Home network/wifi

[PNWbrit]

Thanks, I got the Buffalo referral from TGR back in 2013/2014. From you if I recall.

And thanks to the rest of you have offered your input. I'm down the rabbit hole.

For the coax, if I have a cable modem sending and receiving data on that line can I use it with a MOCA adapter (i see it mentioned in the article, just not clear on the terminology yet)?

At this point the biggest thing I am running up is my internal cheap bastard, curiosity, aesthetics and skepticism around what data these companies are collecting via their apps and software running these mesh networks. My wife would have just bought one 2 weeks ago and been done with it.

I cannot believe how much money it costs to buy one of these mesh systems, I also just don't like how they look. I have a perfectly functional wireless/wired router in my Buffalo wifi router, can I just add a powered and ethernet (or coax) connected access point like "the_prof" did? If I am reading correctly it seems like it shouldn't be that hard to configure, but maybe I'm underestimating the complexity of getting it to be a seamless experience. Or better, just add a POE adapter downstream of my existing router, run some CAT5/6 and mount an AP.

The big appeal of a POE access point is that I can mount it in an out of the way location so I don't have to use up a outlet, provide it somewhere to sit and look at it. I could do a single cable pull from my current router location via the attic to a central location in my house in the hallway where I could mount it on the upper wall like a fire alarm and never think about it again. Neighbor is a low voltage electrician who could help me with tool for cable terminations, but I'm definitely not an expert on configuring a network.

Your wife was right.

[nobodygoestododge]

Since you're a cheap bastard like me, I would run ethernet to the other side of the house and buy another cheap wireless router to set up as an access point. You can also forego the ethernet cable and get powerline adapters (ethernet through the power outlets) assuming the two outlets you want to use are on the same phase.

Stop renting a shitting modem from comcast @$10/month and go buy a cheap $70 Arris surfboard or something from amazon.

Once you get the wires in and the other router in place, make sure to give it a static IP address so that your main router and secondary router aren't tripping over each others toes. Best to google it, but the main router gets the signal from the modem and declares that router 2 is IP 192.167.0.5 or something like that. Then router 2 can distribute IPs 100 to 255 and router one can still distribute IPs 6-99. Then you can make them have the same wifi name and password and all will be good.

Or buy a mesh network like EERO or google and be done with it.

[old_newguy]

I figured out I can drill 2 holes and run a 75ft CAT6 patchcord right to where I want via the attic. Planning to install a TP Link EAP225 POE access point wired back to my existing wireless router and modem which I am going to move into another space to get off my desk. I’ll see if I can get the new AP and old WiFi router to play nice on the SSID front, otherwise I’ll just run a separate SSID or turn off the wifi transmitters if the new coverage is better. I figure having the AP more centered in the house will help a bunch.

This moves me from Wifi 4 to 5 so I figure that will help a little and I don’t see the point of wifi6 for my scenario.

EAP225 comes with a POE injector standard in the box so that solves that issue.

I don’t think I’ve ever rented a modem, owning pays for itself in like 10 months.

I also figured out I have lathe and plaster ceilings and I assume walls. Never lived in a house without cracked lathe and plaster so assumed it was drywall.

Maybe I will regret all this and by a mesh. To be seen.

[SumJongGuy]

I have a CAT5 running through the crawl space to the master bedroom at the back if the house. Had another WiFi router there as an extender for awhile. Everything on the other side of the kitchen was a dead zone with 2 fridges, a tall freezer, washer, and dryer blocking the signal. I move the big router to the doorway instead of on the wall in the living room when I upgraded that router. Now we only use the CAT5 in the bedroom to connect a work PC directly. TV, Joey, tablets, etc all work fine now with a better router and better placement.

[detrusor]

Orbi has been outstanding for our house with lots of weird corners and a mother in law. Blazing fast no dead spots.


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[RShea]

I figured out I can drill 2 holes and run a 75ft CAT6 patchcord right to where I want via the attic. Planning to install a TP Link EAP225 POE access point wired back to my existing wireless router and modem which I am going to move into another space to get off my desk. I’ll see if I can get the new AP and old WiFi router to play nice on the SSID front, otherwise I’ll just run a separate SSID or turn off the wifi transmitters if the new coverage is better. I figure having the AP more centered in the house will help a bunch.

This moves me from Wifi 4 to 5 so I figure that will help a little and I don’t see the point of wifi6 for my scenario.

EAP225 comes with a POE injector standard in the box so that solves that issue.

I don’t think I’ve ever rented a modem, owning pays for itself in like 10 months.

I also figured out I have lathe and plaster ceilings and I assume walls. Never lived in a house without cracked lathe and plaster so assumed it was drywall.

Maybe I will regret all this and by a mesh. To be seen.

