New Zealand travel

[MarcusBrody]

Don't overthink it--go and have a good time. Bring a book, it's a long flight.

Maybe things have changed since I was there 20 years ago, but my wife and I were able to travel without making too many plans ahead of time. Very few activities needed to be booked early.

Our thought at that time was that we’d happily move to and live on the South Island (we didn’t spend time on the north island). We have friends in CA (in their 40’s now) that lived there long enough in their 30’s to gain citizenship, and NZ is one of their “exit strategies.” They lived in Dunedin and Wanaka. We have another set of friends (boomers) that moved to Dunedin because of a university job. They were both in their late 50’s. They moved back to the states decade later because they wanted to be closer to their growing family of grandchildren. Have another friend and former coworker who is a researcher in the university in Christchurch. He and his wife had lived in CA for decades, London, and parts Scotland. They seem happily settled. A kiwi coworker living in PDX picked up family and temporarily moved back home to an Auckland suburb when covid shut down pdx school. They’re back in pdx after 2.5 yrs. The coworker is a “city mouse,” though they grew up on a large ranch, and prefers the big cities of CA and the PNW to those in NZ.

Given that we're in the offseason, changing plans and finding places to stay woupdnt be too bad. Really the reason i booked so much ahead of time was that given that we're three people, finding good, cheapish spots was slightly trickier than if it was just my wife and I. I'm a fan of quirky little local motels/holiday parks/hostels, but am now old and soft so i want at least a private room with an ensuite bath. A lot of places only seem to have one or two of those rooms andni like to snag them so we dont end up at the slightly more expensive, slightly "nicer", definitely more boring places. But if we decide we really like a place and want to stay longer or go to a different place we hear about, its not a big deal. Some places are cancelable and if not, im fine with eating a few hundred bucks.

Interesting to hear about your academic friends moving to NZ. I'm a professor rihht now and really like my job, but the NZ higher ed system is not going through its best period right now, so if we really wanted to go, I might have to consider some other professional options.

Ive definitely talked to people - including expatriate New Zealanders - that much prefer the US for its ample urban options. Most, like your friend, are urban people at heart, though. Im really not, so i suspect i'd have been happier than they were.

[Kevo]

Couple other recommends for Melbourne-

You can day trip Great Ocean Road from Melbourne. It's worth the drive- it's some really incredible scenery and you can add on stops in Great Otway National Park.

I did a day road trip where I started by driving to the 12 Apostles (famous spot) where cliffs meet ocean, and then stopped on the way back for a few short hikes in/ around Great Otway. I went to Triplet Falls, Hopetoun Falls, and Beauchamps Falls. I then went to Geelong and went to the National Wool Museum. I'm sure a wool museum sounds lame to the TGR crowd I'm sure, but they have some really great exhibits for anyone interested in Australian pioneer/ frontier history and, by extension, sheep farming. It's got cool stuff for kids too.

There is also some incredibly beautiful wine country to the NE of Melbourne. I've been to wineries in and around the town of Yarra Glenn. That area (the Yarra Valley) gives Napa and Sonoma a run for their money for scenery. The food and wine is pretty solid too.

The Shrine of Remembrance is an ANZAC war memorial in Melbourne. I learned a lot there. It's a special place, worth a visit.

Lastly, you'll be in Melbourne during AFL (Aussie Rules Football) season. Collingwood and Geelong and Richmond are all famous teams in the Melbourne area. Games are fun.

[up an down]

Couple other recommends for Melbourne-

You can day trip Great Ocean Road from Melbourne. It's worth the drive- it's some really incredible scenery and you can add on stops in Great Otway National Park.

I did a day road trip where I started by driving to the 12 Apostles (famous spot) where cliffs meet ocean, and then stopped on the way back for a few short hikes in/ around Great Otway. I went to Triplet Falls, Hopetoun Falls, and Beauchamps Falls. I then went to Geelong and went to the National Wool Museum. I'm sure a wool museum sounds lame to the TGR crowd I'm sure, but they have some really great exhibits for anyone interested in Australian pioneer/ frontier history and, by extension, sheep farming. It's got cool stuff for kids too.

