Educate me on bases

[mrkbrnblm]

Every 3 days? Ski days or days days... I don't know anyone who waxes every three days am I doing it all wrong?

Ski days, not days days... we're not that​ crazy.

[singlesline]

My Dynastar M-Free 118 bases felt fast AF this weekend at Bridger. Maybe it is because they are red?

I wouldn't expect it from a colored base with big lettering, but I was absolutely blowing past people on Pierre's Return. I don't think a single person passed me all weekend and I almost never skated.

Wax was just Toko universal that had 1-2 days on it before the trip, so by sunday afternoon we're talking 3-4 days and they were still zooming. Base has a limited fine texture--I'm assuming it is the stock bottom but I bought them used (in pristine shape) so it is possible the original owner had them ground.

[Alpinord]

.......so it is possible the original owner had them ground.

Or had them well seasoned with previous waxing/ski cycles.

[stuckathuntermtn]

I find a good base structure can really make a big difference. Not just in speed, but float, surf, etc.

[Alpinord]

I find a good base structure can really make a big difference. Not just in speed, but float, surf, etc.

And turns, even in powder. Proper structure (machine or hand) coupled with waxing cycles is where the rubber meets the road. After all the money people spend to go skiing, it amazes me people don’t spend a little more time and focus trying to dial this in better.

When I started really analyzing different waxes and hand structuring (planer and sand paper), I used a pair of skis for testing. After a season or two of trying different structures, waxes and some additives on various snows and temps, I ended up with super slick skis. These ‘well seasoned’ skis were dangerous just standing on them without moving.[emoji15]


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[Alpinord]

I find a good base structure can really make a big difference. Not just in speed, but float, surf, etc.

And turns, even in powder. Proper structure (machine or hand) coupled with waxing cycles is where the rubber meets the road. After all the money people spend to go skiing, it amazes me people don’t spend a little more time and focus trying to dial this in better.

When I started really analyzing different waxes and hand structuring (planer and sand paper), I used a pair of skis for testing. After a season or two of trying different structures, waxes and some additives on various snows and temps, I ended up with super slick skis. These ‘well seasoned’ skis were dangerous just standing on them without moving.[emoji15]


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[chewski]

I have internalized some long ago read statement that oxidized or "base burned" ptex will no longer take up wax until refreshed with a grind. Any truth to this?

[Alpinord]

I have internalized some long ago read statement that oxidized or "base burned" ptex will no longer take up wax until refreshed with a grind. Any truth to this?

Think of plastic bases as preparing weathered wood or rusted metal for a stain or paint. It won't take a new finish (wax) well without removing the degraded outer layer.

[Mofro261]

I have internalized some long ago read statement that oxidized or "base burned" ptex will no longer take up wax until refreshed with a grind. Any truth to this?

No need to base grind, you can remove the surface oxidation/base burn with a few passes of a 3M alu-oxide fibertex pad (purple).

I find base structure much more important for warm/damp snow than cold/dry but ymmv.

[Alpinord]

No need to base grind, you can remove the surface oxidation/base burn with a few passes of a 3M alu-oxide fibertex pad (purple).

I find base structure much more important for warm/damp snow than cold/dry but ymmv.

Good point. More accurately, depends on how bad the burn. A touch up may be all you need. A good brushing might help. A grind or hand structuring if it’s real bad.

FWIW, Silicon carbide sand paper cuts plastic cleaner than aluminum oxide. It’s a good time to make repairs prior.

More aggressive structuring for spring reduces suction considerably. As a cheat, rather than reducing aggressive structure during wide temp swings, you might try ‘filling in’ the structure with a hard green and not brush it all out after scraping.

Edit: add’l info

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[allmountainsnowskating]

I can't really feel the difference between extruded and sintered bases on skis, but on Snowskate, GODDAM does it make a difference

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