Mullet Talk.

[grinch]

I like both 27/29 and full 29. No way im throwing a full 29 down steep trails and bigger jumps with a 29" inseam though. Thats just tempting fate hanging too far off the back. I like pumping through the xc trails or carrying a little extra speed on long aloine days with the 9er and swapping steep loose turns with the 27(along with the safety it brings). Im pretty much 50/50 on my enduro bike until the park opens then itll sway towards mullet. Emtb is always going to be mullet because E

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

[westoxified]

some good mullet gab in here.

i've been rocking the skullet.
slaughter up front and hillbilly in the back.
size don't matter with this killer combo.

[rideit]

Slightly off topic, but here goes. I went to 165 cranks because of the mullet action. Today I did my first real climb, and I could feel the difference. It was kind of like losing one tooth off of the rear cog, IMO. However, the bike is a lot heavier now with dh casings, I was feeling that, too.
my best time on this climb is something like 24 minutes, tonight was 36. Yeesh. However, I did get a 16 fastest on a long trail I have only ridden once before, 8 years ago. So pointed down, it still shreds. There were sections going balls out in the 30/10, and the 165‘s showed their shortcomings in a feeling of ‘lack of leverage’...but I could have just been spent.
More testing and navel gazing is in order.

[volklpowdermaniac]

I really don't get the point. Seems like this is just another thing industry will hype to drive sales to riders who won't be able to tell the difference, yet will prattle on like it's the best thing ever. Even better than the last thing that was the best thing ever!

this.
inserts too.

[grinch]

Slightly off topic, but here goes. I went to 165 cranks because of the mullet action. Today I did my first real climb, and I could feel the difference. It was kind of like losing one tooth off of the rear cog, IMO. However, the bike is a lot heavier now with dh casings, I was feeling that, too.
my best time on this climb is something like 24 minutes, tonight was 36. Yeesh. However, I did get a 16 fastest on a long trail I have only ridden once before, 8 years ago. So pointed down, it still shreds. There were sections going balls out in the 30/10, and the 165‘s showed their shortcomings in a feeling of ‘lack of leverage’...but I could have just been spent.
More testing and navel gazing is in order.

The smaller wheel should make the ez gear easier and then you lose a touch of leverage with the shorter cranks. Smaller dead spot with shorter cranks might benefit from a higher rpm? Im thinking the dh casing tire and the smaller rear wheel will be the biggest difference on the climb. 9er is definitely going to roll noticeably faster. Most WC dhers 6' tallband under are on mullets. Less ews racers are. Horses for courses kind of thing for me

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

[jhyatt]

I have ridden mullet wheels often. I rode a Trek 69er singlespeed for years and loved it with that Maverick DUC. That bike rides really well, since it was ridden as designed.
I had a Turner 5 spot 26" that I put a 27.5 on the front. So much wheel flop climbing.
I also had a Merlin fat beat, so soft tail moots ybb rear 26. I made it singlespeed and put a lefty on with 29 wheel. Rides well and very cool, but not as well as a 29er.
Basically I think it comes down to personal preference on your style and terrain.
Some bike are going to feel better to some people
But overall I think most good bike will ride best when ridden as intended from the factory. Modifications should be light and mostly upgrades that didn't happen stock to keep thev sticker price down.
I have only tinkered with bikes I didn't like that had poor resale.
The mullet making a comeback now... Need to sell bikes! I bet it rides great if well designed and implemented and some riders will love it. Will we all be riding mullets in 5 years and bikes with two wheel same size be cheap on eBay? Doubt it.
Same way we're not all riding 29 or 27.5 or ....
But 26" are cheap on eBay...

[nickwm21]

The mullet hair style is making a comeback as well...


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[grinch]

Same with the cock broom but ill just stick with the mullet wheels

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

[east or bust]

those of you going mullet - are you doing this on a 27.5 or 29?

Seems to me like you’d benefit more by doing this on a 27.5. Don’t see much good coming slackening and lowering my already slack and low enduro


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[frorider]

those of you going mullet - are you doing this on a 27.5 or 29?

Seems to me like you’d benefit more by doing this on a 27.5. Don’t see much good coming slackening and lowering my already slack and low enduro


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Answer: it depends. https://ridemonkey.bikemag.com/threa...adness.291264/ has a good summary of options.

[grinch]

Its much cheaper to mullet a 9er, plus you now have both. Flip chip makes it easiest to keep the same geo/bb height. My meta doesnt have a flip chip so i put one offset bushing in reversed to raise the bb whdn it has the 27.5 installed. Its still lower and i have another offset bushing for the other eyelet being shipped. Still not sure if ill use the other offset bushing. I have the original air shock with standard shock bushings when its full 9er and a coil with one or 2 reversed offset bushings when its mulleted. That works perfectly fibe as is. After that i did add 10mm to the fork and have gone to 165 cranks although the added stroke on the coil r shock cancels the 3mm bb height gained by the extra 10mm on the fork

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

[jhyatt]

Its much cheaper to mullet a 9er, plus you now have both. Flip chip makes it easiest to keep the same geo/bb height. My meta doesnt have a flip chip so i put one offset bushing in reversed to raise the bb whdn it has the 27.5 installed. Its still lower and i have another offset bushing for the other eyelet being shipped. Still not sure if ill use the other offset bushing. I have the original air shock with standard shock bushings when its full 9er and a coil with one or 2 reversed offset bushings when its mulleted. That works perfectly fibe as is. After that i did add 10mm to the fork and have gone to 165 cranks although the added stroke on the coil r shock cancels the 3mm bb height gained by the extra 10mm on the fork

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

Have you tried reversing the polarity on the flux capacitor?

