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  1. #1
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    Nov 2013
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    TR - South Chilcotins, etc.

    A friend had been eyeballing the South Chilcotins for the past ten years or so. His old lady took some initiative in March and surprised him with a flight in mid-July from Tyaughton Lake to Lorna Lake with nights at Bear Paw and Spruce camp to follow. We were lucky enough to get the invite to join.

    We headed up BC way to get some warm-up riding in before the Chilcotins. Had a fun day in Squamish...
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    After a few laps we met up with the other half of our crew to make plans in Pemberton. That is when we got the news...
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    Thankfully, everyone survived. I believe all passengers and the pilot were evac'd to a hospital. I think the pilot is still admitted. Hope everyone fully recovers.

    Alright...we can adapt. The float plane flight in with our bikes was a big draw, but biking in the Chilcotins and having backcountry amenities (cots, tents, food, water, adult beverages, etc.) provided were still on the table! We decided to continue our journey north, stopping in Pemberton for some shut-eye and single track along the way.
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    Stoked, we got on the road (99) to make our way towards Tyax to camp for the night. Quite the scenic drive. We popped back in to cell service in Lilooet and got a frantic text from Tyax...they were closing all back country camps for 5 days due to a Covid exposure.
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    After some deliberation in a (hot) defunct pizza place parking lot in Lilooet, we decided to soldier on.

    Ended up at Mowson Pond for a basecamp...not bad digs.
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    Chilcotins, Day 1, Taylor Creek to Windy Pass
    -Windy Pass is just one of those spots you hear about/see photos of when looking into the South Chilcotins. The easiest way for us to get there without driving a long shuttle was via the Taylor Creek TH. ~21 miles and ~5,100ft gain. Super fun riding overall...lots of pushing our bikes.

    Started off on some double track with good views of the surrounding mountains. Plentiful water, as the grade was occasionally steep.
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    Pretty early on we reached Taylor Creek itself. It was full and running fast. We opted for a log crossing opposed to thigh-deep swiftwater.
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    Still climbing (looking towards Camel Pass)
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    Top of Taylor Creek Trail looking towards the TH
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    Towards Windy Pass
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    The descent down towards the junction with High Trail was a mix of old double and fun single track with epic views
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    High Trail was breathtaking, in more ways than one. Consistently steep single track with plenty of hike(push)-a-bike.
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    After a nice break on Windy Pass, we headed back from whence we came...
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    We intended on heading out over Camel Pass to ride Ridge-o-Rama and North Cinnabar back to the vehicles, but were turned around by extensive snow patches and getting late in the day (3pm-ish). We opted for the known descent down Taylor Creek Trail. Spooked up a grizz on the way down and opted for the in-water crossing on the creek. Super fun first day in the South Chilcotins............

  2. #2
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    Looks awesome, I hope you post some more.

  3. #3
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    Good on you for soldiering on. Freiburg also has good camping as does Jewel . For anyone else reading this I wrote about 3 day trips from Tyax itself and had those posted on MTBR from a while back. It'll show up in a search. Still quite a bit of snow even now fwiw

    edit - MTBR link dead.

    Here's the 3 day trips - use index to scroll thru

    http://www.leelau.net/2008/chilcotin...ins2008_08_02/

  4. #4
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    Day 2 - High Trail slog to Single Track Goodness
    - ~15 miles, ~2,700ft ascent
    - The evening of day 1 we met some folks in camp who had just completed a super fun single-track descent that landed them at camp (Mowson Pond). After quite a bit of double track on day 1, we decided a day full of single track would be rad. We set up a short shuttle.

    High Trail ended up being our ascent route. It is double track the whole way, in nearly full sun, and steep AF. I'd say we pushed our bikes 2/3s of the entire ascent. No pictures, because I'm not great about documenting when I'm fighting for my life.

    The down connected a bunch of fun single-track trails with all sorts of variation.

