Page 4 of 6 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4 5 6 LastLast
Results 76 to 100 of 137
  1. #76
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Grandma's Basement
    Posts
    1,192
    Quote Originally Posted by Benneke10 View Post
    Fresh razor blade or Xacto knife, way more precise than the cutters the skin companies include
    Agreed - the BD offset process with the Pomoca skins is a better method than the tool that comes with G3 or Pomoca skins.
    "Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds

    www.experiencedgear.net

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,881
    Quote Originally Posted by Benneke10 View Post
    Fresh razor blade or Xacto knife, way more precise than the cutters the skin companies include
    I agree ^^ shifting the skin and using an olfa box cutter makes a cleaner edge than the G3 tool

    on the other hand I watched a roomie who should not be allowed to own tools trim his skins without fucking them up so in that sense the tool does work

    the pomocas i do own were lazer cut for Dynafit Stokes and Denali, good skins and thats about as light as i think skins should be in the interest of durability
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,469
    Fuck it, it's time to get this off my chest. With my first skins, I tried the BD method. I fucked up big time. I offset the cut side and cut it again. Since then, I always had good results with the G3 cutter. The skis I cut the pomocas for had serrated edges. I suspect that is what contributed to the poor cut. 

    Any suggestions on how to do the offset method? Remember, I only want to shave 1 mm on each side. I am pretty clutzy at keeping the blade angle steady. Should I install the skins with the offset and clamp the skis facing down on a 2x4 to get a more exact cut?

    Are OLFA all that? I see most drywallers use them, that's a serious endorsement. Too bad it would mess with my milwaukee red serenity. What about blades? I have the general purpose milwaukee blades, and they suck. The tip breaks off with light use. It looks like there are some blade options at HD:

    1. OLFA ultra sharp heavy duty

    2. Milwaukee drywall "up to 2x sharper"

    3. Dewalt carbide (really?) edge

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,881
    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    Fuck it, it's time to get this off my chest. With my first skins, I tried the BD method. I fucked up big time. I offset the cut side and cut it again. Since then, I always had good results with the G3 cutter. The skis I cut the pomocas for had serrated edges. I suspect that is what contributed to the poor cut. 

    Any suggestions on how to do the offset method? Remember, I only want to shave 1 mm on each side. I am pretty clutzy at keeping the blade angle steady. Should I install the skins with the offset and clamp the skis facing down on a 2x4 to get a more exact cut?

    Are OLFA all that? I see most drywallers use them, that's a serious endorsement. Too bad it would mess with my milwaukee red serenity. What about blades? I have the general purpose milwaukee blades, and they suck. The tip breaks off with light use. It looks like there are some blade options at HD:

    1. OLFA ultra sharp heavy duty

    2. Milwaukee drywall "up to 2x sharper"

    3. Dewalt carbide (really?) edge
    hard to beat an olfa knife IME/IMO use a fresh blade you can always snap a new blade in the middle of the job

    if I read your post correctly you did 2 cuts on the same side so then you don't really need to take 1mm off each side, just cut a 2mm slice off the side you misteakenly did't cut ??

    I would glue the skin to the base where i want the cut ( measure twice cut once !! ) with the ski base/ plush pointing upwards on my ski jig the glue should hold it well enough for the cut and its possible to shave off very skinny pieces

    hold the olfa knife as close to 90degree from base as possible hard/ against the ski edge and make the cut pushing theolfa downwards, you probably won't be able to make one big cut so do the cut making a series of short strokes d pushing towards the edge with an olfa knife
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,469
    The double offset fuckup was a long time ago on different skins.

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Jan 2012
    Location
    Juneau
    Posts
    1,093
    Quote Originally Posted by twoturn View Post
    Any updates on free 2.0’s? Holding up? Shit grip? Shit glide?
    I have a year in with the Climb Free 2.0s (orange) and Climb Pro-S Glide (minty green). Very happy with both. The Free 2.0s have amazing grip but little glide. The Pro-S Glides have the best compromise of grip/glide of any skin I've used, at least for maritime snow conditions. I agree that the tips and tails are chintzy, which is annoying for a $200 product. Zero issues with the glue. Super easy to pull apart in all conditions, and they hold up well in the very cold and especially in the wet spring.