There is also some incredibly beautiful wine country to the NE of Melbourne. I've been to wineries in and around the town of Yarra Glenn. That area (the Yarra Valley) gives Napa and Sonoma a run for their money for scenery. The food and wine is pretty solid too.

The Shrine of Remembrance is an ANZAC war memorial in Melbourne. I learned a lot there. It's a special place, worth a visit.

Lastly, you'll be in Melbourne during AFL (Aussie Rules Football) season. Collingwood and Geelong and Richmond are all famous teams in the Melbourne area. Games are fun.

And Bad Roo lives near Melbourne!

[MarcusBrody]

Couple other recommends for Melbourne-

You can day trip Great Ocean Road from Melbourne. It's worth the drive- it's some really incredible scenery and you can add on stops in Great Otway National Park.

I did a day road trip where I started by driving to the 12 Apostles (famous spot) where cliffs meet ocean, and then stopped on the way back for a few short hikes in/ around Great Otway. I went to Triplet Falls, Hopetoun Falls, and Beauchamps Falls. I then went to Geelong and went to the National Wool Museum. I'm sure a wool museum sounds lame to the TGR crowd I'm sure, but they have some really great exhibits for anyone interested in Australian pioneer/ frontier history and, by extension, sheep farming. It's got cool stuff for kids too.

There is also some incredibly beautiful wine country to the NE of Melbourne. I've been to wineries in and around the town of Yarra Glenn. That area (the Yarra Valley) gives Napa and Sonoma a run for their money for scenery. The food and wine is pretty solid too.

The Shrine of Remembrance is an ANZAC war memorial in Melbourne. I learned a lot there. It's a special place, worth a visit.

Lastly, you'll be in Melbourne during AFL (Aussie Rules Football) season. Collingwood and Geelong and Richmond are all famous teams in the Melbourne area. Games are fun.

We're actually heading out that way immediately upon arrival in Melbourne. It's my 40th birthday and i turned out not to have to present at the conferencw im going there for until later, so i figured id like to spend it somewhere beautiful. We might make it to the 12 Apostles, but we'll at least get as far as Great Otway National park and its environs. It looks really nice.

[Kevo]

We're actually heading out that way immediately upon arrival in Melbourne. It's my 40th birthday and i turned out not to have to present at the conferencw im going there for until later, so i figured id like to spend it somewhere beautiful. We might make it to the 12 Apostles, but we'll at least get as far as Great Otway National park and its environs. It looks really nice.

Nicely done! It sounds like you're doing a great job with trip planning. Great Otway feels very "Jurassic Park" in my recollection. It's a beautiful place. Have a great trip!

[LongShortLong]

With the seven year old, you may need recommendations for the best playgrounds? Maybe with a merry-go-round or other unusual features rarely found in America. Or a tall slide (bring wax paper to make it slide fast).

[MarcusBrody]

Nicely done! It sounds like you're doing a great job with trip planning. Great Otway feels very "Jurassic Park" in my recollection. It's a beautiful place. Have a great trip!

I like trip planning. I'm not even particularly committed to thr plan once we actually start the trip, but i get enjoyment out of thinking of all the possibilities and cool places we could go in the leadup.

With the seven year old, you may need recommendations for the best playgrounds? Maybe with a merry-go-round or other unusual features rarely found in America. Or a tall slide (bring wax paper to make it slide fast).

I recently got a tip for a good one in Whanganui so we will have to check it out! You're right though about playgrounds. Two summers ago we road tripped from Vegas to Portland to PA. The best part of the trip was Eastern OR and then cutting across Idaho. It was just a gorgeous time of year. Rivers and waterfalls were pumping. Everything was green. We saw mountains, moose, a golden eagle. Just a gorgeous trip. My kids favorite part? The playground in downtown Missoula.

[Timberridge]

You'll post up some pictures from your adventures here, I hope?

[MarcusBrody]

Nicely done! It sounds like you're doing a great job with trip planning. Great Otway feels very "Jurassic Park" in my recollection. It's a beautiful place. Have a great trip!

You'll post up some pictures from your adventures here, I hope?

If i can figure out posting pictures from mobile, certainly. I might have to get Tapatalk again, though, as I've never figured it out from my phone browser.

