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  1. #1
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    Base Bevels Beyond 1 Degree

    Saw a bit of discussion about this in the Dynastar thread (starting here) and was curious to see how many people do this.

    Do you bevel your base edges beyond 1 degree (and what guide do you use)?
    Do you bevel the whole edge or just certain sections?
    Do you increase the side bevel to compensate for loss of acuteness?

  2. #2
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    If you have a base bevel greater than 1 degree, the skis will not hook up before the hell line, basically just slide. At the end of the turn they will carve ok.
    But very insecure feeling on ice at the beginning of the turn .

    Sent from my moto g 5G using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    I only do it on my fattest skis where I don't care about edge hold on ice.

    I have done it to the entire edge, and have also done it just to the tips and tails of skis that were very slightly concave in that area... trying to offset that concavity with a little more loose an edge. It worked well.

    Sent from my SM-A536W using Tapatalk
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by rod9301 View Post
    If you have a base bevel greater than 1 degree, the skis will not hook up before the hell line, basically just slide. At the end of the turn they will carve ok.
    But very insecure feeling on ice at the beginning of the turn .

    Sent from my moto g 5G using Tapatalk
    I really don't want to derail a third thread, as this guy is asking a genuine question and it sounds like you, unlike others with opinions on base bevel, have actually tried it at least. But this is sooo outside the realm of base bevel in my experience. This sounds seriously like:

    1.) a ski that doesn't bite well at all regardless of tune

    2.) edges that are dull AF regardless of edge angles

    3.) glare ice the likes of which I have never seen

    4.) not being able to tip a ski over

    I don't know you and for all i know you're a better skier than me, but this is an extreme statement in my opinion. All i've ever found base bevel to do was mitigate edge catching and make split second differences in timing. Nothing more. Nothing less.

    But the OP already knows what I think of base bevels, so carry on

  5. #5
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    OP- I run .75 to 2 degrees on my base depending on ski and application. .75 will engage faster. 2 degree allows the ski to pivot without thought. I run a 1.5 base bevel on both my daily drivers. It’s more demanding and you need higher edge angles for better grip but both pairs don’t act right without that much bevel.


    if you are getting bevel anal, you better find a good shop with a good manual grinder, those robots are useless unless the operator is really taking their time. Getting skis flat sucks on these new grinders.

    rod- that’s crap. I’ve never had problems railing carves with a 1.5 base bevel. It’s possible you just suck.

  6. #6
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    I'm 47. So only kinda old by TRG standards. But I've watched the ski shape revolution happen over the last 25 years. I've always wondered why bevels from the factory are maybe the only thing that has never changed.

    Then again, a 20 meter radius is still a 20 meter radius. So, maybe I'm thinking too much.

    But again, DPS tried the Spoon. Atomic tried deep bevels on their tips and tails. I like a looser bevel on my reverse camber Rens.

    I think it's a fun trial. But I also think you're going to dig a rabbit hole once you get too funky. After all, skis are still long pieces of wood on our feet. That design element hasn't changed for a few hundred years.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by chewski View Post
    All i've ever found base bevel to do was mitigate edge catching and make split second differences in timing. Nothing more. Nothing less
    Base bevel determines engagement, that's about it. I've touched on this before but gave up since many on the board still want to detune like it's 1986, but increasing the base bevel in certain areas to change the characteristics of how a ski engages with the snow is far more beneficial than rounding the edge.

    Racers have been doing this for a long time, with higher base bevels at the ends of the ski to allow for a smoother transition in and out of the turn, and flatter base bevels underfoot to increase bite and overall edge retention. A big cross section of WCers will run 0.5 base bevel on the tips and tails of their SL skis, and 0 underfoot, or .75-0.5-.75, since the ski is almost always on edge, and needs absolute grip first and foremost. I'm not saying skis are fun to ski that way, but they're effective for SL where milliseconds mean staying on line or DNF.

