Best Method for Using Leashes on AT Bindings?

[abcdethan]

I decided instead of buying a new lighter setup I'm going to take the brakes of my MTN bindings off my skis. My daily driver boot, the Fischer Transalp Pro, doesn't have a dedicated D-Ring so I wanted to know optimal ways backcountry skiers use their leashes and where they attach them on the boot. I am debating in installing a D-Ring near the toe or getting a longer leash and wrapping it around the boot like a girth hitch. What ways have other skiers found the most efficient in using leashes?

[fleaches]

Only leashes I have used are the B and D ones, which just wrap around your ankle. http://www.bndskigear.com/skileash.html

Big benefit is that you can put them on well before you click into skis, so it's pretty much impossible to lose a ski when transitioning in a sketchy place after a boot pack.

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[ASmileyFace]

A piece of 3mm cord has worked well for me.

[Benneke10]

A piece of 3mm cord has worked well for me.

I'm thinking about doing this. What kind of cord do you recommend? What kind of clip do you use?

[PNWbrit]

What ways have other skiers found the most efficient in using leashes?

Not using them is best.

[rfconroy]

Clip into that cable - That's what I believe most people running a Hoji, Fischer, and Maestrale are doing.

Big Caveat, in big crashes you run the risk of pulling the buckle off the boot.....I may or may not have done that on a pair of boots before, so personally, look for a leash clip that can yield before it does that - the newer G3 leashes work well for that.

[ASmileyFace]

I'm thinking about doing this. What kind of cord do you recommend? What kind of clip do you use?

I cut about 8" of some sort of 3mm climbing accessory cord. Tied it on to the lowest buckle of my Zero G Pro Tours. I think I used a water knot but can't remember exactly. The breaking strength is around 1.5kn so theoretically they would break off in a bad tumble or avalanche.

I have G3 coil leashes on both my pairs since I was able to get them for free. I like that the coil keeps the leash nice an tight without restricting movement and the carabiner is easy to clip on the cord with gloves on. I'm sure there are other leashes that work just as well.

[alfajores]

Definitely focus on using leashes that will break away in a crash. You want them to keep those skis when transitioning, but let them fall away when you have a catastrophic crash.

I use the cable for my Hoji's with the clip, but have had a ton of declipped leashes and will be looking for a better leash moving forward.

On yours, a best bet would be to pop rivet a d-ring under the c-clip here. Having it leash on the outside of the boot has been best for me and will have less unintentional releases while skiing.

[alfajores]

https://www.wildsnow.com/28594/bindi...-ring-install/

[Wes Mantooth]

I've used the short ones with a loop tied to a buckle on my boot. Not the most ideal but never had issues with it. I much prefer the longer leashes like B&D or Plum that you can wrap around your boot, with the huge advantage of B&D being that they'll shear off in a slide which is the biggest risk of using leashes instead of brakes

I don't care much about weight but think I still prefer leashes since brakes on pin bindings have never worked well for me, but it's a constant dilemma

[adrenalated]

X whatever on 3mm cord. The kind that you get at any climbing shop. I just tie a small loop around the bottom buckle and clip the leash to that.

As far as when to use them - you need to balance the risk of having an anchor attached to you in an avalanche vs. the risk of losing a ski and stranding yourself (whether that be from lack of floatation or from being in steep and difficult terrain). For me, that means no leashes most of the winter and leashes on most of spring when I'm skiing steeper, more consequential lines and have high confidence in stability.

[ktoor]

i use a zip tie on my backlands and theyve worked great for three seasons. originally did this as the g3 leash wasnt long enough to reach the d-ring. but now even with my longer plum leashes its just so much easier to clip/unclip when needed.

[SB]

Bnd ftw!

http://www.bndskigear.com/bndimages/...hdisplay80.jpg

[Bronco]

Spin on a key ring

[XXX-er]

I've alwasy wondered what the release value of a split ring is ?

I have used and still have/ like the BnD leashes, i think they were good, the leash just loops around the boot and clips to the binding but honestly I would rather just step into a binding with brakes

you want to mess with the guide just drop that ski in a place where you can not drop a ski and watch him freak out

[Bronco]

I've alwasy wondered what the release value of a split ring is ?

I'd guess 25-30 lbs. I don't want much more force than that on my old knees.

[mrkbrnblm]

I'd guess 25-30 lbs. I don't want much more force than that on my old knees.

I used to use split rings for the "fuse", but kept breaking them whenever I had a big fall where skis came off. The nice thing about the split rings is that they typically stretch out before breaking entirely, so you have some warning that you need to replace them before they fail entirely. Now I just use a standard zip tie as the fuse and clip leashes directly to the zip tie loop. Seems to work fine, and they do break in a big enough crash. The B&D fuses are probably one step better, but more difficult and expensive to procure.

I'm always going back and forth on the leash vs. brakes debate... I use both, and they both suck. Leashes are one more thing to pfaf with and a potential danger in certain conditions, but they have helped me avoid losing a ski (or spending tons of time probing for a lost ski). Brakes are faster and easier and safer in terms of release, but good luck if you crash and lose a ski. They're also heavy AF. It's a lose-lose no matter which way you go. I should probably just focus on crashing less...

[galibier_numero_un]

Split rings tend to stretch somewhere in the 25 to 40 Lb. range, depending on the ring.

BTW, touring brakes are not ungodly heavy. My ATK brakes are in the 40-ish gram range, so I look at the leash vs. brake debate for reasons other than weight.

Since posting to the thread below, I've made a few changes:

• I switched to my Plum leashes (from B&D) and use a pair of cable ties for the fuse. I can't visualize replacing one of those B&D links in the field, with cold numb fingertips.
• A pair of cable ties has about an 80 Lb. breaking strength - this from a "very scientific" bounce test on a pull up bar ;-)
• I also raised the attachment point on the boot, by threading the cable ties through/around the power strap.

https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...50#post5940350
One thing about the B&D leashes - when the temperature is below freezing, the coil has a memory. When it's stretched out, it doesn't fully recover until it warms up. So, if you think you can stretch them out to 5-6 feet and have them recover to a nice, tidy length, you're in for a surprise, unless it's Springtime ;-)

... Thom

[XXX-er]

The BnD plastic link/ split rings/ aluminium deraillier hangers/ your ski binding are all designed TO break instead some thing you don't want to break