When did this happen? V to YDS

[powdork]

I’ve always been told (and google confirms)
Vb=5.8 and below
V0=5.9
V1=5.10+
V2=5.11
Or something very similar

The last two guidebooks I bought (mammoth and Tahoe west, both from same publisher) use this


It doesn’t really matter I was just surprised to read differently in print


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[ex-powderbroker]

the buttermilks are super soft and they wanted to even it out? weird

[RoadHeadBill]

Are you saying that a 5.11 is a sustained v2 the whole way up? Or they are equally comparable in difficulty to complete?

[zartagen]

That chart seems way off to me. I thought 7a was 5.11d and my international climbing experience agrees. No way it's 12b/c.

[subtle plague]

That chart seems way off to me. I thought 7a was 5.11d and my international climbing experience agrees. No way it's 12b/c.

Font is not normal French. It's a bouldering guide.
A 7A boulder Crux is usually in a 7c (5.12c?) sport( if It's short).

[tim15]

Font grade system is specific for bouldering... different from the french sport grades. 7a french = 11d & 8a font = v11

[tellybele]

The Buttermilks used YDS in the 80-90s when I climbed there. Boulder problems, IME, have always had 'stiff' ratings. 11s were 12s and what they would call a 12 or B2 were 13s. I always figured the ratings were fine b/c they were problems and not routes, at least most anyway...the Peabodys were solos and maybe a few others in the Adam's Family zones. Ratings have a hella geographic disparity so I always took them with a grain of salt until I got used to the area.