Page 4 of 4 FirstFirst 1 2 3 4
Results 76 to 92 of 92
  1. #76
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Salida, CO
    Posts
    68
    Just re-read your first post, you mention how you feel about hydraulic, hehe!
    Sawatch is French for scratchy.

  2. #77
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    4,542
    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenBC View Post
    Check out my toe punch I had made earlier in this thread. I use it with any shaped punch and extender bits to get the appropriate length based on boot size.

    For in steps you can heat gun any shell with padding on top of the foot. We also use actual softballs with the sides cut off so they can fit inside a shell. They perfectly stretch the instep. Use with a shim for a bigger punch.
    We usually use a lacrosse ball or the crew likes to steal my half liter water bottle . . . foot in boot method also works well for big calves; pre-heat boot in oven, have custy stand on a sheet of 3/4" (not sure what they call that in CA) plywood with the heels elevated by a 2x4, add a shim between cuff and liner if desired, heat the cuff with heat gun while they stand there.

  3. #78
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Golden B.C.
    Posts
    434
    We call it 3/4”


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums

  4. #79
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    4,542
    Quote Originally Posted by skisurfmirth View Post
    We call it 3/4”


    Sent from my iPhone using TGR Forums
    You one of those Canucks who call a ski hat a "beanie?"

  5. #80
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Golden
    Posts
    460
    Quote Originally Posted by gregL View Post
    You one of those Canucks who call a ski hat a "beanie?"
    If he is, it's only because of the American in him. Proper Canucks call it a toque, eh.

    And we call it 3/4" unless we are doing commercial construction then we call it "google, what is 19mm in inches?"

  6. #81
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,493
    Does anybody have tips for reducing the forward lean on a Head Raptor 140rs slightly? I'm inclined to grind the black aluminum "flex stance tuning" plate that goes on the back of the cuff a touch so I can re-bolt the cuff in a slightly more upright position, but suggestions very welcome.

    I can take some photos if that would help.

  7. #82
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    21,572
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Does anybody have tips for reducing the forward lean on a Head Raptor 140rs slightly? I'm inclined to grind the black aluminum "flex stance tuning" plate that goes on the back of the cuff a touch so I can re-bolt the cuff in a slightly more upright position, but suggestions very welcome.

    I can take some photos if that would help.
    Do you
    1) want the cuff lower?
    2) flared the back part of the cuff? from how far down from the top?
    3) Have the whole upper cuff, from the hinge point, more up-right?


  8. #83
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,493
    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    Do you
    1) want the cuff lower?
    2) flared the back part of the cuff? from how far down from the top?
    3) Have the whole upper cuff, from the hinge point, more up-right?
    Aiming for #3. Fit is good, just want to tweak stance.

  9. #84
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
    Posts
    21,572
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Aiming for #3. Fit is good, just want to tweak stance.
    Your idea of the AL plate might work. Might need to also grind the bottom edge of the upper cuff, so it can set back into the new possition.

    Also raising up the toes of the boots/bindings (or dropping the heel) might help?


  10. #85
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,493
    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    Your idea of the AL plate might work. Might need to also grind the bottom edge of the upper cuff, so it can set back into the new possition.

    Also raising up the toes of the boots/bindings (or dropping the heel) might help?
    Binding shimming is an option too, but I'd rather dial in the boots better if I can. I'll try a little grinding and see how it goes.

  11. #86
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Mid-tomahawk
    Posts
    1,493
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Binding shimming is an option too, but I'd rather dial in the boots better if I can. I'll try a little grinding and see how it goes.
    That was pretty easy and seems like it worked. Didn't take a whole lot off, figure I'll test and iterate as needed.

    Thanks.

  12. #87
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    1,763
    Is my new Dynafit Radical Pro fubared?

    Initially I punched both big toes for length using a hydraulic press (the type that goes inside and presses off the heel of the boot) and attached a toe box shaped die (narrow volume) at the front with an attachment for just the toe. This was pretty good but I wanted a more aggressive effect so punched again but this time using the wider toe box shaped die with no attachment so pushed out the whole toe box.

