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  1. #1
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    DPS delam: any hope?

    These are my bro’s skis.

    Any hope? He was gonna try to epoxy + clamp.

    I think he’s pretty much fucked


    Whattya think? Trim off the offending flapper? Glue it down?

    Burn as an offering to ullr?

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  2. #2
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    Epoxy should be fine. Looks like just the top sheet. Nothing structural.

    Sent from my F1 using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    It’s just cosmetic. Trim. Epoxy to close the edge. Ski.

  4. #4
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    Give it three or four shots of novacaine then use a high speed drill to cut it off.
    Quote Originally Posted by Downbound Train View Post
    And there will come a day when our ancestors look back...........

  5. #5
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    My wailers did that when I chopped the tails. I used hardman orange and some clamps. Mask off the base because you’re gonna squeeze some epoxy out when you clamp it.

  6. #6
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    You guys are the fkn raddest

  7. #7
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    I have 2 pair of the 2011 lotus 120 only 3 S/N apart

    one has that plastic top sheet shit seperated along the edges and the other does not but no idea why,

    I slopped some slowset epoxy in there and clamped, I used the shovel of one ski to be the clamp form for the ski being glued if that makes cents

    just cover it all with tape/ saran wrap so you don't get epoxy where you don't want it
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by kathleenturneroverdrive View Post
    It’s just cosmetic. Trim. Epoxy to close the edge. Ski.
    This. Not a structural delam. Cut off flap, run a small bead of epoxy along seam so it doesn't catch on stuff.
    Last edited by 1000-oaks; 02-17-2021 at 08:24 AM.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    Quote Originally Posted by XXX-er View Post
    I used the shovel of one ski to be the clamp form for the ski being glued if that makes cents

    just cover it all with tape/ saran wrap so you don't get epoxy where you don't want it
    I like that idea, good thinking

  10. #10
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    Chose the right epoxy. Hardware store shit is brittle.

    Hardman orange is the right call.
    . . .

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1000-oaks View Post
    This. Not a delam. Cut off flap, run a small bead of epoxy along seam so it doesn't catch on stuff.
    Very much a delam.
    Rough it up, clean it, epoxy it, cover with plastic and use the tip of the other ski as a form to clamp it

  12. #12
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    Technically 100% true, but structurally insignificant. Just a translucent cosmetic film that might look worse after it's "fixed" than if it was just cut off. If the paint peels off my car, it still drives the same.

  13. #13
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    Didn't claim structural integrity to be compromised. Delam is a delam, which also includes coreshots.
    Who cares about the looks, it's about stopping further delam. I bet from tip to tail that skin has an affect on damping. I mean, I doubt DPS added that skin because the ski was too light. Yes, I realize just nipping the tip would have neglible affect on this.
    Peeling auto paint, if not fixed, will peel further. Further, automotive paint is not for just aesthetics.
    Just sayin

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
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    That is a separation between the ink and the plastic top sheet material. The ink is not waterproof, and if that is a hybrid ski, the laminate may not be entirely water proof. So if you do cut it, I would suggest at the minimum using urethane sealant on top of the ink to keep water out of the core.

    or try to glue it. With a good adhesive as discussed above, and the other ski as a form, should repair fine. And if it doesn’t, cut it and seal it.

  15. #15
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    I got tired of gluing all the top sheet tears on mine, so I slice them off with a razor, then glue the edge to stop it from continuing. I have no idea if moisture is getting in there, (they're Pures), but I kinda don't care. I like the look.
    Well maybe I'm the faggot America
    I'm not a part of a redneck agenda

  16. #16
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    Use heat. During repair AND curing process too

  17. #17
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    Thanks Marshall, I stand corrected. I assumed there was a layer(s) of epoxy-soaked fiberglass or carbon between the ink and core, and never imagined water could pass through that layer(s).

  18. #18
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    Also you should probably flame treat the underside after sand and cleaning with acetone or denatured alcohol(preferably acetone)

  19. #19
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    Peeling off in one big neat sheet like that should be pretty easy to glue

    my 184's only peeled about 1/2 inch in some spots from the edges even in places i didnt knock the edges, I wasnt about to try peeling it all back so I just pried it up enough to jam some good slowset in there & clamped, some of it stuck and some of it came loose, its a maintenance thing
    Lee Lau - xxx-er is the laziest Asian canuck I know

  20. #20
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    Nov 2018
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    The Pure skis, and metal skis, are for sure water proof laminates. I could not be certain on any non-prepreg glass ski. I mean, they probably are, in most spots, especially near the edge/above the sidewall, but something that big, I would advise to seal. Better safe than sorry.

  21. #21
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    G-flex epoxy works okay

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  22. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    My 2011's did this too. I used gFlex epoxy with a syringe and caught it early by injecting into the small bubbles before they combined and morphed into a flap. New areas failed and opened up later and the syringe method worked on them too. I agree to use a little heat to help the epoxy move into the margins. Toddball's technique could be improved upon with some plastic scrapers, I used them on top and bottom of skis to even out the pressure from the clamps. The wax all over them kept them from sticking to the epoxy. A razor blade and file help to clean up the spooges.

    My friend had the flap and couldn't get the epoxy to stick, I think it got dirty in there. He tried twice then just cut it off. Best to catch it early on this vintage DPS.

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