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  1. #101
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    985
    Quote Originally Posted by bagtagley View Post
    Doesn't FWC sell a winter kit?
    Yes, it's a double layer on the fabric portion only. Roof and non-fabric walls have zero insulation, and aluminum readily transmit the cold. (2) new 12 v batteries didn't last the nights in Yellowstone last month, even after topping up batts w a genny prior to sleeping.

  2. #102
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    985
    Quote Originally Posted by adrenalated View Post
    I've seen this complaint from a few FWC owners and am glad I didn't get one. My Outfiitter does awesome in very, very cold weather. The soft wall is surprisingly insulated. I do have to fill propane about every 3-4 days in the middle of winter, but the battery is more likely to be the limiting factor in how long I can stay in one place.

    My choice had been a Hallmark, the FWC, was a stop gap measure to get in the game and it works on my truck.

    But now I'm not so sure about the Hallmark or pop ups in general. I am strongly considering a Northern Lite or Bigfoot now, since I'm going to get a 1T truck anyway.

  3. #103
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    LV-426
    Posts
    18,847
    Quote Originally Posted by highangle View Post
    What year is your truck? Is it a 6.7?
    2022. 7.3 gas. Ordered it spec'd out as minimally (inexpensively) as I could, for camper carrying purposes. Maybe it's pandemic build quality, maybe Ford's body assembly line workers just don't give a shit... but the fit and finish is sloppy -- as in worse than any other vehicle I've ever owned, and I've owned several Jeep products. It's mostly been stuff I've found and fixed myself -- stuff that looks like there was zero quality control inspection before the truck got shipped, or someone would have noticed and corrected it. Off the top of my head:

    - Exterior window trim partially loose, on two doors. Snapped into place.
    - Center hub cap trim loose, on two wheels. Snapped into place. Possibly dealer's responsibility, but then, they didn't catch it either.
    - Center console has tape visible along part of the trim; looks like something to be removed upon assembly, but wasn't. Dealer claims normal, which is bullshit, as no other truck I've seen has it. Haven't gotten around to disassembling console to remove it myself.
    - Front bumper has rubber trim piece above it, between bumper and grille. Trim folded over and installed incorrectly. Pushed it back in place.
    - Random scraps of electrical protective tape found scattered around engine compartment. Leftover from installation of electrical harnesses and nobody bothered cleaning up?
    - When replacing tail light bulbs with LED bulbs -- passenger side lamp assembly plastic prong (designed to snap into a fitting in the body) was shoved into body to the side of the fitting, not inside the fitting as designed.
    - Intermittent issue with driver's power window -- when rolled partway down and I pull the switch to raise the glass, it rolls down on occasion. Not sure what's going on with this... will bring it to the dealer sometime to correct.
    - Passenger rear door does not sit flush in the cab shell -- lower end of door sits slightly outwards. No wind noise or water leaks, so maybe just ignore this... Apparently Ford's aluminum body trucks all have alignment issues, so I'll count myself lucky that the rest of the body panels have reasonably even panel gaps and alignment, and the paint seems OK.
    - All-important "4X4" sticker on passenger side applied unevenly -- there's a wrinkle in the sticker. The workers clearly just did not give a shit.

    Otherwise, all the important stuff works fine, no other electrical issues, no drivetrain issues.

    I bought an extended warranty.
    Quote Originally Posted by powder11 View Post
    if you have to resort to taking advice from the nitwits on this forum, then you're doomed.

  4. #104
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Wasatch
    Posts
    1,198
    for a moment I thought that disgusting laundry list of bullshit applied to a Toyota truck and I was in shock and disbelief.

    Now that I realize it’s a Ford, I’m not really surprised.

  5. #105
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    My Happy Place
    Posts
    679
    All I can add is my experience with an '06 stock Tundra with FWC Hawk I have owned for the last 5 years. Has 148000 on it, bought it at 75000 with the camper on it. Also big ass steel customer front bumper and custom rear bumper with swing outs for bikes and cooler came on it. Is it over weight, for sure. Did I know that when I bought it, no. I've done a ton of research into liability, GVWR's and such since I have learned more.

    Liability issues: Looking into this the only legal precedence I could find the insurance company was made to pay because they insured both the camper and truck and it was argued they should have been aware.

