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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
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    9

    Do you go touring with a rope?

    Hey all,

    I'm looking to add a rope into my ski touring kit and am interested to hear if anyone brings a rope touring when you're not expecting to encounter terrain that would normally require one (such as glaciers or couloirs). If so, what type of rope do you pack, what protection/slings/hardware do you bring alongside a rope and in what scenarios do you feel okay leaving your rope at home? Or do you think carrying a rope is overkill most of the time?

    Here's a little backstory on this question. I was recently out with some friends with intentions to ski a fairly mellow line in the alpine. The visibility was slightly variable and we accidentally ended up one saddle over from where we intended to be. This led to two of my partners skiing off a small cornice, having to climb back over it, falling into a crevasse above the edge of the cornice then having to climb out of that. It was a stressful day, to say the least. We had a long piece of paracord that came in handy when assisting/belaying our friends while they climbed the cornice and crevasse, but it was certainly not the right tool for the job.

    After this experience, I want to start packing rope, or at least when I'm going into the alpine. I'm looking for something that you can safely repel or hoist off of, thick enough to easily hold but also doesn't take up too much space in my pack. My initial thoughts are:
    - 30m of ~8mm dynamic twin-rated rope or 6-7mm static cord (Edelrid Starling Pro or Petzl RAD)
    - 2 locking carabiners
    - 2 120mm Dyneema slings
    - z-drag kit - microtrax and tibloc (maybe?)
    - 1 ice screw (maybe?)

    Note: I know that the best way to manage the risk of a similar accident is better planning, better communication and better knowledge of crevasses. Bringing a rope is not the real takeaway here. With that said, things don't always go according to plan and when they don't, ropes can be an invaluable tool.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    London Mountain
    Posts
    1,004
    If I'm going to be on a glacier, I'll bring my 30 metre skinny rope (RAD kit), and enough gack to build a 3:1, plus 1 ice screw

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    26,903
    I was skiing with a guide who got us slightly cliffed thru some trees so he pulls out 10 M of 3mm cord, not enough to support a climber but lotsa uses and it sure was nice to help get us down he said " sorry about that just leave the rope there " so i started carrying a small amount of rope

    i could see lots of uses making an emergency climbing skin, fixing gear ect
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Paradise
    Posts
    4,320
    20 to 25 feet of P-chord, two or three paperclips and some chewing gum usually do the trick for me.
    dirtbag, not a dentist

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,530

    Do you go touring with a rope?

    Just get the Petzl RAD kit. It’s got 30m of 6mm cord, a couple Dyneema slings and the pulleys/biners. Whole kit is a little over a pound and packs into about 2l stuff sack. Your described use is exactly what it was made for.

    I wouldn’t waste time with an ice screw.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    cordova,AK
    Posts
    3,258
    OP are you talking about crevasses on a glacier? Are you referring to the space created by the cornice pulling away from the mountain as a crevasse?
    off your knees Louie

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2019
    Location
    Jasper, AB
    Posts
    175
    The RAD kit is exactly what your looking for. Easy to share it as group gear too when packaged up.

    To answer your question, no, I don’t carry a rope when not expecting or intending terrain that requires it, but I do always have some webbing, biners, and cord mainly to be used with the rescue tarp/sled but could be used in a pinch if needed I suppose.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Basalt
    Posts
    4,780
    Charles Bronson always has a rope…


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    "We had nice 3 days in your autonomous mountain realm last weekend." - Tom from Austria (the Rax ski guy)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by BFD View Post
    OP are you talking about crevasses on a glacier? Are you referring to the space created by the cornice pulling away from the mountain as a crevasse?
    The latter. I supposed that isn't technically a crevasse. Is there a better term for it?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I was skiing with a guide who got us slightly cliffed thru some trees so he pulls out 10 M of 3mm cord, not enough to support a climber but lotsa uses and it sure was nice to help get us down he said " sorry about that just leave the rope there " so i started carrying a small amount of rope

    i could see lots of uses making an emergency climbing skin, fixing gear ect
    How tall was this cliff? Lowering off 3mm cord sounds terrifying. Also you bring up a good point about repairs.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2022
    Posts
    9
    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
    Just get the Petzl RAD kit. It’s got 30m of 6mm cord, a couple Dyneema slings and the pulleys/biners. Whole kit is a little over a pound and packs into about 2l stuff sack. Your described use is exactly what it was made for.

    I wouldn’t waste time with an ice screw.
    Thanks for saying how much volume your kit takes up (i.e. litres). I'm not overly concerned about weight but I do feel like I never have enough space in my pack for what I would like to bring.


    One thing I did noticed about the RAD kit was that it comes with a micro-traxion which is only rated on ropes down to 8mm. How are they able to sell it along side a rope that is 6mm?

    Either way, I think I'll probably go this route. I'll going to go through my gear room first and see if I can piece most of this together instead of buying the kit. Gotta save money where you can.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,530
    Quote Originally Posted by readyshreddy View Post
    Thanks for saying how much volume your kit takes up (i.e. litres). I'm not overly concerned about weight but I do feel like I never have enough space in my pack for what I would like to bring.