[muted reborn]

Nice! Glad to hear it is already on your itinerary. Freycinet was the highlight of my Tasmania trip. Hobart is worth a visit too. It's a friendly community with some decent restaurants and street food and it's in a very beautiful place geographically. Definitely drive or bike to the top of Mount Wellington while in Hobart.

Also, for wildlife I wish I had visited a sanctuary to see a Tasmanian Devil. Probably worth tracking down that kind of experience, especially with a 7 year old- https://www.discovertasmania.com.au/...ories/wildlife

I wish I visited that sanctuary too.

In Freycinet I recommend hiking to the wineglass viewpoint instead of the wineglass beach, both are probably great though. Don't do the hike in vans like i did, get your kid some hiking shoes and he will be fine. it's steep but with you behind him any 7 year old can do it. And would love to do it, it's fun. Here is looking down, most of the trail is just going up a large rock.


View from the top


Cape huay track is one of the better hikes of my life. It's long and most of it has no shade, ask a local for something similar but shorter unless yer 7 year old is a real trooper, it's only 6 miles but lots of steps. If you don't make it to the end, there is still views like this.


At the end of the cape, but good views are 360 not just one direction


Mountain bike shuttles in Derby are amazing, rental bikes are great - don't know if it's in season though



If you are going by, the lavender fields are worth a stop but not a destination - wait, they aren't in bloom now nevermind


RIP DICK


Mt Wellington above hobart is amazing, you have to go up. I think theres a new bike park around the town now.


Hobart is super cool for food and such, don't shorten your days there, and you can take this boat to the MONA museum which is below ground and wild

Seats on the boat


Lots of cool Landcrusiers to see on the island


Countryside is like driving in England, with similar B+Bs to stay, drink, and eat in


Deserted Beaches on the Northeast side of the island


Also you can ski Mount Mawson but the area isn't open yet, maybe it will be when you get there?

Finally, if you are wondering which snakes are poisonous and which are not while hiking, it's easy to figure out. Every snake on Tasmania is poisonous!!

[MarcusBrody]

Wow, those are some gorgeous pictures. I would love to ride Derby and do the Cape Huay track, but weather might dictate. The Cape Huay is probabaly at the top end of my son's limit, but if it was a nice day i think he could do it. We did a similar hike last weekend (just a bit shorter with a bit more elevation gain). As long as he stays engaged, he basically has infinite energy. If not...we might make it a quarter mile before he's "tired" or "hungry". Possible whale sitings would go a long way to keeping him into it.

[MarcusBrody]

I'm back in the US. It was a great trip. Everything went really smoothly for a trip with a whole lot of parts. NZ rolled out the red carpet for us in terms of weather and we had only one really rainy day, and it was a day we were just traveling. We really couldn't have asked for much better. Australia's weather wasn't quite as perfect, but most of the rain came when we were in Melbourne, which was convenient.

The promised pictures (for some reason TGR doesn't read my picture orientation, anyone know why?):

Part 1, the North Island

We stayed over in Auckland the first night, then drove to Rotorua the second day, taking a detour to see/stop in Tauranga briefly.

My wife, cold in a hooded jacket, my son shirtless and in the water almost immediately:


Off to Rotorua. We spent half a day biking, part of which I rode with my son who declared the smooth, banked Rotorua green/blue trails his favorite ever.


Driving from Rotorua to Whanganui, we passed Mount Doom (Mount Ngauruho). It was friendlier than I expected and had a large rainbow, which I apparently only took landscape oriented photos of. We did the very first approach section of the Tongariro NP Alpine Crossing and even that was pretty beautiful, so I'd love to come back and do the whole thing someday. Afterwards we stopped at a waterfall where they filmed a Gollum scene for LotR.



Edit: Dammit. It's apparently vertical orientation that TGR hates...

[MarcusBrody]

Well at least I can post my Mt. Doom rainbow:

Attachment 464012

[fool]

I don't have much to add except NZ South Island is fantastic.

I'm landing in Christchurch in ~6 hours for two weeks on the South Island - primarily Fiordland and Southland - and two nights in Auckland before coming home. Traveling solo.

