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Thread: Aluminium rims stuck to hubs
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05-10-2022, 09:26 PM #51
Might want to limit anti-seize to just the hub boss instead of the entire mating surface, since the clamping force and friction between the wheel and the hub (or rotor) is what keeps the wheel from shearing the lug studs during braking. If the mating surface is lubricated (or the nuts are loose), the studs could theoretically shear during hard braking, and things would get exciting in a hurry.
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05-11-2022, 09:41 AM #52
You don’t get galvanic corrosion with steel wheels. Have you noticed that everyone talking about stuck wheels has aluminum wheels?
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05-11-2022, 10:53 AM #53Registered User
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well of course its specificaly an aluminium wheels getting stuck on a steel hub and so while you are 100% correct, I'm not going to buy another set of steel rims
back in the day cars mostly came with steel wheels or at least the cars i bought so stuck wheels were not a problem with steel rims and i never had to deal with it on cars that I worked on as a teenager in a gas sation
it used to happen to me on my golf but not on my 4-runer, not sure about my ranger all of which had aluminium wheels
so for all those years the wheels may or may not have been stuck to the hub but you wouldn't know if you never had a flat and just let the tire dealer swap them, the nokian dealer used to do swap overs for free if the tires were nokian and on rims but they started charging to make mo money so I try to do wheel swaps myself the wheels are stuck and I realize if I was in the middle of nowhere with a flat I be fucked eh ? And actualy that happened on the golf coe tothink of it
the real question in my mind is why did I call you a dipshot ?
I wonder how many people will say the same thing as posted in the last 3 pages and if i will need to splain it all again ?Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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05-11-2022, 10:56 AM #54
If you have two sets of wheels for your car, winter and summer, the winter ones should be steel.
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05-11-2022, 10:57 AM #55
IMHO the real question is how many people need to keep telling you to go buy some anti-seize, apply it to the hub center bore where it contacts the wheel, and never worry about it again.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8007...337354522&th=1
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05-11-2022, 11:30 AM #56
This whole thread reminds me of Archer not understanding blimps
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05-11-2022, 11:35 AM #57Registered User
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well i heard it the 1st time and i have anti sieze I used for the thule rack
also got Lithium grease
but people have kept posting the same thing for 3 pages now,
and there should be another one any minute
even the buy steel wheels idea has been repeatedLast edited by XXX-er; 05-11-2022 at 12:09 PM.
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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05-11-2022, 12:03 PM #58Registered User
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05-12-2022, 06:25 AM #59
Are you guys still talking? Jesus Christ.
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10-24-2022, 09:20 PM #60Registered User
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I wonder how they are gona fuck-up this update, I expect another 3 pages of wankers who havent read the thread OR what I just updated
so I did the aluminium to steel swap and even with liberal app of anti sieze & die-electric grease the rears were still stuck to the rear hub but not so bad I couldn't get them off with some light tapping using a ball peen
the tennants kid was telling me about pounding on wheels for 1/2 an hr when he worked the tire shop
I might make that hole BIGGER on the aluminium wheelsLast edited by XXX-er; 10-24-2022 at 09:44 PM.
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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10-25-2022, 08:20 AM #61
Think twice about making the center bore bigger, some wheel/hubs are bore centric and some are lug centric.
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10-25-2022, 01:58 PM #62Registered User
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Having a tight bore centers the wheel more exactly than lugs. No vibrations at 150kmh+, not that you have roads or trucks that go over 80kmh up there. I had a wheelset with larger bore and sloppy centering rings. I had to be very careful when tightening the lugs or they would vibrate.
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11-06-2023, 02:42 PM #63Registered User
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So I think i figured it out, the rims are gona be tight enough that they are just gona freeze to the hub in spite of anti-sieze or wtf i put on them
so this time i beat them off using a ballpeen on the bottom inside of the rim where the marks won't show,
just a regular ball peen maybe a doz good smacks but i think it has to be the shock of metal hitting on metal (not metal on rubber) to work
I gotta start carrying a ball peen in case i get a flat during summer
it will be most interesting to see how many people don't/ didn't read the thread and just post shitLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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11-06-2023, 09:13 PM #64
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11-06-2023, 09:42 PM #65
XXXer have you tried kicking the wheel yet?
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11-06-2023, 10:20 PM #66
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11-07-2023, 06:30 AM #67
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11-07-2023, 06:52 AM #68
https://wiltontools.com/8-lb-30-b-a-...ad-blow-hammer
that’s my weapon of choice when I can’t get my wheels off. Jack truck up, lay under it on your side and let her have it from the backside.
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11-07-2023, 07:02 AM #69
Saw this on YT. It worked on my VW SportWagen. Loosen the lugs just so they are not against the wheel. Lower the vehicle off the Jack. Rock the vehicle side to side. Jack it back up and your wheels should be loose enough to get off.
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11-07-2023, 07:35 AM #70Registered User
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Ball peen??? Holy sheet.... Joey nails it above. Soft blow hammer on the inside of the wheel. Ice been doing this for 30 years. Never damaged a wheel. Clean the hub and wheel center with a stainless brush. Coat wheel center liberally with grease before installing the wheel.
Definitely a lot easier on a lift, but possible on jack stands. Make sure the vehicle is secure on stands so that you don't die....
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11-18-2023, 04:23 PM #71
Throw the new wheel you're throwing on there into the stuck wheel, pretty much always works the first toss
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