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Thread: Climbing Skins

  1. #51
    Join Date
    Feb 2019
    Location
    Ellensburg
    Posts
    1,241
    I just reglued a free pair of older G3s with BD gold label... Pretty smooth operation if you have a heat gun, putty knife, and a place to tack the skin down. This was my second skin reglue. I pulled the center strips and reused. After removing all the old glue, I ran a continuous bead of new glue down one side of the skin about an inch from the edge, then flattened/spread it with the putty knife. Then repeated on the other side, prioritizing getting glue all the way to the edge, but not over.

    There were a couple high and low spots after it dried the next day, so I laid parchment paper on top and ironed on medium to flatten it out. Looks almost new, got to try them out this weekend, no issues at all.

    That gold label glue has heinous fumes so this is best done outside or with a respirator. If you're going to use a respirator use a full face because the vapors go through your eyes too.

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  2. #52
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,476
    When cutting skins sometimes the glue sticks to the cutting tool. I am thinking to spray some water with soap on the tool to improve glide. The soap wont damage the glue, right?

    Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

  3. #53
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,023
    the skin cutting tools are idiot proof but IME an olfa razor knife does a cleaner less sticky job than those cutting tools and then just snap a new blade but you gotta reposition the skin
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  4. #54
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    115
    So I'm wondering what way/shape to cut the skin at the tip that would be best for not getting any snow under the skin? I've tried different ones but haven't come to a conclusion myself.

  5. #55
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Salida, CO
    Posts
    200
    Quote Originally Posted by LawndartGustav View Post
    So I'm wondering what way/shape to cut the skin at the tip that would be best for not getting any snow under the skin? I've tried different ones but haven't come to a conclusion myself.
    I like the tip shape of the Contour skins. It comes away from the tip attachment and tapers in a way that keeps the skin edges well away from the ski edge until you want the coverage, discouraging snow creep. I keep an old paper Contour trim template around and use this to cut other skin tips with a sharp knife. The paper template is getting a bit ragged, thought about using it to make a more durable template out of thin plastic sheet or something like that.
    Sawatch is French for scratchy.

  6. #56
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    263
    Quote Originally Posted by LawndartGustav View Post
    So I'm wondering what way/shape to cut the skin at the tip that would be best for not getting any snow under the skin? I've tried different ones but haven't come to a conclusion myself.
    A narrower tip shape that exposes some base seems to work really well in my opinion.

    Additionally. Tension is important. I find most people could move their tail clip in a notch or two (tail straps stretcha but) and run their skins with more tension on them and they would have less issues with snow creep and with attachment failure during multiple laps.

  7. #57
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Tahoe-ish
    Posts
    3,147
    I agree that a bit more tension would be good. It's too bad that the Euro skins' infinitely adjustable tail straps suck so much. If they would stay at the chosen setting, they would be great. The BD style ones' setting increments are too large.
    ride bikes, climb, ski, travel, cook, work to fund former, repeat.

  8. #58
    Join Date
    Oct 2021
    Location
    Serre Chevalier
    Posts
    9
    Has anyone tried the Contour Hybrid Free Split Skin?
    I've done a DIY version of this before (cutting your skin in half and removing the middle) but the tail clip situation was a bit dodgy (no tail clip at first and then poor tension).

  9. #59
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,364
    Quote Originally Posted by LawndartGustav View Post
    So I'm wondering what way/shape to cut the skin at the tip that would be best for not getting any snow under the skin? I've tried different ones but haven't come to a conclusion myself.
    Shortest line from the tip fixture to where the skin actually contacts the snow, although I usually curve it somewhat. I freehand cut one side, then flip the free piece over and stick it on the other side to cut that one.

  10. #60
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    2,466
    I've been an outspoken fan of Contour Hybrid adhesive and had great results with it over ~150 days touring. I just got a new pair cut for a new pair of skis and just after cutting the skins they are leaving this residue on the skis. Has anyone else had this happen?

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  11. #61
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,023
    that ^^ is fairly common on skins with the hot glue but its suposed to never happen with not hot glue

    try for warranty
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  12. #62
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    5,364
    I only have one pair of Contour Hybrids and they came off totally clean after cutting . . .

  13. #63
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    SLC burbs
    Posts
    4,193
    Damn, first time skins go on the skia and this? I'd say email warranty with a pic and a bit old wft.
    Unless you were cutting the skins inside an oven this does not bode well for the future.
    "Your wife being mad is temporary, but pow turns do not get unmade" - mallwalker the wise

  14. #64
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    SLC
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    2,466
    Quote Originally Posted by Boissal View Post
    Damn, first time skins go on the skia and this? I'd say email warranty with a pic and a bit old wft.
    Unless you were cutting the skins inside an oven this does not bode well for the future.
    Its not really sticky so I might just run em and hope for the best. I bought them from Hagan, so Contour support directed me to them. I've had great experience with CAMP/Contour warranty in the past but hopefully Hagan will help me out with this if necessary.

  15. #65
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,958

    Climbing Skins

    It looks like the BD recall for skin glue last year was on Ascension skins only? Anybody successfully negotiate a warranty return on Glidelites?

    I’ve got a pair of Glidelites that have maybe ten days on them (bought 4/2021). They’ve been super babied, always hung immediately to dry (never over heat) and stored on cheat sheets. The glue has always sucked on them (way too sticky; feeling like I was going to snap a ski core trying to pull them off freshly waxed skis) but have turned entirely gloppy in the last three tours. Glue is coming off the skin and is entirely hydrolyzed.

