Cheap Blizzard ZeroG 108, touring boots, frame bindings, misc.

[HellgateBasement]

Will add pictures at some point this weekend. Gear is all located in Denver until 1/29, then Steamboat.

First some zero G 108s. 178 cm. These are a catch and release ... or catch, drill, and release anyway. They've been drilled 1.75 times - quiverkilled for Vipecs @ 306mm (fronts are not reusable) and once for a mystery tech binding at a similar size or slightly larger. Prefer to meet up on the Denver or Steamboat so you can confirm there's no hole conflict. $100 or $200 with BD skins in like-new condition.

Dynafit Mercury Boots - 26.5 (298bsl I think) in good used condition. $150 OBO

Salomon Guardian 16 frame binding- $100 OBO

Fritschi Freeride Pro frame binding - $75 OBO

Nordica Hell & Backs - These are 185cm with demo binders. Planned to replace demos with aforementioned Freeride Pros or Guardians to have a dirtbag loaner touring rig, but realized I don't like my friends even that much. $100 flat. $100+beer with demos.

Rossignol 185 race bindings. skinny brakes. $150 OBO

Marmot Gore-Tex Pro Shell - M - a little older. Black with red zippers, slightly shorter cut than I like. $100 OBO

[singlecross]

Dibs on Fritschi Freeride Pro depending on photos and condition.

[HellgateBasement]

Cool - they're in my storage unit but I'll get over there tomorrow to take some photos.

[JDubyu]

Interested in the 108s, PM’d.

[I've seen black diamonds!]

What do you mean by "fronts are not reusable?"

[1000-oaks]

^ If the threads are jacked, you might be able to clean them up with a quality M5 plug tap followed by a bottoming tap, or just roll the dice and go straight to the bottoming tap.

[HellgateBasement]

The alignment of one of the front inserts on one ski is juuust off so I could only get a turn or maybe a turn and a half on the screw. Maybe you could jerry rig something to work but I never felt comfortable skiing anything of consequence that way - just one or two very mellow uphill resort laps.


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[1000-oaks]

Put a hex nut on a long M5 screw, thread into insert, tighten nut against insert (use a 5mm ID piece of thin-wall tubing as a spacer if insert is below topsheet), apply heat to screw until the epoxy just starts to sizzle, and back out insert. Carefully redrill larger at correct location (a machine shop could do it with an end mill that won't drift sideways), tap, and install a recovery insert.

[JDubyu]

Pending shipping and condition, I’ll take on the challenge.