If you are only replacing your equipment every 7 to 9 years, I'd go wifi6 now for anything you do. Also if you have lathe and plaster- that is one of the worst materials for killing wifi (but below a wall with a wire mesh and plaster or full metal building and getting any wifi outside of that building. )

[old_newguy]

If you are only replacing your equipment every 7 to 9 years, I'd go wifi6 now for anything you do. Also if you have lathe and plaster- that is one of the worst materials for killing wifi (but below a wall with a wire mesh and plaster or full metal building and getting any wifi outside of that building. )

Did you miss the part about me being cheap?

Maybe you can make a compelling case, but it seems that the current argument for wifi6 is having a congested wifi environment, which I don’t have. There are at most 8 wifi devices (which would mean my wife and I are on the phone, work computers, TV, tablet and personal computers all at the same time) in my house and I don’t see it getting higher anytime soon. (I’m not a “smart house” person).

[Snow Dog]

I have an ASUS AC-1750 router connected to a cable modem and the WiFi didn't reach the other end of the house. I pulled some CAT5 through the attic, added a spare LinkSys router (with Tomato software), set it up in bridge mode, used the same SSID and password and changed the default radio channel. Works great. In bridge mode the second router acts like a switch and simple passes along packets. The Asus router handles all the processing.

[Thaleia]

Been having non stop wifi connection issues lately. Still troubleshooting with the ISP but I'm pretty sure the issue is the TPlink AC1750 that we use for the wifi.

Three story house with the modem/router in the middle floor and even when the signal is the strongest there are dead zones.

Reading through this thread and a lot of it is a bit technical for me.

Looks like an Eero mesh system might be an easy "I just want to throw some money at this issue to make it go away" type solution?

[ntblanks]

Do you keep the firmware up-to-date?

[Mustonen]

Looks like an Eero mesh system might be an easy "I just want to throw some money at this issue to make it go away" type solution?

That’s exactly what it is. Glad I did it.

[gregorys]

Been having non stop wifi connection issues lately. Still troubleshooting with the ISP but I'm pretty sure the issue is the TPlink AC1750 that we use for the wifi.

Three story house with the modem/router in the middle floor and even when the signal is the strongest there are dead zones.

Reading through this thread and a lot of it is a bit technical for me.

Looks like an Eero mesh system might be an easy "I just want to throw some money at this issue to make it go away" type solution?

Short answer;
If you're like the typical residential use case - web surfing, netflix, youtube - and don't transfer/move a lot of data often (high bandwidth use) AND you don't have ethernet (Cat5 or better) to multiple places in your house, then a mesh system is "best."

If you've got ethernet cable to a somewhat wide diversity of places, then multiple access points (something like Ubiquiti Unifi) would be "better." This is more work, and more technical. But it will generally yield a better wireless network. (You may not need the things that are "better" - so it's to be determined, if it's better for you.)

Finally, I'm really wary of consumer grade junk. Yes, I do network/IT stuff for a living, so I'm picky - but consumer grade stuff is often so junky. Firmware that has a ton of security flaws in it, and won't ever get updated after the first 6 months or after a new model comes out, buggy, works erratically etc. And Wifi is especially prone to a ton of issues you don't control - like what wifi (radio frequency) stuff the neighbors are pushing out, spectrum congestion, building construction (how radio reflective it is, or not) and on and on. So, what works and what doesn't seems almost like black magic. Add in crappy equipment, and it's just crazy.

So, buy decent stuff. I only buy TPLink when it's uncomplicated and I can't get something else better - due to time or budget constraints.
I use Unifi a lot for commercial stuff, so it's nearly always my go-to.
There was a costco deal for a mesh setup recently. Don't recall who it was. That might be worth checking out.

[patg]

Looks like an Eero mesh system might be an easy "I just want to throw some money at this issue to make it go away" type solution?

That’s exactly what it is. Glad I did it.

x2. My house is 3 stories, townhouse style, the only cable is on the 1st floor and home office is on the 3rd floor. I kept dropping zoom calls and having generally shitty wifi in the office, so figured I'd try eero - so far so good, no complaints. Note - I would not consider myself overly techy and it was super easy so for general home use i'd say it is worth a try.

On a related note - if anyone wants a netgear nighthawk r7000p router for the cost of shipping and a few beers its yours. PM me [edit - shipped to Falcon3]

[Thaleia]

Hey thanks all for chiming in, greatly appreciated.

Yes I do keep the firmware updated.

gregorys yeah pretty typical home use - at any given time maybe a couple people streaming and or surfing, no major file sharing and no ethernet runs, on an under powered plan that averages ~75 mbps at best.

[gregorys]

Hey thanks all for chiming in, greatly appreciated.

Yes I do keep the firmware updated.

gregorys yeah pretty typical home use - at any given time maybe a couple people streaming and or surfing, no major file sharing and no ethernet runs, on an under powered plan that averages ~75 mbps at best.