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    Too busy either questioning my decision-making or hooting it up on the way down...so here is the TrailFarts route
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    Day 3 - Gun Creek to Spruce Lake
    - After debating flogging ourselves another day to get into the alpine, we came to the conclusion that a mellow(er) day with scenery and single track would be a good way to end the trip. Plus, we'd get to see one of the camps we were originally supposed to stay at. ~`19 miles ~2,300ft ascent

    We cut off quite a bit of the lower (likely less interesting) part of the trail by driving a logging road. Side note....the vast majority of dirt roads we traveled were in excellent shape. Ended up at a nice parking area with a bridge to start us off over Gun Creek...which was a raging river
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    Lower Gun Creek Trail was mostly smooth mellow meandering single track punctuated by the occasional brutally steep set of switchbacks. Lots of creek crossings, but anything consequential had bridges...which were crucial.
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    Eventually, we started to break out into some of the meadows we saught
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    There was still plenty of pushing our bikes....it is the Chilcotins after all
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    Made it to Spruce Lake. Hung out a bit...contemplated the trip that should have been but will now be next summer
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    The ride down was insanely fun single track with views and flowers to match. Stoked we made it a lollipop, as the first few miles down were way better than what we climbed.
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    We had a campsite at Tyax booked originally, so we ended up staying there that night. It was super quiet and peaceful. Met some folks we knew and hit the bar at the lodge. Beautiful spot. Fun imagining taking off in the Beaver from here...
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    We drove the Huntley from Gold Bridge to Pemberton. It was in fine enough shape for our Subaru and breathtakingly gorgeous. Did a short ride in Pemberton, hit up the Beer Farm, and made our way back to Squamish. Although STRs are much derided (by myself included), it was nice to have a full shower, kitchen, and bathroom to recuperate in. The views were nice too.
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    We contemplated going to Whistler to ride the park on Sunday and see some folks we knew. Decided Monday would be less crowded, so we rode some fun stuff in Squamish again. Got news from our friends about the shooting in Whistler. RIP to the deceased, but it sounds like it didn't involve citizens beyond experiencing the horrific trauma that we're (seemingly) used to in the States. Ended up riding the park on Monday and it was a zoo for the first few hours. Super fun and less crowded by 1pm. Headed home after...satisfied, but hungry for more.


    All in all a great trip with even better friends. We continued to narrowly avoid disaster. Vibes to anyone who was on our travel path but 1-2 days ahead. Most folks familiar with the Chilcotins kept saying the area was 2-3 weeks behind normal (in terms of moister, temperatures, snowpack, flowers, etc.), just like we experienced in the PNW. We're all looking forward to next summer in hopes Tyax's pilot recovers and they can find a new Beaver. We only just scraped the surface of the Southern Chilcotins, and plan to spend 3 or 4 nights next time. I look forward to updating this TR in a year.
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    *Apologies for the upside-down photos. I spent way longer than anyone should trying to figure it out.

  5. #5
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    Feb 2013
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    Right on! My wife and I had a planned trip with Tyax a few years ago that got derailed by a nagging concussion as well as poor air quality. I'd like to make it back there.

  6. #6
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    Sick! The wife and I are booked with Tyax for 2 weeks from now, they just confirmed today they've arranged "alternate transport" for us, which I'm guessing is one of their Blackcomb helis. Never been north of Whistler—excited to see that part of the world.

  7. #7
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    I’ve done a handful of trips in there (nothing near the volume of LeeLau) but I always love seeing photos and hearing peoples different experiences out there. What a fun place to explore on bikes - way to get after it despite the curve balls thrown your way!

  8. #8
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    good on you for going anyway, have seen a lot of comments suggesting people weren't going to go up if they couldn't get a drop and that's a shame since it's such an amazing place to ride regardless. Definitely huge landscape and takes many trips to figure out the best way to approach different rides!

    That being said, I have a lot of memories of great trips starting in the Beaver, super sad to see that happen but amazing no one was more seriously injured or killed.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by t.odd View Post
    good on you for going anyway, have seen a lot of comments suggesting people weren't going to go up if they couldn't get a drop and that's a shame since it's such an amazing place to ride regardless. Definitely huge landscape and takes many trips to figure out the best way to approach different rides!
    ^^^ This for sure. I got to do the flight in to Lorna once which was pretty cool. But it isn't very hard to access the area by riding in. Timely thread, I'm hoping to be up there in about 10 days.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by evdog View Post
    ^^^ This for sure. I got to do the flight in to Lorna once which was pretty cool. But it isn't very hard to access the area by riding in. Timely thread, I'm hoping to be up there in about 10 days.
    Snow conditions update posted to FB fyi

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Snow conditions update posted to FB fyi
    Facebook? Not on it.... I'll have to take my chances : ) Hoping this heat wave will melt a bunch of snow. The trails I want to ride seem to be seeing some traffic. Are you in NV this weekend? I should be over Sat pm and Sunday.

