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  1. #1
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    Fillmore Valves Experiences Thread

    Thought this deserves some discussion. They are $50, they should be flawless.

    (Repost)

    Well, funny you say that. Had my first odd thing with the Fillmore tonight. It was dusk (and I wasn’t wearing my glasses, shame on me). I added some air, that was easy. But putting the cap back on the valve got a teensy bit cockeyed, and either cross threaded a tiny bit on the valve, or inside the cap (I’ll investigate tomorrow). It worked just fine without the cap, though, so that’s good.
    I am also going to paint the valve cap safety orange or something, way too easy to lose track of it while pumping.

    Also concerned about topping off sealant, they claim any injector will work, but those are a PITA compared to the used small Stan’s bottle method.

    Also curious how one would ‘degunk’ the valve of built up sealant (we all know it’s gonna happen).

    Google Says:

    Dissolving Dried Latex with Commerical Products
    There are several commercial products that can dissolve Latex. "Goof Off" and "Oops", intended for household use, are found in many hardware stores and offer water-based and environmentally friendly versions. Tetrahydrofuran (THF) readily dissolves latex. Due to its highly flammable and explosive nature, THF is reserved for industrial use. Nitrile or neoprene rubber gloves should be used to administer THF..

    Sounds…potent

    Edit: tried filling the tire at home in a controlled environment, I can’t seem to find a way not to lose a whole lot of air as I am putting on the valve cap.
    Anyone have tips, or similar experiences?
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  2. #2
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    This guy doesn’t mention losing any air threading the cap back on, maybe I’m missing something?



    However, I did learn a few things from this video. I will have an extra cap on me in the future.
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  3. #3
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    They don't lose any air putting the cap back on if you don't push down on the cap as you're doing it. I bet that didn't help with your cross threading either. Just set it on there and spin.

  4. #4
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    THF is super nasty. In terms of stuff you have at home, WD40 works amazingly well to clean out latexed valves. Better than isopropyl alcohol, acetone, citrus degreasers, gasoline, etc etc.
    Know of a pair of Fischer Ranger 107Ti 189s (new or used) for sale? PM me.

  5. #5
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    No problems yet, but only had them for a month or so. There are 2 types of Fillmores out there. The 2nd one is meant for a Fillmore inflator/sealant system from what I have heard.
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  6. #6
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    Hunh, mine won’t thread on at all if I don’t push down pretty hard on it. I’ll bust out the magnifying glass tomorrow (and also see how the one on the other tire works and if it’s the same).
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  7. #7
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    So, after a little bit of a you-tube rabbit hole, it appears that I must have slightly bent the topmost portion of the inner stainless rod (the nubbin at the end with threads and flats). I will try and bend it back as gently as possible tomorrow, and see if that helps.
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  8. #8
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    Tire just need a fucking pin needle basketball/inflatable ball pinhole to inject shit into. Retain the valve for air input only and the junk don't jank the dink hole with coagulated cum.

  9. #9
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    I have the 2nd gen Fillmore, been using it since Christmas. The only issue I had was at one point a little bit of dried sealant got lodged under the plunger preventing it from fully sealing. Getting it off was quick after I popped the tire bead. There's a lot less texture to the plunger than a normal valve, so it's harder for sealant to stay stuck to it.

    I tried pushing sealant through the valve once unsuccessfully, but that was with inserts (because like an idiot, I forgot to add some to the tire after I got the insert on the rim and 1 bead of the tire on). The insert kept pushing down on the plunger preventing the sealant from getting in. I'm sure shooting sealant through the valve would work fine without the insert.

  10. #10
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    Somehow managed to delete this while trying to edit:

    I've been using Fillmore valves for 6 months or so with no clogs, no issues. Ill second that they don't lose air when you replace the cap unless you push down. It's supposed to be a feature that you can let out .5 PSI at a time by unscrewing the cap a little and tapping it.

    I've had no problem filling sealant through the valves using an Orange Seal injector bottle and pushing the little plunger in some. CushCore XC in front, PRO in back. Infinitely easier than popping the bead and spilling all over the floor (my general results of pouring sealant).

    No clogging has me sold. I'm considering buying a set for my second wheelset.

  11. #11
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    Been using Fillmore valves the past couple of months with no issues. Haven’t tried to add fluid yet but I did grab an injector for when I have to. No inserts. No issues pumping and recapping. I really like how much airflows through them and unlike last year, I haven’t had a plugged valve yet.

  12. #12
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    FWIW (for those of us who don't want to spend $400 on Fillmores to outfit the fleet) if you put some petro lube on the valve core before you put it back in after adding sealant the incidence of clogging will be greatly reduced. Also blow the sealant into the tire and off of the inside of the stem.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  13. #13
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    Fillmore Valves Experiences Thread

    Can you use a pressure gauge on them?

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by rudy View Post
    Can you use a pressure gauge on them?
    Yes, my Topeak digital gauge, Park Inflator, & Topeak floor pump's gauges all work.

  15. #15
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    After running these for a few weeks, I love them, but I do have one frustration that is probably operator error.
    How do you thread the cap back on without losing a crapload of air? Every method I tried just seemed to bleed out enough that it was less than when I started. My final method that works is just to add about 40-50 PSI, and just assume a 20 PSI loss when I thread it on, but this just seems wrong.
    Anyone?
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  16. #16
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    I've never had that problem, but I also fill my tires with the valve pointing down from the top of the tire so I don't have to bend over as much. I just lightly make connection between the cap and stem then tighten it up.

  17. #17
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    Yes, I always do the same. But by the time the threads of the cap engage, I have lost at least 10 PSI. Maybe I don’t need to be pushing so hard? I guess I’ll practice at home with a compressor. As I say, likely operator error.
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  18. #18
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    You're pushing too hard. Just set the cap on and spin it down. If you push down before it's closed you'll let air out, but you definitely don't need to do that.

  19. #19
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    I kinda figured as much as I wrote this out.
    Thanks, gents.
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  20. #20
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    Ok, so end of summer report: cracked three of these out on trails this year, including one on the first stage of the Trans Sierra Norte. No difference in my pumping, just not robust enough. A few teams and mechanics were here, and they all agreed.
    If they make a brass one, I will use it. But as is, I’m over it.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    As I say, likely operator error.
    .

  22. #22
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    If you cracked it, at least specify how and where.

    I'm all about em personally, never had your problem of pushing air out with the valve cap, but from reading all of your posts it sounds like you like to fuck with your shit too much. haha

  23. #23
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    I figured out the valves a long time ago as far as operation. Valve stems tend to crack a few mm's inside the pump. Never, ever had this happen to an aluminum valve stem before. I ride a lot of f really big climbs and descents in S.A
    and travel often
    with my bike. Lots and be lots of airing up and down, unfortunately.
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