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  1. #126
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    Quote Originally Posted by MagnificentUnicorn View Post
    How much of that was the cedar?


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    I’ll look at the ticket. It’s in the truck.
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  2. #127
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    My BIG ///deck///

  3. #128
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    Somehow I was unaware of rideit's deck.

  4. #129
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    I think I posted a ‘before’ picture somewhere in this thread?
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  5. #130
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    It's possible I didn't read the whole thread.

  6. #131
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    So, the cedar was $780 for 260 pieces.
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  7. #132
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    That's like a dollar a picket, or something.

  8. #133
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    So, the cedar was $780 for 260 pieces.
    10 4x4s and 8 2x4s were $1,300!!?

  9. #134
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    However, I had to drive to IF (200 mile round trip).
    Can’t imagine what they would be here in town.
    And I roached the front brake pads of the truck coming into Wilson...but that was more from many, many other trips.
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  10. #135
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    Quote Originally Posted by neufox47 View Post
    10 4x4s and 8 2x4s were $1,300!!?
    Got my numbers WAY wrong
    260 cedar. ($3.85 each). $1001.00
    17 2x4x16. (28.82). $489.94
    17. 4x4x10. (26.04). $442.68

    2049.64 with tax.
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  11. #136
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    They say that digging postholes in the JHole really blows.

  12. #137
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Got my numbers WAY wrong
    260 cedar. ($3.85 each). $1001.00
    17 2x4x16. (28.82). $489.94
    17. 4x4x10. (26.04). $442.68

    2049.64 with tax.
    That doesn’t seem too unreasonable given the current market. That’s a lot of lumber, especially cedar.


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  13. #138
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    Quote Originally Posted by Djongo Unchained View Post
    They say that digging postholes in the JHole really blows.
    That's just cause ID sucks.
    I have been in this State for 30 years and I am willing to admit that I am part of the problem.

  14. #139
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    Quote Originally Posted by Djongo Unchained View Post
    They say that digging postholes in the JHole really blows.
    I should really hire some strong young buck for that!
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  15. #140
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    4x8 OSB in February 2020: $12
    May 2020: $32
    Last Friday: $79.68

  16. #141
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    However, I had to drive to IF (200 mile round trip).
    Can’t imagine what they would be here in town.
    And I roached the front brake pads of the truck coming into Wilson...but that was more from many, many other trips.
    Don't know about downshifting...Are you a girl or a Millennial??

  17. #142
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    Oh, it was in 3,2,1, etc...but there are 40,000 miles on these pads/rotors with a shitload of travel trailer towing. On big passes. It was just time.
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  18. #143
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Oh, it was in 3,2,1, etc...but there are 40,000 miles on these pads/rotors with a shitload of travel trailer towing. On big passes. It was just time.

    lol Brakes should last 240,000, bro.
    You're like one of those Jetta driver Car Talk callers who thinks it's OK to rest your foot on the brake pedal, but you think the shop's ripping you off because you can't seem to get 1/4 the life out of a set of brakes as your husband...

    Protip: A lot of trailers have brakes. This is for reasons.
    Protip: "Engine braking"

  19. #144
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    Ok, but I can’t actually downshift/up shift any more than I do now.
    Not sure what you are proposing that I am doing wrong.
    Trust me, I would love to learn.
    I drove a standard for 20+ years.
    (*Almost* 1/2 million mile driver here, I have never had brakes smoke like this)
    Not enough juice with my trailer brake?

    Also:
    Click image for larger version. 

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    https://www.silveradosierra.com/brak...life-t748.html

    And OF COURSE I use engine braking, and the trailer brake on 5.5.
    “Do you even trailer, Bro?”
    Last edited by rideit; 05-16-2021 at 12:00 PM.
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  20. #145
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    Mar 2008
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    northern BC
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    I built a rack & shelf to hang the bike fleet in the shed last week hooks, some 2x4's, OSB for shelves

    the hooks might have cost 15$, the wood probably should have cost 100$ but I got it from the Telkwa Mall (AKA the dump) so it was all free

    the mall is right on the hiway on the way to GF's so its easy to drop in and grab the odd piece of good lumber (#2 & better, OSB off cuts) from a demo job
    Last edited by XXX-er; 05-16-2021 at 01:38 PM.
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  21. #146
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    Quote Originally Posted by Djongo Unchained View Post
    They say that digging postholes in the JHole really blows.
    Hence the buckrail construction

    I helped plant the aspens on top of the snow king tunnel in early November. Easily the shittiest pick ax work I’ve ever done!

