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  1. #1
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    Jan 2008
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    Long term care for “nicer” leather gloves (Hestra’s, BDs, Oyukis, etc…)

    What is the maggot approved product/method for conditioning and waterproofing nicer leather gloves?

    I bought a nice pair of Oyuki’s last season after a decade of snoseal baking Kinco’s… They came with a pouch of Nikwax Waterproofing, which I used, but what to use for ongoing conditioning?

    - Snoseal?
    - Obenaufs? (the Oil, LP is too greasy)
    - Nikwax?
    - Hestra Balm?

    Bake? Hair drier? Just apply and go?




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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    3,064
    Snoseal kinda sux.
    My untreated Kinco's have lasted longer and performed better(you lose that dexterous as fuck quality w/ snoseal-hardens the leather) than my snosealed Kinco's . Snoseal is for boots

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
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    shadow of HS butte
    Posts
    6,425

    Long term care for “nicer” leather gloves (Hestra’s, BDs, Oyukis, etc…)

    I’d say the break in process is longer with snoseal or you over baked em. I have two pairs of 9 year old flylow gloves that have seen nothing but snoseal and they are dexterous as fuck.

    I have a backup pair from about 5 years ago that I think I over baked a bit and they are completely different than the other two



    My .02

    Snoseal, bake on the first round then use hairdryer for reapplications

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
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    5,364
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    What is the maggot approved product/method for conditioning and waterproofing nicer leather gloves?

    I bought a nice pair of Oyuki’s last season after a decade of snoseal baking Kinco’s… They came with a pouch of Nikwax Waterproofing, which I used, but what to use for ongoing conditioning?

    - Snoseal?
    - Obenaufs? (the Oil, LP is too greasy)
    - Nikwax?
    - Hestra Balm?

    Bake? Hair drier? Just apply and go?
    Keep using the Nikwax "Waterproofing Wax for Leather", just rub it on and let dry - I do it once a year. Don't get the Nikwax spray on glove product.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    31,028
    the oven can overdo it so hair dryer or heat gun held between the knees, put the gloves on, scoop out some beeswax kind of product and rub it in
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    the ham
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    13,385
    Quote Originally Posted by nickwm21 View Post
    ongoing conditioning?

    - Obenaufs? (the Oil, LP is too greasy)
    Definitely Obenaufs for conditioning. Or Bick 4. Then follow up with one the the wax products.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
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    5,562
    Is your goal to ‘waterproof’ them, or just take care of the leather to keep it from drying/cracking?

    I’ve found that no matter how much snoseal I put on my Hestra’s they aren’t waterproof, and I did find that it made the gloves stiffer. Now I don’t bother trying to make them waterproof and just wear different gloves with a waterproof membrane if I’m going to be out on a day when I’m worried the Hestra’s might soak through (usually snowing heavy wet snow).

    For general conditioning any leather/hand balm should be fine. Something with oils/butters/waxes.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    idaho panhandle!
    Posts
    9,981
    Kenetrek boot wax.
    Put hairdryer between knees and turn on.
    Put on gloves.
    Grab a glob of kenetrek wax and rub it in.
    Ovens are for pies

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Last Best City in the Last Best Place
    Posts
    7,330
    And leather gloves are for yard work.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Idaho
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    11,000
    Quote Originally Posted by 2FUNKY View Post
    Kenetrek boot wax.
    Put hairdryer between knees and turn on.
    Put on gloves.
    Grab a glob of kenetrek wax and rub it in.
    Ovens are for pies
    This on all accounts.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    inpdx
    Posts
    20,238
    Ovens have a low setting — ours is 170 degs
    Works great
    I put a piece of 1/2” cab plywood in there to not get wax on the inside of the oven
    I set multiple gloves in there and pull them out to work on them
    You can even crack the door if you want

    Running a hair dryer on gloves sounds tedious as fuck trying to melt wax reasonably quickly, not to mention likely adds to the drying effect

    Just my $0.02

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    184
    I use the free the powder balm. Works great.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Wasatch
    Posts
    1,998

    Long term care for “nicer” leather gloves (Hestra’s, BDs, Oyukis, etc…)

