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  1. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,477
    Ok done new frame or bike. I will see what kona says when they open tomorrow.

    Again anyone have an idea of the weight and difference between the knolly cache steel and the kona rove? Both steel but the knolly is way more.

  2. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,477
    Got a litespeed T5 gravel. I hope TI is all that.

    I put a shaft collar on the JTS. Should be ok for the occasional city ride.

  3. #28
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Posts
    8,344
    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    Got a litespeed T5 gravel. I hope TI is all that.

    I put a shaft collar on the JTS. Should be ok for the occasional city ride.
    Being able to remove that and check it periodically is a plus. If it grows much at all maybe worth drilling very small holes at the ends of the cracks and/or trying to bond it, but IDK if you gain much doing that where the thickness is transitioning. Counterargument: if it propogates any further that's probably super bad and you don't want to keep riding it at all. But at least you've got a conservative way to find out. GL
    A woman came up to me and said "I'd like to poison your mind
    with wrong ideas that appeal to you, though I am not unkind."

  4. #29
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,477
    Yep drilled it too.

    The litespeed has a stubborn PF30. Is it ok to torch the BB? Sure it's titanium, but it's an alloy.

  5. #30
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Posts
    679
    Do you have the right bearing / cup removal tools? If not, they'll make the job easier but you generally have to wail on pressfit BBs much harder than is comfortable to remove them.

  6. #31
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    21,168
    Quote Originally Posted by Cocximus View Post
    Yep drilled it too.

    The litespeed has a stubborn PF30. Is it ok to torch the BB? Sure it's titanium, but it's an alloy.
    I'd heat gun before putting flame on a stuck bike part. But I'd just pound on it harder first.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  7. #32
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Hell Track
    Posts
    13,917
    I'd cut the BB out before I started throwing heat at the thing. (Assuming the goal is to only have one cracked bike in the fleet).

  8. #33
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Posts
    2,477
    No... I do not have the proper BB removal tool. It's shipping. I never got it since my bearings usually got stuck to the spindle and came out with the crank. Obviously I don't want to hammer too hard on it with a drift.

    I was wondering about the torch more out of curiosity. I took out seized BBs on junk aluminum bikes with an oxy acetylene torch.

    I got the praxis adapter to convert to 24 cranks I got. I'm not sure sure about it. It still pretty much a press fit and the bearings are not that common. Should I just get the FSA BB30 Threaded Adapter?

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