    Examples from my quiver:

    Apropos for the D* thread, on my Dynastar LP105: flat, heavily cambered tail gets 1.5 base bevel through the last ~6" of the ski, allowing the tail to shmear in tight stuff, but not reducing overall grip enough to change its hard snow performance so you can still shred groomers and shut it down when you have to. That way it's looser when I need to let the tail slide, but I don't lose any of the grip at the end of the turn that I would if it was simply detuned.

    My Movement Super Turbo has a massive, minimally tapered rockered tip, so it gets 1.5 base bevel from the contact point forward, and the taper is detuned to minimize deflection in chop. Same with my Fischer Ranger 108 Ti.

    It's actually really easy to create and blend in a variable base bevel, takes less effort and is often more effective than just detuning. Plus it's reversible with a light grind.
    Last edited by ZomblibulaX; 01-20-2023 at 09:50 AM. Reason: Language

  8. #8
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    I go 1.5 on skis 100mm and wider, 1.0 on narrower.

    Race skis get more complicated

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by chewski View Post
    I really don't want to derail a third thread, as this guy is asking a genuine question and it sounds like you, unlike others with opinions on base bevel, have actually tried it at least. But this is sooo outside the realm of base bevel in my experience. This sounds seriously like:

    1.) a ski that doesn't bite well at all regardless of tune

    2.) edges that are dull AF regardless of edge angles

    3.) glare ice the likes of which I have never seen

    4.) not being able to tip a ski over

    I don't know you and for all i know you're a better skier than me, but this is an extreme statement in my opinion. All i've ever found base bevel to do was mitigate edge catching and make split second differences in timing. Nothing more. Nothing less.

    But the OP already knows what I think of base bevels, so carry on
    Nope, none of the above.

    Sent from my moto g 5G using Tapatalk

  10. #10
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    And i didn't try it on purpose. A shop did this, tuning my skis. When i skied with them i immediately noticed something was wrong in the upper part of the turn.

    I then measured the base bevel angle and it was 1.5 instead of the 1 that i asked for.

    Ended up selling my skis.

    Sent from my moto g 5G using Tapatalk

  11. #11
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    Sorry they screwed up your skis. I honestly bet they screwed up your skis, though. Like badly. I run high base bevels for their benefits off grommed, but here are just some examples of how little they have impacted my groomer skiing.

    Bodacious with 2* base, 32m radius and almost reverse camber Click image for larger version. 

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    Kastle fx104 with 1.5* base
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    Devestators with 2* base and full reverse camber
    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #12
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    I'm one of those weirdos who tunes the bevels to the manufacturer's rec. under the assumption that they have some reasoning behind it. Never really noticed it not working for me.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by ZomblibulaX View Post
    It's actually really easy to create and blend in a variable base bevel, takes less effort and is often more effective than just detuning. Plus it's reversible with a light grind.
    For blending the bevels after filing, all you do is rub the transition area with a diamond stone right? Or is there a better way to do it?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by chewski View Post
    Sorry they screwed up your skis. I honestly bet they screwed up your skis, though. Like badly. I run high base bevels for their benefits off grommed, but here are just some examples of how little they have impacted my groomer skiing.

    Bodacious with 2* base, 32m radius and almost reverse camber Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	443712
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Kastle fx104 with 1.5* base
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Devestators with 2* base and full reverse camber
    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	101 
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    But what do you think about powder skirts?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by DumbIdeasOnly View Post
    But what do you think about powder skirts?
    When you drag your poles that much you need a powder skirt

  16. #16
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    I followed SoVT Joeys advice and put 2/1 on a few of my black crows and they became new skis basically.

    Given the response to a simple change Iíll continue to fuck with bevels before I start messing with mount points tbh


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by chewski View Post
    Sorry they screwed up your skis. I honestly bet they screwed up your skis, though. Like badly. I run high base bevels for their benefits off grommed, but here are just some examples of how little they have impacted my groomer skiing.

    Bodacious with 2* base, 32m radius and almost reverse camber Click image for larger version. 