1) Is Kepler + MIlford hikes/tramps reasonable in October? (I'm ahead of the Great Walk season, so no hut bookings are required). I'm comfortable in snow - backcountry, etc. - and have done a fair bit of backpacking. I'm planning on checking in with the DOC when I'm there but curious if there are any other thoughts. (Generally the trails seems to be lower elevation than current avalanche hazard but rain/floods seem to be a concern).

2) Any must dos for Fiordland and Queenstown areas? Planning to hike, bike, drink, and generally adventure. Also open to cool museums, Maori culture, etc.

3) Must dos in Auckland? I'm primarily looking at food/beer walking tours, possibly Waiheke island for a day, and maybe a few interesting museums or seeing Maori culture.

Thanks in advance.

[lowsparkco]

I'm landing in Christchurch in ~6 hours for two weeks on the South Island - primarily Fiordland and Southland - and two nights in Auckland before coming home. Traveling solo.

1) Is Kepler + MIlford hikes/tramps reasonable in October? (I'm ahead of the Great Walk season, so no hut bookings are required). I'm comfortable in snow - backcountry, etc. - and have done a fair bit of backpacking. I'm planning on checking in with the DOC when I'm there but curious if there are any other thoughts. (Generally the trails seems to be lower elevation than current avalanche hazard but rain/floods seem to be a concern).

2) Any must dos for Fiordland and Queenstown areas? Planning to hike, bike, drink, and generally adventure. Also open to cool museums, Maori culture, etc.

3) Must dos in Auckland? I'm primarily looking at food/beer walking tours, possibly Waiheke island for a day, and maybe a few interesting museums or seeing Maori culture.

Thanks in advance.

I walked the Kepler Track many years ago. One of the highlights of my trip for sure. If it's snow free and the weather will hold I would absolutely try. Comfortable in snow is different than post holing. I don't know anyone who is pro-post-hole.

I also got one day "spring" fall skiing up on the North Island. Totally worth it to hammer slush if any of the lifts are still turning.

[LongShortLong]

Have a great time! I visited too long ago and opposite season to state any must-do's. Floods are a thing, I got trapped for a day at a hut near Franz Josef. Most creeks have very high suspension bridges, but one was out. Also if you're crossing a snowfield, get off before it cools into an icefield, or carry the right gear. (RIP Psycho).

If you get to Queensland, ride or hike somewhere up to get a view. See, that's what I got - advice you'll figure out yourself. There's too many cool things to see and do. If you have a guidebook (or app?), or spend time at a hostel/backpackers, you'll stumble on plenty of adventures. I also remember visitor centers had good info. Auckland Museum's first floor has Maori/Islander culture exhibits. The hike shuttle schedules did not work for us - instead we hiked halfway out the Routeburn and back. If you're car-less, that's less an issue. Did not go on Milford Sound, but a boat tour on Doubtful Sound was awesome (and a rest day). See - if you miss one thing, there's another. Heard Waiheke is great, did something else instead.

Post a picture or ten!

[seawolf.]

Living in Wanaka now if you need anything while you're down here - just give me a shout. Great time to visit, not too hot, low crowds, and still snow on the peaks.

1. Milford/Kepler will be mostly a rain/wind concern right now. Even if it hasn't rained for a few days, the track will be slick and muddy - it just never fully dries in Fiordland. If you're happy with that, you'll have a great time and hope you get some views. Checking in with DOC is good call, they're very helpful

2. This is way beyond the scope of your message but hope it helps someone else along the way. It's a rainy Saturday here so, here goes.

Mt. Cook: If you hit a clear sky down on your drive down from Chch definitely hike the Hooker Valley Track
- Hooker Valley Track: Might be the best bang for buck, easy 5 mile hike in the country. Busy for that reason
- Mueller Hut: Single overnight 4-5 hrs up. Check the weather, it needs to be clear/not raining or you won't be able to see much. Call the Mt Cook DOC to book Mueller. If it's clear, it'll blow your mind

