Results 26 to 50 of 55
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11-03-2021, 04:25 PM #26
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11-03-2021, 05:31 PM #27
Just undo the top two and as long as when I skin I’m not taking ridiculous strides I don’t really notice the lack of a walk mode. This is my second pair of cast’afied alpine boots. Next time you tour just don’t disengage the walk mode and you can see what it’s like.
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11-03-2021, 05:37 PM #28
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11-03-2021, 05:52 PM #29Registered User
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I went with the new Kryptons. It's a full alpine boot with tech inserts (no walk mode). I'm a tall, heavier person so I didn't want to lose any support with a walk mode for my alpine setup. I think this is what BeHuWe is achieving with his castified boots. Curious to see how they tour with no walk mode. With this being said, many people seem very happy with the popular hybrid boots.
As others have mentioned, gregL is a wealth of knowledge
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11-03-2021, 06:12 PM #30
It’s honestly not that bad, my philosophy is just get stronger and put in the work at the gym or trail to make heavier options a tourable option.
But I don’t think this is the answer for everyone. I’m 5’8” 210lbs in my birthday suit sitting in the low teens for bf% and it felt like I was constantly over flexing all the touring options that existed. This was the best option I’ve been able to come up with so far.
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11-03-2021, 08:56 PM #31Registered User
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IME my 4 buckle alpine boot/ frame binding/ heavy ski/ heavy skin vs a fairly light but not even super light full Dynafit Stokes/ Vulcan/ pomoca skin setup was > 10 % faster in time for the energy expended over the usual 4 km 1 hr training run
Yeah you can just man up but heavy gear with no ROM still slows you down so you could go faster/ further with less energy on a light setup that has more ROM
how fast do you wana go up vs how fast do you need to go down is the question ?Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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11-03-2021, 11:53 PM #32
c’mon… the red ones
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11-04-2021, 08:53 AM #33Registered User
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11-04-2021, 09:30 AM #34
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11-04-2021, 09:33 AM #35
Couldn’t agree with you more. On a straight up touring day with 2-4 laps depending on vert I am never the fastest. But like others I just hide my inefficient touring techniques with a sled to make up for lost time.
But like Ricky Bobby said “I wanna go fast”
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11-04-2021, 09:50 AM #36Registered User
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11-04-2021, 09:53 AM #37
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11-04-2021, 10:08 AM #38Registered User
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11-04-2021, 10:12 AM #39
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11-05-2021, 07:31 AM #40
QFT - I have ditched GripWalk after being a huge proponent due to :
a) low grade plastic binders that stink for front side skiing
b) immense quiver challenges as GW profile seems to vary year to year even in the same company's replacement soles leading to the need to constantly adjust AFDs.
Dobermanns with 4mm race lifters or Dobermanns with Vibram 7mm Cast Soles FTW & low/no binding troubles.
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11-05-2021, 10:53 AM #41
I spent a good amount of time reading up on GripWalk as I clearly have been out of the loop for a while, and have to say I'm relieved I've avoided it for now.
The variance in profile seems to run counter to the whole idea of standardizing anything. The various takes at adjusting for toe hight via sliding AFD or moving toe pieces also just feels like a recipe for failure to me, but what the hell do I know? I'm not an engineer, just an increasingly grumpy and aging skier.
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11-05-2021, 12:38 PM #42Registered User
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I was so jazzed for first WTR and then Gripwalk. Who doesn’t want to walk better in ski boots
. The execution though failed for me.
A Hawk XTD WTR that didn’t fit in a Shift.
AFD area on boots not lining up with binding AFDs.
Added difficulty in figuring out binding delta, and if you need canting the sole switcherroo game adds hassle.
Final straw is moving the binding AFD closer to toe piece, which if you believe a cranky old binding engineer is the opposite of what should be done.
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11-05-2021, 06:15 PM #43
^ to the last 2 posts
Yes!
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11-06-2021, 07:19 AM #44
** before I get dragged for my comment above relative to my first point. The Marker XComp16 is a race / GripWalk approved clamp. However, I have never used it & it’s in limited availability due to Marker shortages. I’m mounting one up on an athletes ski now. The AFD contact point looks a little suspect as it’s a single line that would contact the boot. But typically your GW frontside bindings are largely plastic.
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11-06-2021, 09:03 AM #45
I’ve found both WTR and GripWalk to work fine with Salomon STH bindings. Always release as expected. I know they’re not indemnified but they work fine. Never had a pre release either.
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11-06-2021, 12:45 PM #46
Since July 2021 when the ISO 23223 standard was finalized, the amount of permissible variance is minimal. The key points are the midpoint of the GripWalk AFD pad must be 34mm behind the toe of the boot, and the thickness from this center point to the top of the boot lug must be 19mm plus or minus .75mm (see what they did there? The ISO 5355 spec is 19mm plus or minus 1mm). You can add up to 6mm of extra rubber tread under the forefoot but you don't have to. Hit me up with your real email for a link to the specs if you want to see them.
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11-06-2021, 01:15 PM #47Registered User
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besides the rubber sole of an AT boot having too much friction the rocker of the sole doesnt hit the AFD of a binding very well if it is too far from the toe piece
my Dynafit AT boots have small hard plastic posts in strategic spots to help with release from a frame binding
still I wouldn't use them in an alpine binding altho some doLast edited by XXX-er; 11-06-2021 at 02:12 PM.
Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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11-06-2021, 01:22 PM #48
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11-06-2021, 04:53 PM #49
Thats good info and and really interesting on the variance allowed for GW being lower than ISO 5355.
For a layperson I've been conflating GripWalk with ISO 23223, but perhaps a majority of the issue were pre-standardization. Seems like GW has been a thing since before July 2021, but I have no insight into when manufactures started aligning towards ISO 23223.
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11-06-2021, 05:22 PM #50
Been in Lupo 130 C’s for the past 5ish seasons. Went in to my fitter looking for a new resort boot and expected to be put in a krypton. Instead he’s suggesting a size smaller pro machine is probably the ticket.
I have an average width foot on the small side with a high instep. Ski 40-50 resort days in whis a year, average “expert” skier who likes playing around and skiing steep / tight stuff.
My riding friends all ride their measured sizes and come from higher level racing and mogul backgrounds - they’ve warned me about the perils of downsizing, so I’m a bit leery. Should I get a second opinion?
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