  22. #147
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Ok, but I can’t actually downshift/up shift any more than I do now.
    lol


    Not sure what you are proposing that I am doing wrong.
    You are using your brakes improperly, ipso facto.


    Trust me, I would love to learn.
    A good place to start.


    I drove a standard for 20+ years.
    (*Almost* 1/2 million mile driver here, I have never had brakes smoke like this)
    Not enough juice with my trailer brake?
    Trailer brake setup is 1. You want the trailer brakes to brake first slightly, and you want them to lock up when you're on about 70% brake pedal. That keeps you pointed straight in an emergency stop. My 12,000lb RV does 70% of my braking, and stops my truck at a light, rather than my truck stopping my RV.

    2. Brakes fade when they get hot, and you lose braking and have to brake harder, which increases heat and fade to the point you have no brakes. Brakes get hot from friction in use. The heat cooks your brake pads and this releases gas which forces the pads or shoes away from the rotors or drums. Fade your brakes, and you could fail to negotiate a curve, or the town at the bottom of the hill. This is bad.

    3. You need to be slower at the top of the hill and select a lower gear, so you don't have to brake as fucking much, and risk smoking your fucking brakes. As long as your engine isn't revving over yellow line, engine braking is not at all harmful to an engine or waste gas.

    4. So you start the hill in a low gear. Your big half ton of lumber and the weight of your trailer starts shoving you down the hill, and you are really worried that the steep stretch ahead is going to put your poor little engine/driveline over redline...wat do? You stab your brakes hard for 5 seconds, once twice maybe 3 times and gear down real quick now that you are at a safe speed and won't overrev it. Now your load can't push you nearly as hard, because it has less energy to do it, and it's fighting more engine compression [revs] per a given distance it goes down the road.
    Some hilltops have signs just for heavy vehicles that rely on engine braking
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    5. Big hills have runaway truck ramps because big trucks weigh 80,000lbs or more and have to use engine braking. Of course, trucking companies are desperate for drivers because 2 tickets means their insurance companies won't insure a driver, and it's real easy to get 2 tickets in 5 years when you're driving 100,00mi/yr. So they'll hire anybody, including dumbass no-driving motherfuckers who can't drive for shit and are too goddamn dumb to learn. Runaway truck ramps give them a controlled area for them to crash their company's trucks after they fade their brakes.
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    6. Ever see tire carcasses on the freeway? They're always truck tires too, right? You don't really see car tires blowing all the way off... How do think they manage to blow like that, and so often?
    Because they've been cooked repeatedly by hot rims, that's why. Burns those tire beads and sidewalls up. My point? You did your tires and wheels no favor if your brakes got bad hot.

    Recap: set your trailer brakes to do most of your low speed braking, start a downgrade slow and in a lower gear than you would without a trailer, coast down the hill even it means someone might pass you or you're going under the speed limit when you begin, stab brakes for 5-second pulses [snub] instead of riding them to lower your speed, whatever you do don't drive around with your fucking left foot on the brake like a Jetta Driver



    CDL school:
    Last edited by highangle; 05-16-2021 at 12:51 PM.

  23. #148
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    Ok, so you admit that you don’t have any fucking idea what you are talking about.
    Again.
    This seems to be your M.O.
    You just like to fight on the internet.
    And you clearly didn’t read my posts, or the links.
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  24. #149
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    Quote Originally Posted by rideit View Post
    Ok, so you admit that you don’t have any fucking idea what you are talking about.
    Again.
    This seems to be your M.O.
    You just like to fight on the internet.
    And you clearly didn’t read my posts, or the links.
    You asked how to not torch your brakes. I told you what you're doing wrong, how brakes torch, and how to not torch your brakes.
    I don't give a fuck if they're pos Chevy brakes, you still don't know how to use them. How can I say this about a person as unique and special as you? Because you "roached" your brakes driving over Teton.

    And I do know what I'm talking about. You get 250,000 miles out of a set of pickup truck brakes towing all kind of shit, and you will too.
    Until then, pollute your world with your brake dust and keep your local shop in business replacing your "shitty" brakes every 40k miles for no reason. You know all about everything.
    Last edited by highangle; 05-16-2021 at 03:09 PM.

  25. #150
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    Feb 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by highangle View Post
    You get 250,000 miles out of a set of pickup truck brakes towing all kind of shit, and you will too.
    Until then, pollute your world with your brake dust and keep your local shop in business replacing your "shitty" brakes every 40k miles for no reason. You know all about everything.

    A quarter of a million miles while towing on a single set of pads and rotors? JFC people must love getting stuck behind you on any downgrade that exceeds 2.5 degrees

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