The Bootfitter’s Thread

[natebob]

Just re-read your first post, you mention how you feel about hydraulic, hehe!

[gregL]

Check out my toe punch I had made earlier in this thread. I use it with any shaped punch and extender bits to get the appropriate length based on boot size.

For in steps you can heat gun any shell with padding on top of the foot. We also use actual softballs with the sides cut off so they can fit inside a shell. They perfectly stretch the instep. Use with a shim for a bigger punch.

We usually use a lacrosse ball or the crew likes to steal my half liter water bottle . . . foot in boot method also works well for big calves; pre-heat boot in oven, have custy stand on a sheet of 3/4" (not sure what they call that in CA) plywood with the heels elevated by a 2x4, add a shim between cuff and liner if desired, heat the cuff with heat gun while they stand there.

[skisurfmirth]

We call it 3/4”


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[gregL]

We call it 3/4”


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You one of those Canucks who call a ski hat a "beanie?"

[GoldenBC]

You one of those Canucks who call a ski hat a "beanie?"

If he is, it's only because of the American in him. Proper Canucks call it a toque, eh.

And we call it 3/4" unless we are doing commercial construction then we call it "google, what is 19mm in inches?"

[HAB]

Does anybody have tips for reducing the forward lean on a Head Raptor 140rs slightly? I'm inclined to grind the black aluminum "flex stance tuning" plate that goes on the back of the cuff a touch so I can re-bolt the cuff in a slightly more upright position, but suggestions very welcome.

I can take some photos if that would help.

[mntlion]

Does anybody have tips for reducing the forward lean on a Head Raptor 140rs slightly? I'm inclined to grind the black aluminum "flex stance tuning" plate that goes on the back of the cuff a touch so I can re-bolt the cuff in a slightly more upright position, but suggestions very welcome.

I can take some photos if that would help.

Do you
1) want the cuff lower?
2) flared the back part of the cuff? from how far down from the top?
3) Have the whole upper cuff, from the hinge point, more up-right?

[HAB]

Do you
1) want the cuff lower?
2) flared the back part of the cuff? from how far down from the top?
3) Have the whole upper cuff, from the hinge point, more up-right?

Aiming for #3. Fit is good, just want to tweak stance.

[mntlion]

Aiming for #3. Fit is good, just want to tweak stance.

Your idea of the AL plate might work. Might need to also grind the bottom edge of the upper cuff, so it can set back into the new possition.

Also raising up the toes of the boots/bindings (or dropping the heel) might help?

[HAB]

Your idea of the AL plate might work. Might need to also grind the bottom edge of the upper cuff, so it can set back into the new possition.

Also raising up the toes of the boots/bindings (or dropping the heel) might help?

Binding shimming is an option too, but I'd rather dial in the boots better if I can. I'll try a little grinding and see how it goes.

[HAB]

Binding shimming is an option too, but I'd rather dial in the boots better if I can. I'll try a little grinding and see how it goes.

That was pretty easy and seems like it worked. Didn't take a whole lot off, figure I'll test and iterate as needed.

Thanks.

[robnow]

Is my new Dynafit Radical Pro fubared?

Initially I punched both big toes for length using a hydraulic press (the type that goes inside and presses off the heel of the boot) and attached a toe box shaped die (narrow volume) at the front with an attachment for just the toe. This was pretty good but I wanted a more aggressive effect so punched again but this time using the wider toe box shaped die with no attachment so pushed out the whole toe box.

Visually both boots turned out great but when I skied the boots for the first time this weekend, one of the boots kept twisting out of my ATK bindings at the toe when trying to ski. The only way I was able to ski down was by locking out the toe. When I got home and had a closer look at the boot in the binding, the bad boot had a smaller gap at the heel piece so 'grew' by 1mm and also was now off centre. Turning the boot upside down and looking at it from the front I could see there is an ever so slight 'twist' at the toe.

When applying heat for punching I applied 15 minutes of slow heat while keeping as much of the boot covered as possible to localize the heat. I was short on time so cooled the boots in cool water after letting them sit for 10 minutes.

The one boot is perfect but is the other totally fucked? Anything I should try? From now on should I only be doing toe punches in a binding to prevent 'growth'?

[GoldenBC]

I did that same thing to my atomic hawx with a press punch for my toes. All the preventative measures but the bottom of that boot is so thin it all twists. I tried heating up the underside of the boot and sticking it in a binding. Nothing has worked. No binding issues though.

[gregL]

Is my new Dynafit Radical Pro fubared?

Initially I punched both big toes for length using a hydraulic press (the type that goes inside and presses off the heel of the boot) and attached a toe box shaped die (narrow volume) at the front with an attachment for just the toe. This was pretty good but I wanted a more aggressive effect so punched again but this time using the wider toe box shaped die with no attachment so pushed out the whole toe box.

Visually both boots turned out great but when I skied the boots for the first time this weekend, one of the boots kept twisting out of my ATK bindings at the toe when trying to ski. The only way I was able to ski down was by locking out the toe. When I got home and had a closer look at the boot in the binding, the bad boot had a smaller gap at the heel piece so 'grew' by 1mm and also was now off centre. Turning the boot upside down and looking at it from the front I could see there is an ever so slight 'twist' at the toe.

