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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    The Bootfitters Thread

    I thought it would be cool to have a thread for fellow bootfitters to share some love with each other; pass along knowledge, ask questions, find tools, rant, and speculate on the future of the universe. This isn't a place to ask bootfitters questions, there are plenty of other threads.

    I'll start. Been bootfitting since '05. Started at Surefoot Whistler as a lowly tech working nights and am now at Selkirk at Kicking Horse Resort.

    A few weeks ago I got pissed off that our hydraulic presses always break and take too long to set up and that a traditional ball and cup on a punch just fucks up toe lugs so I designed a toe punch specific cup. Pretty stoked on how it's going and can crank out a toe punch in a minute without any collateral damage. It's able to punch all the way around the toe box and can either massage the punch or lock it in to have it set up depending on the plastic.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    BC
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    I'm a lonely at home boot fitter with a SVST press and a Foredom grinder, forced into self boot fitting as nobody around me gives a shit if you're not their friend.

    That piece is super sick! How are you attaching it into the lever press? cutout with plastic ring?

    I was also wondering if someone can offer me some advice on grinding? How do you know how much you can grind plug boots? I've been using a flashlight shining against the boot to gauge how much plastic is gone based on the intensity of the light.

  3. #3
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    Oct 2008
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    The Fish
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    Quote Originally Posted by mr_pretzel View Post
    How do you know how much you can grind plug boots? I've been using a flashlight shining against the boot to gauge how much plastic is gone based on the intensity of the light.
    Get a dead boot and grind some holes in it.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by Eluder View Post
    Get a dead boot and grind some holes in it.
    Already did that a bunch, just wondering it there’s any more science to it.

  5. #5
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    nice work! its great to see new tools being invented to solve real problems.


  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Fort Collins
    Posts
    407
    On more sketchy grinds, I could start to feel the bit through the boot more. Tends to be as far as I ever want to go with grinds, but its a valid gauge.

    Sent from my Redmi Note 8 Pro using Tapatalk

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    西 雅 圖
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenBC View Post
    A few weeks ago I got pissed off that our hydraulic presses always break and take too long to set up and that a traditional ball and cup on a punch just fucks up toe lugs so I designed a toe punch specific cup. Pretty stoked on how it's going and can crank out a toe punch in a minute without any collateral damage. It's able to punch all the way around the toe box and can either massage the punch or lock it in to have it set up depending on the plastic.
    I like it. Fanatyk in Whistler Village has some similar ones they've fabricated.
    I use a toe lug adapter that I make from either hard rubber or wood; it fits into the large SVST ring and can be moved side to side depending on the location of the punch. Works pretty well for medial 1st distal phalanges issues, too.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #8
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    Jun 2008
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    Nice one Greg. I wonder how many people have fabricated something like this. Have suppliers just not realized people have moved on from hydraulics?

    Pretzel, my toe punch cup just threads into the lever arm. It’s only used for toe punches.

    As for finding, if you can start to move the plastic by pushing on it that’s just on the thin side. Really, you just want to make it a bit thinner. Keep your finger on the backside of the grinder to make sure you don’t go too deep.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Salida, CO
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    60
    Great thread idea, subscribed. GoldenBC, would you consider this an appropriate thread to ask questions about stance? I would like some opinions on things like binding delta, boot ramp, forward lean... Searched a bit, didn't find anything.
    Sawatch is French for scratchy.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
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    Cackalacky
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    why my feets hurt?
    you don't want no smoke.

  11. #11
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    Aug 2011
    Location
    panhandle locdog
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    Quote Originally Posted by natebob View Post
    Great thread idea, subscribed. GoldenBC, would you consider this an appropriate thread to ask questions about stance? I would like some opinions on things like binding delta, boot ramp, forward lean... Searched a bit, didn't find anything.
    there's lots of other threads discussing that, you should search harder.