    Visually both boots turned out great but when I skied the boots for the first time this weekend, one of the boots kept twisting out of my ATK bindings at the toe when trying to ski. The only way I was able to ski down was by locking out the toe. When I got home and had a closer look at the boot in the binding, the bad boot had a smaller gap at the heel piece so 'grew' by 1mm and also was now off centre. Turning the boot upside down and looking at it from the front I could see there is an ever so slight 'twist' at the toe.

    When applying heat for punching I applied 15 minutes of slow heat while keeping as much of the boot covered as possible to localize the heat. I was short on time so cooled the boots in cool water after letting them sit for 10 minutes.

    The one boot is perfect but is the other totally fucked? Anything I should try? From now on should I only be doing toe punches in a binding to prevent 'growth'?

  13. #88
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Golden
    Posts
    460
    I did that same thing to my atomic hawx with a press punch for my toes. All the preventative measures but the bottom of that boot is so thin it all twists. I tried heating up the underside of the boot and sticking it in a binding. Nothing has worked. No binding issues though.

  14. #89
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    西 雅 圖
    Posts
    4,542
    Quote Originally Posted by robnow View Post
    Is my new Dynafit Radical Pro fubared?

    Initially I punched both big toes for length using a hydraulic press (the type that goes inside and presses off the heel of the boot) and attached a toe box shaped die (narrow volume) at the front with an attachment for just the toe. This was pretty good but I wanted a more aggressive effect so punched again but this time using the wider toe box shaped die with no attachment so pushed out the whole toe box.

    Visually both boots turned out great but when I skied the boots for the first time this weekend, one of the boots kept twisting out of my ATK bindings at the toe when trying to ski. The only way I was able to ski down was by locking out the toe. When I got home and had a closer look at the boot in the binding, the bad boot had a smaller gap at the heel piece so 'grew' by 1mm and also was now off centre. Turning the boot upside down and looking at it from the front I could see there is an ever so slight 'twist' at the toe.

    When applying heat for punching I applied 15 minutes of slow heat while keeping as much of the boot covered as possible to localize the heat. I was short on time so cooled the boots in cool water after letting them sit for 10 minutes.

    The one boot is perfect but is the other totally fucked? Anything I should try? From now on should I only be doing toe punches in a binding to prevent 'growth'?
    Best bet is to heat only the area that needs to be punched (i.e. the toe, make sure you shield the toe lug from heat) and not the entire boot, and use some method that doesn't stress the entire sole (see earlier in this thread, several fittings are shown). It also helps to use a small ball instead of a wider fitting (less pressure) - if it isn't wide enough, move it around while the toe is still warm.

    You can also warp a boot by aggressively punching for forefoot width, especially with thin AT soles. Not sure if you can fix it or not, try putting it in a boot oven for 15 minutes or so.

  15. #90
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Calgary
    Posts
    1,763
    So far so good, threw the boot in the oven (110C) for 15 minutes, kept checking at 8, 10, 12, 14, seemed ok. Put it into the binding and already the heel pins are aligned and centred. Will be interesting to see if it shortened back at all.

  16. #91
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    SkiTalk.com
    Posts
    3,318
    Quote Originally Posted by HAB View Post
    Aiming for #3. Fit is good, just want to tweak stance.
    Gas pedal the boot. I had to do that for a few people, especially ones with larger calves.
    Click. Point. Chute.

  17. #92
    Join Date
    Jan 2022
    Posts
    1

    Unhappy Cantology online

    Sup fellas. I work as a bootfitter in Russia (our bootfitting "culture" is kinda suck mostly) and I am personaly totally unbalanced on my skis. Tired of years of compensation moves or hand made cants. So here is the question: is there any way to buy cantology shims online? I'm looking toward Fischer Curv GT as a next boot and it is compatible. Also maybe someone know a way to shim old dalbello lupo sp, I would like to keep it as a comfy summer park boot. Thanks mates

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •