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  1. #26
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    While you're waiting for the fondue to heat up...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jer View Post
    After the first three seconds, Corbet's is really pretty average.
    Quote Originally Posted by Ian Malcolm View Post
    I mean, it's not your fault. They say talent skips a generation.
    But hey, I'm sure your kids will be sharp as tacks.

  2. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    If I tried to hot wax it would just never get done cuz i don't like to work on bikes that much
    I get that.

    I would say that hot melt is probably quicker than most people think, especially if you donít unnecessarily complicate the process - literally a few minutes of actual working time - and there are significant, measurable, performance/cost/longevity benefits compared to to their lubes.

  3. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Haha. Shit I love working on bikes, but the hot wax crock pot thing honestly didn't impress me all that much. Better than crappy oil lubes that attract dirt, yes. Better than UFO? Not in my experience.
    Good hot melt (Molten Speed Wax, Silca) tests a bit better than UFO drip, but UFO drip tested really, really well. Running costs are still noticeably lower with hot melt than UFO - both due to wear, and cost of lube itself. Also, longevity per application of (good, commercial) hot melt is about twice as long as UFO, so factor that into time spent. (The good test results for UFO had the lube applied twice as frequently as the hot melt tests, per Ceramic Speed instruction, and single application test bore out that requirement)
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  4. #29
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    Only reason I am waxing eloquent on the virtues of wax is cuz I can drip it on and there are no downsides, other wise I would still be dripping petro lube
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  5. #30
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    Jun 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    Only reason I am waxing eloquent on the virtues of wax is cuz I can drip it on and there are no downsides, other wise I would still be dripping petro lube
    I’d argue that there are definite measurable downsides with Squirt compared to some other options (hot melt, newer generation wax drip lubes), but that doesn’t mean those benefits, and all other things considered (time, cost, ease, etc.) are big enough to convince someone to change.

    For what it’s worth, Zero Friction also runs a retail store, and they only sell lubes that test well and they would recommend. Squirt is still in the store, so it’s not like it’s an awful lube.

    What you won’t find in the store are any heavy oils, any ‘dry’ lubes, or any Muc Off lubes, cause those all test for shit.

    Edit:Zero Friction moved on from Squirt to Smoove, so maybe Squirt is awful, or maybe just consider moving to Smoove as well.

    All the above said, the only reason I can see for not moving from Squirt/Smoove to a newer style wax lube - like UFO drip/Silca Super Secret/Tru Tungsten - is cost. They apply the same way, and they outperform Squirt/Smoove everywhere. And if you consider running cost instead of just lube costs, the more expensive lubes aren’t so expensive.

  6. #31
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    Jun 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by One (+) Sentence View Post
    I havenít performed any tests, or studied data of any tests. But, I have mountain biked around the intermountain west and desert southwest a good deal and have used lots of different chain lubes.

    For the last couple years I have been a big fan of Muc Off C3 Ceramic Dry. In my experience itís been better than Rock N Roll and Squirt which are both quite popular here.

    I have a little sample bottle of the UFO but have only put it on other peopleís bikes. It seems like one of those lubes where you shake the bottle like crazy, then squeeze hard as shit and nothing happens, then all of a sudden it spooges like 1oz. on a single link. Maybe thatís what makes it so good? Or maybe I just need to buy a crockpot?
    Zero Friction is the only company that has ever done, and is currently doing, structured controlled lab chain wear testing for lubes. And they wear test for clean chain/dry contamination/wet contamination. Having that structured testing is really the best (only?) way to get to real definitive conclusions on what works, and when.

    They havenít tested the Muc Off C3, but did test the Hydrodynamic and Nano, and those were two off the worst lubes ever tested.

    Canít speak to the spooge situation with UFO, but maybe try poking the tip of the bottle with something before applying? Sounds like some lube has dried and hardened. Itís likely a much better lube than the Muc Off

  7. #32
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    Jun 2008
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    Iíve been Molten Speed Queso-ing then using a tiny bit of Squirt to augment when I can start to hear a chirp or even just a little more Ďmechanicalí noise from my drivetrain. Itís been working great and chainwear measurement has been insanely good.
    Iíve also had chirps disappear after a few minutes of pedaling as I assume the wax is warming up and re-penetrating where it needs to be.
    Weíll be rolling out some sort of hot wax treatment/subscription at the shop next spring, for sure.


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  8. #33
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    Jan 2017
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    Iíve had a pretty great experience with molten speedwax since July. The initial clean is work, but probably work everyone should be doing because all lubes perform better/your chain will last longer if you remove the factory sludge. My bike is currently filthy. It might have been that way most of the fall. I havenít touched the chain other than a light rinse with cold water once since late July. Gx drivetrain still shifting incredible. I ride in a very dirty area. I will not go back. Have already converted the wifeís rig. Going to do the kids bikes and light all remaining heavy oil lubes on fire. Except I wonít because environment. I mean, I probably wonít.