    I'm not a bootfitter but it's interesting, so please fitters keep the discussion going.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Fish
    Posts
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    I moved on from my position as buyer/fitter for a shop here at the end of last season. If anyone has a lead on a used press hit me up.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Salida, CO
    Posts
    60
    Should have said I searched and didn't find what I was looking for, but did find a few things. I'll keep searching.
    Sawatch is French for scratchy.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Salida, CO
    Posts
    60
    Do any bootfitters or shop folks have a tongue for a Maestrale 4 Buckle size 29 right boot? I can order a new one from Scarpa, but just looking for a used/junker to put on an old beat up boot. Thanks.
    Sawatch is French for scratchy.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Ottawa
    Posts
    484
    Let me preface this by noting that I am not a boot fitter;

    My wife got me a CARV thing for Christmas, and it goes between the boot board and the liner. Problem is that it takes up enough room that my comfy boots make my feet go numb and on my left foot, turn purple within 20 minutes. Is sanding a boot board down to make vertical room a thing?

    Boots are Speedmachine 130s, and local area is still under lockdown/stay-at-home orders.

    Recommendations/thoughts? Best way to DIY it?

    Although things are supposed to start reopening in the next few days, Im not sure if bootfitting will be as well.
    Quote Originally Posted by jlboyell View Post
    Climate change deniers should be in the same boat as the flat earthers, ridiculed for stupidity.

  16. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Banff
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    21,357
    Quote Originally Posted by johnnyg82 View Post
    Let me preface this by noting that I am not a boot fitter;

    My wife got me a CARV thing for Christmas, and it goes between the boot board and the liner. Problem is that it takes up enough room that my comfy boots make my feet go numb and on my left foot, turn purple within 20 minutes. Is sanding a boot board down to make vertical room a thing?

    Boots are Speedmachine 130’s, and local area is still under lockdown/stay-at-home orders.

    Recommendations/thoughts? Best way to DIY it?

    Although things are supposed to start reopening in the next few days, I’m not sure if bootfitting will be as well.
    grind down boot board ?

    thinner sock?

    thin out footbed in your boot (or remove?)


  17. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Ottawa
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    484
    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    grind down boot board ?

    thinner sock?

    thin out footbed in your boot (or remove?)
    Removed foot bed, lots of room now. Sometimes I dont think of all the easy ways.

    Thanks!!
    Quote Originally Posted by jlboyell View Post
    Climate change deniers should be in the same boat as the flat earthers, ridiculed for stupidity.

  18. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Golden
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    394
    Saw this being discussed in another thread but will post here to not hijack.

    Re: Cankles, athletic calves, overweight, no heels, burning quads...

    Back in the day we used to chuckle at George McConkey for 'Veritcalizing' boots, but he was on to something. A decent number of people give up on skiing because they have very large and low calf muscles. This causes them to upsize boots, get lots of heel lift, lots of calf pain, burning quads and tons of visits to a bootfitter who just adds heel wedges and flares their cuff and loosen the buckles. Shit don't work for the extreme cases though.

    The issue at hand is that boot designers choose a boot to have 'X' forward lean. They do this by locking in the rear of the boot at X angle and then have the front of the adjustable to accommodate different legs sizes. The issue is, it is the tibia at front of the leg, not the back of the leg that should be at X angle. When you cram a big calf in a boot the rear is at X angle and the front is now 10 degrees steeper. The fact that the boot can't be done up tightly makes it extremely soft and exacerbates the problem. Quads and calves burn like an SOB.

    Solution:

    Adjust the boot so that the front of the boot is at X angle by shaving down the bottom of the back of the upper cuff and bolting it in place at a more vertical position. With most boots, you need to remove a lot of material on the lower cuff, above the heel pocket. This is because the calf goes so low, the lower cuff will still push the leg forward. You will still find that the upper cuff and liner will need to be flared. Pads to hold the heel/ankle are invaluable and those Sidas heel retention elastics actually work like a charm if the person is flexible enough to put them on.

    I've found the best boots to do this with are ones with a walk mode, especially the discontinued Salomon QST. Put the boot on the person, put it in walk mode, have them stand up in a comfortable position with knees lightly bent and mark where the shell moves to. Then bolt the shell in this position.

