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  1. #26
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    865
    Going to put this together this weekend. I've used many a 3dp jig for mounts but nothing this plug and play.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Apr 2022
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    Seattle Area
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    Quote Originally Posted by fleaches View Post
    Thanks for posting this, I spent the last couple of weeks slowly printing parts for my own

    Attachment 435312

    I struggled a little to get the sliders onto the t slot, but after hitting them with a heat gun for a few seconds they are fine. Also I used a circular pipe cutter for the brass tubing which left a little bit of a burr that had to be drilled out, but now it's all good.

    Working on mounting some ATK Trofeos now. I did a test mount on some wood which came out really close (like 1/2 mm off length), but since these are race heels without an adjustment plate I think I am going to mount the toes and then do the heel manually.

    Attachment 435313
    Looks great!

    I haven't had the chance to mount any bindings with zero adjustment with this jig, but I'm not really surprised that it might be off a hair. Lots of tolerance stackup to be found, like if the pin things are angled just a hair forward or back. I do have a pair I can mess around with and see if I can find anything specific that's off.

    The sliders are always pretty easy to move without having any gaps when I've printed them. Might be the type of thing where you have to print one at a time and scale to you get a fit you like. Probably just differences in material shrinkage, slicers, nozzle size, layer height etc.

    Did you have issue with the fit of the brass bushings into the template holes? I printed a template recently where the fit seemed too loose, so I bumped it down to a 9mm hole (from 9.1mm). Never had issues before over several different filaments and many templates I've printed, so I thought that was a little strange.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by fleaches View Post
    Time was maybe a week for me on a single machine? But that was just sort of casually wandering into the garage a couple times a day and starting a new print if another had finished. I also did the small pieces one at a time instead of packing them onto the bed.

    Maybe like 2/3 of a standard PLA spool, so < $20 in plastic.

    The other random hardware was more, closer to $50.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
    Yeah sounds about right.
    35ish hours total print time print at 0.6mm nozzle, more with a 0.4mm nozzle.
    600-800grams filament.

    Hardware is only like $5/per and $12 for the t-slots if you were able to buy in bulk. Unfortunately buying the hardware for a single jig does add up...especially the t-slots

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2019
    Location
    Bay Area
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    751
    Quote Originally Posted by MottN View Post
    Looks great!

    I haven't had the chance to mount any bindings with zero adjustment with this jig, but I'm not really surprised that it might be off a hair. Lots of tolerance stackup to be found, like if the pin things are angled just a hair forward or back. I do have a pair I can mess around with and see if I can find anything specific that's off.

    The sliders are always pretty easy to move without having any gaps when I've printed them. Might be the type of thing where you have to print one at a time and scale to you get a fit you like. Probably just differences in material shrinkage, slicers, nozzle size, layer height etc.

    Did you have issue with the fit of the brass bushings into the template holes? I printed a template recently where the fit seemed too loose, so I bumped it down to a 9mm hole (from 9.1mm). Never had issues before over several different filaments and many templates I've printed, so I thought that was a little strange.
    Yeah probably just shrinkage etc, I haven't done a super good job calibrating things on that printer either so it's not surprising. Actually the half mm in BSL is extremely good, I'm not sure if I would expect the official ATK jig to be any better.

    Brass fits in the holes snugly but without squeezing them, they don't wiggle but if it turn it upside down and tap they will fall out. Trying to decide if I want to glue them or not.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  5. #30
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    Sep 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by MottN View Post
    Yeah sounds about right.
    35ish hours total print time print at 0.6mm nozzle, more with a 0.4mm nozzle.
    600-800grams filament.

    Hardware is only like $5/per and $12 for the t-slots if you were able to buy in bulk. Unfortunately buying the hardware for a single jig does add up...especially the t-slots
    Actually speaking of which if anyone is planning to do this I have some extra t slot and sliding nuts since the T slot came in packs of four rails and the nuts in bags of 100.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  6. #31
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    Apr 2022
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    Quote Originally Posted by fleaches View Post
    Yeah probably just shrinkage etc, I haven't done a super good job calibrating things on that printer either so it's not surprising. Actually the half mm in BSL is extremely good, I'm not sure if I would expect the official ATK jig to be any better.
    Yeah probably true. I think you still have to be pretty careful mounting this way. The t-slots keep things in place but they are not so stiff that they will not deflect. If you are pushing to the left or right when you start your drills, I think you could mess up your mount.

    My thought process with this thing is that it takes about the same amount of care as mounting with a paper template, it just greatly speeds up the process. And if you wanted something better you would have to get an actual jig.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2019
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    26
    @fleaches. DM sent

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    865
    Quote Originally Posted by MottN View Post
    Yeah probably true. I think you still have to be pretty careful mounting this way. The t-slots keep things in place but they are not so stiff that they will not deflect. If you are pushing to the left or right when you start your drills, I think you could mess up your mount.