    Yeah I could try the ironing and I could reglue them but I’d rather bitch online about it. I reached out to Bd but wondering if anybody here had the issue with skins from last year.

  16. #66
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    SLC
    Posts
    2,466
    Sorry to hear that Falcon. Following up on my hybrid issue, after skiing the residue came right off and hasn’t showed up again. My friend recently cut a pair of hybrids on freshly waxed skis and had the same non-sticky residue and it came right off for him as well. Still ride or die with contour

  17. #67
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Not Brooklyn
    Posts
    8,349
    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
    It looks like the BD recall for skin glue last year was on Ascension skins only? Anybody successfully negotiate a warranty return on Glidelites?

    I’ve got a pair of Glidelites that have maybe ten days on them (bought 4/2021). They’ve been super babied, always hung immediately to dry (never over heat) and stored on cheat sheets. The glue has always sucked on them (way too sticky; feeling like I was going to snap a ski core trying to pull them off freshly waxed skis) but have turned entirely gloppy in the last three tours. Glue is coming off the skin and is entirely hydrolyzed.

    Yeah I could try the ironing and I could reglue them but I’d rather bitch online about it. I reached out to Bd but wondering if anybody here had the issue with skins from last year.
    I convinced BD to replace a pair of newish skis with bad glue about 10 years ago. I just explained how different they were than other BD skins I had owned.

  18. #68
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,958
    Quote Originally Posted by I've seen black diamonds! View Post
    I convinced BD to replace a pair of newish skis with bad glue about 10 years ago. I just explained how different they were than other BD skins I had owned.
    Good news! BD is replacing my skins, I also used this tack when describing the issue to them.

  19. #69
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Portland, OR
    Posts
    565
    $95 for a pair of g3 alpinist+grip was too cheap to pass up. After 12years cycling through BD’s and seeing friends struggle in the field with G3’s it was a tough decision to try them out. I unboxed the new G3’s alpinist today and the glue ripped off the skin and was stuck to the plastic protector.

    TLDR: G3 glue is still garbage

  20. #70
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Posts
    707
    Quote Originally Posted by Falcon3 View Post
    It looks like the BD recall for skin glue last year was on Ascension skins only? Anybody successfully negotiate a warranty return on Glidelites?
    Haven't been following recalls, wife has a new pair of 22' glidelites in the box for a new setup this winter. Just ordered them from BD last month...so should be good?

    We have a few pairs of 18/19 glidlites going strong with ~ 200 days on the original glue

    Why does buying skins have to be a gamble?

  21. #71
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Posts
    6,097
    I've used BSMP skins for over 10 years.
    (Formerly known as Climbing Skins Direct, now Big Sky Mountain Products.)
    https://www.skiskinsonline.com/

    I've never had a glue issue and I've never had to use cheat sheets.
    They have marginally less grip than orange Ascensions but glide MUCH better. As in, blindingly obvious when you're skinning next to someone on Ascensions.
    The plush is stout and has stood up to the occasional skin over dirt and rocks.
    They don't come in lengths: you cut them to length.
    Back when they used the rubber tip stretchers, I blew out a pair after a season and they sent me extras right away, no questions asked. They've improved the attachment system since then.
    They've always worked well for me and I have no desire to try anything else.

  22. #72
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Portland by way of Bozeman
    Posts
    4,279
    Interesting to hear that everyone has largely moved away from the BD skins. I'm still rocking two different pairs of Ascensions - no glue issues, no tip or tail attachment issues, and the skins have held up very well. I attribute that to the beefier material at the expense of weight and glide friction. I know that when my next AT trip rolls around, I can pull either off the shelf and know either will work for the duration of the trip. Maybe I'm not getting radical enough?

  23. #73
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,023
    if you are gona tour you should learn to re-glue then it doesnt matter which skins you buy you will be regluing with gold label

    unless you go the hybrid route
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  24. #74
    Join Date
    Mar 2022
    Posts
    830
    I'm new to this uphill stuff. Did a bunch of inbounds skinning for exercise last season.

    The 2 designated skin track options at the resort both have some fairly steep sections and in most conditions I eventually have trouble not slipping backwards and need to put a fair amount of weight on my poles. Can't really choose a gentler line/add switchbacks when the resort is open as I have to stick to the allowed edge of the runs.

    Would switching to a full nylon skin help here? I have Pomoca climb pro S-glides (70/30 mohair/nylon) and they glide real good in the flat sections, but there aren't many of those inbounds. I certainly do see a lot of BD Ascensions on other people's skis.

  25. #75
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    13,915
    Quote Originally Posted by singlesline View Post
    I'm new to this uphill stuff. Did a bunch of inbounds skinning for exercise last season.

    The 2 designated skin track options at the resort both have some fairly steep sections and in most conditions I eventually have trouble not slipping backwards and need to put a fair amount of weight on my poles. Can't really choose a gentler line/add switchbacks when the resort is open as I have to stick to the allowed edge of the runs.

    Would switching to a full nylon skin help here? I have Pomoca climb pro S-glides (70/30 mohair/nylon) and they glide real good in the flat sections, but there aren't many of those inbounds. I certainly do see a lot of BD Ascensions on other people's skis.
    BD Ascensions definitely grip better than the Pomocas. Of course, they also don't glide as well, they weigh more, and they don't pack down as small.

    I know the spots you're talking about. Usually if it's slippy, I'll just cut in a switchback or two in the trees just off the to side of the designated route. Or better yet, if the lifts are spinning, I'll just bump a lift over to flower and skin a couple laps back in the canyon where the snow's better and I don't have to worry about some out of control gaper taking me out.

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