When applying heat for punching I applied 15 minutes of slow heat while keeping as much of the boot covered as possible to localize the heat. I was short on time so cooled the boots in cool water after letting them sit for 10 minutes.

The one boot is perfect but is the other totally fucked? Anything I should try? From now on should I only be doing toe punches in a binding to prevent 'growth'?

Best bet is to heat only the area that needs to be punched (i.e. the toe, make sure you shield the toe lug from heat) and not the entire boot, and use some method that doesn't stress the entire sole (see earlier in this thread, several fittings are shown). It also helps to use a small ball instead of a wider fitting (less pressure) - if it isn't wide enough, move it around while the toe is still warm.

You can also warp a boot by aggressively punching for forefoot width, especially with thin AT soles. Not sure if you can fix it or not, try putting it in a boot oven for 15 minutes or so.

[robnow]

So far so good, threw the boot in the oven (110C) for 15 minutes, kept checking at 8, 10, 12, 14, seemed ok. Put it into the binding and already the heel pins are aligned and centred. Will be interesting to see if it shortened back at all.

[Flexon Phil]

Aiming for #3. Fit is good, just want to tweak stance.

Gas pedal the boot. I had to do that for a few people, especially ones with larger calves.

[burimo]

Sup fellas. I work as a bootfitter in Russia (our bootfitting "culture" is kinda suck mostly) and I am personaly totally unbalanced on my skis. Tired of years of compensation moves or hand made cants. So here is the question: is there any way to buy cantology shims online? I'm looking toward Fischer Curv GT as a next boot and it is compatible. Also maybe someone know a way to shim old dalbello lupo sp, I would like to keep it as a comfy summer park boot. Thanks mates

[GoldenBC]

Does anyone have any experience with the SVST manual punch with the articulating arms? http://svst.com/Boots/Manual-Boot-Press/

We currently have a Kaiser punch and an tecnica punch and are looking for a 3rd one. The Kaiser is awesome. The tecnica kind of sucks and isn’t very durable.

The SVST punch looks decent but I’m curious how it holds up. Does it have long enough reach to do toe punches without the cuff hitting the counter/punch? Does the linkage generate a ton of force? Do the rings hold up or do they bend if you’re using them at an angle?

Thanks

[gregL]

Does anyone have any experience with the SVST manual punch with the articulating arms? http://svst.com/Boots/Manual-Boot-Press/

We currently have a Kaiser punch and an tecnica punch and are looking for a 3rd one. The Kaiser is awesome. The tecnica kind of sucks and isn’t very durable.

The SVST punch looks decent but I’m curious how it holds up. Does it have long enough reach to do toe punches without the cuff hitting the counter/punch? Does the linkage generate a ton of force? Do the rings hold up or do they bend if you’re using them at an angle?

Thanks

We have several of the older, pre-articulating arm SVST punches. Nothing is as burly as the Keyser (including the rings they supply with the punch) but they will hold up for years when used by skilled bootfitters (read: people who heat the plastic enough) and with periodic replacement of the brass bushings, etc. If you set it up right (about 1/4" from the edge of the bench) you can do toe punches fine. Cost is attractive; our price for a Keyser is currently $4,000 USD while the SVST is $1500. The other factor is availability - you can probably buy a new SVST or SkiKare (same thing in yellow) right now, Keyser requires a pre-order and they are way behind in production.

[GoldenBC]

Awesome. Thanks Greg. We were thinking about having another punch custom made but this price is very attractive. SVST will apparently have them available next week.

Where do you even find a Keyser (kaiser sp?)? I believe ours is actually a copy of one. Same design. Awesome tool.

[gregL]

You order them direct from Keyser Tools in Richmond, BC. PM me if you want the details.

[gregL]

SVST will apparently have them available next week.

If you get one, stay on top of the tightness at the two adjustable pivot points (6mm Allen key in the left side with either the black plastic knob or a nut, they loosen up with use). Also you will have to whack the "fixed" pins once in a while with a hammer to center them. Keep the 250 lb. dudes from applying too much force on "not ready to punch" plastic and they should be good. When the brass bushings wear out, ask SVST for some replacements - they are just hammered in with friction. The rings supplied with the punch are not nearly as strong as the Keyser cups, but work fine if you don't put too much pressure on them - same cautionary note about the 250 lb. dudes applies.

You never have to do any of this with a Keyser press, but $4000 is a lot of dollars. Not sure if they give a hometown discount for Canucks.

[natebob]

What kinds of service do you include with a new full price boot purchase? I throw in a free liner mold with 2 follow up visits. Do you guys include punches or grinds or...?

[mntlion]

What kinds of service do you include with a new full price boot purchase? I throw in a free liner mold with 2 follow up visits. Do you guys include punches or grinds or...?

include all of the above, until it works for you. 1-2 visit normal. 4+ happens a bit with someone in a tighter fit

[GoldenBC]

If you buy boots from us and have proper footbeds in them (from us or not) you get unlimited free labour for bootfitting. You have to pay for any materials added. If it comes down to it and we can’t make you happy, we exchange the boot.

I’ve talked to other shops that give a two hour fitting when you purchase the boot and two hours follow up fitting.