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  1. #1
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    Non-Plastic Hole Plugs - What are the options, and what are the results

    Hey Folks - I've been playing with this in my head for a while and wanted to gauge some opinions on the matter.

    Seems like most folks that are going to do a new mount on a ski that gets somewhat close will use a wood plug epoxied into place in order to provide more support onto the existing hole. I've heard of people using: "Hardwood", bamboo skewers, chopsticks, wood pulp/sawdust mixed with epoxy, or even chopped steel wool with epoxy.

    Are there other combinations that others have used outside of this immediate list?

    Additionally - while I've used hardwood dowels before for this, even partial snowmanning for an insert mount, what are the pros and cons with other combinations and how well do they work/hold over time?
    "Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds

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  2. #2
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    For one very tight mount (~1mm between holes) I screwed binding screws into the old holes and then trimmed them flush with a dremel.
    I generally fill old holes with epoxy, it can be tedious but I think it is a bomber option.

  3. #3
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    I use JB Weld wood epoxy. Stuffed into the holes and planed flat after curing. Treat ski as new


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  4. #4
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    I use blunted wood golf tees, with wood glue. Dremel flush to the surface after glue, dries. Dab paint over wood to seal.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwat View Post
    For one very tight mount (~1mm between holes) I screwed binding screws into the old holes and then trimmed them flush with a dremel.
    I generally fill old holes with epoxy, it can be tedious but I think it is a bomber option.
    I recall @1000-oaks first mentioning this.

    I did a similar thing with an old Swiss-cheese'd ski that had inserts.

    I mistakenly extracted the inserts (don't ask), and I sourced some 5/16-18 set screws (same thread pattern as inserts) - 5/16" long.

    I didn't want to bother with mixing up a batch of fiberglass and epoxy.

    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  6. #6
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    I've used hardwood dowel and Gflex epoxy with great results.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #7
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    It was a dark and stormy night when I discovered bamboo the BBQ skewers in my silver wear drawer

    I you are doing a remount whatever you use is not going to be as strong as a helicoil a newhole
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  8. #8
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    I have a buzzillion plastic plugs. PM me if you need a few. Jeebus - they ain't that expensive...
    Gravity. It's the law.

  9. #9
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    Wood even if sealed can absorb water, plastic and metal less so. Wood and plastic are less irritating to redrill

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MagnificentUnicorn View Post
    I use JB Weld wood epoxy. Stuffed into the holes and planed flat after curing. Treat ski as new


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    Assuming your talking about epoxy putty?

    I use marine epoxy putty.

    Although if I were drilling adjacent l, I’d use hardwood.


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  11. #11
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    YMMV but IME the silver JB weld putty on a ski top looks like ass

    trying to fill a hole with a more or less liquid slowset epoxy doesnt really work all that well cuz it impossible to completely fill the hole, you put some in and its good till it bubbles

    so I glue something in the hole, I don't expect to restore anything to the structure of the ski, whatever i glue in the hole is just taking up space and so the BBQ skewer are fine for this purpose

    so are plastic plugs or whatever is lying around
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  12. #12
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    I feel like there's a thread for this somewhere...
    Goal: ski in the 2018/19 season

  13. #13
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    skifisbum asked how the fuck do you end up with > 26000 posts ?

    its simple, I'm repeating info over & over,

    and quite often the info is 5 pages back in the thread im repeating it in

    SO if a thread is kind of old and has 6 pages that is probably enough that I have already written the answer 2 years ago/ 5 pages back, one could get all pissy about it or just give buddy the info
    Last edited by XXX-er; 04-08-2022 at 10:16 PM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by gwat View Post
    For one very tight mount (~1mm between holes) I screwed binding screws into the old holes and then trimmed them flush with a dremel.
    I use plastic plugs most of the time, but for close holes (even overlapping), critical locations (the rear screws on toe pieces), or valuable used skis, I use G/Flex epoxy with aluminum #12AB screws, then hachsaw and trim studs flush with an end mill. These are the same diameter and thread as steel ski screws, but a lot easier to cut and grind. No doubt a hacksaw and/or Dremel would also work, just don't let the screw get over 225 degrees and ruin the epoxy. Grind off the sharp point of the screws before installation, so you get full screw diameter deeper into the hole for maximum pullout resistance.

    Aluminum #12AB sheet metal screws have been virtually impossible to find. Bought a box of 50 almost ten years ago and have used them sparingly, been watching eBay for more ever since. It turns out 2022 is the year - two listings recently popped up so I bought a lifetime supply of 400. Have already used some and confirm that they are the correct screws.

    Here they are, #12AB aluminum screws:
    (50) #12 X 3/4 Slotted Pan Tapping Sheet Metal Screws Type-AB ALUMINUM 12 X .75

    (100) #12 X 3/4 Slotted Pan Tapping Sheet Metal Screws Type-AB ALUMINUM 12 X 3/4

    (#12, #12A, or #12B screws do not have the correct thread pitch - they have to be #12AB.)
    Last edited by 1000-oaks; 04-10-2022 at 09:41 AM.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by El Chupacabra View Post
    I use blunted wood golf tees, with wood glue. Dremel flush to the surface after glue, dries. Dab paint over wood to seal.
    Plus one on this…
    Quote Originally Posted by Shorty_J View Post
    I feel like there's a thread for this somewhere...
    And plus one on this…

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    Assuming your talking about epoxy putty?

    I use marine epoxy putty.

