as they climbed together a lot in early years in the San Juans. Many exploits in scrap books and Lisa is a remarkable metallurgist in Ridgeway, More thread drift

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