    My thought process with this thing is that it takes about the same amount of care as mounting with a paper template, it just greatly speeds up the process. And if you wanted something better you would have to get an actual jig.
    I have found that 3dp jigs + clamps surpass actual jigs. I have measured under .005" average error for 3dp mounts, and Im sure this solution + clamps would work fine for Alpine bindings. A centerline drawn on the ski and some double checking would prob make it sufficient for touring bindings as well.

  9. #34
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    Jan 2014
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    865
    Quote Originally Posted by Westcoaster View Post
    I have found that 3dp jigs + clamps surpass actual jigs. I have measured under .005" average error for 3dp mounts, and Im sure this solution + clamps would work fine for Alpine bindings. A centerline drawn on the ski and some double checking would prob make it sufficient for touring bindings as well.
    Also, as always, USE A CENTER PUNCH.

  10. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
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    865
    Quote Originally Posted by MottN View Post
    Great, thanks!
    I will see about adding Attacks, warden demos, and the older salomon alpine patterns.
    Whats the function of the nut hole in the sliders? Cant quite understand the function of the bolt/nut in slider/nut in the 2020 track.

  11. #36
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    Apr 2022
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    Seattle Area
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    Quote Originally Posted by Westcoaster View Post
    Whats the function of the nut hole in the sliders? Cant quite understand the function of the bolt/nut in slider/nut in the 2020 track.
    I thought the t-nuts can be kinda fiddly, so I left that as a different option. If you put a longer screw in the knob and use the nut at the other end of the slider, it should also be able to clamp in place.


    And yes on the center-punch! I don't have a transfer punch set so I haven't used them when I have mounted with this thing, but always used to used a center punch when doing paper templates.
    If you are using the brass sleeves you would need a transfer punch set with a 8mm or 5/16" punch. I suppose it would be easy to print a sleeve of the right diameter to keep a center punch centered in the holes also.

  12. #37
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    Jan 2014
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    Quote Originally Posted by MottN View Post
    I thought the t-nuts can be kinda fiddly, so I left that as a different option. If you put a longer screw in the knob and use the nut at the other end of the slider, it should also be able to clamp in place.


    And yes on the center-punch! I don't have a transfer punch set so I haven't used them when I have mounted with this thing, but always used to used a center punch when doing paper templates.
    If you are using the brass sleeves you would need a transfer punch set with a 8mm or 5/16" punch. I suppose it would be easy to print a sleeve of the right diameter to keep a center punch centered in the holes also.
    Sweet.

    http://svst.com/Shop/Drilling-Mounti...ter-Punch.html

    An automatic punch would be better, but this works well with jigs.

  13. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Front Range, CO
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    481
    I'm going to be doing 3-4 mounts this season, unfortunately all different bindings: ATK Crest/C-raider, DF Vertical ST, Look SPX and a possible Solly STH2. Trying to follow the thread - what would be the cost in parts for each pattern? If I had all of the same I would definitely be building this - very cool!

  14. #39
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    Sep 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcdawg View Post
    I'm going to be doing 3-4 mounts this season, unfortunately all different bindings: ATK Crest/C-raider, DF Vertical ST, Look SPX and a possible Solly STH2. Trying to follow the thread - what would be the cost in parts for each pattern? If I had all of the same I would definitely be building this - very cool!
    If you happen to be coming to Tahoe, I have jigs for Dynafit Vertical ST and Salomon STH/ Warden. Also an older Look jig that will fit SPX, but doesn't go very wide - maybe 90-95mm or so.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  15. #40
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    Sep 2011
    Location
    Front Range, CO
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    481
    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    If you happen to be coming to Tahoe, I have jigs for Dynafit Vertical ST and Salomon STH/ Warden. Also an older Look jig that will fit SPX, but doesn't go very wide - maybe 90-95mm or so.
    Thanks, appreciate the offer! Only have plans to head East unfortunately.

  16. #41
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    Sep 2019
    Location
    Bay Area
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcdawg View Post
    I'm going to be doing 3-4 mounts this season, unfortunately all different bindings: ATK Crest/C-raider, DF Vertical ST, Look SPX and a possible Solly STH2. Trying to follow the thread - what would be the cost in parts for each pattern? If I had all of the same I would definitely be building this - very cool!
    Once you have the base jig the additional patterns are like a couple dollars in plastic and $5 in brass tube if you decide to use it.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

  17. #42
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    Apr 2022
    Location
    Seattle Area
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    Quote Originally Posted by slcdawg View Post
    I'm going to be doing 3-4 mounts this season, unfortunately all different bindings: ATK Crest/C-raider, DF Vertical ST, Look SPX and a possible Solly STH2. Trying to follow the thread - what would be the cost in parts for each pattern? If I had all of the same I would definitely be building this - very cool!