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,881
    OK

    in any case what I posted was how I make the cut using an olfa knife with the ski edge as a guide for the blade

    olfa makes a cleaner cut than the G3 tool otoh that G3 tool is pretty fool proof

    clean is nice but that edge gets walked on anyhow so I dunno how clean the cut needs to be ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  8. #83
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Grandma's Basement
    Posts
    1,192
    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    OK

    in any case what I posted was how I make the cut using an olfa knife with the ski edge as a guide for the blade

    olfa makes a cleaner cut than the G3 tool otoh that G3 tool is pretty fool proof

    clean is nice but that edge gets walked on anyhow so I dunno how clean the cut needs to be ?
    Nah, you wanna get yourself a rusty toe knife

    "Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds

    www.experiencedgear.net

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    northern BC
    Posts
    30,881
    obviously buddy ^^ should not be allowed to own tools
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  10. #85
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    Washcycleton
    Posts
    827
    I have about 30 days on the S Glides. They glide and grip fairly well.
    Tip cap covering the stitching popped off somewhere recently. At some point I will replace the tip attachments with some G3’s.

    Glue has held up so far. I have been thinking abouy the Free 2.0’s or the Voile’s for my giant skis. Still uncertain about grip though.

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    5,351
    Has anyone found the newer Pomoca tail clip to have a super narrow opening and generally be a PITA to clip onto the tail of the ski compared to the older ones? Have you tried modified it by shaving away some material to make it easier?

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Mar 2019
    Location
    Grandma's Basement
    Posts
    1,192
    Quote Originally Posted by Dromond View Post
    Has anyone found the newer Pomoca tail clip to have a super narrow opening and generally be a PITA to clip onto the tail of the ski compared to the older ones? Have you tried modified it by shaving away some material to make it easier?

    How new we talking here?

    you sure its not the thickness of a different ski? <- I've definitely heard about that before, not a different clip opening.
    "Poop is funny" - Frank Reynolds

    www.experiencedgear.net

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Seat 2B
    Posts
    2,528
    Quote Originally Posted by Dromond View Post
    Has anyone found the newer Pomoca tail clip to have a super narrow opening and generally be a PITA to clip onto the tail of the ski compared to the older ones? Have you tried modified it by shaving away some material to make it easier?
    Yes, 100% agree. I think the change happened in skins in last 1-2 seasons. I have 2 pair from ~4 years back and bought the closeout Blizzard branded ones from SaC that are last seasons (?). All have a better tail clip, thicker plastic and wider opening. The skins I got this year (both Free Pro 2.0 and S-Glide) have shittier tail clips as you described. And, to be clear, original clips weren't great but at least fit over my touring skis.

    In case you were thinking it, the in-stock replacement tail clips that SkiMoCo has are the new shittier ones as well.
    dayglo aerobic enthusiast

  14. #89
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Access to Granlibakken
    Posts
    11,184
    Yes the clips got thinner. But also the newer ones use a more UV resistant plastic. So far they’ve been working well for me for 2 seasons. Shrug.

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    No longer somewhere in Idaho
    Posts
    1,990
    Agreed, they don’t seem to cam over as well but they do slide up from the side just fine.


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    Gravity always wins...

  16. #91
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    give'er eh!
    Posts
    2,171
    Skins r great, ive got several used 50-70 days a season for 3+ years….. of note pack an extra tip clip in ur emergency kit. Might b nice addition when u really want to tell someone to go f themselves!

  17. #92
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Rossland BC
    Posts
    1,879
    Quote Originally Posted by kootenayskier View Post
    I did last season on the Pro S Glides. The tip and tail attachments aren’t as easy to use, as solid (the tails seem more like kids toys than professional equipment) or as snow proof as G3s, but they’re adequate. The balance of grip and glide was the best I’ve experienced. Perfection. The glue seemed fine, handling big days lapping pow in cold temps, until it wasn’t. By the end of the season it was leaving glue residue on my bases. My warranty experience with Dynafit/Salewa USA was a long and painful ordeal, but I got them replaced by Fall. I initially thought I’d sell them and go back to G3s, but then I needed some skins, so I cut them to my skis and am trying again. If I trusted they were going to last more than a season I’d replace the tail attachments with G3s.
    Pretty much identical experience second time around. Pomoca glue was “gummy” leaving residue on my bases after ~ 30 days of use this season. Renewing them by ironing them with parchment paper seems to have worked for now.

