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Thread: Ski Drill Bits

  1. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunder View Post
    12 pack of good ipa.
    That's a deal! I have more Kulshan IPA than I can drink at home right now. I'll give you my Pool Noodle.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason4 View Post
    That's a deal! I have more Kulshan IPA than I can drink at home right now. I'll give you my Pool Noodle.
    Inserts are extra, but I got those on hand.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Conundrum View Post
    What's that in liters or however y'all measure things?
    0.0000889 kilometers
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  4. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    Assuming one was lucid enough to use a tap

    wouldn't the tap stop going in the hole

    when it runs out of hole ?
    Pretty easy to not stop in time and create a dimple on the base, especially with light touring skis . . .

  5. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    Pretty easy to not stop in time and create a dimple on the base, especially with light touring skis . . .
    one could probably use the cork stop with a tap ... but that would mean another bottle of wine
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  6. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    one could probably use the cork stop with a tap ... but that would mean another bottle of wine
    Wine??? I think a good scotch is a way better fit. Nice and Smokey and it forces you to slow down to enjoy it and take your time with the mounts. Fireball works great too if your in a hurry and itís fucking cold in the shop. Click image for larger version. 

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  7. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    Pretty easy to not stop in time and create a dimple on the base, especially with light touring skis . . .
    And if the bottom layer is more robust (stops the tap), then the tap stays more or less in place and you strip the threads.

    You'll probably hear the fiberglass crunching before you go too far, however.

    Of course, with the requisite "beer consumption while mounting" rule around these parts, all bets are off ;-)

    5-1/2 turns has worked for me on the last 8 or so mounts - this, with having drilled deeply enough so the top of the insert is 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn below the top skin.

    ... Thom
    Galibier Design
    crafting technology in service of music

  8. #33
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    Jan 2013
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    If you don't understand when to stop turning the tap when it hits the bottom of the hole, it's either the beer talking or you have other serious issues. Like being unfortunate when thinking...

    Like Thom, I also count the turns but just for a reference check, tap bottoms out during the eleventh half turn. No external stop needed.

    While professional tools installs are cool and very accurate, I don't find insert instalIs that complicated. I drill the holes free hand, either in existing mount holes of pre drill with a 3.5 mm prior to runing the stepped insert drill bit. After tapping as per above, I use the insert tool free-hand as well, just the tool itself no handle necessary, but only for the first turn or two, just to engage the threads of the insert, then a flat screwdriver to the bottom. Yeah the insert might wiggle a bit initially but without forcing it into the threads it's easy enough.

    Maybe not precise for some of you pros, but I have yet to mess up an insert install.

    The very most important steps if you ask me, is: always predrill with a smaller drill (or use old mount holes) before running the insert drill bit, check drill holes for depth, and clean holes from debris and whatnot before adding glue.

  9. #34
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    this thread is getting me pumped. ~5 pairs to mount this season.

    and, yeah, gunder's photography is outstanding.

  10. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunder View Post
    Wine??? I think a good scotch is a way better fit. Nice and Smokey and it forces you to slow down to enjoy it and take your time with the mounts. Fireball works great too if your in a hurry and it’s fucking cold in the shop. Click image for larger version. 

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    the whole point of a bottle of wine was the cork, you need the cork cuz its about the right length for a drill stop after I drill thru it which is > setscrewed collars or a pice of ductape, but one could use any old piece of wood that is 1.5 inches thick

    mounting fixed heel I drink coffee cuz its too long of a process to stay straight cuz I don't have jigs

    mounting tele one can drink anything and it will end up better or worse at the same time
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  11. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gunder View Post
    12 pack of good ipa.
    žžInserts are extra, but I got those on hand.
    Last edited by me6837; 09-25-2021 at 12:59 PM.

  12. #37
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    I would like to add a video

  13. #38
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    Why I cannot post links?

  14. #39
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    Ski Drill Bits

    The Wera torque limiting screw driver I ordered came today.

    Pretty impressed with it. It goes from 3-6NM in 0.25 increments.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    You need to use a wrench to set it for the correct torque but thats included in the handle. I do wish it had a non wrench adjustment like my snapon torque wrenches, but its still pretty quick to set. As with all torque drivers they will last longer and stay more accurate if you turn them back to the lowest setting after every session.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    When I ordered it, I was looking for one with a straight handle, but after testing this one set to 4.0NM which is the published Torque value for ski binding screws, I'm actually glad it has the extra leverage from the pistol grip handle. It will be in the way for some frame bindings, but I still plan to use a drill with the torque limiter to get the screws close anyways. This is just for the final torque setting.

    It will hold any ľ bit on the market plus the C6 and E6 bit standards. It locks them in automatically and holds the bits better than most bit drivers, but it's not as solid as my centrotec handle I posted earlier. Also, it will hold the Festool centrotec bits (my preferred these days) but won't lock them in. Once you hit the correct torque, you activate the spring loaded clutch, and it's then impossible to over torque the screws. FWIW it turns out 4.0 NM is a bit more torque than I would have guessed it to be based upon all of my years hand tightening binding screw to final torque. I suspect on any skis with beefier cores or metal laminates, this won't be an issue, but on soft core skis, It will most likely need to get set to a lower value.

    This is a total splurge for binding mounts IMOP, but when you all ready have all of the associated paraphernalia it's a nice addition. I suspect I'll actually use it quite a bit more with my fleet of mountian bikes as its better suited for many of those applications than a standard torque wrench.

    I am using it with my PBSwiss bits. If you haven't tried their screwdrivers and bit's they are worth a try. The quality is top notch and they last way longer than any other ones that I have used, except for the festool ones.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by Gunder; 09-26-2021 at 01:11 AM.

  15. #40
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    Dec 2020
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    There is a published torque spec for binding screws? Is it the same for machine screws (inserts) as it is for the self tapping screws that bindings come with?

    Going to order a Pozidriv bit I guess.

  16. #41
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    I use the old German manual torque spec…
    Gutentite

  17. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pinned View Post
    There is a published torque spec for binding screws? Is it the same for machine screws (inserts) as it is for the self tapping screws that bindings come with?

    Going to order a Pozidriv bit I guess.
    For all standard alpine binding screws it is 4NM and for junior bindings itís 3NM according to almost all of the manufactures tech manuals.

    Binding freedom lists 4NM on its tech page for the insert screws as well.

  18. #43
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
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    154
    Thank you all for your comments, stories, tips (or "hacks" as some call them now). I mounted my first set of bindings, following all the suggestions in this thread: I volcanoed the top sheet, tapped the holes until the bases were dimpled and crunching sounds came from inside the skis, I used a power drill to torque the screws until they spinned and then backed off a quarter turn, and I used water soluble glue.

    No, I actually spent a ridiculous amount of time doing it, so much that at one point I thought "I can't believe that it's taking this long to drill 16 holes in two planks!"

    I have one question about tapping. I did it, since these skis have metal and people with more knowledge about this than me recommend it. But since the screws are self tapping, wouldn't you prefer to feel the screws biting into the metal as you mount your bindings? Just a thought that crossed my mind as I was screwing the bindings onto the skis.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fofo View Post

    I have one question about tapping. But since the screws are self tapping, wouldn't you prefer to feel the screws biting into the metal as you mount your bindings?
    If you don't tap skis with a metal laminate, you run the risk of causing that metal laminate to delaminate. I have had several people over the years bring me skis to fix, where the shop they had them mounted at didn't tap them. The screws are self taping in wood, not metal.

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