    I run a variety of Kinco and FTP leather gloves. Heat oven to 225 then turn it off. Gloves on cookie sheet for 10 minutes. Pull them out, reheat oven and turn off again. lube gloves thoroughly with Obenaufs LP beeswax treatment. Back in oven for 30min. Repeat. Gloves are buttery smooth and reasonably water resistant. Don’t use too much product.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
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    5,562
    Quote Originally Posted by Flippo View Post
    I use the free the powder balm. Works great.
    This looks like a perfectly good balm, but the glove/boot balm game must be a great game to be in. Buy ingredients for a few bucks/lb, melt and stir, sell for $64/lb.

    Started making my own balm some time ago because of this.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Wasatch
    Posts
    1,998
    DeJong’s balm. “Maggot made. Trusted by jongs worldwide.”

    Got a nice ring to it.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Bellevue
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    7,449
    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    This looks like a perfectly good balm, but the glove/boot balm game must be a great game to be in. Buy ingredients for a few bucks/lb, melt and stir, sell for $64/lb.

    Started making my own balm some time ago because of this.
    Why not just use the tubs of chain wax you have to heat up occasionally?

  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Ogden
    Posts
    9,158
    Quote Originally Posted by 2FUNKY View Post
    Kenetrek boot wax.
    Put hairdryer between knees and turn on.
    Put on gloves.
    Grab a glob of kenetrek wax and rub it in.
    Ovens are for pies
    I’ve been using the Kenetrek wax as well. I had some on hand for my boots and it spreads easier than nikwax or snoseal.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2016
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    关你屁事
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    9,594
    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    This looks like a perfectly good balm, but the glove/boot balm game must be a great game to be in. Buy ingredients for a few bucks/lb, melt and stir, sell for $64/lb.

    Started making my own balm some time ago because of this.
    And if you really want to up your margin, dilute them with a solvent. You can even use water (nikwax).


    and yes, it’s easy to make these things. A cheap hot plate, beaker, glass stir stick. Snoseal used ta be 1:2 beeswax:naptha I think.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
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    5,562
    Quote Originally Posted by jmedslc View Post
    DeJong’s balm. “Maggot made. Trusted by jongs worldwide.”

    Got a nice ring to it.
    *note: DeJong balm does not contain actual maggots, human or insect.

    if anyone wants to pay me $8/oz for my balm, I’m happy to oblige. Started when I tried a climbing balm when my hands were cracking in winter, and it worked, but couldn’t justify the cost, so started making it myself. Like what I’m making better than what I had bought as well.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
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    5,562
    Quote Originally Posted by abraham View Post
    Why not just use the tubs of chain wax you have to heat up occasionally?
    would the tungsten disulfide in the chain wax help me ski faster? If so, may need to try that… but actually not going to try that

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
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    5,562
    Quote Originally Posted by dunfree View Post
    And if you really want to up your margin, dilute them with a solvent. You can even use water (nikwax).


    and yes, it’s easy to make these things. A cheap hot plate, beaker, glass stir stick. Snoseal used ta be 1:2 beeswax:naptha I think.
    yeah. So I mainly make mine for use on hands and feet, it just happens to be basically the same stuff that’s made for leather as well, so I use it there too. Not too high on the idea of slathering mineral spirits on my skin daily.

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Posts
    184
    Quote Originally Posted by abraham View Post
    Why not just use the tubs of chain wax you have to heat up occasionally?
    8$ and I have enough for a season or two. That's cheap enough so I don't spend my time sourcing the ingredients and making my own.

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Jun 2020
    Posts
    5,562
    Quote Originally Posted by Flippo View Post
    8$ and I have enough for a season or two. That's cheap enough so I don't spend my time sourcing the ingredients and making my own.
    Agreed, if that’s all you need. Still nice to be the manufacturer of that product though.

  24. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Posts
    2,492
    Both gloves on, glob of snoseal or ilk, open door to woodstove, and lather 'em up. Let cool then repeat heat and lather once or twice more, only adding snoseal if needed.

  25. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    11,212
    Soak in queso?

    Adds a nice orange sheen, smells great, has added calories in desperate times.

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