  18. #93
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    whitefish
    Posts
    1,232
    Do you have a good link or description for that renewal process? My wife and my skins both made that change quickly

  19. #94
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Rossland BC
    Posts
    1,879
    Quote Originally Posted by kevino View Post
    Do you have a good link or description for that renewal process? My wife and my skins both made that change quickly
    There are multiple videos and articles on the web, but this is as good as any: https://offpistemag.com/climbing-ski...e-and-renewal/

  20. #95
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Posts
    1,951
    Quote Originally Posted by kootenayskier View Post
    Pretty much identical experience second time around. Pomoca glue was “gummy” leaving residue on my bases after ~ 30 days of use this season. Renewing them by ironing them with parchment paper seems to have worked for now.
    Well mine are now at 27 days and doing this exact same thing. I have babied these things- always hung up away from heat immediately to dry, no heat sources near them, etc. Bummer. I sent in a warranty request and I'll try the iron method to see if I can get through this season.

  21. #96
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,469
    I heat them with the heat gun. Parchment paper and iron is pussyfooting. G3/BD can take full heat. The glue melts and bubbles humidity out. A putty knife cam be used to spread and smooth the glue. Pomocas are fine with low heat setting on the heat gun. The glue "sweats" and gets glossy. I am terrible with my skins. I forget them in my bag and top box all the time. I revived them countless times. The parchment paper and iron don't really allow whatever's fucking the glue to evaporate.

    Does anyone know who makes the black crows glue?

  22. #97
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Seattle
    Posts
    5,351
    Quote Originally Posted by Daywalker View Post
    Yes, 100% agree. I think the change happened in skins in last 1-2 seasons. I have 2 pair from ~4 years back and bought the closeout Blizzard branded ones from SaC that are last seasons (?). All have a better tail clip, thicker plastic and wider opening. The skins I got this year (both Free Pro 2.0 and S-Glide) have shittier tail clips as you described. And, to be clear, original clips weren't great but at least fit over my touring skis.

    In case you were thinking it, the in-stock replacement tail clips that SkiMoCo has are the new shittier ones as well.
    Thanks for the tip - I already looked at the Skimo ones and wasn’t sure. Well perhaps the new ones are more durable.


    Quote Originally Posted by rfconroy View Post
    How new we talking here?

    you sure its not the thickness of a different ski? <- I've definitely heard about that before, not a different clip opening.
    I have a pair of the old and new ones - they are decidedly different. Maybe the designers wanted to have a tighter fit especially on thinner ski tails, but I find it a bit more cumbersome to use.

  23. #98
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Rossland BC
    Posts
    1,879
    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    I heat them with the heat gun. Parchment paper and iron is pussyfooting. G3/BD can take full heat. The glue melts and bubbles humidity out. A putty knife cam be used to spread and smooth the glue. Pomocas are fine with low heat setting on the heat gun. The glue "sweats" and gets glossy. I am terrible with my skins. I forget them in my bag and top box all the time. I revived them countless times. The parchment paper and iron don't really allow whatever's fucking the glue to evaporate.

    Does anyone know who makes the black crows glue?
    I’ve tried the direct hot iron on glue method with previous pairs of G3s, which does create satisfying bubbling, and works to smear the glue back over bare patches. But while it definitely works to renew the appearance of the glue, I found that the glue issues (glue sticking to ski bases and pulling off the backing material) very soon persisted, and that it was only a very temporary fix. I recall (but can’t find the reference) reading that the glue is temperature sensitive, so I’m theorizing that by using the parchment paper, and a medium setting on the iron, the glue will maintain its integrity longer. Time will tell.

  24. #99
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    North Vancouver/Whistler
    Posts
    13,985
    Quote Originally Posted by kootenayskier View Post
    I’ve tried the direct hot iron on glue method with previous pairs of G3s, which does create satisfying bubbling, and works to smear the glue back over bare patches. But while it definitely works to renew the appearance of the glue, I found that the glue issues (glue sticking to ski bases and pulling off the backing material) very soon persisted, and that it was only a very temporary fix. I recall (but can’t find the reference) reading that the glue is temperature sensitive, so I’m theorizing that by using the parchment paper, and a medium setting on the iron, the glue will maintain its integrity longer. Time will tell.
    After doing what you do with glue I then store them in the freezer for a couple of days. It seems to work and resurrect the glue

  25. #100
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Posts
    11,148
    Quote Originally Posted by Dromond View Post
    Has anyone found the newer Pomoca tail clip to have a super narrow opening and generally be a PITA to clip onto the tail of the ski compared to the older ones? Have you tried modified it by shaving away some material to make it easier?
    I too find attaching the clip to the side of the tail (with no tension on the rubber strap) and then sliding the clip along the edge to the tail saves me from having to cam the plastic tip over - which can be finicky in gloves and makes me worry about breaking the plastic - especially when it’s cold out.

    I also carry a spare plastic pomoca clip in my pack

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •