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Thread: 3D Printing for outdoor nerds
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11-01-2022, 12:21 PM #26Registered User
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Drop in jig inserts, I dont think 3d printed parts should be used anything safety related.
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11-01-2022, 12:43 PM #27
Wow, a ton to unpack here:
I wouldnt trust skin tips to be printed, I have done some tails though:
https://www.printables.com/model/194...skin-tail-clip
Yeah there stuff is surprisingly good, crow and I should have a drivetrain review on the site soon, with a ZTTO branded cassette which surprisingly does not suck...
@Cy - I'll shoot you a message as its hard to visualize without images/sketches/pictures. Word on the street is that you can draw...
For everyone else, I am fixing to do some toe shims for radicals and rad rotations, anyone else fixing for a different clamp shim?"Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds
www.experiencedgear.net
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11-01-2022, 12:45 PM #28
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11-01-2022, 03:36 PM #29
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11-01-2022, 03:51 PM #30
Definitely do not want just any type of plastic that is additive printed. It simply wont hold up to the force of self arrest at a high enough tolerance to be considered safe. I would maybe consider ABS, but that is a very loose maybe.
Printing a part, building a mold, pouring metal might be an option. That said, you may also find a readily available part for your need like an all metal bicycle handle bar end cap that has a screw thread pitch and width that matches the whippet threading.
I too have a couple of those whippets. My first one failed in a self arrest (the rivets holding the grip on blew out). BD offered to replace it but never sent me the warranty credit and when I left the position I had where I was given a pro-deal, the customer service conversation went with that email account. I would also consider buying something with a UL head that is pop-riveted on and remove that rivet, then fashion a new all metal receiver that is integral to the new pole, throw a solid pin in the rivet hole, and identify a no/low fail pin keeper solution depending on how you fabricate/fashion the pole (maybe a longer pole for one hand with the grip shifted down to expose the pole material?Someone once told me that I ski like a Scandinavian angel.
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11-02-2022, 10:32 AM #31
Good to know, alfajores, rfconroy, and Melee. My previous 3D printing experience was over 8 years ago at this point, and I'm sure the tech has come long way. Is the biggest reason people don't print ABS the fumes?
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11-02-2022, 10:47 AM #32
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11-03-2022, 09:44 AM #33
Fumes and temperature management. Some printers do not extrude at hot enough temperatures and many beds cannot support the ABS without warping because they heat unevenly. Lots to consider with ABS and it is simply out of the realm of most printer set ups. Needing to enclose the printer and set up environmental temperature management might make more sense for a MakerBot or similar.
Someone once told me that I ski like a Scandinavian angel.
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11-17-2022, 06:29 PM #34Registered User
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Check out this article from WildSnow if you haven't already seen it: https://www.wildsnow.com/24067/black...et-review-mod/
May be helpful for the reverse engineering. Looks like it's less about the handle and more about the shaft with threaded rod.
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11-18-2022, 11:50 AM #35
Seen it, and a good reminder I need to work on this...
"Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds
www.experiencedgear.net
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11-21-2022, 09:40 AM #36Registered User
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How about a rotobrush holder? The manufactured ones are crazy expensive for what seems like a pretty basic device.
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11-21-2022, 12:47 PM #37
That should be pretty straightforward. You would need to get yourself some dimensions and could probably build out your design with calipers and free software in a couple days time! Just may sure that nothing you print is in contact with moving parts or else you will want to design for inserted bushings.
Someone once told me that I ski like a Scandinavian angel.
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11-21-2022, 01:35 PM #38
My friend wants to know what a rotobrush holder is, got any links...
"Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds
www.experiencedgear.net
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11-21-2022, 03:26 PM #39
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11-22-2022, 12:16 AM #40
Roto brushes and the handles + dust shields: https://www.racewax.com/tuning-tools/roto-brushes/
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11-27-2022, 10:35 AM #41
Oh just had an idea here: custom freeride spacer type contraptions. The ATK one is obviously super nice but even the "universal" one doesn't work for bindings that keep the boot really close to the ski (I'm thinking specifically of the Trofeo).
Some people put plastic blocks down under the heel to create a spacer, but since it doesn't slide side to side like the ATK spacer this likely changes release characteristics.
This would definitely be a little bit of a project but might be cool to make a lower profile freeride spacer that does slide and that can have the height adjusted to a specific setup.
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11-27-2022, 12:55 PM #42"Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds
www.experiencedgear.net
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11-29-2022, 07:33 PM #43
There’s a discussion about this in the Lotus thread and someone had a great solution. In lieu of a sliding AFD he uses a layer of super slippery slip tape on top of a DIY freeride spacer, recreating the teflon style AFD surface.
https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...88#post6737788
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11-29-2022, 09:32 PM #44Registered User
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Sick, thanks man. If you post it then I’ll print and test sometime soon as long as I can find screws long enough.
On the screw point - SkiMo says stock Rads use 19mm toe screws, is that right? Just asking cause that’s a damn long flat head. I didn’t think the toe was that high but maybe it is (skis are not near me right now). I guess I can put inserts in and just use 25mm M5 screws unless someone has a better idea.
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11-29-2022, 10:21 PM #45
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11-30-2022, 03:03 AM #46Registered User
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12-12-2022, 11:59 AM #47
Has anyone printed their own insoles? There's a website that lets you design orthotics based off an STL of your foot, which you can use an iPhone to scan if you don't have your own 3d scanner. Would be curious to see how well PLA holds up to skiing, but also just general footwear uses.
http://gensole.com/
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12-12-2022, 12:06 PM #48
That is cool. Either on a budget or for kids that grow too fast.
PLA should be fine. It flexes but doesn’t break down. And the infill can also control flex and stiffness. But for alpine I think PETG would be more like a posted or cork footbed.
The examples they show seem like walking or running orthotics.
But.
How do you get an STL that’s accurate?
There’s nothing I saw there that tells you
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12-12-2022, 12:36 PM #49
Good call on the infill.
For accuracy there's an instructables page here that suggests casting a model using clay or play-dough, but then they use a 3d scanning app to just create the model later. https://www.instructables.com/3D-Pri...DIY-Orthotics/
Seems like there's just going to be some margin of error with any 3d scanning. But at least you can make changes and just print another? I suppose this could also work for making tweaks on a stock design
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12-12-2022, 12:37 PM #50
Thanks for the link. I've been thinking about printing some insoles, wedges &/or cants. I'll study this later. I've been thinking that one approach was to draw them like a topographic map from an impression, benchmark elevation and a grid system. With a material like that for the Foot Dynamics impression kit or even plaster of paris or something.
If you printed the insoles solid out of PETG, you can still sand it to fine tune them.Best regards, Terry
(Direct Contact is best vs PMs)
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