Queenstown: Touristy but the Remarkables are worth it
- Rest day walk: Kelvin Peninsula Loop: some of the best you'll get of the Remarkables. Nice relaxing walk
- Ben Lomond - popular, but incredible 360 mountain and lake views. Long day hike, 6+ hrs, 4,500'+ vertical
- If you have a tent: Earnslaw Burn - by far #1 favorite hike in New Zealand. Ends at a huge glacier and you can set up camp for a night or two. Do not try to go there and back in one day. It's 5+ hrs of difficult, technical tramping in and 4-5 hrs out.
- Grab a beer at Canyon Brewery and watch the Jetboats whiz up and down Shotover river

Routeburn (Falls Hut):
- This is a Great Walk but you can choose to do the entire 3 night walk or just book a single night. If you do the single night option, book Routeburn Falls Hut, (not Routeburn Flats) and do one night there

Wanaka: the local's Queenstown
- If you choose one hike, I prefer Isthmus Peak (4-5 hr day hike) over the packed Roy's Peak
- Single night hut trip to Brewster Hut if weather permits
- Rainy day activities: Cinema Paradiso or Puzzling World
- 3 Great breweries. Rhyme & Reason or B.Effect have live music going on often
- Cork for cocktails. Almost all the food in Wanaka is great

Milford Sound
- Do the drive, it's worth it. Check out bookme.co.nz for discounted kayak / cruises. The kayak cruise combo is the best bang for your buck.
- Key Summit - another favorite day hike on the drive into Milford. You can actually camp up there if you backpack up, continue past where all the tourists stop at the summit and pitch it at least 50-100m off the track

If you need more details, directions, etc on any - just let me know. Hope you enjoy the 8th wonder of the world

[fool]

I walked the Kepler Track many years ago. One of the highlights of my trip for sure. If it's snow free and the weather will hold I would absolutely try. Comfortable in snow is different than post holing. I don't know anyone who is pro-post-hole.

Hah - very true. I guess I was just looking to understand if the avy danger was real this late in the season or if it was a very cautious person just sharing their concerns. Agreed - I don't want to post hole for days on end. (And I do want to move somewhat quick). Thanks, and thanks LSL.

Living in Wanaka now if you need anything while you're down here - just give me a shout. Great time to visit, not too hot, low crowds, and still snow on the peaks.

1. Milford/Kepler will be mostly a rain/wind concern right now. Even if it hasn't rained for a few days, the track will be slick and muddy - it just never fully dries in Fiordland. If you're happy with that, you'll have a great time and hope you get some views. Checking in with DOC is good call, they're very helpful

2. This is way beyond the scope of your message but hope it helps someone else along the way. It's a rainy Saturday here so, here goes.

Mt. Cook: If you hit a clear sky down on your drive down from Chch definitely hike the Hooker Valley Track
- Hooker Valley Track: Might be the best bang for buck, easy 5 mile hike in the country. Busy for that reason
- Mueller Hut: Single overnight 4-5 hrs up. Check the weather, it needs to be clear/not raining or you won't be able to see much. Call the Mt Cook DOC to book Mueller. If it's clear, it'll blow your mind

Queenstown: Touristy but the Remarkables are worth it
- Rest day walk: Kelvin Peninsula Loop: some of the best you'll get of the Remarkables. Nice relaxing walk
- Ben Lomond - popular, but incredible 360 mountain and lake views. Long day hike, 6+ hrs, 4,500'+ vertical
- If you have a tent: Earnslaw Burn - by far #1 favorite hike in New Zealand. Ends at a huge glacier and you can set up camp for a night or two. Do not try to go there and back in one day. It's 5+ hrs of difficult, technical tramping in and 4-5 hrs out.
- Grab a beer at Canyon Brewery and watch the Jetboats whiz up and down Shotover river

Routeburn (Falls Hut):
- This is a Great Walk but you can choose to do the entire 3 night walk or just book a single night. If you do the single night option, book Routeburn Falls Hut, (not Routeburn Flats) and do one night there

Wanaka: the local's Queenstown
- If you choose one hike, I prefer Isthmus Peak (4-5 hr day hike) over the packed Roy's Peak
- Single night hut trip to Brewster Hut if weather permits
- Rainy day activities: Cinema Paradiso or Puzzling World
- 3 Great breweries. Rhyme & Reason or B.Effect have live music going on often
- Cork for cocktails. Almost all the food in Wanaka is great

