Ask the Idiots

[jackstraw]

Friend had a small leak and we couldn't find it. It was about 300 degrees and humid af, so after pumping it up a couple times during the ride I grabbed my Co2 and blasted the thing. Finally a tiny invisible hole at the bead was heard. A bacon strip was unsuccessful so after f'ing around with sweat raining off us, mosquitoes attacking, and daylight fading we decided to toob it and gtfo.

Well, apparently, when you Co2 cold air in on a hot humid day it creates a vacuum when you break the tire seal. Then add the stans for some added adhesion between the sidewalls and what a shitshow getting this tire off! Idiots rule!

[Boissal]

^^^ sounds quite painful!!

Consequences of aggressive drifting, is this tire shot?

[skaredshtles]

^^^ sounds quite painful!!

Consequences of aggressive drifting, is this tire shot?

Is that the only missing knob? If so... I'd say keep runnin' 'er!

[Boissal]

Yep, only pulled the one. The tire is a dream for loose corners, not so much anytime I need traction...
I'll probably fill the hole with some flexible epoxy or aquaseal hoping to protect the carcass a bit and put another few 100 miles on it!

[californiagrown]

Attachment 418986

Pro-tip: If you skip replacing the cotter pin on your pad retention bolt, the bolt and your pads will eventually gain a sweet 'eject' function on takeoff. Don't worry, they're super easy to spot in the middle of the jump line.

I have a bad history of breaking bike parts when riding with this one buddy of mine. He still reminds me about the time my rear pads flew out of my bike and hit him while i was towing him through the Gravy Train jumps at Duthie. It happens.

[Thaleia]

I mentioned this idea elsewhere but is was either ignored (understandably) or got lost in the mix.

If you're running tubeless as a means of preventing flats, and dreading the day where you have to potentially fix a leaking tire full of nasty sealant, trailside, miles away from anything - why not just run inner tubes, filled with sealant?

[skaredshtles]

I mentioned this idea elsewhere but is was either ignored (understandably) or got lost in the mix.

If you're running tubeless as a means of preventing flats, and dreading the day where you have to potentially fix a leaking tire full of nasty sealant, trailside, miles away from anything - why not just run inner tubes, filled with sealant?

Because when you pinch-flat the tube, it ain't gonna seal. So now you got even more shit to deal with.

And pinch-flats are *far* more likely with a tube.

At least that's my story...

[jackstraw]

I mentioned this idea elsewhere but is was either ignored (understandably) or got lost in the mix.

If you're running tubeless as a means of preventing flats, and dreading the day where you have to potentially fix a leaking tire full of nasty sealant, trailside, miles away from anything - why not just run inner tubes, filled with sealant?

I have done that. Rog recommended it to me years ago. It's heavier but works well. But that was when I didn't have a good wheelset for toobless. I would never go back to that again as I rarely flat and can run lower pressure. Toobs flat all the time. My last toob with Stan's did have 3 maybe 4 sealed holes via the stans when it finally completely failed.

In the end if you have to toob up like my friend did, it's not that big of a deal. Just don't Co2 it on a hot day prior

[VTskibum]

Mix and matching spare mtb parts with DJ parts w/o more research got me.

Ordered a freewheel and 4 notch tool to match. Arrive and realize my silly hub is a 6 notch singlespeed cassette, so now have unncessary tool, freewheel and still no way to remove the existing cassette. Learned more about off normal cassette v freewheels via our buddy Calvin @ Park Tool on YouTube which I clearly should have done before making assumptions.

Ugh off we go to buy a tool I'll need once a decade at most, though might just swing by a shop and swap out for a SS ring and normal lock-ring I already have tools for.

[skizix]

If you're running tubeless as a means of preventing flats, and dreading the day where you have to potentially fix a leaking tire full of nasty sealant, trailside, miles away from anything - why not just run inner tubes, filled with sealant?

Because while it seems like it should work, it just doesn't - at least with Stan's juice.

When my daughter first did a mtb team (age 10 or 11 - can't remember), she was on an otherwirse-pretty-legit Trek mtb, that had schraeder tubes. They did a lot of drills on grassy fields, and I got sick of all the goathead punctures. So, since all schraeders have removable cores, I shot a bunch of Stan's in there. Did nothing - had goathead punctures almost immediately and just as frequently. Once she got a tubeless setup (same Stan's sealant), zero issues. Not sure why that is.

OTOH, when she was really young, I had the burly trailer, then the trail-a-bike. For whatever reason, those both got flats all the time. So I got Slime tubes for those, and they definitely do seem to work. Different product, different purpose. So I guess if you want to run tubes with sealant, do Slime, not a tubeless-intended sealant.