[HAB]

those of you going mullet - are you doing this on a 27.5 or 29?

Seems to me like you’d benefit more by doing this on a 27.5. Don’t see much good coming slackening and lowering my already slack and low enduro


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

You change the geo less on a 29er, unless you also lop 20mm off the fork travel on the 27.5 bike. You just have the wheel size changing, instead of wheel size and fork length.

There aren't that many bikes that aren't designed to be mullets that don't get weird if you do it.

[singlecross]

I thought you all were talking about the original mullet. Disc brake in the front and canti in the rear, but I’m several years (decades?) out of touch with modern bike stuff obviously. Is cyclocross still a thing? It was pretty awesome outbraking everyone into the corners in the mud back in the day with the front disc.

[grinch]

Have you tried reversing the polarity on the flux capacitor?

Not yet, but im swapping the 38 from the meta to the decoy for the yari thats on the decoy and that will lower the axle to crown, bb and steepen the bike so ill be adding a reverse components -.5 degree race so that should cover the need for altering the flux capacitor/true story.
Oh and 50mm rise bar to accomodate the shorter steerer but nevermind that in case it gets confusing

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

[nortonwhis]

this.
inserts too.

either we ride extremely differently or your out to lunch. Both of these things (Mullets and inserts) actually make more sense than most new mtb inventions lately. Both are used by 50% of the elite of the sport and you have countless pros paying for cushcore out of their own pocket, not because they are sponsored, because its so fucking good.

[SkiLyft]

Both are used by 50% of the elite of the sport

I think you guys agree here - the OP that @Volkl quoted literally posted about how nuanced the ride feel is which most casual riders won’t notice.

If you ride more than 2 days a week you likely are in the category of advanced rides who will notice a difference.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

[waveshello]

I have ridden mullet wheels often. I rode a Trek 69er singlespeed for years and loved it with that Maverick DUC. That bike rides really well, since it was ridden as designed.
I had a Turner 5 spot 26" that I put a 27.5 on the front. So much wheel flop climbing.
I also had a Merlin fat beat, so soft tail moots ybb rear 26. I made it singlespeed and put a lefty on with 29 wheel. Rides well and very cool, but not as well as a 29er.
Basically I think it comes down to personal preference on your style and terrain.
Some bike are going to feel better to some people
But overall I think most good bike will ride best when ridden as intended from the factory. Modifications should be light and mostly upgrades that didn't happen stock to keep thev sticker price down.
I have only tinkered with bikes I didn't like that had poor resale.
The mullet making a comeback now... Need to sell bikes! I bet it rides great if well designed and implemented and some riders will love it. Will we all be riding mullets in 5 years and bikes with two wheel same size be cheap on eBay? Doubt it.
Same way we're not all riding 29 or 27.5 or ....
But 26" are cheap on eBay...

I'm planning on trying this with my 26" hard tail franken MTB. I don't have the funds to replace entirely at this point, but I want to put a better fork on it and I want to slacken it a little, so I'm thinking about putting a china 27.5 gas fork on it. I need to double check the frame geo to make sure it will respond ok with a slightly longer fork and bigger wheel but I think it will be fine. I will report back.

Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk

[rideit]

What is a ‘China gas fork’?

[XXX-er]

its a product made from Bat feces

[waveshello]

What is a ‘China gas fork’?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XCYV9XY...v_ov_lig_dp_it

Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk

[grinch]

If it was for a townie, id say sure. No way i would ride that down a trail let alone expect it to work well for long or be able to service it consistently. You good buy a used yari or relevation 27.5 for cheap with a 15mm axle and bet you have a reasonable chance of not being paralyzed

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

[grinch]

I think you guys agree here - the OP that @Volkl quoted literally posted about how nuanced the ride feel is which most casual riders won’t notice.

If you ride more than 2 days a week you likely are in the category of advanced rides who will notice a difference.


Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

Ride quality is only one benefit. That benefit is a smoother ride and sidewall support. With the later whether you feel it or not, if you pick yourself out of the dirt in a corner its safe to say inserts are a good thing.
The other benefit is durability. Not flatting, not pinching your tire or damaging your rim is something any newb should be able to recognize, even someone whos only been riding for a year
All are differences in their point of view

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

[waveshello]

If it was for a townie, id say sure. No way i would ride that down a trail let alone expect it to work well for long or be able to service it consistently. You good buy a used yari or relevation 27.5 for cheap with a 15mm axle and bet you have a reasonable chance of not being paralyzed

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app

It's primarily a townie that sometimes goes on easy trail rides--I do take the milk crate off the rack on the back before getting rad. If I find a decent used fork I'll do that instead, but right now everyone thinks their ancient junk is worth a fortune.

Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk

[grinch]

It's primarily a townie that sometimes goes on easy trail rides--I do take the milk crate off the rack on the back before getting rad. If I find a decent used fork I'll do that instead, but right now everyone thinks their ancient junk is worth a fortune.

Sent from my BND-L24 using Tapatalk

Ya copy that. I just had a quick look through the pb buy n sell. Definitely some ridiculous pricing but i did find some great prices on a few pikes but then who knows what theyve been put through. They are cheap and ez to rebuild and atleast you would be able to do that. Theyd be ez to upgrade internals at any point as well. I didnt look for 34's or dvo. Older dvo diamond would be a great option you could service or change the travel quick with just the supplied spacers

Sent from my SM-G950W using TGR Forums mobile app