  12. #12
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    Should be staying at Gun Lake with the family aug 7-14, for a bit of R&R&R and remote work...passes will likely be melting fast with this current heat wave

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by evdog View Post
    Facebook? Not on it.... I'll have to take my chances : ) Hoping this heat wave will melt a bunch of snow. The trails I want to ride seem to be seeing some traffic. Are you in NV this weekend? I should be over Sat pm and Sunday.
    Windy Pass last Sunday per Matt B. This is the windlip which accumulates snow. Ridgelines melting out so should be much better

    In Whis right now so will miss you. Dang. Had some old growth singletrack finally good to goClick image for larger version. 

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  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by t.odd View Post
    Should be staying at Gun Lake with the family aug 7-14, for a bit of R&R&R and remote work...passes will likely be melting fast with this current heat wave
    Heat pump broke down so took my laptop up to Blackcomb to work off the gondola! Rode some of your legacy trails also yesterday and going to ride more of them today. Amazing how much moisture there was in the ground - stuff still tacky

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Heat pump broke down so took my laptop up to Blackcomb to work off the gondola! Rode some of your legacy trails also yesterday and going to ride more of them today. Amazing how much moisture there was in the ground - stuff still tacky
    right on! Cheakamus is riding well these days! Zach and I put some work into the southern trail a few weeks ago, hope to get some more done this fall...If you're on that one today, throw a few rocks on the right bypass I started right at the top

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Windy Pass last Sunday per Matt B. This is the windlip which accumulates snow. Ridgelines melting out so should be much better

    In Whis right now so will miss you. Dang. Had some old growth singletrack finally good to goClick image for larger version. 

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    Wow, good to know. One day's route I was thinking was up Gun to Spruce then over Windy and back down Lick. So maybe pass on that one for now!

    I might be up in Squamish Mon-Tues, Whis on Wed-Th, Pemberton Friday.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by evdog View Post
    Wow, good to know. One day's route I was thinking was up Gun to Spruce then over Windy and back down Lick. So maybe pass on that one for now!

    I might be up in Squamish Mon-Tues, Whis on Wed-Th, Pemberton Friday.
    I've got that route on my list too since it's pretty easy from Gun Lake to Jewel staging, 99% of that route is probably clear and probably not too hard to get around...judging by some trailforks ridelogs people are going over windy.

  18. #18
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    Where are you staying up there, evdog? The more classic windy route is via Taylor and then down Gun Creek. Lick can also be done from Taylor/Eldorado or Camel/Eldorado if you're staying Tyaughton area. I'm a huge fan of Camel/Ridge-O-Rama for alpine bang for the buck.

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by evdog View Post
    Wow, good to know. One day's route I was thinking was up Gun to Spruce then over Windy and back down Lick. So maybe pass on that one for now!

    I might be up in Squamish Mon-Tues, Whis on Wed-Th, Pemberton Friday.
    Your route is probably fine. That windlip is always the biggest snowfield. Higher than Windy will be snowy which is a shame as thats such nice ridgeline. Just thought you should know Windy itself will have issues

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by t.odd View Post
    Where are you staying up there, evdog? The more classic windy route is via Taylor and then down Gun Creek. Lick can also be done from Taylor/Eldorado or Camel/Eldorado if you're staying Tyaughton area. I'm a huge fan of Camel/Ridge-O-Rama for alpine bang for the buck.
    Good question! I don't really plan ahead much, but likely one of the free campsites like Frieberg, Mowson or BC hydro depending which has room. Or wherever I can find a flat spot. I'm not too particular, and since it looks like I'll get there Friday pm might not have a ton of choice.

    Yeah the other day's route I was looking at is Taylor - Camel - RidgeOrama - Cinnibar.

    Quote Originally Posted by LeeLau View Post
    Your route is probably fine. That windlip is always the biggest snowfield. Higher than Windy will be snowy which is a shame as thats such nice ridgeline. Just thought you should know Windy itself will have issues
    Cool, thanks. By higher than Windy you mean LS bluffs? Was hoping to hit that but looking again it is quite a bit higher.


    Have either of you guys heard anything about Shulaps traverse? That one gets pretty high as well. Interested in it, but figured it was unlikely to go given the late snow this year. Fingers crossed for some of the higher stuff near Revy as well.