Milford Sound
- Do the drive, it's worth it. Check out bookme.co.nz for discounted kayak / cruises. The kayak cruise combo is the best bang for your buck.
- Key Summit - another favorite day hike on the drive into Milford. You can actually camp up there if you backpack up, continue past where all the tourists stop at the summit and pitch it at least 50-100m off the track

If you need more details, directions, etc on any - just let me know. Hope you enjoy the 8th wonder of the world

Thanks, seawolf. Awesome info! I’ll DM you my number - would love to buy you a beer for all the great beta. I’m solo, tentless (but have a bag for the huts), and have a car. Few random follow ups:

1. Best mapping/trails app? Gaia maps look decent here and Trail Run Project also has a few, but not all trails.
2. Routeburn - any reason to not consider doing it in a day? Looks doable but maybe I do one night at Routeburn Falls hut.
3. Re: Milford/Kepler, even in its best conditions, is it hard to move quickly on the muddy terrain? Was considering doing it in a little over two days with the plan to move quickly/long. I just got to Lake Tekapo and it’s definitely been windy. I heard from someone at the airport that Milford/Kepler was dry-ish but I’m taking that with a large grain of salt.

Was planning on the Milford sound boat/kayak but did not know about bookme - will check it out. Thanks again for the thorough help!

[BFD]

my son is down there now on a work visa. He is feeding fish on a farm in Twizel. I don't think they are having the best snow year and the weather has been making things difficult. did post a couple of nice photos.


anyway if you find yourself in Twizel and want a running partner he is usually game.

[Meadow Skipper]

So, I recently started thinking about a fly fishing trip to NZ this next December, maybe around 12/18 - 12/26. The thought was something like a few days at a lodge nearby a nice stream. Anyone done something like this? Stories, advice, connections? I guess I’d also be interested in day trips from town, I guess out of Queenstown or Wanaka?

[fool]

Pics from a beautiful (and windy) Lake Tekapo hike. In Queenstown now and checking conditions on the tracks given recent snow/rain.

Wolf - the app is failing to PM you. If you can, send me a PM and we can exchange numbers. If you’re around, beers when I head north again.

Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[MarcusBrody]

I realized that I got frustrated with my photos fiipping and didn't post much from the trip that inspired this thread.

Wellington was a great city. We got abnormally nice weather and met up with a former student of mine who showed us around. My 7 year old son wanted to dance and a Latin American bar/restaurant turned on the stage lights for him so he could throw down. Can't fault the hospitality.


We next crossed between the North and South Island on the Interislander ferry. It was really nice and we had good weather. Our next stop was Nelson, which in the back of my mind was the place I was most interested in as a potential relocation spot. The city itself isn't stunning, but it's got a good feel, a nice city beach, and awesome mountain biking. This is from the top of Te Ara Koa. Great trail, but after a 4000 ft climb from the rental shop in town (including one detour/descent due to questionable route finding), I could have used a few shorter descents.


The really gorgeous stuff was on either side of Nelson, though. this is the Cable Bay walk.


Which is some of the most gorgeous coastline you'll ever see on top of its day job as a sheep pasture.

[MarcusBrody]

Then on the other of Nelson you have Kaiteriteri, a beautiful little tourist town with a really good flying fox (zipline)


and Abel Tasman National Park



Cape Farewell wasn't bad either.

[MarcusBrody]

Then on to Kaikoura, which was one of the most visually dramatic place I've ever been.




It wasn't the season for dolphins, so the kayak tour company asked us if we wanted to just go later in the day when it was warmer. We agreed and my wife and son slept in while I went on a little hike (and encountered the seal above). Then we got a call that dolphins had been sighted. I had to run back and drag my family out of bed. Was it worth it? Oh yes.



We left Kaikoura and went to Christchurch, which was also nice, but not nearly as spectacular as Kaikoura had been. From there, we went onto Melbourne, Great Otway National Park, and a quick loop around Tasmania. All of those spots were also great, but none as visually arresting as the high points of NZ.

[lowsparkco]

Biggest wave and longest ride I've ever caught on a surf board was at Kaikoura.