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Thread: Ski Drill Bits
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09-21-2021, 09:19 AM #26Anxious desk jockey
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09-21-2021, 09:40 AM #27
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09-21-2021, 09:58 AM #28Registered User
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09-22-2021, 09:47 AM #29
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09-22-2021, 10:05 AM #30Registered User
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09-22-2021, 10:36 PM #31
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09-22-2021, 11:26 PM #32
And if the bottom layer is more robust (stops the tap), then the tap stays more or less in place and you strip the threads.
You'll probably hear the fiberglass crunching before you go too far, however.
Of course, with the requisite "beer consumption while mounting" rule around these parts, all bets are off ;-)
5-1/2 turns has worked for me on the last 8 or so mounts - this, with having drilled deeply enough so the top of the insert is 1/2 to 3/4 of a turn below the top skin.
... ThomGalibier Designcrafting technology in service of music
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09-23-2021, 12:19 AM #33
If you don't understand when to stop turning the tap when it hits the bottom of the hole, it's either the beer talking or you have other serious issues. Like being unfortunate when thinking...
Like Thom, I also count the turns but just for a reference check, tap bottoms out during the eleventh half turn. No external stop needed.
While professional tools installs are cool and very accurate, I don't find insert instalIs that complicated. I drill the holes free hand, either in existing mount holes of pre drill with a 3.5 mm prior to runing the stepped insert drill bit. After tapping as per above, I use the insert tool free-hand as well, just the tool itself no handle necessary, but only for the first turn or two, just to engage the threads of the insert, then a flat screwdriver to the bottom. Yeah the insert might wiggle a bit initially but without forcing it into the threads it's easy enough.
Maybe not precise for some of you pros, but I have yet to mess up an insert install.
The very most important steps if you ask me, is: always predrill with a smaller drill (or use old mount holes) before running the insert drill bit, check drill holes for depth, and clean holes from debris and whatnot before adding glue.
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09-23-2021, 12:47 AM #34
this thread is getting me pumped. ~5 pairs to mount this season.
and, yeah, gunder's photography is outstanding.
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09-23-2021, 09:52 AM #35Registered User
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the whole point of a bottle of wine was the cork, you need the cork cuz its about the right length for a drill stop after I drill thru it which is > setscrewed collars or a pice of ductape, but one could use any old piece of wood that is 1.5 inches thick
mounting fixed heel I drink coffee cuz its too long of a process to stay straight cuz I don't have jigs
mounting tele one can drink anything and it will end up better or worse at the same timeLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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09-24-2021, 06:35 AM #36Registered User
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09-25-2021, 12:56 PM #37Registered User
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I would like to add a video
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09-25-2021, 12:57 PM #38Registered User
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Why I cannot post links?
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09-25-2021, 10:32 PM #39
Ski Drill Bits
The Wera torque limiting screw driver I ordered came today.
Pretty impressed with it. It goes from 3-6NM in 0.25 increments.
You need to use a wrench to set it for the correct torque but thats included in the handle. I do wish it had a non wrench adjustment like my snapon torque wrenches, but its still pretty quick to set. As with all torque drivers they will last longer and stay more accurate if you turn them back to the lowest setting after every session.
When I ordered it, I was looking for one with a straight handle, but after testing this one set to 4.0NM which is the published Torque value for ski binding screws, I'm actually glad it has the extra leverage from the pistol grip handle. It will be in the way for some frame bindings, but I still plan to use a drill with the torque limiter to get the screws close anyways. This is just for the final torque setting.
It will hold any ¼ bit on the market plus the C6 and E6 bit standards. It locks them in automatically and holds the bits better than most bit drivers, but it's not as solid as my centrotec handle I posted earlier. Also, it will hold the Festool centrotec bits (my preferred these days) but won't lock them in. Once you hit the correct torque, you activate the spring loaded clutch, and it's then impossible to over torque the screws. FWIW it turns out 4.0 NM is a bit more torque than I would have guessed it to be based upon all of my years hand tightening binding screw to final torque. I suspect on any skis with beefier cores or metal laminates, this won't be an issue, but on soft core skis, It will most likely need to get set to a lower value.
This is a total splurge for binding mounts IMOP, but when you all ready have all of the associated paraphernalia it's a nice addition. I suspect I'll actually use it quite a bit more with my fleet of mountian bikes as its better suited for many of those applications than a standard torque wrench.
I am using it with my PBSwiss bits. If you haven't tried their screwdrivers and bit's they are worth a try. The quality is top notch and they last way longer than any other ones that I have used, except for the festool ones.
Last edited by Gunder; 09-26-2021 at 01:11 AM.
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09-26-2021, 07:11 AM #40Registered User
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There is a published torque spec for binding screws? Is it the same for machine screws (inserts) as it is for the self tapping screws that bindings come with?
Going to order a Pozidriv bit I guess.
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09-26-2021, 07:27 AM #41
I use the old German manual torque spec…
Gutentite
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09-26-2021, 08:30 AM #42
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10-08-2021, 04:33 PM #43
Thank you all for your comments, stories, tips (or "hacks" as some call them now). I mounted my first set of bindings, following all the suggestions in this thread: I volcanoed the top sheet, tapped the holes until the bases were dimpled and crunching sounds came from inside the skis, I used a power drill to torque the screws until they spinned and then backed off a quarter turn, and I used water soluble glue.
No, I actually spent a ridiculous amount of time doing it, so much that at one point I thought "I can't believe that it's taking this long to drill 16 holes in two planks!"
I have one question about tapping. I did it, since these skis have metal and people with more knowledge about this than me recommend it. But since the screws are self tapping, wouldn't you prefer to feel the screws biting into the metal as you mount your bindings? Just a thought that crossed my mind as I was screwing the bindings onto the skis.
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10-11-2021, 02:13 PM #44
If you don't tap skis with a metal laminate, you run the risk of causing that metal laminate to delaminate. I have had several people over the years bring me skis to fix, where the shop they had them mounted at didn't tap them. The screws are self taping in wood, not metal.
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