[Dantheman]

When my daughter first did a mtb team (age 10 or 11 - can't remember), she was on an otherwirse-pretty-legit Trek mtb, that had schraeder tubes. They did a lot of drills on grassy fields, and I got sick of all the goathead punctures. So, since all schraeders have removable cores, I shot a bunch of Stan's in there. Did nothing - had goathead punctures almost immediately and just as frequently. Once she got a tubeless setup (same Stan's sealant), zero issues. Not sure why that is.

Weird. My kid rode through a shit ton of goatheads on his BMX once so I did the exact same thing and it worked great. Also did it to my commuter tires and it worked on those too (with non-removable core presta valves no less!).

For MTB though the answer is that other than goathead resistance tubes with sealant has all of the downsides of tubes with none of the upsides of tubeless. You'll have more rotating weight and tube/tire hysteresis friction, you will get pinch flats much more easily than tubeless, and when you get a puncture/pinch your only option is to remove the tire and replace the tube. With tubeless all but the worst punctures can be plugged, especially if you carry high-quality plugs like Dynaplug or Stans Darts. Since you're not removing the wheel and wrestling beads on/off rims most punctures are a minor inconvenience instead of a huge PITA.

[EWG]

Yep, only pulled the one. The tire is a dream for loose corners, not so much anytime I need traction...
I'll probably fill the hole with some flexible epoxy or aquaseal hoping to protect the carcass a bit and put another few 100 miles on it!

I have tried running like this a few times and the casing starts to bulge out past the rubber. I vote it's shot, but I don't want a somewhat "unfixable" flat 10 miles from nowhere. Your mileage may vary.

[muted reborn]

I have tried running like this a few times and the casing starts to bulge out past the rubber. I vote it's shot, but I don't want a somewhat "unfixable" flat 10 miles from nowhere. Your mileage may vary.

This is the idiot advice thread, not the expert advice thread.

[XXX-er]

so much winning in the idiots thread running a fucked up tire instead of changing it out lol !

as I remember those slime tubes came from the factory in some bikes I was putting togetehr at the shop and they weighed a ton, I thot the idea is to lose the weight of the tube ?

Stans in a tube may or may not seal, I wouldn't

I definatly wouldn't do any thing Rog did cuz almost all his ideas were sketchy as fuck

[Dantheman]

I have tried running like this a few times and the casing starts to bulge out past the rubber. I vote it's shot, but I don't want a somewhat "unfixable" flat 10 miles from nowhere. Your mileage may vary.

See #3 in the OP: https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...ance-guidebook

A bit more complex here since there's no tube to hold the bill in place, but a piece of old tube and some rubber cement and you're golden.

[XXX-er]

On the moab trip shop bro said " make sure your bike is 100 %, we will have the stand, tools and spares but I don't expect to see worn or plugged tires, no sketchy anything period "

[toast2266]

^^^ sounds quite painful!!

Consequences of aggressive drifting, is this tire shot?

Everyone's looking at the missing knob. I'm more focused on how haggard all the remaining knobs are. That thing's done.

[grskier]

That tire is totally effed


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[grskier]

One last point on the sealant in tube… I haven’t seen it said so I think it’s obvious to some but.. that tube doesn’t creat a seal any the valve stem like your toobless valve stem… so yeah, it’s not any more layers of protection or whatever.


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[XXX-er]

agreed that ^^ tire is pretty much 100% fuckered, I ordered a new rear minion at 60 % wear so basicaly when the knobs start chunking off its time to order another tire

My used tire could still have some worth as a back-up cuz especialy in the current parts availability situ cuz the tire I want might not be available

or heaven forbid I pay list

[skizix]

One last point on the sealant in tube… I haven’t seen it said so I think it’s obvious to some but.. that tube doesn’t creat a seal any the valve stem like your toobless valve stem… so yeah, it’s not any more layers of protection or whatever.


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Moot point, since the bead is not sealed at all (and actually the valve is sealed, being part of the tube). If the puncture in the tube itself does not seal (which it seems not to - too flexible/expansion-prone) I guess…you’re fooked it would seem.

[skaredshtles]

That tire is totally effed


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Nah... still get 1000 miles out that as a rear tire.

[jackstraw]

https://youtu.be/nrUUd-30Bzw

[grabtindy]

Run the tire, what's the worst that could happen?
https://twitter.com/APalmeroy/status...57585452290048

[grskier]

https://youtu.be/nrUUd-30Bzw

well played.