No wires? Then yeah, mesh.
Even with wires, I'd probably still try mesh, if I were Joe Schmoe without any demanding use cases. And if virtually all your network traffic is to the internet (sounds like it is) - then essentially the fastest speed you'd ever need is 75Mb/s. So, yeah - a decent mesh system should do that pretty easily. (Unless there's some pretty unusual issues - like chicken-wire in plastered walls, etc.)

Costco; and if it totally sucks, you can always take it back.

[RShea]

Short answer;
If you're like the typical residential use case - web surfing, netflix, youtube - and don't transfer/move a lot of data often (high bandwidth use) AND you don't have ethernet (Cat5 or better) to multiple places in your house, then a mesh system is "best."

If you've got ethernet cable to a somewhat wide diversity of places, then multiple access points (something like Ubiquiti Unifi) would be "better." This is more work, and more technical. But it will generally yield a better wireless network. (You may not need the things that are "better" - so it's to be determined, if it's better for you.)

Finally, I'm really wary of consumer grade junk. Yes, I do network/IT stuff for a living, so I'm picky - but consumer grade stuff is often so junky. Firmware that has a ton of security flaws in it, and won't ever get updated after the first 6 months or after a new model comes out, buggy, works erratically etc. And Wifi is especially prone to a ton of issues you don't control - like what wifi (radio frequency) stuff the neighbors are pushing out, spectrum congestion, building construction (how radio reflective it is, or not) and on and on. So, what works and what doesn't seems almost like black magic. Add in crappy equipment, and it's just crazy.

So, buy decent stuff. I only buy TPLink when it's uncomplicated and I can't get something else better - due to time or budget constraints.
I use Unifi a lot for commercial stuff, so it's nearly always my go-to.
There was a costco deal for a mesh setup recently. Don't recall who it was. That might be worth checking out.

Unifi is really not 100% commercial class stuff. Their products (when available and you can get them) are pretty strong for the price point. But I would not say the company and model is commercial class like a Cisco, Aruba (HP Ent.), Rukus, etc. is. They do not have telephone tech support, they are harder to deal with for RMA and returns of defective products and a few other things. They also even before the chip shortage and Pandemic had stock and production issues and it is even worst now with long lead times. But of course they are not Meraki price point and subscription requirements to keep the product functional though either.

[gregorys]

Unifi is really not 100% commercial class stuff. Their products (when available and you can get them) are pretty strong for the price point. But I would not say the company and model is commercial class like a Cisco, Aruba (HP Ent.), Rukus, etc. is. They do not have telephone tech support, they are harder to deal with for RMA and returns of defective products and a few other things. They also even before the chip shortage and Pandemic had stock and production issues and it is even worst now with long lead times. But of course they are not Meraki price point and subscription requirements to keep the product functional though either.

Yeah, all true.
Though UI stuff is a *far* step above residential/consumer grade. (I'd say it's commercial, but not enterprise.)

And yes, they rely on customers to beta and support stuff. They don't provide any real documentation (at least on Edgerouter and Unifi and wireless bridges - which I'm most familiar with.) They often haphazardly toss stuff in software and firmware way too quickly and cause issues. They do a ton of stuff that screams "immature startup" when they're long past that point. But as long as one stays off the bleeding edge of their products (hardware/firmware/software) (unless you absolutely gotta have it, NOW) generally one does just fine.

And yeah, I'm worried where they're headed, at least long term. (They seem to want everything to fit into their management tools and ecosystem, even at the expense of general usability.)

But they're less hostile than Mikrotik.

In short, there's a ton to dislike about UI, but for most (short of truly enterprise setups) they provide a lot of value while serving like 90% of the market. Which, I think, is exactly what they've always tried to do.

But I do wish they'd grow up a little - provide some actual technical documentation, have a little more deliberation when tossing off firmware etc.

[::: :::]

Any suggestions for a router that can live in an unheated garage?
I need to extend Wi-Fi to the far side of the garage. Everything I’ve read is that routers don’t do well with extreme temps.
Just get a cheap throwaway? or will a decent unit hold up better?

[gregorys]

High temps are the bigger problem by far.
Low temperatures are going to be fine.

(FTR: I've had a unifi unit in my attic for a while. I've since moved it - before our nighmare heatwave this summer - but it lived up there for a couple of years. I'd guess ambient temps in the summer were well above 150F in the attic. While I certainly wouldn't recommend that kind of environment, I think most decent stuff will do ok. But again, it's heat that's the big electronics killer, not cold, generally.)

IMO, most anything should work fine. I obviously prefer better equipment, but I'd be skeptical that higher-end equipment will do a lot better than cheap stuff in terms of temperature performance. So, do what seems most cost-effective.

[::: :::]

OK, appreciate the input