    Although if I were drilling adjacent l, I’d use hardwood.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Yeah, the epoxy putty. You can drill and tap it If needed. I’ve overlapped holes with good results


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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    I use plastic plugs most of the time, but for close holes (even overlapping), critical locations (the rear screws on toe pieces), or valuable used skis, I use G/Flex epoxy with aluminum #12AB screws, then hachsaw and trim studs flush with an end mill. These are the same diameter and thread as steel ski screws, but a lot easier to cut and grind. No doubt a hacksaw and/or Dremel would also work, just don't let the screw get over 225 degrees and ruin the epoxy. Grind off the sharp point of the screws before installation, so you get full screw diameter deeper into the hole for maximum pullout resistance.

    Aluminum #12AB sheet metal screws are virtually impossible to find. Found a box of 50 almost ten years ago and have used them sparingly, and have been watching eBay for more ever since. Turns out 2022 is the year - two listings recently popped up so I bought a lifetime supply of 400. Have already used some and confirm that they are the holy grail #12AB screws.

    Here they are:
    (50) #12 X 3/4 Slotted Pan Tapping Sheet Metal Screws Type-AB ALUMINUM 12 X .75

    (100) #12 X 3/4 Slotted Pan Tapping Sheet Metal Screws Type-AB ALUMINUM 12 X 3/4

    (#12, #12A, or #12B screws do not have the correct thread pitch - they have to be #12AB.)
    I appreciate how over the top this is. It's like pulling bindings to tune a touring ski, but actually useful. I might have to track down some aluminum 12AB's.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    skifisbum asked how the fuck do you end up with > 26000 posts ?

    its simple, I'm repeating info over & over,

    and quite often the info is 5 pages back in the thread im repeating it in

    SO if a thread is kind of old and has 6 pages that is probably enough that I have already written the answer 2 years ago/ 5 pages back, one could get all pissy about it or just give buddy the info
    you missed the part about all <26000 being stokeless blabber
    but keep doing you
    "When the child was a child it waited patiently for the first snow and it still does"- Van "The Man" Morrison
    "I find I have already had my reward, in the doing of the thing" - Buzz Holmstrom
    "THIS IS WHAT WE DO"-AML -ski on in eternal peace
    "I have posted in here but haven't read it carefully with my trusty PoliAsshat antenna on."-DipshitDanno

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by toast2266 View Post
    I appreciate how over the top this is. It's like pulling bindings to tune a touring ski, but actually useful. I might have to track down some aluminum 12AB's.
    Mounting a binding screw next to a plastic plug means only 75% of the thread diameter is actually anchored in the ski (or 50% if the screw overlaps the plastic plug), since plastic plugs pull out so easily. But mounting a binding screw next to another screw (with the threads interlocking) should get you more than 100% screw retention, because then you have two screws worth of threads in the ski. Hardly scientific, but that's the theory.

    The beauty of aluminum screws (vs steel) is they can be tapped in the case of overlapping holes. When drilling a new hole that overlaps an aluminum plug, be careful that the drill doesn't drift sideways into the softer fiberglass. This is a lot less likely to happen with metal topsheet skis, because the metal sheet helps keep the drill in position. For non-metal skis, it might be safer to drill your new holes next to the aluminum plugs, instead of overlapping them.

    Here they are, #12AB aluminum screws:
    (50) #12 X 3/4 Slotted Pan Tapping Sheet Metal Screws Type-AB ALUMINUM 12 X .75

    (100) #12 X 3/4 Slotted Pan Tapping Sheet Metal Screws Type-AB ALUMINUM 12 X 3/4

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    Mounting a binding screw next to a plastic plug means only 75% of the thread diameter is actually anchored in the ski (or 50% if the screw overlaps the plastic plug), since plastic plugs pull out so easily. But mounting a binding screw next to another screw (with the threads interlocking) should get you more than 100% screw retention, because then you have two screws worth of threads in the ski. Hardly scientific, but that's the theory.

    The beauty of aluminum screws (vs steel) is they can be tapped in the case of overlapping holes. When drilling a new hole that overlaps an aluminum plug, be careful that the drill doesn't drift sideways into the softer fiberglass. This is a lot less likely to happen with metal topsheet skis, because the metal sheet helps keep the drill in position. For non-metal skis, it might be safer to drill your new holes next to the aluminum plugs, instead of overlapping them.

    Here they are, #12AB aluminum screws:
    (50) #12 X 3/4 Slotted Pan Tapping Sheet Metal Screws Type-AB ALUMINUM 12 X .75

    (100) #12 X 3/4 Slotted Pan Tapping Sheet Metal Screws Type-AB ALUMINUM 12 X 3/4
    This is why I use JB Weld epoxy wood putty in old holes. You can drill and tap.


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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by skifishbum View Post
    you missed the part about all <26000 being stokeless blabber
    but keep doing you
    you wrote something that was readable
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by MagnificentUnicorn View Post
    This is why I use JB Weld epoxy wood putty in old holes. You can drill and tap.
    Good stuff, probably almost as good as screws, and easier to drill and tap. How soft is that putty? Is it liquid enough to fully flow into the threads left behind in the ski, or do you think it's more like 50% keyed into the threads?

  23. #23
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    You have to push it into the hole. 0 flow

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    you wrote something that was readable

    ya it still wasn’t useful though, same old bullshit blabber from SFB

  25. #25
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    Non-Plastic Hole Plugs - What are the options, and what are the results

    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    Good stuff, probably almost as good as screws, and easier to drill and tap. How soft is that putty? Is it liquid enough to fully flow into the threads left behind in the ski, or do you think it's more like 50% keyed into the threads?
    I pack it in the hole with a small metal rod. I’ve drilled adjacent or overlapping holes and haven’t had any problems. I would think most of the voids are filled. Mainly I want something structural in the hole that’s waterproof.


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