    Quote Originally Posted by fleaches View Post
    Once you have the base jig the additional patterns are like a couple dollars in plastic and $5 in brass tube if you decide to use it.
    As fleaches said, If you are making and have access to a printer, the templates are very inexpensive and you can choose whether you want the brass inserts or not.
    The cost for if you were to make the jig plus the templates you want is: ~1 roll of PLA, $30-$50 in parts, and a bunch of printer time.

    If you were referring to my offer to make, I have been charging $65 for the complete jig and $10 per set of templates (or more for complicated ones with lots of inserts like the one that has all of the ATK patterns in it). It would be ~$12 to ship from seattle area to SLC.

  18. #43
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Front Range, CO
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    481
    Quote Originally Posted by MottN View Post
    As fleaches said, If you are making and have access to a printer, the templates are very inexpensive and you can choose whether you want the brass inserts or not.
    The cost for if you were to make the jig plus the templates you want is: ~1 roll of PLA, $30-$50 in parts, and a bunch of printer time.

    If you were referring to my offer to make, I have been charging $65 for the complete jig and $10 per set of templates (or more for complicated ones with lots of inserts like the one that has all of the ATK patterns in it). It would be ~$12 to ship from seattle area to SLC.
    Thanks for the info! I hadn't thought out the how yet, appreciate the offer!

  19. #44
    Join Date
    Apr 2022
    Location
    Seattle Area
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    For anyone interested, I've updated the files on printables:

    • Added hole size test block to dial in fit for brass inserts; If you want a tighter or looser fit than the 9.1mm, use the block to determine a size and then use SCAD files to generate new templates as required. This helps as different materials, printers, and speeds will produce tighter or looser fits.
    • Added Demo templates for Salomon Warden 11 & 13, and Tyrolia attack, along with spacers specific to each of those.
    • Added templates for PLUM bindings.
    • Added templates for the older Solomon alpine bindings (916,920, etc).


    The SCAD files are updated to have the new templates aswell. So, as before, you can always change the hole size to whatever you want if you don't intend to use inserts or would rather use normal (non-stepped) drill bits.

  20. #45
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Denver/Dillon, CO
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    Quote Originally Posted by MottN View Post
    For anyone interested, I've updated the files on printables:

    • Added hole size test block to dial in fit for brass inserts; If you want a tighter or looser fit than the 9.1mm, use the block to determine a size and then use SCAD files to generate new templates as required. This helps as different materials, printers, and speeds will produce tighter or looser fits.
    • Added Demo templates for Salomon Warden 11 & 13, and Tyrolia attack, along with spacers specific to each of those.
    • Added templates for PLUM bindings.
    • Added templates for the older Solomon alpine bindings (916,920, etc).


    The SCAD files are updated to have the new templates aswell. So, as before, you can always change the hole size to whatever you want if you don't intend to use inserts or would rather use normal (non-stepped) drill bits.
    You may be stepping into TGR god territory.
    Someone once told me that I ski like a Scandinavian angel.

  21. #46
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    Apr 2022
    Location
    Seattle Area
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    Haha, thanks. I imagine this is only useful to a pretty small percentage of the already small percentage of people who like to mount their own gear.

  22. #47
    Join Date
    Apr 2022
    Location
    Seattle Area
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    Bumping this mainly for visibility, but I've also updated some things...

    Among other things, template text is now extruded upwards so you too can have nice looking labels like this:
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_3530.jpg 
Views:	101 
Size:	1.65 MB 
ID:	441594

  23. #48
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Posts
    865
    Looks great. Could you upload the openscad files for the centering jigs? Id like too thicken up the flanges for the fasteners that connect the halves, mine are quite thin.

  24. #49
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    Apr 2022
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    Seattle Area
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    Quote Originally Posted by Westcoaster View Post
    Looks great. Could you upload the openscad files for the centering jigs? Id like too thicken up the flanges for the fasteners that connect the halves, mine are quite thin.
    Everything was done in solidworks, I only did the SCADs so people could make templates for different drill sizes or patterns without me having to do it.
    I can upload a .step which is usually easier to work with than the .stl if that helps, or I can just do it if I know what you are talking about.

    Are you concerned about the C-bored screws holding the upper half to the bars too? Or just the two screws holding the two halves?
    I originally had to C-bore the ones holding the two halves together because I wanted a flat surface to clamp, but then I changed it to the raised bar on the front inside which worked better.

  25. #50
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    Jan 2014
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    865
    Quote Originally Posted by MottN View Post
    Everything was done in solidworks, I only did the SCADs so people could make templates for different drill sizes or patterns without me having to do it.
    I can upload a .step which is usually easier to work with than the .stl if that helps, or I can just do it if I know what you are talking about.

    Are you concerned about the C-bored screws holding the upper half to the bars too? Or just the two screws holding the two halves?
    I originally had to C-bore the ones holding the two halves together because I wanted a flat surface to clamp, but then I changed it to the raised bar on the front inside which worked better.
    At least on my print it's barely two layers, and basically fails when assembling the halves. I can also print some plugs and glue em into the counterbore, NBD.

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