truck service ques for non-wrenching owner...

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Clean your maf after the gnarly fires you guys had last year

I'll ask on that -- i've been meaning to get the cabin air filter for the same reason

I'd do transmission fluid, all 3 diffs, plugs and wires, and then call it a day.

Do they put lifetime coolant in those rigs?

i do not think so but i'll ask

[klauss]

Both the cabin air filter and engine air filter swaps in my Sequoia is like a 5 minute job. You likely know this. The cabin air filter in the wifes volvo xc70 was surprisingly a bitch to access and then seat right in the compartment, but still a DIY job.

I fucked around after I was quoted some other recommended service from the yota dealer and checked with two internet "highly rated" independent shops. They somehow felt sleazier than the dealer and were not less money. Maybe they do more thorough work...The internet rating is maybe not the way to find the good independents

[mcphee]

Former dealer tech here. Here's what we did for...

Fuel Injection Service: Pull the fuel pump relay. Disconnect the fuel rail or hook into the schrader valve on the fuel rail and run the engine on a can of straight injector cleaner until it runs out.

Fuel Induction Service: Pull a vacuum line on the upper intake and hook up a can of upper intake cleaner straight to the upper intake. At operating temp, run the engine at idle until the engine has sucked all the upper intake cleaner through. Hook vacuum line back up. Get the vehicle back outside, put in park and floor the throttle, enjoy the smokeshow.

[El Chupacabra]

Do they put lifetime coolant in those rigs?

No.

If that truck still has Dex-Cool, I suggest reading up on that, and consider switching to standard Prestone type coolant -- AFTER a complete flush with water.

And to the OP -- be cautious on the term "flush" with respect to the cooling system and the transmission. IMHO do not use a chemical flush on a transmission, ever. On the cooling system, perhaps, but simply running water through until it runs clean should be sufficient. Drain all the water you can, add new coolant/water mix (with distilled water) until full. Since you will not get all the "flush water" out, I would use a slightly coolant-heavy ratio -- like 60/40 coolant/water -- and it will mix itself out over time. Check coolant system level each time after you drive, until it stabilizes -- top off as needed.

Also on the cooling and HVAC system: inspect all hoses before changing coolant. If worn, or if you do not know the history of the 10-year old vehicle, consider replacing -- the system is going to be opened up anyway, it's a good time to do it.

If you want to "flush" a transmission, do so using only transmission fluid. Drop pan, change filter, reinstall pan. Disconnect transmission cooler line. With a helper behind the steering wheel, turn on engine, let transmission pump old fluid out via cooler line -- pump out a measured amount (say, two quarts), turn off engine, refill with two fresh quarts. Repeat until the fluid coming out of the disconnected transmission cooler line looks like new fluid. Reattach cooler line, check fill level -- and check it again every time you drive, until you are certain it is at the correct level. Do not overfill.

As to the brake system, I don't know of any type of flushing other than pumping it through the system from the top (master cylinder) out through the calipers (bleed screws). Use compatible brake fluid -- probably DOT 3 on that vehicle. Do not get fancy and try to put in 5.1 thinking you are improving something.

IMHO all the recommended services are fine, if you do not know the history of the vehicle and want to baseline it -- other than "induction service," I have no idea what that is.

I would add to the list: clean MAF, clean throttle body. Inspect serpentine and A/C belts. If worn, replace; if replacing the serpentine belt, replace the tensioner at the same time.

[caulfield]

I'll ask on that -- i've been meaning to get the cabin air filter for the same reason

You don't have one unless you or previous owner installed a retrofit.

+1 to whoever has said do most of it. At least on the previous generation, the power steering flush made a noticeable difference starting right around 100k. N=1, but I'd do it.

No reason you can't break it up, none of them are sequentially dependent or require the same stuff to be removed. But if your mechanic charges more for the first hour or the dealer is far away, maybe just save up and do it in a couple thousand miles. Nothing is going to fail right now.

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thx, all
you guys have been super helpful