  19. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    BC to CO
    Posts
    3,497
    Quote Originally Posted by Eluder View Post
    I moved on from my position as buyer/fitter for a shop here at the end of last season. If anyone has a lead on a used press hit me up.
    I know of a shop that has gone out of business, that has all the tools for sale, BUT last time I enquired they also were requiring you to buy their remaining inventory of their boots, liners and accessories.
    It's been well over a year, and I'm not sure if they are more willing to move on just the tools.
    I'm local (in CO) and could help with shipping logistics. PM me if you want the contact information and inventory list.

  20. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Golden B.C.
    Posts
    398
    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenBC View Post
    Saw this being discussed in another thread but will post here to not hijack.

    Re: Cankles, athletic calves, overweight, no heels, burning quads...

    Back in the day we used to chuckle at George McConkey for 'Veritcalizing' boots, but he was on to something. A decent number of people give up on skiing because they have very large and low calf muscles. This causes them to upsize boots, get lots of heel lift, lots of calf pain, burning quads and tons of visits to a bootfitter who just adds heel wedges and flares their cuff and loosen the buckles. Shit don't work for the extreme cases though.

    The issue at hand is that boot designers choose a boot to have 'X' forward lean. They do this by locking in the rear of the boot at X angle and then have the front of the adjustable to accommodate different legs sizes. The issue is, it is the tibia at front of the leg, not the back of the leg that should be at X angle. When you cram a big calf in a boot the rear is at X angle and the front is now 10 degrees steeper. The fact that the boot can't be done up tightly makes it extremely soft and exacerbates the problem. Quads and calves burn like an SOB.

    Solution:

    Adjust the boot so that the front of the boot is at X angle by shaving down the bottom of the back of the upper cuff and bolting it in place at a more vertical position. With most boots, you need to remove a lot of material on the lower cuff, above the heel pocket. This is because the calf goes so low, the lower cuff will still push the leg forward. You will still find that the upper cuff and liner will need to be flared. Pads to hold the heel/ankle are invaluable and those Sidas heel retention elastics actually work like a charm if the person is flexible enough to put them on.

    I've found the best boots to do this with are ones with a walk mode, especially the discontinued Salomon QST. Put the boot on the person, put it in walk mode, have them stand up in a comfortable position with knees lightly bent and mark where the shell moves to. Then bolt the shell in this position.
    Really good explaination/walk through. Did lots of these at snow covers in Vancouver in my younger days. Worked really well for those who needed it. I like the wrinkle with the walkmoded boots.

  21. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    The Fish
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dee Hubbs View Post
    I know of a shop that has gone out of business, that has all the tools for sale, BUT last time I enquired they also were requiring you to buy their remaining inventory of their boots, liners and accessories.
    It's been well over a year, and I'm not sure if they are more willing to move on just the tools.
    I'm local (in CO) and could help with shipping logistics. PM me if you want the contact information and inventory list.
    D.H. your inbox is full.
    a positive attitude will not solve all of your problems, but it may annoy enough people to make it worth the effort

    Formerly Rludes025

  22. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Golden
    Posts
    394
    Does anyone have a good resource on further learning about boot/binding delta, reasons for preference, physiological predictors, etc?

  23. #23
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Posts
    441

    Binding delta

    Quote Originally Posted by GoldenBC View Post
    Does anyone have a good resource on further learning about boot/binding delta, reasons for preference, physiological predictors, etc?
    Inside boot ramp angle/forward cuff lean is entirely dependent on ankle rom

    Ive spent many hours trying to research binding delta, as I am so sensitive to it.
    If I am more than a mm or two heel high my balance goes to spaz mode.

    What I have found is that short tib fib/long femors need positive(heel high )
    and long tib fib to short femur need toe high.
    Which make sense if you draw it out.

    But there is also a relationship between long/short lower extremity to torso length that I have not grocked out yet.

  24. #24
    Join Date
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    Banff
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  25. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Golden
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    Quote Originally Posted by mntlion View Post
    I requested to join a few months ago when you sent me it before. Ill try again. Thanks.

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