    One thing I did noticed about the RAD kit was that it comes with a micro-traxion which is only rated on ropes down to 8mm. How are they able to sell it along side a rope that is 6mm?

    Either way, I think I'll probably go this route. I'll going to go through my gear room first and see if I can piece most of this together instead of buying the kit. Gotta save money where you can.
    Petzl rates it for their 6mm RAD line but other brands only down to 8mm. I’ve played around with it, it grips just fine.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Squaw valley
    Posts
    3,859
    Super munter works well with a 5.5 mm rope for rappelling.

    Sent from my moto g 5G using Tapatalk

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Donner Lake
    Posts
    406
    I carry 30m 6mm with light weight harness, sling, belay device and 2 carabiners. I also carry an ice screw but I have never used it. I am thinking about swapping the ice screw for a few wire nuts. As there isn't a lot of ice at my regular spots.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    4 Time Balboa Open Champion

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    14,096
    Quote Originally Posted by readyshreddy View Post
    The latter. I supposed that isn't technically a crevasse. Is there a better term for it?
    Bergschrund

    Though I haven’t carried them when I’m not expecting these kinds of problems a snow picket or a deadman would be useful.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    26,903
    Quote Originally Posted by readyshreddy View Post
    How tall was this cliff? Lowering off 3mm cord sounds terrifying. Also you bring up a good point about repairs.
    not very so we weren't in the air much, we didnt have harnesses the rope was just a helper to hold on to so the guide could get his group down without drama and it worked cuz everybody got down upright
    Last edited by XXX-er; 03-06-2022 at 12:04 PM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
    Posts
    541
    anybody have experience using the micro T repeatedly on the same rope?
    Im curious if the aggressive teeth eventually damage the sheath

    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Ashford
    Posts
    115
    Quote Originally Posted by romeo tango View Post
    anybody have experience using the micro T repeatedly on the same rope?
    Im curious if the aggressive teeth eventually damage the sheath

    .
    I use it as a backup device in my TR solo setup and haven't had any issues. My primary device (Camp Lift) is toothless however, which helps prevent any sheath damage during falls

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Posts
    354
    Your gear list sounds good as an emergency kit. Depending on the terrain I would consider a picket as well. I'd make the slings wide to be more comfortable as a harness. If you are going more mellow, I have 10m of 5mm for a handline that I will bring on scramble trips sometimes, depending on the crowd. Never had to use it but confident it would get me out of a jam.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Kootenays
    Posts
    1,443
    Quote Originally Posted by readyshreddy View Post
    One thing I did noticed about the RAD kit was that it comes with a micro-traxion which is only rated on ropes down to 8mm. How are they able to sell it along side a rope that is 6mm?
    Petzl's got a page about that.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    1,951
    Quote Originally Posted by raisingarizona13 View Post
    20 to 25 feet of P-chord, two or three paperclips and some chewing gum usually do the trick for me.
    Did you get that from MacGyver?
    "True love is much easier to find with a helicopter"

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    outer spokanistan
    Posts
    541
    [QUOTE=Jeb McHardman;6563170] .... a backup device in my TR solo setup ..../QUOTE]

    thanks for the feedback Jeb ....

    what i meant was repeated use of a micro T loaded,
    say, an instructor who uses the micro T on the same rope to teach 2:1 or 3:1 systems
    curious what the accumulated wear is, if any ....

    i used to use a Camp Lift to rope solo but didnt feel confident with the 100 kg rating
    switched to Petzl Rescucender

    .
    "we all do dumb shit when we're fucked up"
    mike tyson

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    NW WA
    Posts
    287
    [QUOTE=romeo tango;6563909]
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeb McHardman View Post
    .... a backup device in my TR solo setup ..../QUOTE]

    thanks for the feedback Jeb ....

    what i meant was repeated use of a micro T loaded,
    say, an instructor who uses the micro T on the same rope to teach 2:1 or 3:1 systems
    curious what the accumulated wear is, if any ....

    i used to use a Camp Lift to rope solo but didnt feel confident with the 100 kg rating
    switched to Petzl Rescucender

    .
    Since the MicroT is spring loaded it shouldn't be a problem. I've heard anecdotally that non-teethed ascenders actually cause more damage than teethed (toothed? toothy?) ones due to slippage of the rope during the initial loading. I'm always more concerned whenever using a first-gen tibloc because it's pretty easy to scrape it down the rope when initially loading if you're not careful about the alignment of the carabiner.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,042
    [QUOTE=gavinski91;6564706]
    Quote Originally Posted by romeo tango View Post

    Since the MicroT is spring loaded it shouldn't be a problem. I've heard anecdotally that non-teethed ascenders actually cause more damage than teethed (toothed? toothy?) ones due to slippage of the rope during the initial loading. I'm always more concerned whenever using a first-gen tibloc because it's pretty easy to scrape it down the rope when initially loading if you're not careful about the alignment of the carabiner.
    Ya heard the same thing, albeit from a Petzl rep.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Posts
    270
    You don't need a rope when you go ski touring, unless you will be on a glacier or know that you will likely need to belay or rappel. And if the latter, you will need a lot more than just the rope (but never a picket, just saying - a stuff sack and a sling will generally do the same job). Don't drop into lines you can't see, and you should be good.

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