Pulse Labs Proflex

[tdpdx]

I'm just going to leave an update here on my experience with Pulse.

In light of the proflex not fitting my boot in the way that their ad copy and install video explicitly claimed it would, I asked if they'd give me a return shipping label. They would not. So I can pay $20 to ship them back to canada and be in the hole $30 for shipping, total, to get a $65 refund.

In none of my communication with them did they even offer the hint of an acknowledgement that the information about their product is incomplete (misleading, actually) on their site. If they'd just said, hey sorry we fucked up on that, here's what you have to do, we promise your boots won't explode, I could have walked away happy. But they didn't and it's a little bit fucking annoying and I'd rather not support the company.
There, that's my story. YMMV.

I recommend checking out GoldenBC's threads for ways to make your own. Seems like a lot more fun and you don't have to give a nickel to the vacuum cleaner salesmen.

Now, can any of you bootfitters tell my what the easiest way to cut boot plastic is?

Your experience made me decide not to buy, and that was before your update. Not making it right with your customers over 30 dollars really pisses me off.

So, time to go the DIY route with old boots. Trouble for me is that I just gave away my old boots so I reckon it's time to do some bargain hunting. I was planning to use a Dremel to cut them fwiw.

[WhetherMan]

Yeah I don't get it, and I admit it got under my skin.

Dremel seems like a reasonable solution. I've got an ancient pair of Cochise waiting to go under the knife. My ZGTPs with tour wraps are actually skiing well enough that I lost some motivation, but I'm still going to try this. Hopefully you can score some thrift store specials.

[GoldenBC]

This is awesome. Any tips on how to heat and cut? I've got some boots ready for surgery. A hacksaw blade was my first thought, clean it up with a rasp or file. Did this help with the lower bowing out on lighter boots like the hawx xtd or ZGTP, etc? Or did you turn to the dalbello tongue mod for that?

A heat gun and a utility knife (1" OLFA is my go to for any knife work) make easy work for cutting boots. I try to use a dremel as little as possible because they make a mess.

Heat up the boot (doesn't have to get super warm) and start cutting. Once you are able to flex the boot to open the cut and stretch the plastic it will cut with little to no effort.

Use a boot the same size as yours so they sit tight together. Going one size bigger works fine too.

For best results use a boot that has single injection plastic. No soft flap garbage thats meant for making it easier to put on your boots.

Use the medial (inside) piece of the spare boot on the medial side of the good boot and orient it it's natural way. Having the top of the piece not go higher than the top of the stock piece retains walk mode, and having the piece long and bolted in with both lower buckle holes adds stiffness and I like to believe it redirects forces away from the navicular area and prevents blowing out.

Everyone that I have done this for has said it resists blowing out the ankles way more. The key is to have the piece big enough that it curves around the side of the boot. This curve adds significant forward stiffness and seems to add lateral stiffness as well.

For my own Hawx XTD, I used the Dalbello tongue because I wanted them way stiffer and I wanted to see if it was possible. I am beyond stoked on how they worked and can't ski them without the tongue anymore.

[GoldenBC]

You should also be able to cannabalize Krypton tongues. I used one to raise the cuff on my XTDs, although I wish I had kept the ankle curve now. Was worried it would destroy walk mode ROM

Edit: JK, forgot Krypton tongues have the spring shape at the bend. Can't. That's why I didnt keep

It works fine. There is the slightest interference on the upper cuff and those spring shapes but when you do your boots up tight it all meshes seamlessly. https://www.tetongravity.com/forums/...light=lupohawx

[GoldenBC]

Last one. Just another pic for reference.

[gregL]

A heat gun and a utility knife (1" OLFA is my go to for any knife work) make easy work for cutting boots. I try to use a dremel as little as possible because they make a mess. Heat up the boot (doesn't have to get super warm) and start cutting. Once you are able to flex the boot to open the cut and stretch the plastic it will cut with little to no effort.

Thanks for the how-to tutorial, GoldenBC! I like to use the heat gun to thoroughly soften the plastic, then cut with a pair of quality poultry shears that I keep very sharp . . . seems like I can control the cut better.

[johansoderlund]

I've done a test ride and it's a significant difference. I have the Technica Mach 1 MV 130 and they work fine in winter temps -5 C and colder but now in spring they tend to soften a bit.

[waxman]

Last one. Just another pic for reference.

Nice work there GoldenBC.