Name:	EF046672-BE5C-45C2-BEF2-3D7824A08E04.jpeg 
Views:	96 
Size:	396.6 KB 
ID:	443712
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	9325DC0F-AB40-4D76-8166-D678D0E26C4D.jpeg 
Views:	109 
Size:	440.6 KB 
ID:	443713

    Kastle fx104 with 1.5* base
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	3054FAC9-34D3-4EC9-A6AC-A852CC05F43C.jpeg 
Views:	111 
Size:	323.4 KB 
ID:	443714
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Name:	D64C2780-B0BE-4C4C-9E28-0E91CFB72543.jpeg 
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ID:	443715

    Devestators with 2* base and full reverse camber
    Click image for larger version. 

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Views:	101 
Size:	179.4 KB 
ID:	443717
    Click image for larger version. 

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    you really are not that good and are using your inside ski as an in rigger.

    With that said I use 1.5 on some of my wider ski and they still carve well on ice and eastern firm snow.

    Rod do you have video of yours skiing?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushwacka View Post
    you really are not that good and are using your inside ski as an in rigger.

    With that said I use 1.5 on some of my wider ski and they still carve well on ice and eastern firm snow.

    Rod do you have video of yours skiing?
    Itís probably because his boots are too stiff and he canít flex his ankles


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stuntmonkey View Post
    I followed SoVT Joeys advice and put 2/1 on a few of my black crows and they became new skis basically.

    Given the response to a simple change Iíll continue to fuck with bevels before I start messing with mount points tbh


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    That's an interesting idea on how to check a skis performance without a re-drill... nice.

    Sent from my SM-A536W using Tapatalk
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  20. #20
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    Feb 2005
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    Quote Originally Posted by chewski View Post
    Sorry they screwed up your skis. I honestly bet they screwed up your skis, though. Like badly. I run high base bevels for their benefits off grommed, but here are just some examples of how little they have impacted my groomer skiing.

    Bodacious with 2* base, 32m radius and almost reverse camber Click image for larger version. 

Name:	EF046672-BE5C-45C2-BEF2-3D7824A08E04.jpeg 
Views:	96 
Size:	396.6 KB 
ID:	443712
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	9325DC0F-AB40-4D76-8166-D678D0E26C4D.jpeg 
Views:	109 
Size:	440.6 KB 
ID:	443713

    Kastle fx104 with 1.5* base
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	3054FAC9-34D3-4EC9-A6AC-A852CC05F43C.jpeg 
Views:	111 
Size:	323.4 KB 
ID:	443714
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	D64C2780-B0BE-4C4C-9E28-0E91CFB72543.jpeg 
Views:	103 
Size:	534.8 KB 
ID:	443715

    Devestators with 2* base and full reverse camber
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	740217F1-D88B-4EF8-97F4-10D6E0402C4B.jpeg 
Views:	101 
Size:	179.4 KB 
ID:	443717
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	3C0D7B7D-CA32-4FE8-AD6D-EB8E3BEF674B.jpeg 
Views:	101 
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ID:	443720
    You have a bizarre body position while turning.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushwacka View Post
    you really are not that good and are using your inside ski as an in rigger.

    With that said I use 1.5 on some of my wider ski and they still carve well on ice and eastern firm snow.

    Rod do you have video of yours skiing?

    Yes!!!! Thanks for stopping by!

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by halliday View Post
    You have a bizarre body position while turning.

    Thatís for sure.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bushwacka View Post
    you really are not that good and are using your inside ski as an in rigger.

    With that said I use 1.5 on some of my wider ski and they still carve well on ice and eastern firm snow.

    Rod do you have video of yours skiing?
    I definitely am not a rockstar by tgr standards. The mags i've ridden with were better than me. But it's still possible to get most any ski up on edge and to bite

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by halliday View Post
    You have a bizarre body position while turning.
    Probably. I do not have any formal training and am open to pointers

  25. #25
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    more ankle flex needed.




    fact.

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