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  9. #34
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    May 2008
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    On a genuine ol' fashioned authentic steam powered aereoplane
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgiaSnow View Post
    I’ve had a pretty great experience with molten speedwax since July. The initial clean is work, but probably work everyone should be doing because all lubes perform better/your chain will last longer if you remove the factory sludge. My bike is currently filthy. It might have been that way most of the fall. I haven’t touched the chain other than a light rinse with cold water once since late July. Gx drivetrain still shifting incredible. I ride in a very dirty area. I will not go back. Have already converted the wife’s rig. Going to do the kids bikes and light all remaining heavy oil lubes on fire. Except I won’t because environment. I mean, I probably won’t.


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    Dirty area as in wet or as in dusty?

    I found that with the melted queso I was still having the super fine moon dust sticking to the drivetrain. Obviously not nearly as bad with oil lubes though.

  10. #35
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    Jun 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by Whiteroom_Guardian View Post
    Dirty area as in wet or as in dusty?

    I found that with the melted queso I was still having the super fine moon dust sticking to the drivetrain. Obviously not nearly as bad with oil lubes though.
    I live in Truckee (Tahoe), and we have some pretty fantastic moon dust here. Before going to Molten Speed Wax, I tried the Silca Super Secret drip for a short period of time, but moondust was sticking to it. Dust doesnít stick to the MSW, at all.

    MSW isnít made of regular off the shelf store parrafin, my understanding is they use a very refined, lab-grade low oil wax, and it does feel super dry to the touch.

    I think you only tried the homemade Queso route, and had some beeswax in it? Beeswax is normally tacky, so if dust was an issue, that could have been the problem.

    If someone wants to try the Queso bath method, they really should strongly considering just buying Molten Speed Wax, itís not very expensive considering how much you get - remember itís 100% lube, no solvent/water - and itís going to work better than anything you make yourself. Silca Hot Melt also works very well based on testing, but no better (or even slightly worse) than MSW, and the Silca is much more expensive.

  11. #36
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    May 2008
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    Yes I was adding beeswax to my parrafin in the fondue pot.

  12. #37
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    Feb 2011
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    I found that MSW will pick up some dust, but the dust doesnít work itself into the chain (since itís already full of MSW). A quick rinse or wipe and itís GTG.


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  13. #38
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    Jan 2006
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    Quote Originally Posted by joetron View Post
    I’ve been Molten Speed Queso-ing then using a tiny bit of Squirt to augment when I can start to hear a chirp or even just a little more ‘mechanical’ noise from my drivetrain. It’s been working great and chainwear measurement has been insanely good.
    I’ve also had chirps disappear after a few minutes of pedaling as I assume the wax is warming up and re-penetrating where it needs to be.
    We’ll be rolling out some sort of hot wax treatment/subscription at the shop next spring, for sure.


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    That's such a good idea
    www.dpsskis.com
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    formerly an ambassador for a few others, but the ski industry is... interesting.
    Fukt: a very small amount of snow.

  14. #39
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    Jun 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by grskier View Post
    That's such a good idea
    Similarly, Iím keeping my Silca drip around as a fall back if I donít get around to hot waxing - havenít needed it yet.

    Not sure how itís working with the Squirt over the MSW, but in general Squirt is quite difficult to clean off the chain, whereas hot wax and some of the newer drip waxes can be cleaned off the chain with just some swishing around in hot water. Maybe something to keep in mind when choosing a lube to supplement hot wax.

  15. #40
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    Video that covers the hot wax process, from removing chain from bike, thru waxing, to reinstalling chain. Actual hot wax process is covered from minutes 8-13:

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=NdmriYX76NE#menu

  16. #41
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    Jun 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by J. Barron DeJong View Post
    Similarly, I’m keeping my Silca drip around as a fall back if I don’t get around to hot waxing - haven’t needed it yet.

    Not sure how it’s working with the Squirt over the MSW, but in general Squirt is quite difficult to clean off the chain, whereas hot wax and some of the newer drip waxes can be cleaned off the chain with just some swishing around in hot water. Maybe something to keep in mind when choosing a lube to supplement hot wax.
    We've been trying some different supplemental lubes, but haven't tried the Silca or UFO. Trying to stick more with a wax based and since we're not using much at all, cleaning has not been an issue. Its not anywhere near a full application of Squirt.
    As far as cleaning goes before a Re-Molten Speed Queso-ing, we have an old Nalgene that we put some solvent from the tank in, and soak/shake it for a minute or two. Shake/wipe dry and hit with some air, then another minute or two in a bottle with some denatured alcohol for the final clean and that stuff evaporates off it in a few min. Then the queso dip.
    I just looked at UFO....$45msrp?!! Even at cost, that seems bonkers, but I guess it lasts.

