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Thread: DPS delam: any hope?
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02-16-2021, 07:27 PM #1
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02-16-2021, 07:33 PM #2Registered User
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Epoxy should be fine. Looks like just the top sheet. Nothing structural.
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02-16-2021, 07:36 PM #3Registered User
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It’s just cosmetic. Trim. Epoxy to close the edge. Ski.
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02-16-2021, 07:40 PM #4
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02-16-2021, 07:45 PM #5
My wailers did that when I chopped the tails. I used hardman orange and some clamps. Mask off the base because you’re gonna squeeze some epoxy out when you clamp it.
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02-16-2021, 07:58 PM #6
You guys are the fkn raddest
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02-16-2021, 08:39 PM #7Registered User
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I have 2 pair of the 2011 lotus 120 only 3 S/N apart
one has that plastic top sheet shit seperated along the edges and the other does not but no idea why,
I slopped some slowset epoxy in there and clamped, I used the shovel of one ski to be the clamp form for the ski being glued if that makes cents
just cover it all with tape/ saran wrap so you don't get epoxy where you don't want itLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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02-16-2021, 10:01 PM #8
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02-16-2021, 10:12 PM #9Registered User
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02-17-2021, 05:13 AM #10
Chose the right epoxy. Hardware store shit is brittle.
Hardman orange is the right call.. . .
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02-17-2021, 05:26 AM #11
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02-17-2021, 08:24 AM #12
Technically 100% true, but structurally insignificant. Just a translucent cosmetic film that might look worse after it's "fixed" than if it was just cut off. If the paint peels off my car, it still drives the same.
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02-17-2021, 10:02 AM #13
Didn't claim structural integrity to be compromised. Delam is a delam, which also includes coreshots.
Who cares about the looks, it's about stopping further delam. I bet from tip to tail that skin has an affect on damping. I mean, I doubt DPS added that skin because the ski was too light. Yes, I realize just nipping the tip would have neglible affect on this.
Peeling auto paint, if not fixed, will peel further. Further, automotive paint is not for just aesthetics.
Just sayin
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02-17-2021, 10:13 AM #14
That is a separation between the ink and the plastic top sheet material. The ink is not waterproof, and if that is a hybrid ski, the laminate may not be entirely water proof. So if you do cut it, I would suggest at the minimum using urethane sealant on top of the ink to keep water out of the core.
or try to glue it. With a good adhesive as discussed above, and the other ski as a form, should repair fine. And if it doesn’t, cut it and seal it.
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02-17-2021, 10:19 AM #15
I got tired of gluing all the top sheet tears on mine, so I slice them off with a razor, then glue the edge to stop it from continuing. I have no idea if moisture is getting in there, (they're Pures), but I kinda don't care. I like the look.
Well maybe I'm the faggot America
I'm not a part of a redneck agenda
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02-17-2021, 10:38 AM #16
Use heat. During repair AND curing process too
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02-17-2021, 10:41 AM #17
Thanks Marshall, I stand corrected. I assumed there was a layer(s) of epoxy-soaked fiberglass or carbon between the ink and core, and never imagined water could pass through that layer(s).
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02-17-2021, 10:54 AM #18
Also you should probably flame treat the underside after sand and cleaning with acetone or denatured alcohol(preferably acetone)
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02-17-2021, 11:29 AM #19Registered User
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Peeling off in one big neat sheet like that should be pretty easy to glue
my 184's only peeled about 1/2 inch in some spots from the edges even in places i didnt knock the edges, I wasnt about to try peeling it all back so I just pried it up enough to jam some good slowset in there & clamped, some of it stuck and some of it came loose, its a maintenance thingLee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know
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02-17-2021, 12:25 PM #20
The Pure skis, and metal skis, are for sure water proof laminates. I could not be certain on any non-prepreg glass ski. I mean, they probably are, in most spots, especially near the edge/above the sidewall, but something that big, I would advise to seal. Better safe than sorry.
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02-17-2021, 03:18 PM #21kittyhump.com - Fund Max, Cat Appreciation, Bike
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03-15-2021, 10:44 AM #22
My 2011's did this too. I used gFlex epoxy with a syringe and caught it early by injecting into the small bubbles before they combined and morphed into a flap. New areas failed and opened up later and the syringe method worked on them too. I agree to use a little heat to help the epoxy move into the margins. Toddball's technique could be improved upon with some plastic scrapers, I used them on top and bottom of skis to even out the pressure from the clamps. The wax all over them kept them from sticking to the epoxy. A razor blade and file help to clean up the spooges.
My friend had the flap and couldn't get the epoxy to stick, I think it got dirty in there. He tried twice then just cut it off. Best to catch it early on this vintage DPS.
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