Rust removal and then inhibitors- what do you use?

[RShea]

Talking about things like Por 15 or other types of solutions- to not only remove the rust, but to try and keep it from returning so soon.

I have a few applications for it right now. First up though is a bike rack hitch receiver post that goes into the hitch tube. I have not used it in a few years but going to start up carrying them off the back again. I used to have to each year sand it down and do a coat of primer and then an outer coat of regular paint (just rattle can) and by the fall and when I'd pull it off for the winter season for the final time, it would be all rusted and sometimes have a hard time getting it on or off due to the new rust.

The old school use what you have around the house- Vinegar, Coke a Cola and other ways to remove the rust, like wire brush or wheel, sanding it down also to the metal.

Then there are these options:
Chemical dissolving like this stuff: Por 15 https://www.amazon.com/POR-15-40704-...7NRDPRR3/?th=1 or Evapo-Rust then from there it goes up to the multiple step processing from these companies and many other products- from Por or other brands (some autobody shop suppliers handle different brands also)

then after going with the chemicals- go right to Painting- primer, then top coat of Rustoleum or whatever.

So comments on what works from the collective Mag knowledge base.

[basinbeater]

Hit the rust hard with a chisel and a hammer. Then attack with a wire wheel. Then follow por15 instructions. Or hit with self etching primer and paint.

[old goat]

I have good hand tools--planes, chisels, carving tools, saws, etc--in an unheated garage in Sacramento. For removing rust I use Lee Valley rust erasers, which work beautifully. https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop...9-rust-erasers
For protection in the winter I spray with various things--T-9, WD 40 Dry lube. (I used to use Dry Cote but it's not available any more, it was the best).
For tools in drawers and closed cabinets I put mothballs in the with the tools--the fumes are supposed to protect against rust. And I save the moisture absorber packs--silica gel-- that come with a lot of stuff and leave in the cabinets and drawers, in the hope that the moisture will evaporate in the summer and the absorber will be ready to absorb more moisture in the winter. I don't know which of these methods work and which are wishful thinking, but my tools do pretty well.

[BCMtnHound]

Best rust inhibitor I’ve found so far is corrosion-X. I use it on my receiver hitch and ball since the powder coat has worn off, on aluminum where the clear coat has failed and filiform rust has started (airstream skin and Al alloy wheel rims), and any bolt under the vehicle that the winter seizes up. Expensive stuff, but just a little is usually needed and it lasts reasonably well.
https://www.corrosionx.com/products/corrosionx

[irul&ublo]

Rust Never Sleeps

[Mazderati]

Depends on the rust, the part, and the tools available. For more severe rust, needle scaler and grinder (not that kind) could be added to the hammer, screwdriver, etc mentioned above. For less severe rust, media blasting and chemical treatments.

Evapo-rust is good if the part can be removed and soaked. Naval jelly (not that kind) is good for parts that cannot. I like media blasting over convertors but it is more involved with the equipment and mess and may not even be better in some cases. Powder coating could be something to consider with the bike rack.

[bagtagley]

Por15 paint is good because you don’t have to go nuts removing all the rust, you just need to wire wheel the loose chunks and scale and apply directly (though if that makes you nervous, you can use some Metal-Ready first). I’d also coat everything with Boeshield before reinstalling the hitch.

Rust converters are similar as far as prep, but don’t seem to last as long, especially on stuff that loves to rust like that.