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by evdog View Post
    Good question! I don't really plan ahead much, but likely one of the free campsites like Frieberg, Mowson or BC hydro depending which has room. Or wherever I can find a flat spot. I'm not too particular, and since it looks like I'll get there Friday pm might not have a ton of choice.

    Yeah the other day's route I was looking at is Taylor - Camel - RidgeOrama - Cinnibar.


    Cool, thanks. By higher than Windy you mean LS bluffs? Was hoping to hit that but looking again it is quite a bit higher.


    Have either of you guys heard anything about Shulaps traverse? That one gets pretty high as well. Interested in it, but figured it was unlikely to go given the late snow this year. Fingers crossed for some of the higher stuff near Revy as well.
    Higher than Windy I mean LS bluffs and the counterclockwise highest ridgeline by the CMH camp. Also the Eldorado ridge hike a bike NE of Windy. They'll have snow for sure.

    Shulaps hasn't been cleared of trees recently so may have blowdown. I'd call around and check. BikeCo at Pemberton may know.

    For Revy Frisby had a lot of snow still but because it's flat it takes a while to melt.

    I'd try Joss Peak or Keystone Standard over Frisby at this point. For Keystone go out and back on Keystone Peak if there's too much snow on the N facing lines that you'll encounter on the bowl approaches.

    In 2 weeks you'll have better luck around Revy so depends on timeline

  22. #22
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    Thanks Lee. I was looking at Joss but didn't see any ride logs on TF yet this year. Frisby is seeing some traffic but only to start of Frisby vistas on TF. I imagine if snow has just melted it will be muddy. I"ll have to see how things look when I get there. That's about 10 days out. Can't push much beyond that as I have a bunch of stuff to hit in WA on the way home.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by evdog View Post
    Thanks Lee. I was looking at Joss but didn't see any ride logs on TF yet this year. Frisby is seeing some traffic but only to start of Frisby vistas on TF. I imagine if snow has just melted it will be muddy. I"ll have to see how things look when I get there. That's about 10 days out. Can't push much beyond that as I have a bunch of stuff to hit in WA on the way home.
    Frisby has snow to about 5k in patches. That's just short of ridgeline.

  24. #24
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    LS Bluffs is cool, the right turn into tree line is a bit bushy as of a couple years ago, doubt it's seen much clearing since 2019, would imagine the west side of spruce peak ridge doesn't have a lot of snow, pretty easy to make that call once you get up there and have a look. We've done Taylor/Spruce Peak/Lick a few times before and I like that approach. The southern counterclockwise loop off spruce peak is also cool, have seen a huge herd of mountain goats there previously too. If you're camping tyaughton area, I think coming down windy-spruce-gun is probably preferable to climbing up it then doing Lick especially if you're going to be able to do 2-3 rides and can do lick via a taylor option too, but hey, adventure is adventure and it's all great riding and vistas!

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  25. #25
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    Looks like Tyax's new owner, Blackcomb Helicoptors sent a bird their way so operations can get going. Bummed we don't get a floatplane experience, but if it's this thing I won't be complaining:
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    Since we can't land on Lorna, they sent some alternatives:

    Relay Col LZ
    51.11060, -123.01470
    https://www.gaiagps.com/map/?loc=15....TopoRasterFeet

    Iron Pass LZ
    51.13686, -123.24823
    https://www.gaiagps.com/map/?loc=12....poRasterMeters

    These LZs were selected based on ease of access for the aircraft, but also the potential to create enjoyable routes similar in nature to our previous LZs (Lorna Lake, Spruce Lake, Warner Lake).

    Potential Routes (refer to Trailforks or Southern Chilcotin Trail Map):

    Relay Col LZ

    If landing at Relay Col, you are quickly faced with one of two major route choices: either heading NE down Little Paradise Creek towards Little Graveyard Trail/ Relay Creek Trail or heading W down Manson Creek Col/ Manson Creek Trail. Either option will provide plenty of beautiful singletrack and adventure, with the former being longer and more involved.

    Iron Pass LZ

    Iron Pass LZ is the likely replacement if you booked a Lorna Lake drop. From Iron Pass, start your day by descending Grant Creek Trail towards the Big Creek Trail Junction. From here, you will have the option of continuing NE down Big Creek towards Graveyard Creek or heading S towards Lorna Pass or E over Elbow Pass.


    Probably going to stick with the Iron Pass option since it's similar to the initial plan.

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