    Safety issues: I have airbags and e rated tires. I drive super defensive because it definitely isn't a sports car. But until recently it has felt fine(more on that later). It has way better pickup than shit I drove in the 80's with the camper and stops reasonably.

    Reliability: It has definitely put more wear and tear on the truck suspension. I've used this rig hard and regularly have taken it on "Intermediate" 4wd roads in OC and UT. The front end is now shot. It's getting Toytec front shocks and bilstein rears with no lift. Pretty much a whole new front end. Sway bar snapped on me a couple weeks ago. The engine and drive train have been a champ. Regular maintenance and that's it.

    Overview: I've been thinking about a new rig. Isn't anything that excites me right now. 3/4 and 1 ton trucks definitely would keep me off of trails I have been able to do in this truck because of size. And I don't want the hassle of that size truck. Even the new tundras are big. No body's reliability comes close to Toyota. That matters a ton to me. MPG's suck. I want to go electric eventually, but with no garage and electrics losing up to 40% of there range in freezing temps, that doesn't work for me. I'm hoping to keep this truck long enough to make electric my next move though. Hopefully an electric tundra.

  6. #106
    Join Date
    Oct 2002
    Location
    Shadynasty's Jazz Club
    Posts
    9,599
    Quote Originally Posted by Hopeless Sinner View Post
    Yes, it's a double layer on the fabric portion only. Roof and non-fabric walls have zero insulation, and aluminum readily transmit the cold. (2) new 12 v batteries didn't last the nights in Yellowstone last month, even after topping up batts w a genny prior to sleeping.
    Interesting, I assumed the hard walls were at least minimally insulated and that the roof was honeycomb or some such. How cold did it get at night?
    Remind me. We'll send him a red cap and a Speedo.

  7. #107
    Join Date
    Dec 2020
    Location
    Idaho
    Posts
    985
    It was just in the low 20'sF. And there's condensation issues whether the furnace is on or not.

  8. #108
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Sölden
    Posts
    415
    Late to the party.
    I've got a 195k miled 2012 Tundra sitting on 35's, OME suspension all around, airbags, sway bar that hauls 2k in its bed(HARDside camper) 4-6 weeks per year. Swing out hitch, 2x bikes. I figure I'm at 2k-2200 extra on the truck depending on if I have someone with me or not. Literally it hauls it fine. Not good. Fine. I live in Colorado and its entire hauling career is in the mountains or Moab or both. I'll never sell it. My daily driver. Replaced suspension, coils, plugs, starter, alternator, water pump. Should be good for another 100-150k until I retire it which then it'll be a farm truck when I buy a new electric truck. By far the most reliable truck I've ever had.
    I literally traded in a nice 2004 Dodge 5.9 pre-emissions 2500 6sp, with 225k on it for it that I had to replaced EVERYTHING except the motor and transmission(original clutch went at 220k) Before that, 02' dodge with 340k on it, 96' Powerstroke etc. You get the idea.
    I'll never go back to a 3/4 ton/1 ton truck if I am only using it 4-6 weeks a year where it is needed. Tundra works awesome. They'll hold up and be much nicer to use daily driving.

  9. #109
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    cordova,AK
    Posts
    3,203
    Quote Originally Posted by Tryingtostaywarm View Post
    Late to the party.
    I've got a 195k miled 2012 Tundra sitting on 35's, OME suspension all around, airbags, sway bar that hauls 2k in its bed(HARDside camper) 4-6 weeks per year. Swing out hitch, 2x bikes. I figure I'm at 2k-2200 extra on the truck depending on if I have someone with me or not. Literally it hauls it fine. Not good. Fine. I live in Colorado and its entire hauling career is in the mountains or Moab or both. I'll never sell it. My daily driver. Replaced suspension, coils, plugs, starter, alternator, water pump. Should be good for another 100-150k until I retire it which then it'll be a farm truck when I buy a new electric truck. By far the most reliable truck I've ever had.
    I literally traded in a nice 2004 Dodge 5.9 pre-emissions 2500 6sp, with 225k on it for it that I had to replaced EVERYTHING except the motor and transmission(original clutch went at 220k) Before that, 02' dodge with 340k on it, 96' Powerstroke etc. You get the idea.
    I'll never go back to a 3/4 ton/1 ton truck if I am only using it 4-6 weeks a year where it is needed. Tundra works awesome. They'll hold up and be much nicer to use daily driving.
    What is your mpg?

  10. #110
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Sölden
    Posts
    415
    Quote Originally Posted by BFD View Post
    What is your mpg?
    Terrible. Getting about 8-10mpg. But, here is the kicker. I was getting 15mpg from Denver to Crested butte over the pass and back in my Dodge cummins 6sp. Now, what sucks is because it was so low geared, I did a trip from Denver to the mid-west and back. 75mph speed limit = 80mph = low gearing = 10mpg the entire time because I was about 2300-2400rpms the entire time. Dodge's like 2k. Same load on both trucks. That was the actual trip that I said I'm done with older diesels, cost of repair etc. for what I'm using it for. I'll rather have the Tundra, max that truck out every now and then, and have a really nice daily driver then drive a bigger truck, with more pricey operating costs.
    Now, if I had all the $ I'd be driving a Dodge 2500 power wagon with a 6.4, replace the suspension and be done. But..$15-18k Tundra vs $50k Dodge truck = I can do 8mpg for a longgggg time.

  11. #111
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    3,681
    Quote Originally Posted by Tryingtostaywarm View Post
    Terrible. Getting about 8-10mpg. But, here is the kicker. I was getting 15mpg from Denver to Crested butte over the pass and back in my Dodge cummins 6sp. Now, what sucks is because it was so low geared, I did a trip from Denver to the mid-west and back. 75mph speed limit = 80mph = low gearing = 10mpg the entire time because I was about 2300-2400rpms the entire time. Dodge's like 2k. Same load on both trucks. That was the actual trip that I said I'm done with older diesels, cost of repair etc. for what I'm using it for. I'll rather have the Tundra, max that truck out every now and then, and have a really nice daily driver then drive a bigger truck, with more pricey operating costs.
    Now, if I had all the $ I'd be driving a Dodge 2500 power wagon with a 6.4, replace the suspension and be done. But..$15-18k Tundra vs $50k Dodge truck = I can do 8mpg for a longgggg time.
    I go back and forth. Some days I miss my old 7.3 in a bad way. But my F150 is damn comfortable and does just fine towing my travel trailer a few hundred pounds over GVWR. I don't missing pumping stanky diesel and mixing additive in the winter either.

  12. #112
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Sölden
    Posts
    415
    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    I go back and forth. Some days I miss my old 7.3 in a bad way. But my F150 is damn comfortable and does just fine towing my travel trailer a few hundred pounds over GVWR. I don't missing pumping stanky diesel and mixing additive in the winter either.
    Totally. That's exactly it. I was going to go newer diesel, like 2012-18. Rode in my buddies 2017 Dodge 2500 6.7. It literally rode the same as my 2004 Dodge with Thuren suspension components I put on it, which was terrible.
    That's when I had a heart to heart with myself. Tundra = makes sense for me 90% of the time, does not do well 10% of the time. Bigger truck = doesnt make sense 90% of the time, works well 10% of the time.

  13. #113
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Montrose, CO
    Posts
    3,681
    Quote Originally Posted by Tryingtostaywarm View Post
    Totally. That's exactly it. I was going to go newer diesel, like 2012-18. Rode in my buddies 2017 Dodge 2500 6.7. It literally rode the same as my 2004 Dodge with Thuren suspension components I put on it.
    That's when I had a heart to heart with myself. Tundra = makes sense for me 90% of the time, does not do well 10% of the time. Bigger truck = doesnt make sense 90% of the time, works well 10% of the time.
    Right before I signed for my truck, I told the dealer I wanted to go drive any F250 on the lot to make sure I was making the right call. It was night and day unloaded, which is also me the majority of the time.

  14. #114
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Sölden
    Posts
    415
    Quote Originally Posted by snowaddict91 View Post
    Right before I signed for my truck, I told the dealer I wanted to go drive any F250 on the lot to make sure I was making the right call. It was night and day unloaded, which is also me the majority of the time.
    We've seen the logical light. Again, if I had unlimited $ I would be in a newer 3/4/1 ton with some real cool aftermarket suspension. That's not reality for me.

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