  17. #42
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    Jun 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by joetron View Post
    We've been trying some different supplemental lubes, but haven't tried the Silca or UFO. Trying to stick more with a wax based and since we're not using much at all, cleaning has not been an issue. Its not anywhere near a full application of Squirt.
    As far as cleaning goes before a Re-Molten Speed Queso-ing, we have an old Nalgene that we put some solvent from the tank in, and soak/shake it for a minute or two. Shake/wipe dry and hit with some air, then another minute or two in a bottle with some denatured alcohol for the final clean and that stuff evaporates off it in a few min. Then the queso dip.
    I just looked at UFO....$45msrp?!! Even at cost, that seems bonkers, but I guess it lasts.
    Silca Super Secret Drip/Tru-Tension Tungsten All Weather/Ceramic Speed UFO Drip are all newer style wax lubes where the waxes in the formula are the same types as being used in Molten Speed Wax/Silca Hot Melt.

    Because they are more highly refined/lower oil, they can all be cleaned by simply swishing the chain around in a few changes of hot water; the wax just melts out and floats in the water.

    Maybe not as big an issue for a shop where you have solvent tanks anyway, and are likely filtering/recirculating that solvent, but for cleaning at home it’s really nice to be able to just clean with hot water instead of dealing with the cost and disposal of solvents.
    Last edited by J. Barron DeJong; 12-02-2021 at 10:51 PM.

  18. #43
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    Oct 2002
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    The Hot Tub of Queso/Waxed Chain Thread

    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgiaSnow View Post
    The initial clean is work
    Doesnít have to be. Similar to joetron, I shake in a jar of mineral spirits followed by a shake in a jar of alcohol. Easy peasy, and if you cap the containers you can reuse the juice, nearly infinitely if youíre willing to occasionally filter. I still use drip queso (Smoove), though.

    Quote Originally Posted by joetron View Post
    As far as cleaning goes before a Re-Molten Speed Queso-ing, we have an old Nalgene that we put some solvent from the tank in, and soak/shake it for a minute or two. Shake/wipe dry and hit with some air, then another minute or two in a bottle with some denatured alcohol for the final clean and that stuff evaporates off it in a few min.
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  19. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by GeorgiaSnow View Post
    The initial clean is work, but probably work everyone should be doing because all lubes perform better/your chain will last longer if you remove the factory sludge.
    It can be, I tried naptha ( white gas ) cuz there was a can in the shed ... works great

    Take the chain off, put it on a piece of wire for ease of handling , coil chain into the bottom of a jam jar , pour in enough white gas ( naptha ) to cover the chain by an inch, no scrubbing is needed just let it sit over night in a jar with the lid on, in the am pull the chain out let it hang for a few minutes, the naptha will evap instantly and the chain will be 100 % clean/ dry


    simple green is bad for soaking parts, as far as I know soaking in naptha has no ill effect on metal

    white gas for your coleman stove cost is about 20$ a gallon so the same, naptha can be used > once, its flammmable so don't burn your garage down
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #45
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    Jun 2020
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    It can be, I tried naptha ( white gas ) cuz there was a can in the shed ... works great

    Take the chain off, put it on a piece of wire for ease of handling , coil chain into the bottom of a jam jar , pour in enough white gas ( naptha ) to cover the chain by an inch, no scrubbing is needed just let it sit over night in a jar with the lid on, in the am pull the chain out let it hang for a few minutes, the naptha will evap instantly and the chain will be 100 % clean/ dry


    simple green is bad for soaking parts, as far as I know soaking in naptha has no ill effect on metal

    white gas for your coleman stove cost is about 20$ a gallon so the same, naptha can be used > once, its flammmable so don't burn your garage down
    Agree, Coleman fuel works great. I still followed up with an alcohol rinse just to be sure there wouldnít be any residue left.

    Regular simple green can cause hydrogen embrittlement, donít leave your parts soaking in that. There is also Simple Green Extreme Aircraft, which wonít cause embrittlement and should be safe to soak parts in.

  21. #46
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    The chain looked 100% petro free/ clean/ dry, so i was good with that

    after cleaning off the naptha residue with alcohol what did you use to deal with the alcohol residue ?
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  22. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    The chain looked 100% petro free/ clean/ dry, so i was good with that

    after cleaning off the naptha residue with alcohol what did you use to deal with the alcohol residue ?
    No noticeable residue from the Naptha, just followed it up with alcohol since thatís the recommended final step from Squirt and others - but theyíre typically using mineral spirits instead of Naptha in the first step.

    Alcohol should completely evaporate. Hydrocarbon solvents could have some heavier molecules (oil/grease) that donít evaporate easily; more heavier molecules in Mineral Spirits than Naptha though.

  23. #48
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    Dude, I was just yanking your chain
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  24. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    Dude, I was just yanking your chain
    Sarcasm detector fails me sometimes, which is ironic since Iím a pretty sarcastic SOB

  25. #50
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    I thot yanking your chain in a thread on chainlube was priceless
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

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